Zooming Through New Zealand: Part 2

By Mike Huber

Kim from South Pacific Motorcycles had just picked me up at my hostel in downtown Christchurch, New Zealand and we were off to meet my new steed for the week.  It was a BMW GS750 named “Massie.”  Even with my lack of planning, somehow the Universe decided I needed to get back on a motorcycle and I was fortunate enough to snag the last one available for the dates I was in town.  The stars couldn’t have aligned any better.

Kim and I exchanged ideas on routes and agreed the one I had lazily researched would be a great one, but it might result in some long riding days. I would have to forego some hikes and tourist attractions that were on my list.  It was a loop that would take me over three unique mountain passes, and allow me to see two glaciers and cruise along ocean roads.  It would be a full riding trip with not much time for hikes and other tourist stops.  This was fine with me as I was itching to ride again.  Also, I had enough time remaining in country that if anything appealed to me, I could always return via bus or rental car.

The weather was a perfect 70 degrees F and I was ready to hit the switchbacks as I raced towards Arthur’s Pass National Park.  The roads were pretty solid going through this area.  It was just exhilarating to be riding again (and in another country at that).   I was so caught up in the moment that I forgot to top off on fuel prior to heading into the mountains.

Upon hitting the first town after completing Arthur’s Pass, Massie’s fuel level read a mere 18km remaining (a rookie mistake by me). Once the bike was topped off I sat under the gas station’s awning to figure out where I would be staying that evening.  The rental company recommended staying in Holiday Parks.  These were similar to the KOAs that we have in the United States.

I cannot stand KOAs.  Unless I was in a pinch that would not be my plan for the evening.  Camping in New Zealand is different from the United States in that many areas are called “freedom camping,” but in order to stay there you had to have a self-contained vehicle sticker.  To obtain the sticker the vehicle must undergo a rigorous inspection process to ensure the vehicle has a toilet in it.  So Freedom Camping was obviously out of the question.

Hunting down campsites wasn’t anything new for me.  It didn’t take me long to remember that on the North Island I had camped in DOC (Department of Conservation) campsites.  These campsites could be quite primitive but they have toilets, which meant I didn’t need a sticker.  I found them in really beautiful areas and at a cost of just $15 NZD ($10 USD) they met all my requirements for a peaceful night of camping.

The campsite was perfect.  It was next to a beautiful lake with plenty of weka birds that would walk right up to you and hang out for a bit. It had been a short day but it was the perfect length to get used to the bike, chat with a few other riders, and get back into camping off a motorcycle.  I was back in my natural environment and decided to call it an early night.  I knew the next day I would have to put some serious mileage behind me if I was to complete this loop.

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Read the Mike Huber New Zealand posts here:

• • Packing for New Zealand
  • Auckland
  • Tongariro Crossing
  • New Zealand Part 1
  • New Zealand Part 2
  • New Zealand Part 3
  • New Zealand Part 4
  • New Zealand Part 5

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