{"id":30260,"date":"2025-07-20T00:01:50","date_gmt":"2025-07-20T07:01:50","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/exhaustnotes.us\/blog\/?p=30260"},"modified":"2025-07-11T07:27:21","modified_gmt":"2025-07-11T14:27:21","slug":"where-were-you-in-62-part-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/exhaustnotes.us\/blog\/index.php\/2025\/07\/20\/where-were-you-in-62-part-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Where Were You In ‘ 62: Part 2"},"content":{"rendered":"
By Joe Gresh<\/h6>\n

It’s monsoon season here in New Mexico and the hard rain mixed with hail has me wasting time indoors…I mean tinkering with the Dream 305.<\/p>\n

The most annoying problem on the black Dream was the clutch lever wouldn’t move. The cable was like a banjo string, the lever wouldn’t move and the kickstart spun freely. I guess the Dream doesn’t have primary gear start.<\/p>\n

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The clutch released after I removed the right cover. Several sessions of Gunk got it looking a bit cleaner.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I took off the right-side engine cover and that released the clutch. Once the cable was loose I slipped the cover back on and the kicker turned over the engine with a slipping gear sound.<\/p>\n

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The kickstart splines look ok but the start lever slips. I’m thinking a keyway might solve the problem.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Turns out the kick lever slides onto the kickstart shaft and is kept from turning by shallow splines in the shaft and kick lever.\u00a0 My Dream must have been kicked a lot. I’m not sure how to fix the problem, maybe grind a keyway?<\/p>\n

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Sprockets don’t wear out this much in 4000 miles. I suspect the white Dream is the low mileage bike. This black Dream has been around the block.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The sprocket area was a greasy mess so I cleaned it up and removed the worn out countershaft sprocket. The kickstarter and the sprockets have me thinking the 4000 miles on the odometer isn’t accurate. The white Dream looks more like the low-mileage bike.<\/p>\n

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The wiring was a snarl of mismatched colors. When things get this bad it’s time to start over.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Moving on, the wiring was a mess. The main harness looks like it was new in the past 10 years. Everything else was a tangle so I removed all the wiring to get a clear view of the situation. I’ll start fresh if the engine proves usable.<\/p>\n

I’m going to check the valve clearances but the round rocker covers are 23mm. I started easing into the cover with a large adjustable wrench but it felt like the aluminum might round off. 23mm is a socket I don’t have. I’ve ordered a socket from Amazon and when it shows up I’ll tackle the valves.<\/p>\n

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The carb bits looked good. The Dream is a simple machine to work on and tune.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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63 years old and doesn’t look a day over 40. The single small venturi and two, 150cc pistons promise many miles per gallon.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I also removed the carb for cleaning. At first glance it seemed not too bad and the second glance confirms it. Everything was in good shape inside so I reused all the bits.<\/p>\n

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The Tytronic system is easy to connect once you have a diagram. I don’t like the single Allen head set-screw holding on the magnetic trigger.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The Dream came with a Tytronic electronic ignition system. Whoever wired it connected the ground side of the coil in series with the condenser then to the ignition module. I don’t see how that can work. Condensers are used with points to help with arcing when the points break so why would an electronic ignition use one?<\/p>\n

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Thank you to the internet hero who took the time to draw a diagram. Something Tytronic should have done instead of their lame, verbal-to-text description.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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The simplified coil\/ ignition wiring. Blue and red go to Tytronic module. Battery positive to red, battery negative to frame.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Clear information on the Tytronic set up wiring was hard to find. The factory instructions online used wire colors, most of the colors didn’t match what I have. I like a wiring diagram but all I found was “connect the yellow to the blue” type of stuff. Luckily some brave soul posted a diagram of his set up. I rigged the Tytronic as the line drawing showed. Next I used a test light across the coil connections to set the timing. It’s really simple. I hope the Tytronic actually works.<\/p>\n

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Oh, how I hate tank liner. Anyone using this crap is not professional.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I’m kind of all over the map on the Dream but as issues are resolved you’ll see a more organized approach. The gas tank has that horrible tank-liner crap inside. It’s delaminating so I pulled some big pieces out. Now only 90% of the liner needs to be removed. There are very few occasions when tank liner is required. Don’t do it.<\/p>\n

The near-term goal is to see if the engine is good. After that I don’t know where this project is going. I’m not spending any money on the bike or making a decision until I hear the engine run.<\/p>\n

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