Category: Royal Enfield

San Quintin!

My Bullet, loaded this morning at the hotel in Tecate. There’s a motorcycle under there somewhere.

We had a glorious ride today, from Tecate along the Ruta del Vino to Ensenada, and from there down the Transpeninsular Highway to San Quintin, which is where we are spending the night.  The weather has been perfect.  The Bullet, no so much so earlier, but I think we’ve got it wired now.  More on that in a bit.

Joe and I swapped bikes today, so I was on the Bullet and he was on the 650 Interceptor.   He’s in love with that 650, and it’s easy to see why.  The 650 is a home run for Enfield, I think.   Like me, Gresh is wanting to buy one, too.  But I’m finding I really love the Bullet as well.   Yeah, it was missing a bit, but like I said, I think we found and fixed the problem.   You know, it’s not an adventure until something goes wrong, and then a big part of the fun is figuring out what to do about it.  I’ll get to that shortly.

The photo ops along the Ruta del Vino were awesome, and we took advantage of them…

The Royal Enfield 500cc Bullet on Mexico Highway 3.
Uncle Joe hogging the Interceptor on the Ruta del Vino.
Dos Amigos reflected in an Enfield engine case.

Another cool thing….with all the rain we’ve had this winter, I’ve never seen Baja so green.  As we rode through the old wine country south of Ensenada, the green mountainsides were blanketed with bright orange wildflowers.  It really was quite a sight.  I didn’t get any photos of that, but I will on the return leg of this trip.

So, about that Bullet missing deal.  The bike only did it when decelerating and then accelerating, and it felt to me that it might be a clogged injector.  It doesn’t take much to mess with a fuel injector.   Gerry Edwards, my good buddy at Brown BMW, used to work on my RX3 and he’d always dose it with Lucas injector cleaner.  Gerry thinks the stuff is great, so Gresh and I found a Mexican AutoZone store in Ensenada and I bought some.   We put a little bit in and it didn’t really make a difference (if anything, it felt like the Bullet was missing more).   As we continued to ride south, I thought about what it could be and concluded it might be related to a spark plug.   We stopped at a Pemex station and pulled the plug.  What happened next was interesting.  The plug body looked like it had been arcing, but even more interesting was the way the sparkplug cap literally fell off the lead to it.  When we looked inside the cap, the screw that turns its way into the lead was covered with green corrosion.   Joe got a wire brush and cleaned the connector well, we put it back on, and the bike is running way better.   We’ll know for sure tomorrow when we pile on the miles to Guerrero Negro, but I think we’ve got it.  I felt a noticeable improvement as soon as we put it back together.

Pulling the Bullet plug. The Bullet actually has a pretty nice tool kit.
The spark plug cap.  The little green thing is the screw that screws into the spark plug wire.  It had corroded.   We’re pretty sure this is what was causing the missing, and we’re pretty sure we’ve got it fixed.

You know, you’d think that I’d not like a bike that’s missing, but I am loving that Bullet.  I love the vintageness (if that’s a word) of it, and I’m enjoying racking up the miles on a big single.  It’s cool.  It’s kind of a Lawrence of Arabia feeling, floating along at a steady 65 mph and listening to (and feeling) that big thumper thumping away.  I can’t really describe it, but I’ll think about the right words some more and give it another go in tomorrow’s blog.  I like it.  A lot.

I’m happy to report that the Old Mill Hotel in San Quintin is going strong, and they’ve opened a new restaurant (the Eucalipto).  We had a couple of beers after the bikes were put away (Lucia took good care of us), and then it was on to a fabulous dinner (Gresh bought!).

Lucy, the lovely young lady who brought us beer and dinner tonight. Life is good.
You have to wonder:  What is she thinking?
Seared tuna, as served by the Eucalipto. Like I said, life is good!
Uncle Joe Gresh, wiring analyst extraordinaire!
The 650 Interceptor, covered for its Baja jaunt by our favorite Mexico insurers, BajaBound!

Tomorrow, we’re headed through the Valle de los Cirios, and then Guerrero Negro.   Stay tuned, folks.   Good things are happening.

Tecate!

We had an easy run down the 15 freeway today, then it was the 805, then California’s magnificent SR 94 to a quick turn on the 188, and wow, Mexico!

Rolling up to the Mexican border in Tecate on a Royal Enfield 650. Wow!
…and, we’re there!

Joe and I processed through Mexican Immigration (we were the only ones there), and then it was a quick right to that fabulous restaurant I told you about a couple of weeks ago…the Malinalli Sabores Autóctonos.  It was an early dinner for us (we hadn’t had lunch) and it was fabulous.  We both ordered flautas and Joe grabbed a photo of my good friend Alicia with me…

Joe G, astounded by my flautas. We each had the same thing. The total bill was about $12. Incredible. I couldn’t finish mine.
Alicia, the proprietor. We’re having breakfast there tomorrow before we continue our trip south.

After that, it was a quick putt around town and we switched bikes.   I rode the 650 INT today and Joe was on the 500 Bullet.  Joe said he thought the Bullet was running rough.  I hadn’t picked up on that when I rode it yesterday, so I wanted to see if it felt funky to me.   I didn’t have any issues with the bike, but I wasn’t riding it at high speed all day like Joe was.  I’ll get my chance tomorrow for some extended high speed miles as we continue to roll south.   Sometimes these old big single cylinder bikes are easy to stall (I stalled it once or twice in town), especially thumping around in traffic when you’re trying to see the stop signs.    I think it’s fine.   There’s no question that the 650 is a much more refined bike than the Bullet, but I’m a happy camper with either one.

We stopped near a photo of the Tecate cerveza brewery and hung out downtown for a bit.  It’s cold here, but not nearly as cold as it was a few weeks ago when I did the Janus Baja run.

Tecate, Mexico. On Royal Enfields. Good times.
Near the Tecate town square. I wasn’t sure we could park there, so I asked a Mexican police officer and he told me we were good.
Uncle Joe, delighted to grab some seat time on the 650.

As walked around town, I saw a hot dog delivery dude (hey, I can’t make this up) on an Italika 150 and we had a good conversation.  He didn’t speak English, but Joe G speaks a little Spanish.  Joe’s Spanish wasn’t cutting the mustard, though (pardon the Oscar Meyer analogy), because our new friend called his girlfriend (who speaks English) and we had an interesting four-way conversation.   It was fun.

Riding, the universal language.

I was impressed as hell with the 650, but truth be told, I was even more impressed with the Bullet’s performance.  Joe took the lead on the 15 because he knew the roads to the 94.   That little Bullet is fast…he was cruising at 70 pretty consistently all the way down and there were a few times when he was touching an indicated 80.   And the 650…wow!  It’s smooth, fast, comfortable, and it handles very well.   I’ll tell you more about the performance of both bikes as the trip progresses.  I’ll be on the Bullet tomorrow and Joe’s riding the 650.   More to follow, folks.

Stay tuned, and sign up for our email updates!

Snapshot!

So far I’m not meshing well with the 500cc Royal Enfield Bullet. I keep stalling the thing at stops and unless its pulling under load it hits and misses like a two stroke. Other times it runs flawlessly. Berk has ridden the thing and says it’s fine and that I don’t know how to ride a heavy flywheel, old fashioned motorcycle. Being the senior member of the Royal Enfield tour team he should know. Although, in my defense he stalled it twice. Berk is going to ride the 500cc single all day tomorrow and we will see if it’s me or the motorcycle.

The Bullet runs great on the highway, though, loping along at an easy 70 miles per hour. There is a bit of vibration but it seems like the faster you go the smoother it gets. I wound it up to 80-85 and it was remarkably smooth for an engine designed back when fuel was sold in one gallon tin cans at hardware stores.

Actually, that’s not true. This 500cc single is quite a bit different from the old 1950s Enfields. It’s unit construction for one. (Transmission and engine all in one case.)  It’s fuel injected and starts at the push of a button. Still, the Bullet wouldn’t raise an eyebrow if it was sent back in time to the Eisenhower era.

The Bullet gets astronomical gas mileage. Our freeway run from Los Angeles to San Diego netted 75 miles per gallon and I wasn’t sparing the throttle. On long uphill grades I’d whack her open in 5th gear and the Bullet would slowly gain speed, passing semi trucks like they were semi trucks.

I’ve only ridden the new 650cc twin around Tecate but what a sweet machine. It revs in a peppy, mouth-full-of-pop-rocks sort of way, the transmission is slick as a Yamaha’s and the steering is light. It lifts off the side stand easily and comes with a center stand. Mechanically, this motorcycle works.

I love the thing. I haven’t stared at it too long but I don’t see any glaring faults in the fit or finish. It fires up so fast and runs so smooth. The seat is long and seems comfortable, it’s almost like a Brat Bike seat except good-looking. The cropped front and rear fenders are adorable yet tough. How is that possible? Clutch pull is light and the action is perfect. Foot pegs are slightly back, the bars place you in a slight forward lean. The Royal Enfield 650 is a shiny orange piece of Moto-confection. If I wasn’t such a cheapskate I’d run out and buy one of the things.

Whoa…what am I saying? Buy a new motorcycle? I’m getting way over my head with this 650, let’s burn a few thousand miles into the odometer and see if I’m still madly in love with the Royal Enfield twin.

We’re off 2

We’re about to head off to Baja and if you would have asked me what new motorcycle I’d most like to ride I’da told you the new Royal Enfield 650cc twin.

A 650 twin is the perfect size motorcycle for any type riding you care to do. You can tour, scramble or bop around town like you own the joint.

Royal Enfield has nailed the styling on their (Interceptor?) and styling is 90% of a motor cycle for me. The other 52% is performance and we will see about that.

Berk has pulled rank and gets the first stint in the 650 relegating me to the 500cc Bullet single. Hey, that’s not a problem since I like singles more than twins.

Now, where can I strap that extra gas can in the Bullet?

We’re Off!

Joe Gresh arrived here at ExNotes Central late last night (after driving 850 miles in a single day), and it was good to see old Arjiu again (that’s Joe’s Chinese name, I’m Dajiu, and you can read all about how we picked up those names in Riding China).

We’re going to be on the road as you read this, and you can follow our adventure right here on the ExNotes blog.  If you missed the first few preparatory Enfield posts, here they are:

The Bullet hits home!
18 again!
BajaBound on Royal Enfield!

Stay tuned, and if you haven’t done so already, please sign up for our email blog notifications.  You might win one of our moto books (and hey, we have two more in the works right now), you’ll never miss one of our dynamite posts, and we’ll never give your email to anyone else.

The Bullet hits home!

Yours truly in my R Heroes workshirt with the Baja Bullet!

Things are coming together.  My good buddy Victor delivered the 500cc Royal Enfield Bullet this afternoon (hereafter to be referred to as the Baja Bullet), and it’s yet another wow-this-is-an-incredible motorcycle.   Jet black, pinstriped, aluminum engine, electric start, fuel injection, and a looooong-stroke 500 single.   That combination offers a riding experience that is uniquely satisfying, and it does so in an age when most motorcycles feel and run like a Cuisinart (not that there’s anything wrong with Cuisinarts, but you get the idea).  Nope, this is a motorcycle.  You know it as soon as you see it, but just in case you don’t pick up on the magic, you’ll know it for sure when the hammer drops and the Bullet comes alive .  You can literally feel every piston stroke going down the road, and that’s a good thing.  It’s a machine, a real motorcycle, and it feels like one.

Topping off at the local gasolina store…
Imagine that…a motorcycle with a motor you can see!
This is really, really cool…a beautiful motorcycle bound for Baja.  Jet black paint, silver pinstripes, polished aluminum.  What a life!

Like I said, things are coming together.   I’ve got my BajaBound insurance (wow, those guys make it easy).  Gresh texted me a couple of hours ago as he blew past Quartzite, which means he’ll probably be here in another 2 or 3 hours.  I was worried about who would ride which bike, but truth be told, I’m going to be a happy camper on either of these magnificent motorcycles.  Joe and I will be trading off bikes regularly, and you’ll get both our impressions.   Mine are overwhelmingly positive so far.

I’m 18 again.  I’m a little heavier and I have a lot less hair than I did when I was 18, but trust me on this…I’m 18 today.  I feel very British, which is odd, considering that the bikes are made in India, we’re in America, and we’re going to be riding in Mexico.   Globalization, I guess.  I sure am glad the Royal Enfield folks in India kept the Royal Enfield marque alive, not only in name and logo, but with that awesome Britbike feel.

More to come, folks.   Much more.  And hey, sign up for our email updates.  You just might win one of our moto adventure books. In the meantime, if you want to get a jump start on what it’s like riding in Baja, check out our Baja page!

18 again!

Gresh left New Mexico headed for Los Angeles early this morning. What’s that white stuff?

Imagine you’re an old fart like Gresh and suddenly you could be again 18 years old again.  That’s kind of what happened to me just a short while ago.  Now, old Joe Gresh, he’s inbound from the Sacramento Mountains (don’t let the name fool you) in New Mexico, the Tinfiny Ranch, headed here.   The guy wanted to make the drive in one day in order to be staged for our run into Baja tomorrow.  Hey, that’s okay.  It’s going to be warmer where we’re going.

Anyway, back to that 18-years-old-thing again.   That’s what I want to be.  18 years old.  And while I’m dreaming, throw in a new 1966 650cc, made-in-England, Triumph Bonneville, but let’s add electric start, six speeds, disc brakes, and a flawless finish.  That’s my dream.

Only it’s not a dream. That’s where I am right now.

The bike is a new Royal Enfield Interceptor.  It’s a 650.  The styling is perfect, right down to the big tach and speedo that almost say “Smiths” (if I have to explain that, you wouldn’t understand).  It’s made in India instead of England (hey, the current Triumph Bonnevilles are made in Thailand).   My take?  This new motorcycle has out-Triumphed Triumph in being more faithful to the original layout, displacement, and feel of the ’66 Bonneville I’ve lusted after for years.   But with lots more refinement.

A brand new Royal Enfield 650 Interceptor in my driveway. It’s my ride for the next 10 days or so.
For my good buddy Orlando: See, it’s orange…the fastest color!
You can almost see where it says Smiths.  This, folks, is what motorcycle instruments should look like!

Want to read another strong statement?  On my 25-mile ride home from So Cal Moto in Brea, where I picked up the Royal Enfield, I decided I’m going to buy one.   Oh, I’ll find some nits to pick over the next 2000 BajaBound miles and I’ll share them with you here, but this bike answers the mail.   And the price?  Well, a new Triumph Bonneville cost $1320 in 1966.  I know, because my Dad bought one.  A new Royal Enfield is $5799, I think.  If you take that 1966 $1320 figure and adjust it for inflation to 2019, it comes out to $10,298.   Buy a new Enfield 650 and you’ve already saved $4500.  That’s the argument I’m going to use with She Who Must Be Obeyed.  I think it will work, too.

I’m going to break our rule and post more than one blog today.  We are living in exciting times, my friends, and I can’t wait to share the excitement with you.   The 500cc Bullet is about 45 minutes out (it’s being delivered from the RE dealer in Glendale) and I’ll post an update about that later today, too!

I can’t wait to get on the road tomorrow.

Stay tuned, and hey, sign up for our automatic email blog updates!

BajaBound on Royal Enfield!

The new Royal Enfield 650cc twin. We’ll be riding this and a 500cc Bullet single in Baja!

Ever wonder what Royal Enfield motorcycles are like?  I mean, really like?  You know, on a real adventure ride?

Joe and I are headed south tomorrow morning, and we’re riding (drum roll please) Royal Enfield motorcycles.   Not just any Royal Enfields, either, but factory bikes of a most interesting flavor…the exciting new 650 Interceptor twin (the actual bike you see above) and a 500cc Bullet single.  We’re picking up both bikes today, and wow, are we ever pumped!

This is going to be extremely interesting…it’s one of the very first long distance trips on the new 650, it’s the first time it will be in Baja, and we’re  excited about all of it.   You’ll get our unvarnished impressions of how the bikes perform, how they compare to each other, and how they compare to the other bikes we’ve ridden.

These are exciting times, folks.  The market is changing dramatically with real bikes at real prices  (not the bloated, heavy, monstrous, and expensive behemoths most of the manufacturers have been shoving at us for the last 20 or 30 years).    You know, I’ve been wanting a classic English vertical 650 twin for decades, and as a guy who rode singles all over China, Colombia, Mexico, and the US, I’m doubly excited about the Enfield 500cc single.   This is a dream come true and we’d like you to read about it and enjoy the experience, too.   Joe and I will see the whales, enjoy the fish tacos and other amazing Baja cuisine, and ride the best roads in the most exciting place in the world:  Baja!

You can bet we’ll be riding with our BajaBound insurance, wearing our RHeroes workshirts and doing the things guys do on trips like this. And more likely than not you’ll be reading more about this ride in Motorcycle Classics, RoadRUNNER, ADVMoto, and Motorcycle.com magazines (Gresh and I have had stories in all these publications).   In the meantime, you’ll be able to follow the adventure in real time right here!

We’ll be posting from Baja every day, with great photos and great stories, so stay tuned!  And hey, while you’re here, why not sign up for our blog update notifications?   Just add your email address to the widget you see on this page, and you’ll be eligible for our quarterly adventure motorcycle book giveaway!