Charlie Don’t Wheelie – A Vietnam Motorcycle Adventure: Part 6

By Mike Huber

Exposure is one of the greatest thrills when traveling by motorcycle.  You feel every drop of rain and every cold or warm front you move through, experiencing each second by second.  There is no better way to experience the present, except for maybe exiting an aircraft in flight.  Being a motorcyclist and embracing that exposure allows the most beautiful moments.  During these moments I sometimes close my eyes for an instant to ensure my mind has a vivid snapshot that can be stored deep within and recalled for the rest of my life. With this beauty at times there comes a price, though, and at times that price can be death.

We were almost wrapping up our journey, having decided not to ride to the Vietnamese North Pole due to time constraints caused by our meandering travels.  Instead, I chose local mountain roads I found while planning our trip.  This made for relaxed riding and and easy return to our Home Stay in Mai Chau. The roads were incredible, some just dirt half covered by avalanches that barely allowed scooting the little 150cc motorcycles through. Every so often we would enter a village where pigs and water buffalo blocked the roads as children came out to honk the horn prominently taped to my handlebars.

After returning to the main road, just a few mountain passes away from Mai Chau, we decided to break for lunch.  There were older locals drinking what looked like a Vietnamese vodka.  Being ever curious about local drinks I attempted to order a bottle (or two) to go.  This took more than a few minutes.  Vietnam has so many dialects that many revert to English as the communication platform, but not here.  It took about five minutes and included several charades imitating the drunken locals we had just seen to obtain the right beverage.  No question about it: My performance would be the talk of that local watering hole for some time.

As I loaded the vodka bottles carefully into the plastic side panniers, we synced up the headsets and fired up the motos.  The narrow two-lane highway was stunning.  There were beautiful mountain views and sheer cliffs to our right where we could overlook the vistas and still see lingering fog far below us in a mystical valley.  Traffic was light that day, but we were alert for Terminators (oncoming trucks barreling around blind corners) and we were still cautious.

Suddenly, a female with a pink Hello Kitty plastic helmet zinged by me on her scooter. I waved to her as we do to all riders and glanced again to look at the mountain views.  I took a deep breath as I knew this would be one of those snapshot moments I wanted to remember forever. I didn’t realize how right I was.  In the very next moment, a Terminator was barreling directly at me in my lane, and I had no escape with the cliff on my right.  Before I could react to anything I heard plastic crunching and witnessed a body fly into the air 50 meters in front of me.  The entire world stopped for a moment as the crescendo of a full orchestra built and screamed in my head.  Then it suddenly stopped and the silence became the quiet sound of a gentle wind.

“Rider down!!” I screamed into the headset to Bobbie.  I parked the bike and ran over.  The female rider was still breathing, but there was nothing that could be done.  With traffic stopped I knew that on these mountain roads this scene would just get worse.  I attempted to tell the driver to call 911 knowing that most of these countries don’t have emergency services, but also knowing he wouldn’t need to read my charades to know what action to take. I flipped my moto around and drove up a quarter mile to meet Bobbie, and  I explained that I would pull road guard detail and for her to go to the accident scene.

Road guard duty was not an easy task on that foggy mountain highway in Vietnam. I remembered I had downloaded the Google Translator after being pulled over and quickly looked up “Stop bad accident ahead,” but even with using Google Translator the trucks continued to ignore me to the point they were jeopardizing Bobbie and others at the scene.  They continued to speed toward the horrific situation ahead.  Some vehicles were even going off the road to the left to avoid the accident or the cliffs after ignoring my warnings.

Still wearing my helmet and headset I shouted several times to Bobbie that there was an incoming vehicle but to no avail.  She was doing what she could to assist the downed female rider, and she didn’t have her helmet on. With no other option I physically walked into the middle of the road using myself as a barrier to force each vehicle to stop (I hoped).  I wanted them to realize the accident they were about to encounter. This action ultimately worked and the threat of new vehicles incoming to the accident site stopped.

Sometime between 45 minutes and a lifetime later authorities arrived on the scene, but only in the form of a traffic officer on the back of a civilian moped.  At this juncture it was time for us to depart.  There was nothing else we could do, the female rider had died, and it was time for us to leave. We slowly continued our ride down the pass and neither of us spoke for the remainder of the ride other than my continued warnings on the lowering mountain switchbacks into the fog of Mai Chau Valley. After 45 minutes of riding an ambulance passed us heading to the accident.  Still not saying a word, we knew there was no rush for the ambulance at this point.

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If you missed earlier installments of the Vietnam ride, here they are:

Charlie Don’t Wheelie – A Vietnam Motorcycle Adventure: Part 1 
Charlie Don’t Wheelie – A Vietnam Motorcycle Adventure: Part 2
Charlie Don’t Wheelie – A Vietnam Motorcycle Adventure: Part 3 
Charlie Don’t Wheelie – A Vietnam Motorcycle Adventure: Part 4 
Charlie Don’t Wheelie – A Vietnam Motorcycle Adventure: Part 5