India 2025: Alawar to Jaipur, Step Wells, and Forts  

By Mike Huber

India: Part V

As I woke up in my dark hotel room it took me a few moments to realize where I was.  What took longer was figuring out how to turn on the lights via the Rubik’s cube, but mashing all the light switches on the main panel helped me regain my focus and vision in this now dimly lit room.  The bigger issue was finding the correct switch for the hot water.  So after a short and cold shower (I didn’t find the switch) it was time to meet everyone downstairs and get our plan for the day together over some much needed coffee.

Once downstairs I looked at each of my friends, then myself in the mirror.  It wasn’t difficult to tell who consumed the 8% Kingfisher beers the previous evening.  I also learned that one of them went back to the store for another beer after I went to sleep but the store was closed.  That didn’t stop my highly motivated friend from discovering that there was a guy next to the store selling Kingfishers at a mildly elevated price from a ditch next to the store.

With a few coffees in us we loaded the motorcycles and we were ready for another day of adventure.  Today would be our first full day of riding from Alawar to Jaipur, which was only around 160km.  There would be plenty of sights to see along the way as we traveled through some pretty remote backroads and Google Maps even had us go through a field trail for a few kilometers.  We took turns leading although my cell service was still unreliable, so we would only have me lead when we were on one road for a solid length of time.

After an hour or so we decided to take a break in a small village and get a few bananas and some water.  It only took a couple minutes before most the village came out to meet us all.  Even a school bus stopped and let the kids off to check out the bikes and talk with us.  It reminded me of my first experience in India 20 years prior.  This would become a familiar sight for us with crowds coming up to us to chat and take selfies.  They all were the friendliest people.  We enjoyed these stops and opportunities to engage with the locals in these little villages that were so far off the maps.

Our next stop was to check out a step well.  One of the guys had this thing for step wells, and by the end of the trip I hoped I would never see another step well again.  I think he had to have like a Global map for them.  Step wells are really just a deep brick hole in the ground with several steps from all angles going down into the hole to fetch water with buckets and bring it back up.  Some of them went over 60 feet down.

Once we arrived in Jaipur it was early afternoon, and the traffic was really starting to become congested.  This made it a challenge for me to stay within line of sight of the guys (again). There is a huge fort in Jaipur called Nahargarh Fort.  It was the first of many forts we would be visiting.  The fort was stunning to walk around and the views from that high ground were spectacular. We could view the entire city from this fort.

As we wrapped up the tour of the fort and returned to lower ground the traffic had become beyond insane.  The streets were narrow and filled with tuk tuks, motorcycles, cows, cars and just overall chaos. It seemed every inch that was gained to stay in a tight group was a fight.  The others driving wasn’t so much as aggressive as it was just cramped and tight.  My bike got scuffed up by a bus at one turn, but I had to keep on riding to keep up with the others.

By the time we reached our hotel we all were more than ready for a Kingfisher and we each hoped they were the 8% ones. We survived another day motorcycling through this fabulous, but intense country and were eagerly looking forward to what the following day would bring.


India Part I

India Part II

India Part III

India Part IV


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