The Sopranos – The ExhaustNotes Blog

The Sopranos: The Final Scene

By Joe Berk

Very few (if any) final scenes have sparked as much discussion and controversy as the final Sopranos scene. Tony Soprano and his family are meeting for dinner at Holsten’s in Bloomfield, New Jersey, the fictional mob wars between the New York and New Jersey families have ended, and we think all is well. Their favorite local restaurant is Holsten’s, which Tony mentions in the series. Is it a real place?

Absolutely. And it’s good. We found Holsten’s and had lunch there (it’s at 1063 Broad Street in Bloomfield, New Jersey), and I was surprised. The place has to be the most famous small local restaurant in the world, and you’d think with the kind of publicity they’ve had, they wouldn’t be very good. People from literally all over the world (more on that in a minute) find their way to Holsten’s. But it is good. Very good, in fact. More on that in a minute, too.

I was able to park directly in front of Holsten’s, and as I was getting out, I noticed a young couple scrambling to cross the street and get into the restaurant. I had an idea why, so I slowed down a bit.

Okay, to make what I’m going to show you make sense, I need to tell you a bit about that last scene up front. In the photo below, there are three Holsten’s locations you need to know about. The photo below shows them as you enter the restaurant.

As you enter Holsten’s, there’s a long lunch counter and booths at the back of the restaurant. Arrow B points to where the likely hitman initially sat. Arrow A points to the small hallway that leads to the restrooms, where the shot that took out Tony was fired from. Arrow C points to the booth where Tony sat, enjoying his onion rings, when he got whacked.

That young couple racing to get into the restaurant? I was right. They were hustling to grab the booth all the way in the back, where Tony, Carmela, and AJ sat. In the Sopranos scene, Tony was flipping through the mini-jukebox on the table. Today it’s the only table in the restaurant that has that little jukebox. They used to be at every table in any New Jersey diner. Notice the sign denoting the booth, too.

We sat one booth up from the Sopranos’ booth and we started talking to the young couple I mentioned above. They were doing the same thing we were: hitting locations that appear in different Sopranos episodes. Sue told them we were from California. They told us they were from (get this) Poland! Yep, they flew all the way from Poland to do what we were doing. These folks were serious Sopranos fans. Check out his tattoos:

This is beyond being a mere fan, I think.

Impressive. Christopher, Tony, Silvio, and Pauly. And before you ask: Yes, I know these are fictional characters.

You no doubt realize by now that I am a serious Sopranos fan. But I don’t have any tattoos denoting any of the characters in The Sopranos, and I have no plans to get any.

We had a lunch, and (as mentioned above), it was surprisingly good. I had a tuna melt. We ordered a plate of onion rings. Just minutes before he got whacked, Tony Soprano said they were the best onion rings in the state. I’ve sampled a lot of onion rings in New Jersey, and I think he was right.

The menu was simple. Our lunch selections were excellent. The people from Poland thought so, too.

We left feeling pretty good. I grabbed one more shot with my cell phone.

A parting shot: The Holsten’s storefront.

About that last scene: The audience never does find out exactly what happened. Tony looks up as Meadow (his daughter) is entering the restaurant, and the screen and the sound suddenly go to a silent black. Most people thought their TVs had gone out. I did. Then the credits start rolling by, and we realized that one of the best series ever, all six seasons of it, were over. It was brilliant.

Take a look, remembering the locations I pointed out in that photo above.

The Sopranos ExNotes Wrap Up (for now)

Well, sort of. I’m not entirely done with The Sopranos. This is the fourth (or maybe fifth) one of our blogs on The Sopranos, and I don’t have any more planned until the next trip back to the Garden State. About that “maybe fifth” business: One of The Sopranos episodes takes place in the New Jersey Pine Barrens. I rode the Pine Barrens when I did the piece on Jerry Dowgin’s Honda 305 Scrambler (rest in peace, Jerry). The Sopranos episode didn’t actually take place in the Pine Barrens, as anybody knows who’s ever been there (it was filmed in a forest somewhere in New York, and they didn’t even have pine trees). Parts of that episode were funny as hell, though, as you can see in this clip:

The other three Sopranos blogs we’ve done recently are:

Please let us know if you enjoyed our Sopranos sojourn. Leave a comment below and let us know what you think.

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The Sopranos: Asbury Park

By Joe Berk

Asbury Park, New Jersey, is another Sopranos location. In the series, several episodes depict Tony Soprano’s dreams. It’s a well-worn cinematic technique, but David Chase (The Sopranos writer) did it well. In the Asbury Park scene, Tony has been diagnosed with cancer and he pours gasoline over himself and self immolates in front of his minions. Tony’s a good guy, you see, and he wants to short circuit his suffering and spare his friends the hospital visits associated with his impending lengthy illness.

In the video above, the building that spans the boardwalk is the Asbury Park Convention Center. You can see it and the boardwalk, along with the beach (what we in New Jersey call “the shaw,” as in “Let’s go down the shaw…”) in the photo above this blog.

On the Asbury Park boardwalk, approaching the Convention Center.

In a later scene during Tony’s dream, Tony shoots Pauly Walnuts inside the Convention Center during a card game. Throughout the series, Tony’s relationship with Pauly is complicated. Pauly is probably Tony’s most loyal minion (along with Silvio Dante), but Pauly is constantly getting on Tony’s nerves. The character development The Sopranos is very well done; it is one of many areas in which the show shines. You probably can tell I am a Sopranos fanboy. I am what I am.

Inside the Asbury Park Convention Center. The red arrow denotes where Tony (in his dream) shot Pauly.

The coin-operated binoculars you see in the video are no longer on the boardwalk, but they were there when I was a kid and I remember wishing I had the coins and the height to be able to see through them. The benches you see in the video (on the boardwalk, facing the Atlantic) are still there.

Inside the Convention Center. It was built in 1929. I don’t think it is still used for conventions. It would be cool if it did.

On the south side of the Convention Center, looking east at the Atlantic Ocean. In The Many Saints of Newark (a recently released prequel to the Sopranos), Dickie Moltisante (Tony’s childhood hero), murdered his girlfriend (and former stepmother) in the Atlantic at this spot. It’s a complicated plot.

Looking north along the Asbury Park boardwalk (on the northern side of the Convention Center, which was just behind me when I took this photo).

On the day I visited Asbury Park, contractors were erecting a stage right on the beach for a Bruce Springsteen concert the next day. General admission tickets were $350; select seating tickets went as high as $4,000. These were not scalper prices; these are the prices that were published for the event. I learned this talking to a young lady inside the Convention Center. I still have my New Jersey accent, and just for grins, I told her I went to high school with Bruce. I didn’t, but I was having fun.

On the north side of the Convention Center, looking south. That stage to the left is where the Springsteen concert was going to be.

“Really?” she said. I am Bruce Springsteen’s age, and young people are easily fooled. I think she believed me.

“What was he like?” she asked, wide eyed.

“Truth be told, he was a first-class pain in the ass,” I answered. “Even in those days, he wanted everyone to call him ‘The Boss.’ It was weird, but we humored the guy.” Her mouth opened in amazement. She was buying my line, but it wasn’t true. There’s only one boss, and his name is Tony Soprano.

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The Sopranos: Paterson Falls

By Joe Berk

Another one of the stops on my New Jersey Sopranos tour was Paterson Falls. Although only about 40 miles or so from where I grew up, I’d never been there.

I knew of the town, though. It’s an old industrial village with waterfalls, which meant that in the early days of our country it was perfect for industrial development. The falls provided hydraulic power, and that could be used to drive machinery. Indeed, it’s where Samuel Colt built his first run of revolvers, which are known (not surprisingly) as Paterson Colts. Paterson was established as the nation’s first planned industrial city in 1792, with its readily-available hydraulic power and close proximity to New York City and the Atlantic Ocean. Paterson manufactured silk cloth, steam locomotives, textiles, paper, firearms, and aircraft engines. It is centered on the Passaic River, which flows into Newark Bay and from there to the Atlantic Ocean.

The Passaic Falls are contained within the Paterson Great Falls National Historic Park, which is (as the name implies) part of the U.S. National Park system. All this was news to me, which is kind of amazing when you consider that I grew up a short 40 miles to the south. I’d never known any of this, and to learn about it at my age was surprising. I’ll give the credit for that to David Chase (the guy who created The Sopranos). Had that show not sparked my interest, I’d still be ignorant.

So, let’s move on to the scene in The Sopranos that caught my attention. It’s the episode in which Mikey Palmici (Uncle Junior’s driver and bodyguard) throws a drug dealer off the bridge over the Passaic Falls:

That episode you see above occurred later in The Sopranos. There was another scene in the very first Sopranos episode on the same bridge shown above in which Hesh Rabkin and Big Pussy Bompensiero (two of The Sopranos characters) threaten to throw a health insurance company executive (a guy named Alex Mahaffey, played by Michael Gaston) off the same bridge if he didn’t cooperate with a Sopranos scam to defraud the insurance company.

When threatened with a swan dive off the bridge, Mahaffey gave in to the Soprano family’s demands, but alas, his Sopranos career was over; Michael Gaston never appeared in another episode. But that didn’t mean Sue and I wouldn’t see him again. In one of our trips to New Jersey, we rode the Air Trans shuttle between the airport and the rental car facility. Just before we boarded the shuttle, Michael Gaston was leaving the car we entered. We didn’t bug him, but we made eye contact and he knew we knew who he was.

Michael Gaston, an actor we bumped into on the Newark Airport Air Trans.

There’s a lot more to Paterson, though, then simply having been a location for a couple of The Sopranos scenes. Here’s another video that describes Paterson’s history:

Today, Paterson is undergoing a renaissance, as the old factory buildings are being converted to loft apartments. Yup, Paterson is being yuppified. It looks like an interesting place to spend more time, but my schedule didn’t permit doing so on this visit. For us it was roll into town, grab a few photos, and bail.

A view of Passaic Falls. This is a beautiful area.

The wood-surfaced foot bridge featured in two different Sopranos episodes.

Another view of the bridge. It’s closed to the public. On the Internet, it says it’s for safety reasons. One of my police buddies told me it’s because there were too many suicides from this bridge.

Another view of the Passaic River and its Falls in Paterson.

While we were visiting the Paterson Great Falls National Historic Park, this rather plump groundhog was doing the same. My Dad used to hunt these in New Jersey with his .243 Model 70 Winchester and the farmers loved having him do so. These woodchucks may look cute, but they destroy a lot of crops.

One thing I know for sure: I’ll return to Paterson. I’d like to explore the city, its museums, and more in greater detail.

Want to see our other visits to The Sopranos locations? Here they are:

The Sopranos Mansion

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Tony Soprano’s Home

By Joe Berk

The scenes and the locations are iconic, and I take pride in recognizing every one of them in The Sopranos opening credits. The music, the New Jersey Turnpike toll booth, the aged industrial locations, Pizzaland, and motoring up that long driveway at 14 Aspen Drive in North Caldwell, New Jersey. Today’s topic is the home you see at the beginning of every episode in what is unquestionably the best television series that ever aired.

I had originally seen the series sometime after it first ran on HBO. I didn’t at first recognize how wonderful the show was and how it would come to be known throughout the world. It was so good that many people think Tony Soprano is real. I was in Scotland for a consulting gig when my driver, an elderly gentleman, recognized my American accent but told me I didn’t sound “like California.”

“I’m originally from New Jersey,” I explained.

My driver grew silent. He was thinking. Finally, the Question: “Do you know Tony Soprano?” He was dead serious. We were in Glasgow on a motorway taking me to my destination, and here was this Scot asking me about a fictional character. One who obviously seemed all too real to anyone who watched the show.

“I never actually met the man,” I truthfully answered, “But I know people who knew him.”

What I told the driver was true, sort of. James Gandolfini, one of Tony’s many aliases, was a Jersey boy like me. He graduated from my alma mater, Rutgers University. I could identify with The Sopranos and its New Jersey setting. I knew people who spoke with the same accent and who most likely knew the DeCavalcante crime family (the real-world gangsters The Sopranos modeled). Hell, I speak with the same accent, and that old Scot picked up on it in Glasgow. Did I know Tony? Hey, I could name names, but I don’t want to sleep with the fish. I’m no rat.

On a recent trip, I thought it might be fun to Waze my way to a few of The Sopranos locations. The list was long, as the show was mostly shot in New Jersey (as were most of the guys and a couple of gals who fell from Tony’s favor). The first location I would visit, of course, had to be Tony and Carmela’s mansion. Waze knew the way. The Garden State Parkway took me there, and that seemed fitting.

When we arrived, the cul-de-sac was way smaller than it had appeared each morning when a bathrobe-clad Tony waddled down the driveway to pick up his Newark Star Ledger (a paper I used to read, by the way). I couldn’t see too much of the mansion, the result of 25 years of landscaping doing what landscaping does. The trees and bushes had grown to obscure the view from the street. It’s what Tony (or any organized crime figure) would have wanted. Best to keep a low profile, free from Agent Harris’s probing eyes.

When a guy like Tony Soprano posts a sign like this, I pay attention. Nah, not really. What’s he gonna do? Coincidentally, we had that same mailbox in front of our house for years. It leaked and we grew tired of wet mail.

There it was, tucked away behind the vegetation, most definitely the mansion featured in so many episodes and, as mentioned above, in the opening at the start of every episode. Even though the current occupants obviously discouraged visitors, we still took our chances. As I was snapping photos midmorning on this New Jersey weekday, others appeared and did the same. Some of them might have been FBI agents. The fans of fame kept the flame burning bright, almost three decades after the music and the scenes first appeared. Note to self: Make the next visit in the dead of winter when the trees are bare, and do so late in the afternoon when the sun is in a better position. The lighting was not good when I gathered this evidence; a good lawyer could get the photos thrown out in court (a junior G-Man I’m not).

14 Aspen Drive. If you listen carefully, you can hear Carmela bitching.

The sign’s admonitions notwithstanding, I looked around and started working the Nikon’s shutter (I’m not gonna lay down for some mailbox sign). The neighborhood was befitting a kingpin like Tony Soprano. The home on the other side of the cul-de-sac was better lit by the sun’s mid-morning rays, so I had to shoot it, too. Collateral damage; couldn’t be helped. An impressive zip code, to be sure.

A home across the street from Tony’s place. This is an exclusive neighborhood.

I liked The Sopranos television series then and I like it now. I watch The Sopranos episodes on my cellphone (it’s running on Max) when I’m working out. I get through an episode or so each time I visit the gym. I’ve been through the entire series four times (and I’m into Season 5 for the fifth time now). I started binge watching The Sopranos 18 pounds ago. The Sopranos have been very good to me, my waistline, my cholesterol, and my A1C. I need to buy a new belt, and Tony is the guy who made that happen.

So what’s next? Paterson Falls, my friend. It’s where Mikey Palmici threw a drug dealer off the bridge. Stay tuned if you know what’s good for you.

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Coming Up: A Soprano Safari

Yep, that’s what I’m planning now. Susie and I are flying to New Jersey for a class reunion, and I’m going to be the ultimate tourist. What I have in mind is a series of visits to key spots that were featured in the HBO television series, The Sopranos. If there’s something you think I’ve missed, let me know and it may just show up on the list.

Holsten’s Restaurant

Holsten’s is the restaurant where Tony was whacked. It’s still open. Never been there; I’ve been wanting to ever since The Sopranos hit the airwaves.

Bahr’s and the Sandy Hook Marina

Bahr’s is the outstanding seafood restaurant Tony and others mention frequently in the series, and the Sandy Hook Marina where Tony kept his boat (The Stugots) is just below it. I’ve been to both places many times, and I’m looking forward to going again.

Pizza Land

Pizza Land is the pizza place you see Tony drive by in the opening scene of every episode. It was a low revenue pizza joint before it made it into the Sopranos. It has since become a sensation. Today, they ship frozen pizzas all over the world, and it all came about because of that brief glimpse in the opening scene.

Wilson’s Carpet Store

The giant carpet guy statue is another feature seen in the opening scene of every Soprano’s episode. It’s in Jersey City, the same place that xxx gun store is located (there the guys that handle the FFL transfer for the MacManus Award 1911 every year). I’ll got a shot of the carpet guy and the gun shop.

St. Patrick’s Cathedral

This is one of two churches used in the series. It’s the one Tony shows to AJ when he explains what things were like for the Italian immigrants who came to America. Like Wilson’s Carpet Store, it’s in Jersey City. My Mom grew up in Jersey City and my grandparents lived there for a while. I want to see it again; I haven’t been there in more than 60 years.

Cleveland Auto Body

This is a body shop that was run by Big Pussy Bompensiero and was taken over by his wife, Angie Bompansiero, after Big Pussy was whacked for being a rat. I understand it’s a real body shop. I want to get a photo.

Tony and Carmela’s Mansion

Yep, it’s an actual house that a couple actually lived in when The Sopranos producers spotted. They asked if they could rent the house and the rest is history.

The Rutgers Campus

Rutgers is mentioned many times in The Sopranos. In the story, Tony attended a semester and a half at Seton Hall, but in real life, James Gandolfini attended and graduated from Rutgers. So did I. I want to visit the campus again, stop in to say hi to the ROTC detachment, and shoot a few pictures.

The Paterson Falls

There are a couple of scenes filmed at the falls in Paterson, New Jersey. In one, Mikey Palmici throws a guy off a bridge. In another, Hesh threatens to do the same. I’ve never been there. I’ll fix that on this trip.

The Skyway Diner

This diner appears in several scenes, most notably with Janice Melfi (Tony’s psychiatrist) and Christopher Multisanti. We have a lot of diners in New Jersey. I’ve never been in a bad one. If it’s still in business, I’ll stop there for a cup of coffee.

Joe’s Bake Shop

This is bakery where Christopher Multisanti shoots a counter guy in the foot for slow service. I don’t now if it’s real, but if it is, I want to stop and get a pastry. I know it will be good; it’s where I grew up there are no bad bakeries in New Jersey.

Father Phil’s Church

Father Phil was a kind of a mealy-mouthed priest that Tony saw through right away. There were a few scenes filmed in that church. I’m going to stop in.

Satriale’s

Satriale’s was a fictional pork store used by Tony and his crew. It’s since been demolished and today it’s a parking lot. That’s the pork store used in the series. What you may not know is one quarter of a mile away on the same street is a real pork store that was used by the DeCavalcante crime family, the real organized crime group. If I can get a photo without getting in trouble, I’m going to.

The Bada Bing

There never was a real Bada Bing topless joint, and topless dancing is illegal in New Jersey. But The Satin Dolls in Lodi (a similar bar with a similar theme, but again, not topless) that was used for the show was real and I will stop there. I read somewhere that it had closed too, but you never know. Anything for the ExNotes blog, guys.

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Movie Review: The Many Saints of Newark

The Many Saints of Newark is a movie that spoke to me on many levels. I’m from New Jersey, I’ve watched every episode of The Sopranos probably four times or more, I’m a James Gandolfini fan, I grew up in New Jersey when the Newark race riots occurred (which figured prominently in The Many Saints of Newark), and there are scenes in and around Bahr’s Landing, arguably the best seafood restaurant in the world. Ah, where to begin.

Michael and James Gandolfini, both playing Tony Soprano. James Gandolfini went to Rutgers, as did I and many of my friends in New Jersey.

For starters, the movie is the story of Tony Soprano as a kid and then a teenager. The Many Saints of Newark is a prequel. The young Tony Soprano is played by none other than Michael Gandolfini, James Gandolfini’s real son. Michael Gandolfini’s looks and his mannerisms make him completely believable as a younger version of the mob boss. I can’t imagine the pressure on this young man as an actor to play the role well. My compliments and thanks to you, Mr. Gandolfini. You succeeded and your father would be proud.

Corrado Soprano, aka Uncle Jun, then and now.

Silvio Dante. In the Sopranos, Steven Van Zandt played Silvio.

Big Pussy, who turned turned FBI informant and was later whacked by Tony Soprano.

Pauly Walnuts. In real life, the guy who played Pauly had been a real mobster.

Bahr’s Seafood Landing in Atlantic Highlands, New Jersey. I had dinner there just last month. In my opinion, it’s the best seafood restaurant on the planet.

Most of the characters in The Sopranos are shown in their earlier years in The Many Saints of Newark, including Silvio Dante, Pauly Walnuts, Tony’s mother, Tony’s sister Janice, Big Pussy, and others. Whoever did the casting on this movie did a very good job; the actors in each role were completely believable as younger versions of themselves. They were superb. The actors must have spent considerable time studying The Sopranos. Their accents, their mannerisms, their speech patterns, their expressions, even the way they walked brought back memories of The Sopranos series. It was an incredible set of performances.

In addition to the actors shown above, the late Ray Liotta actually played two roles, but I don’t want to spoil the movie for you. He was good in both.

You can watch The Many Saints of Newark on Netflix for $7.99 or you can get it on Amazon, and trust me, it will be money well spent. I give The Many Saints of Newark two thumbs up only because I don’t have more thumbs. When the movie ended, it closed with the theme music from The Sopranos (emphasizing its place as a prequel), and that was a nice touch.

More reviews are here.

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