Category: National Park

Cool Stuff Near Death Valley

By Joe Berk

I recently posted a couple of blogs about Death Valley, including a recap of my several visits over the last decade.  This blog is a little bit different.  it’s about some of the cool stuff near Death Valley.  I didn’t have any hard rules about how close “near” means.  I’m including the places I’ve visited and thought were worth a mention.  If you think there should be more, leave a comment and tell us about it.  We love hearing from you and we love when you click on the popup ads, so don’t forget to do so (and when you see that donate button at the bottom of this blog…well, you know what to do).

I shot most of the photos in this blog with my Nikon D810 and the 24-120 Nikon lens.  A few were with the Nikon N70 film camera I recently wrote about, and where that is the case, I’ll say so in the photo caption.

Baker

When visiting Death Valley from the south (as in southern Calilfornia), it’s likely you’ll pick up Highway 127 in Baker, just off Interstate 15.  There used to be a hotel in Baker, but it’s gone.  There are a couple of gas stations a couple of tacky fast food franchises, but don’t waste your time eating in a fast food franchise.  What you want is the Mad Greek.

The Mad Greek restaurant in Baker, California.

I didn’t eat at the Mad Greek on this trip (either coming to or leaving Death Valley).  Sue decided several trips ago she didn’t like the place, so I deferred to her wishes.  I never know when I might want to buy more reloading components, another gun, another watch, or another motorcycle, so we took a pass on the Mad Greek (Sue is of Greek ancestry; maybe that has something to do with it).  When I ever pass through Baker on my own, though, the Mad Greek is a sure thing.

The Baker thermometer. If you are going to visit Death Valley, the winter months are very comfortable (it was 68 degrees when I took this photo). It gets warmer in the summer.

The other thing Baker is famous for is its thermometer.  It’s 134 feet tall, in honor of reaching that record temperature in 1913 (I guess we had global warming back then, too).  If you go through Baker, you have to get a photo of the Baker thermometer.  It’s a rite of passage.

Highway 127

The signs are new; the Old Spanish Trail is not.

The ride north through the California desert from Baker to Death Valley is both beautiful and historic.  It follows the Old Spanish Trail, something I had never of until I saw the signs and did a little research.  Established in 1829, the Spanish Trail is a 700-mile long road that runs from Santa Fe to southern California.  It traverses New Mexico, Colorado, Utah, Arizona, Nevada, and California.  John C. Fremont and Kit Carson used it.  Serapes and other woven goods went to California from New Mexico; California’s horses and mules went to Santa Fe.  Indian slaves, contraband, and more used this same route.

Looking north on California Highway 127 after leaving Baker. You probably think I cranked up the saturation on this photo, but I didn’t. The CalTrans folks had recently repainted the yellow and white lines.  The dark blue skies are due to the polarizing filter I had on my 24-120 lens.

Shoshone

The first time I ever visited Shoshone was on the Destinations Deal ride.   I remember well the terror I felt on that stretch of road, leading a group of other riders after a long day through Death Valley.   We were heading south on Badwater Basin Road and I was relying on my cell phone and Waze to guide me.  I was worried about running out of gas, keeping one eye on the gas gage and the other on the road.  I should be okay, I kept thinking, but I’d never been this way before and I didn’t know.  Then my Waze program quit.  It had been running on stored info because I had no cell phone reception for the last 60 or 70 miles.  The gas gage was nudging closer to the “no more” line and I was sweating bullets.  It sure was remote out there.

Finally, Highway 178 ran into Highway 127 and a sign pointed to Shoshone.  I felt better, and then I realized I didn’t have the Shoshone Inn’s address where we would spend the night.  “How will I find it?” I wondered.  It wouldn’t be easy leading other riders while looking for the place (I’ve had to do this on other rides).  Then I was suddenly in Shoshone and I started to laugh.  You can’t miss the Shoshone Inn.  It’s one of only three or four buildings.  I’d say Shoshone was a wide spot in the road, but California 127 was no wider there than it was anywhere else.

Shoshone was founded by Ralph Fairbanks in 1910; initially, it was primarily a mining town (old Ralph was a Death Valley prospector and entrepreneur).  Charles Brown (yep, Charlie Brown) married Fairbanks’ daughter.  Charlie and Stella moved away, but they returned in 1920 and further developed the town.  Charlie became a California state senator and he turned ownership of Shoshone over to his son (who was also named Charles Brown).  I guess you might say Shoshone is a Charlie Brown kind of place.  I been there a few times, always looking for a girl named Lucy, but so far, I’ve had no luck.

The sign lies.

As I mentioned in an earlier blog, the Population 31 sign lied.  It’s only 13 people now.  The lady who runs the hotel (Jennifer, not Lucy) commutes from Pahrump (Pahrump is about 45 minutes east on the other side of the Nevada state line).  She told us about the sign lying.  The rest of the people either died or moved away.  None of them were named Lucy.

Shoshone is the last town before the southern entrance to Death Valley National Park.   One woman, a Mrs. Sorrells, inherited the town.  There’s a school that handles kids from K through 12th grade, some of whom commute from up to 120 miles away.  There’s a general store (including a gas station), a museum, a restaurant (the Crowbar Cafe and Saloon), a nature trail, an RV park, and an unmanned airstrip.  I guess if you are flying to Shoshone, you have to make a pass or two over the runway to make sure it’s clear.

The Shoshone Inn

A film photo taken with the Nikon N70 and tweaked in Photoshop.

The Shoshone Inn is surprisingly nice, although it’s probably time for it to be refurbished.  There’s a gas-fired fire pit outside in the unpaved parking lot; when I rode into Shoshone with the Destinations Deal crew we spent a nice evening drinking Joe Gresh’s beer, which he bought from Shoshone’s next-door Charles Brown general store.

I got up early the next morning to take pictures with my film camera (the N70 my sister gave to me) and I saw that the fire pit was still going; I think the Shoshone Inn desk clerk may have forgotten to turn it off (they will be surprised when they get their gas bill).

The Charlie Brown Rocks

A view of the Charlie Brown rocks.

When I Googled what else was around Shoshone, the Charlie Brown rocks appeared.  Highway 178 east intersects with Highway 127 right at the southern edge of Shoshone.  When I saw the Charlie Brown rocks on Google, I wasn’t sure how far east on 178 I’d have to go, but when I approached Shoshone, I saw it was not far at all.  The rocks are what appear to be sandstone formations and they are kind of in your face as you approach Shoshone.   I could see the cave openings I’d read about, but there were signs to ward off trespassers and I didn’t want to wander in.  A few photos were good enough.

A shot from Highway 178.

The Crowbar Cafe and Saloon

An N70 photo of the Crowbar Cafe and Saloon. It’s diagonally across the street from the Shoshone Inn.

Sue and I had two meals in the Crowbar.  As I had experienced on previous visits (especially if you get there later in the day) it’s good to have three or four meal choices ready when the waitress takes your order.  Hamburgers?  No hamburgers, we had a busload of Chinese tourists come through and they ate all the hamburgers.   Trout?  No trout.  Tacos?  Yep, the Crowbar had tacos and they were surprisingly good.

The same restaurant, but with the D810 Nikon. Digital is superior to film. Duh.

When we left after lunch that first day, we spotted a small airplane on the runway at the town’s southern edge (the runway is tucked into the southeastern corner of the Highway 127/178 intersection).  There’s no tower or buildings or anything else there, and you only see that it’s a paved runway when you look (you wouldn’t notice it otherwise).  We think the four young guys who were sitting one table over from us at lunch flew in from somewhere to eat at the Crowbar.

We sat at the bar the next night and the one-man-band lady who handled everything (waitressing, barmaiding, dishwashing, etc.) asked if I wanted a beer.   You bet, I answered.  There were four taps, all unmarked.  She didn’t know which tap had which beer, so she poured me a small sample of each and I opted for a craft-brewed dark beer.  The bartender/waiter/dishwasher told me was made in nearby Tecopa. It was good, as were the chicken fajitas Sue and I shared for dinner.

The Shoshone Museum

An N70 photo of the Museum. Not too bad for an old film camera.

We didn’t go into the Shoshone museum because it was closed the two times we visited the Crowbar (it’s right next door).  It didn’t look as if there was much there; it was all housed in a very small building.  I took a picture of an old Chevy, an old fuel pump, and a bit of junk in front of the museum.  I’m guessing the museum used to be a gas station.  I’ll bet Charlie Brown owned it.

Tecopa Springs

Tecopa Springs is short drive east of Shoshone on Highway 178.   We went there twice.  We saw quite a few RVs but we only saw a few people in front of Tecopa’s two restaurants.  A young fellow we spoke to at the Crowbar the previous night told us he lived in Tecopa for six months each year and worked remotely (he was a digital nomad like Mike Huber).  I imagine he spent winters in Tecopa and found someplace cooler in the summer.  He said he came into Shoshone once a week for dinner because he wanted fried food and he couldn’t make fried food in his RV.

The two restaurants in Tecopa are a barbeque place and a combined bar and pizza place.   The digital nomad we spoke with in the Crowbar said Wednesday (the day we rolled into Tecopa for dinner) was the best night at the barbeque place, but that restaurant was closed when we rode by.  We rode on to the beer and pizza palace. When we entered, I asked the guy at the bar about the dark beer I’d had the night before in Shoshone (which was made in Tecopa), but they didn’t serve that brew there.  He gave me a small sample of their dark beer (also brewed in Tecopa).  It had kind of a peanut flavor to it and I thought it was okay, but the beer the previous night was better.  The bar only had two seats; there were other people drinking and smoking at tables outside the restaurant.

What can I say? Folks in Tecopa don’t have a lot to do, I guess.   This is an N70 photo.

When I asked about their dark beer, the one guy who was seated at the bar told me,”it’s this one…the dick.”  I wasn’t sure I heard him correctly until I looked at the tap (which I hadn’t noticed).  It was, indeed, a dick.  I had to grab a photo.

Tecopa pizza, via the N70. There’s a whole lotta PhotoShop tweakin’ goin’ on in this photo.

We ordered a pizza that seemed to take forever.  When the guy finally brought it out, it was cold.  It had probably sat for a while. Trust me on this: You wouldn’t want to make the trip to Tecopa for the pizza.  Maybe the photo ops, but not the pizza.

There’s also a date farm somewhere beyond Tecopa.  Sue and I rode out there after dinner, but it closed at 5:00 p.m. and we were too late.  They had date shakes and I was looking forward to one, but that will have to wait until my next visit.

The Amargosa Opera House

After poking around a bit more on the Internet, I read about the Amargosa Opera House in Death Valley Junction.   It was 50 miles north of Shoshone.  The pictures on the Internet looked like the Opera House theatre’s interior would make for an interesting photo stop, so I called a couple of days before.  I mentioned that I was doing this for the ExhaustNotes website and possibly, a travel article for Motorcycle Classics magazine.

My free photo. Saved $500 on that one, I did.

A young lady answered the phone and told me I needed to email their Director of Operations.  She promised he would get back to me that day.  That sounded like a plan and the Director of Operations did indeed get back to me with this message:  I could take their daily tour (at a cost of $15 per person) or I could pay $500 for one hour to photograph the theatre.  Gulp.  I can’t remember ever paying anyone anything for something like this.

Sue and I rode to Death Valley Junction anyway, and I grabbed a few photos from the outside.  When we first saw the place, it looked run down.  It’s hard to believe anyone would stay their hotel, but I guess people do.  A few photos and a $500 savings later, we were back on the road.

Pahrump

After spending another half day in Death Valley National Park, we decided to head over to Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.  That’s near Las Vegas.  On the way over, we crossed into Nevada and entered Pahrump.  Pahrump is a much bigger town than anything around Death Valley.  It has been one of the fastest growing towns in the entire U.S., with 15% year-over-year population growth for each of the last several years.  We thought Pahrump would be a good place to have lunch, and we were right.

Mom’s: A great restaurant in Pahrump.

Sue found a place called Mom’s on her cell phone, it had great reviews, and we had to wait a few minutes to get in (which is always a good sign).  Trust me on this:  If you ever find yourself in Pahrump, Mom’s is where you want to eat.

I had a corn beef hash omelet for lunch at Mom’s. It was magnificent.

As I mentioned above, we went through Pahrump on our way to the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.  I was going to squeeze that in here, too, but this blog is getting a little long.  I’ll save Red Rock for another blog.

On the ride out of town on our way back to Shoshone, we stopped for gas in Pahrump.  It was $3.68 per gallon.  That’s a good two bucks cheaper than what we pay in California.  After filling up and on the way out of town, we saw a gun store creatively named Pahrump Guns and Ammo.  Sue won’t let me drive past a gun store without stopping, so we did.  It was a small place and we had a nice visit with the two guys who worked there.  I told them we were from California and we were collecting campaign contributions for Hillary Clinton.  We had a good laugh.  People in Pahrump have a sense of humor.

Barstow’s Del Taco Restaurants

You probably think I’m crazy including the Barstow Del Taco restaurants in this blog.   I’m listing it here because if you’re going to Death Valley from southern California, it’s a safe bet you’re going to pass through Barstow, and if you’re going to pass through Barstow, you need to stop at one of the three Del Tacos there.

There’s a story behind this.  About 15 years ago I had a bad motorcycle crash and I had to spend a month in the hospital.  One of the guys I shared a room with was the son of Ed Hackbarth, the entrepreneur who founded the Del Taco restaurant chain.

One of the three Barstow Del Taco restaurants.  Trust me on this: You want to stop at Del Taco in Barstow.

Ed Hackbarth is a real prince of a guy.  He started Del Taco in Barstow, the restaurant chain was riotously successful, and it spread all over the U.S.  Ed sold the Del Taco chain way back in 1976 to a group of investors and it continues to thrive.  But there’s a big difference between the rest of the Del Taco empire and the three Del Tacos in Barstow.  When Ed sold Del Taco, part of the deal was that he kept the original three Barstow Del Tacos.  Ed would continue to use the Del Taco name on those three restaurants, but he didn’t have to use the Del Taco menu and he could serve food the way he wanted.  And that’s what Ed does.  The portions are bigger (they’re huge, actually), everything is fresh (nothing is ever frozen), the restaurants are immaculate, and the staff is super friendly.  The Barstow Del Tacos have some of the best tacos and burritos I’ve ever had.  We won’t drive through Barstow without stopping at one of Ed’s three Del Tacos, and there’s been times we’ve made the 80-mile trek from my home to Barstow just for a taco.  You should try one.  You can thank me later.

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Death Valley 2024

By Joe Berk

I guess I like Death Valley, because when Sue and I learned we had to use or lose some of our airline miles (and that we could use them for a hotel stay), we opted for a couple of nights at the Shoshone Inn in Shoshone, California (Shoshone is a little town just below Death Valley’s southern edge).  Plus, I wanted to play with the N70 Nikon (a film camera) a little more and compare some of its photos to the digital pics from my Nikon D810.

The 2024 Death Valley Adventure Run route. We took a couple of days to do this and more. You could cram it all into a single day, but what be the point?

The plan was to roll in to Shoshone through Baker, and hit Dante’s View, Zabriskie Point, Artist’s Palette, Badwater Basin, the Ashford Mill ruins, and then head back to Shoshone.  If we had enough time, we wanted to explore other points of interest, too.

When we checked in to the Shoshone Hotel on this visit, I asked about the 31 people who lived there. The hotel clerk told me the sign lied. The current population was 13 (not 31) people.

Dante’s View

The sign up at Dante’s View, nicely oxidized.

Our first stop the next morning was at Dante’s View.  This spot gives a good overview of nearly the entire Death Valley basin and the surrounding mountains.  Here’s the view looking northwest:

You can see that Death Valley was flooded, and that the floodwaters in the basin were receding. No kayaking allowed by the time we arrived.

The vantage point at Dante’s View is really a panorama from nearly due north to nearly due south.  I took several photographs from that vantage point and stitched them together in Photoshop.   The photo below is a link.  If you click on it, it will open a larger version.

Go ahead and click on this photo…I dare you.

Zabriskie Point

From there, it was on to Zabriskie Point.  We backtracked from Dante’s View back to Highway 190, turned left, and then headed to Zabriskie Point.  The ride through the rolling desert was nice, and the views were spectacular.

Walking up to Zabriskie Point. This is another scenic location, with lots of California and Death Valley geology on display.
A view of the different strata at Zabriskie Point.
Looking across Death Valley to the snow-capped mountains on the other side.
Zabriskie Point badlands. You can have a lot of fun with a camera at Death Valley. This was a good time of year to be there, too.

Artist’s Palette

Artist’s Palette. There are different elements present in these mountains, which provide an array of color.

From there it was on to Artist’s Palette and then Badwater Basin.  Artist’s Palette is a on a road that cuts off of Badwater Basin Road.  The name is based on the fact that the hills in that area are multicolored.  I plan to do another blog in the near future just on Artist’s Palette and the geology that gives the place its many hues.

PhotoShop, artificial intelligence, fake lightning, and Artist’s Palette.

You might be wondering about the photo at the very top of this blog (I repeated here so you wouldn’t have to scroll up).  No, I didn’t just happen to trip the D810 Nikon’s shutter when lightning struck.  This is the same photograph of Artist’s Palette two pics up, but I had a little fun with a c0uple of PhotoShop features.  I used the program’s artificial intelligence selection feature to select the sky (which, as you can see from the earlier photo was nice and sunny), and then I told PhotoShop to replace the sky with dark clouds and lightning.  PhotoShop gave me three options; I selected the one you see here.  What’s kind of cool is that it also shaded the mountains a bit, as they would appear under a dark and cloudy sky.  I’m still on the fence on this topic of artificial intelligence and its uses.  I’d prefer just plain old actual intelligence in more of my fellow mammals, but hey, I’m a grumpy old man who likes to shout at the clouds.  What’s nice is now I can use AI to make the clouds appear whenever I want to.

Badwater Basin

After Artist’s Palette, we were back on Badwater Basin Road, headed south to Badwater Basin.  Death Valley, as most folks know, is below sea level.  As you ride through different parts of Death Valley, there are signs showing how far you are below sea level.  It’s cool.  Badwater Basin is the lowest of the low at 282 feet below sea level.

Looking up from Badwater Basin at the mountains to the east. Our location was 282 feet below sea level.
Fellow tourists walking out into Death Valley’s Badwater Basin.

We had a lot of rain in southern California this winter, and in Death Valley, that resulted Badwater Basin being submerged.  There was enough a couple of weeks before our visit that the National Park Service allowed kayaking in Badwater Basin.  By the time of our visit, though, the Park authorities had put a lid on that.  There was still water present, but it had receded enough that people would have to walk through the muck at the edges, which would damage the area.  It’s too bad; a photo of folks kayaking in Badwater Basin would have been cool.

One of the nice things about traveling to places like Death Valley is that you meet people from all over the world.  We had a nice conversation with a young guy from Beijing who was an exchange student in the Cal State system.  I asked where he was from and he was hesitant to tell me at first, which I chalked up to nervousness induced by the tense(r) situation between the US and Chinese governments.  I told him about our travels through China and that broke the ice.  He was impressed.

Sue and I hamming it up with the cameras. The guy next to her is the young man from China mentioned above.

When you stand at the edge of Badwater Basin, there are mountains to the left and mountains to the right.   I took nine photos and stitched them together in PhotoShop, just like I did for the Dante’s View panorama above.  If you click on the photo below, it will open a larger version, which gives a small hint at the grandeur of the Badwater Basin vantage point.

Go ahead…make my day: Click on this photo.

Ashford Mill Ruins

There’s not much to the Ashford Mill Ruins.  It’s the shell of a building that processed gold prior to shipment out of Death Valley.  It was on the road back to Shoshone, so we stopped to grab a few photos.

All you ever wanted to know about the Ashford Mill ruins.
What’s left of the Ashford Mill. Working here in the summer must have been brutal.

We wrapped up our ride through Death Valley late in the day, continuing south on Badwater Basin Road and then east as it became Highway 178.  It was back to Shoshone for us, with dinner that night in Tecopa Springs.  I’ll tell you more about that hopping locale in the next blog.

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A Recap: Previous Death Valley Visits

By Joe Berk

As I mentioned in a recent blog, Sue and I recently spent a couple of days in Death Valley.  I love the place.  I lived in California for 30+ years before I ever made the trip out there on my KLR 650, and since then, I’ve been back several times.  Here’s a short recap of those previous visits.

The Teutonic Twins Run

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My KLR in Death Valley on that first visit. I loved my KLR; it was a great motorcycle.
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Good buddy Dennis, who won the chili-eating contest at Brown’s BMW.

That first ride on the KLR 650 didn’t just happen because I decided to finally get out there to see the hottest place on the planet.  It came about because the guys at Brown BMW had a chili cookoff and eating contest followed by a two-day ride to Death Valley.  If it hadn’t been for that, I wouldn’t have made it out there.  I was the lone KLR rider; all the other guys were on big BMW twins.   I’d ridden with those guys before and they were too fast for me.  Nope, I was happy as a clam poking along on my 650cc single.  I left right after the chili cookoff because I planned to meander along through other parts of the Mojave before spending the night in Baker, which was to be our jumping off point the next morning.   It was fun, that ride out to Baker was.  Just me and the KLR.   I explored the desert around Kelbaker (southeast of Baker) and the old train depot there.

The next morning, we all had breakfast at the Mad Greek (a Baker and southern California icon), and then rolled out on California State Route 127 to the lower end of Death Valley.  That’s a good highway that cuts through the desert.  There’s nothing else out there, and the Teutonic twin crowd quickly left me in the dust.  They were running well over 100 mph; the KLR might touch 100 on a good day.  But I didn’t need to run at those speeds that day.  I was enjoying the ride.

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The charcoal kilns in Death Valley, I’m sure glad I didn’t skip seeing them on that first Death Valley foray.

When I left Death Valley on that first trip, I left through the northwestern part to pick up the 395 back down to southern California.  That was a good thing.  I saw a sign for Wildrose Canyon Road and another sign for the charcoal kilns pointing down a dirt road.  I was by myself and I was in no hurry.  I didn’t have any idea what the charcoal kilns were all about, but I was interested in learning more.  I took that road, and I’m glad I did.  Every time I’ve been in Death Valley since that first trip, the road to the charcoal kilns was closed, including on this my recent trip.  If you are ever out there and the road is open, you might consider seeing them.   The kilns are interesting, and Wildrose Canyon Road (as the name suggests) is a beautiful ride.

The Hell’s Loop Endurance Run

Following Arlene and TK on 150cc California Scooters into Death Valley.

Another ride in was when good buddy TK, good buddy Arlene, and I rode in the Hell’s Loop endurance rally on the 150cc California Scooters.  That was a challenging day.  We rode 400 miles into and through Death Valley and then returned to Barstow.  It was cold and the hardtail CSC 150 beat me up, but it was fun.  That little 150 never missed a beat.

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We had lunch at the Furnace Creek Inn, and shortly before turning off the road, we saw this guy. He is obviously well fed.
As soon as we sat down for lunch at the Furnace Creek Inn, this guy landed a couple feet away. We had just seen the coyote. I asked the roadrunner if he owned anything made by Acme, or if he was being chased by old Wiley. He responded with but two words: Beep Beep.

My next Death Valley adventure was a photo safari with Sue.  We did that one in my Subie CrossTrek in a single day.  It was a long day, but the photo ops did not disappoint.  What was kind of cool about that trip is that when we rode through Badwater Basin, we saw a coyote loping along the road headed north, and a short while later when we stopped at the Furnace Creek Inn, a roadrunner landed right next to us as we enjoyed lunch on the patio.  Was the roadrunner running from the coyote? Cue in the Warner Brothers: Beep beep!

The Destinations Deal Tour

The Destinations Deal crew overlooking Death Valley from Dante’s View. We covered a lot of territory on that trip.

A few years ago we rode through Death Valley on RX3 motorcycles.  That was part of a promotion we ran when I was working with CSC.  We took a half dozen riders through a handful of southwestern states, and Death Valley was the last of several national park visits.  It’s where I first met Orlando and his wife Velma.   Joe Gresh was on that ride, too.  It was fun.

The “My Sister Eileen” Trip

A 20-mule-team borax train.
Just like the theatrical title: My sister Eileen. We had a great time on that trip.

After the Destinations Deal run, Sue and I and my sister Eileen had a road trip through California and Nevada, with a run down the 395 through a major league snowstorm.  We went through Death Valley the next day (the snowstorm had ended) and it was awesome.  I didn’t do a blog on that Death Valley visit (I have no idea why), but trust me on this:  Like all trips to and through Death Valley, it was awesome.

That gets me caught up on my prior Death Valley visits.   If you want to see more photos and read more about those earlier visits, here are the links:

Watch for a series of Death Valley blogs.  The first will be about our most recent visit, and then I’ll post blogs about Death Valley history, Death Valley geology, things to do around Death Valley, Shoshone, nearby Red Rock Canyon National Park, and maybe more.   Stay tuned.

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The End Of An Era: RX3 Production Ends

By Joe Berk

Zongshen ended production of its iconic RX3 motorcycle and CSC sold the last of its RX3 inventory. I was tangentially involved in bringing the RX3 to America and I had a ton of fun on that motorcycle.  Knowing that the RX3 is no longer in production is like hearing an old friend has passed away.  In the end, the S-curve prevails for all of us, I guess.  But it still hurts.  The RX3 was and still is a great motorcycle.

An early clay mockup of what would become the RX3 in Zongshen’s Advanced Design center.

According to my sources in Chongqing, Zongshen first started thinking about a 250cc offroad and adventure touring motorcycle in 2010.  Engineering development took about two years (excluding the engine).  China’s initial and traditional 250cc was based on a Honda CG125 air-cooled engine, which evolved into 150cc, 200cc, and 250cc variants (the 250cc CG engine was actually 223cc; it is the engine that powers CSC’s current TT 250). The CG-based variants didn’t have the performance Zongshen wanted for its new adventure touring motorcycle, and that led Zongshen to develop a 250cc water-cooled, four-valve engine for Megelli in Italy.  It went into the Zongshen NC250 motorcycle.  This engine also went into the RX3.

Yours truly with former Sears president and CSC advisor Carl Mungenast on Glendora Ridge Road. I rode the CSC 150 Mustang replica in this photo to Cabo San Lucas and back.

For CSC, the Zongshen connection started with a search for a larger CSC 150 engine.  The CSC 150 was the Mustang replica Steve Seidner designed and manufactured in 2009.  I was already in China for another client, and it was only an hour flight from Guangzhou to Chonqging for the initial visit to Zongshen.  To make a long story slightly less long, CSC started purchasing the Zongshen 250cc engines for the little Mustangs.  I think most of the folks who bought those Mustangs really didn’t care if it was a 150 or a 250.  Both were capable bikes; my friends and I rode the 150cc version to Cabo and back.  It was the 250cc Mustang engine that established the relationship between CSC and Zongshen, though, and that was a good thing.

When CSC’s Steve Seidner noticed an illustration of the RX3 on the Zongshen website, he immediately recognized the RX3 sales potential in the United States.   Steve ordered three bikes for evaluation and he started the U.S. certification process.  Steve and I did a 350-mile ride on two of those bikes through the southern California desert and we both thought they were great.

Showing the Zongshen execs in Chongqing possibilities for a ride in America. The Chinese sponsored the Western America Adventure Ride as a result of that discussion. It was awesome and the bikes performed magnificently.

Zongshen was not targeting the U.S. market when they developed the RX3; they thought the U.S. market had different requirements and consumer preferences.   The initial RX3 design did not meet U.S. Department of Transportation lighting and other requirements. It was back to China for me to help set up the specs for the CSC RX3 and the initial order.

On the Western America Adventure Ride, we rode from southern California to Mt. Rushmore, back to the Pacific across the top of America, and down the Pacific Coast to return to Azusa. Here King Kong, Leonard, Hugo, and Tso emulate the American presidents at Mt. Rushmore.

On that early visit, the Chinese told me they wanted to ride in America.  They sent over a dozen bikes and as many riders, and we had an amazing 5,000-mile adventure we called the Western America Adventure Ride.  Baja John planned the itinerary and mapped out the entire ride; we even had special decals with our route outlined made up for the bikes.  We let the media know about it and it was on this ride that I first met Joe Gresh, who wrote the “Cranked” column for Motorcyclist magazine.  I made a lot of good friends on that trip.  After the trip through the American Southwest, Zongshen invited Gresh and me on a ride around China, and after that, I was invited by AKT on a ride through the Andes Mountains in Colombia.

In Medicine Bow, Wyoming, on the Western America Adventure Ride. Two Colombians also participated, which resulted in an invitation to ride in Colombia.
On the road in the Andes Mountains. The sign says the elevation is 3950 meters (that’s 13,000 feet above sea level).
Joe Gresh and I gladiating near Liqian, China. The China ride was the adventure of a lifetime.

At CSC, we had a lot of discussions on the initial marketing approach.  We were looking at a $50,000 to $100,000 hit for an advertising campaign.  Maureen Seidner, the chief marketing strategist for CSC and co-owner with Steve, had a better idea:  Sell the bikes at a loss initially, get them out in the market, and let the word spread naturally.  We knew the price would stabilize somewhere above $4K; Steve’s concept was to sell the bike for $2995.  Maureen had an even better idea.  $2995 sounded like we were just futzing the number to get it below $3K; Maureen said let’s make it $2895 for the first shipment instead.  I wrote a CSC blog about the RX3 and CSC’s plans to import the bike.  When I hit the Publish button on WordPress for that blog, the phone rang literally two minutes later and I took the first order from a guy in Alaska.  Sales took off with CSC’s introductory “Don’t Miss The Boat” marketing program.

I wrote another CSC blog a week later saying that I was eager to get my RX3 and ride it through Baja.  I thought then (and I still think now) that the RX3 is the perfect bike for Baja.  The bike does 80mph, it gets 70mpg, it has a 4-gallon gas tank, and everything you needed on an ADV touring machine was already there:  A skid plate, good range, good speeds, a six-speed gearbox, a comfortable ride, the ability to ride on dirt roads, panniers, a top case, and more.  We started getting calls from folks wanting to ride with me in Baja, and the orders continued to pile in.   That resulted in our doing an annual run through Baja for RX3 owners.  We didn’t charge anything for the Baja trips.  It was a hell of a deal that continued for the next four or five years.  I had a lot of fun on those trips and we sold a lot of bikes as a result.

The Western America Adventure Riders in Arizona. This photo is prominently displayed in the Zongshen main office building lobby.  That’s Baja John in front; he did nearly all the work organizing the ride.

CSC’s enthusiasm surrounding the RX3, the CSC company rides, and CSC’s online presence did a lot to promote the RX3 worldwide, and I know Zongshen recognized that.  I visited the Zongshen campus in Chongqing several times.  One of the best parts of any Zongshen visit for me was entering their headquarters, where a 10-foot-wide photo of the Western America Adventure Ride participants in Arizona’s red rock country dominated the lobby.

The RX3 was controversial for some.  RX3 owners loved the bike.  A few others found reasons to hate it, mostly centering around the engine size and the fact that the bike came from China.  I spent a lot of time responding to negative Internet comments until I realized that the haters were broken people, there was no reasoning with them, and none were ever actually going to buy the motorcycle anyway.  These were people who got their rocks off by throwing rocks at others.

When RX3 production ended recently, I contacted one of my friends at Zongshen and I thought you might enjoy some of what he told me.  Zongshen sold 74,100 RX3 motorcycles (35,000 in China; the rest went to other countries including Mexico, Colombia, other South American countries, Singapore, Turkey, and the United States).  Colombia alone purchased 6000 units in kit form and assembled their bikes in Medellin.  I watched RX3 motorcycles being built in the Zongshen plant in Chongqing; I was also in the AKT factory in Colombia and I saw the RS3 (the carbureted version of the RX3) being built there.  Ultimately, RX3 demand dropped off, but 74,100 motorcycles is not a number to sneeze at.  The RX3 greatly exceeded Zongshen’s expectations and their initial marketing forecasts, especially in overseas markets.  CSC had a lot to do with that success, and playing a minor role in that endeavor has been one of the high points of my life.

The CSC 650cc RX6 twin cylinder motorcycle. The Chinese motorcycle industry is moving to larger displacement bikes.

Chinese motorcycle companies today are emphasizing larger bikes.  We’ve seen that here with the CSC RX4, the 400cc twins, and the 650cc RX6.  I’ve ridden all those bikes and they are great.  I like larger bikes, but I still think a 250cc motorcycle is the perfect size for real world adventure riding.  I think the emphasis on larger bikes and the decision to drop the RX3 is a mistake, but I haven’t sold millions of motorcycles (and Zongshen, with CSC’s help, has).

That photo you see above at the top of this blog?  It’s good buddy Orlando and his wife Velma riding their RX3 up to Dante’s View in Death Valley National Park.  Orlando thinks blue is the fastest color, but I know orange is.  Sue and I recently visited Death Valley again; watch for the ride reports here on the ExNotes blog.

Visit the CSC website here.

I’ve written several books about the adventures described above.  You can order them here.

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Tongariro Crossing, Tongariro National Park, New Zealand

By Mike Huber

The Tongariro Crossing in New Zealand is touted as one of the world’s best day hikes. This obviously meant it was a hike I had to tackle.  The crossing is 19.4 kilometers (11.64 miles) across an active volcano, and it includes a LOT of stairs, both up and down.  Having not been hiking in several months, this was the first time I was actually questioning my physical ability. I don’t think it comes from age as much as hard landings from falling out of airplanes.  Either way, it’s the Number 1 hike on Earth so it really needed to be checked off my list.

As with all mountains, the weather is constantly changing and this mountain would prove no different.  The previous day the hikes were cancelled due to heavy winds.  Upon waking up at 0400 it was a relief to learn that the shuttles would be running that day. My campsite was just outside the town of National Park and was right along the shuttle path for a 0545 pickup and a 30-minute drive to the trailhead.

The hike started with misty clouds which added to the already stunning mountain scenery, and the winds, well they were blowing hard. I had purposely loaded my day pack heavy with extra everything in the event I’d need it.  That was smart. By day’s end I had used almost everything I brought.  This was comforting since I thought I had over packed.

The first five kilometers weren’t bad except for the brutal winds, which were a constant battle. It got to the point that when the winds subsided I’d almost fall down due to leaning in so much.  Once that five kilometers were wrapping up, there were several posted signs that said “If you aren’t feeling well, now is a great time to turn back, there is no shame in that.”  I used those signs as motivation to continue.

Once reaching the summit, it was obvious the crown jewel of the hike would not be shining as brightly as it had been in the photos.  There were two bright neon emerald green lakes that in the sun just glowed; however, with the weather having turned so quickly it was nothing more than a dull blue barely visible through the cloud bank.  The winds were still howling from every direction.  There was hardly even time to snap a few photos before I decided it was time to descend into the next crater for some shelter and to take a break and eat a snack. The only portion that remained was the never-ending descent filled with many more steps.

Overall, it was a magnificent day with great views and conversation with fellow hikers from all over the world. My finish time, not that it matters, was just over 6 hours.  This seemed admirable as the estimated time for most was between 6 and 8 hours.  The remainder of the day was spent at my campsite swimming in my own personal grotto behind my tent, talking with others that hiked it (or would in the morning), consuming ibuprofen, and feeling semi accomplished now that this hike was now completed.

Read the Mike Huber New Zealand posts here:

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Top 10 California Motorcycle Roads: Part 1

By Mike Huber

California is beautiful from every aspect, but once you climb on a motorcycle and get the full experience of this gorgeous state you’ll realize it is difficult to find a place with more riding diversity. From the northern redwoods to the people-watching along Venice beach to the eastern deserts and right up to the Sierras. California is a destination where you’ll want to spend time.  And when I say time, I mean having the ability to savor each region and each road.

Garberville to Fort Bragg

Rated 5 Wheelies

Route Details. This is a beautiful road with twisties that rival the famous Tail of the Dragon in North Carolina, with much more diversity due to the forest and ocean views.

    • Start and Finish Points: Garberville to Ft. Bragg
    • Distance: 68 miles
    • Ride Time / Recommended Time: 3-4 hours
    • Recommended Time of Year: May-Oct
    • Main Points of Interest(s): The stretch from Leggett to Rockport
    • Cautions / Dangers: Minimal but possible sand/rocks on road in mountain twisties
    • Important Contact Numbers  CHP (Ukiah) 707- 467-4420

Road Description. I chose this route as my #1 in California due to the technical street riding, lack of traffic, and scenery. This route also has plenty of classic Americana stops along the way that even for this short ride will add to the enrichment of this route. It is an out of this world experience and you will feel at times as if you are in Star Wars zooming through Endor on a speeder. Once you adapt to that environment you are thrust out of the forest and into views of the vast openness of the mighty Pacific Ocean. It is hard to achieve a greater riding experience from every aspect over such a short distance.

Points of Interest. Garberville is a wonderful place to start as it is a quaint little hidden California town with wonderful people. The people are down to earth and easy to talk with as you consume a cold beverage or lunch while comparing tales from the road. There aren’t a lot of restaurants or stores in Garberville but the two I recommend are:

    • The Blue Room (747 Redwood Drive in Garberville, a great place for a drink/lunch/dinner)
    • The Eel Café (801 Redwood Drive, which offers breakfast and lunch sandwiches)

Another must see spot is the Drive Thru Tree Park for an unforgettable experience and great photo opportunities.  Make sure you drive your moto through the Redwood tree.

Fort Bragg is larger compared to Garberville and offers more choices for nightlife and entertainment.   Two of my favorites are:

    • The Tip Top Lounge, a great place to stop after riding all day for a beer and a solid burge
    • The Piaci Pub & Pizzaria for great pizzas and an environment conducive to unwinding

Where to Stay/Camp. Both Garberville and Fort Bragg offer numerous hotels and camping spots, and even though this is a short ride I highly recommend making this trip an overnighter to fully absorb the culture of this part of the state and its beauty.  These are my favorite spots:

Santa Monica to Oxnard on the Pacific Coast Highway

Rated 5 Wheelies

Route Details. This is the quintessential California beach road with exhilarating sweeping corners that introduce a new view of the Pacific Ocean as you lean through each turn.

    • Start and Finish Points: Santa Monica to Oxnard
    • Distance: 50 miles
    • Ride Time/Recommended Time: 3 to 4 hours
    • Recommended Time of Year: April to November
    • Main Points Of Interest: Beaches along the route
    • Cautions / Dangers: Minimal, but possible sand near beaches
    • Important Contact Number: CHP (Woodland Hills) 818-888-0980

Road Description. As far as a California dream road, this is the one. Riding it early morning can be the best time due to low traffic and the ability to taste the salt from the Pacific Ocean as you wind northbound. There are plenty of beaches and overlooks to stop at. This really allows yourself to fully absorb the beauty of this part of California.

Points of Interest. Santa Monica is a great starting (or ending) point and you can walk out to the pier or rent bicycles to ride the boardwalk down to Venice Beach which will allow for some outstanding people watching and opportunities to engage in tourist attractions along the way. As you travel north from Santa Monica there are no shortage of quaint restaurants and shops along PCH1 to visit and relax. This is a road that feels as though it’s designed for a leisurely ride in order to fully experience the sights and sounds while on two wheels. A classic place to get some seafood is Neptune’s Net right along the Pacific Coast Highway for great seafood and wonderful people.  If time allows, a worthwhile day can be spent visiting Channel Islands National Park.

Where to Stay/Camp. Camping is limited along this route but Point Mugu State Park is a great place for beach camping. Hotels are plentiful but expensive in both Santa Monica and Oxnard.

Highway 120 and Tioga Pass

Rated 5 Wheelies

Route Details. This is one of the best roads in California.  It runs through Yosemite National Park and over intense switchbacks to Tioga Pass, where you will feel as though you are on top of the world (at almost 10,000 feet elevation, that isn’t too far from the truth). There are minimal fuel stops along this way so make sure you are fueled up.

    • Start and Finish Points: Groveland to Lee Vining
    • Distance: 92 miles
    • Ride Time / Recommended Time: 4 to 6 hours
    • Recommended Time of Year: May-September
    • Main Points Of Interest: Yosemite National Park and Tioga Pass (elevation 9,943 feet)
    • Cautions/Dangers: Wildlife throughout the passes, loose rocks and dirt on some mountain passes
    • Important Contact Number: CHP (Bridgeport) 760-932-7995

Road Description. Some incredible scenery as you pass through Yosemite National Park and even more breathtaking as you lean into some of the tightest switchbacks you can ever hope to encounter with serious drop offs so be sure to not get too caught up in the scenery and maintain focus on the road.

Points of Interest. Although this area of California is not as populated as some of the others there are plenty of places to stop and eat. With Yosemite National Park as the centerpiece of this ride there is a plethora of beauty and experiences to be had.  My favorites are:

Where to Stay/Camp. There are numerous inns, hotels, and quaint bed and breakfasts along this route. All the ones I experienced have been wonderful experiences. Here are two of my favorites on each side of the route, and the camping opportunities within Yosemite.

    • Lakeview Lodge in Lee Vining is a clean safe place to stay with modest rates and parking for your motorcycles
    • Yosemite National Park for camping, where reservations are strongly recommended
    • The Sonora Inn in Groveland is another winner both from a price standpoint and for the quality and cleanliness of the rooms

Cotton Springs Road to Joshua Tree

Rated 4.5 Wheelies

Route Details. A short but deeply satisfying route that winds through Joshua Tree National Park. No services along this way so be sure you fill your tank either east on I-10 at the Chevron Station or in the town of Joshua Tree (depending on which way you are traveling).  Ensure you have water and are hydrated due to excessive heat during hotter times of the year.

    • Start and Finish Points: Exit 173 off I-10 to Joshua Tree
    • Distance: 94 miles
    • Ride Time/Recommended Time: 4 to 6 hours
    • Recommended Time of Year: September to November, February to May
    • Main Point Of Interest(s): Joshua Tree National Park
    • Cautions/Dangers: Loose rocks/dirt on some corners
    • Important Contact Number: CHP (29 Palms) 760-366-3707

Road Description. Beautiful desert and mountain views. In spring there are fields of wildflowers that really show how much life is in the fragile ecosystem of Joshua Tree. The roads are in excellent condition and encompass fun sweeping corners then will open up with straightaways that provide majestic vistas of the region.

Points of Interest. This is a desolate road, which is great for riders looking to just check out of the crowds and embrace riding.  As previously stated there are no gas stations in the park so ensure you fill up prior to entering it.

    • Chevron off Exit 173 along Interstate 10 (62450 Chiriaco Road, Chiriaco Summit, California 92201)
    • General Patton Museum is next to the gas station and worth a visit
    • In included the added mileage here through Joshua Tree National Park to allow you to fully explore the park (including the ride out and back to Keys View
    • For a great diner to fuel up before or after your ride try the Country Kitchen restaurant

Where to Stay/Camp. With Joshua Tree National Park being so desolate, camping there is a magical experience. On a clear night you can see the stars and planets like nowhere else. The campgrounds tend to fill up during peak seasons so be sure to reserve a campsite prior to your trip. As far as hotels go, both the town of Twenty Nine Palms and Joshua Tree have numerous hotels that are perfect for unwinding after the ride.

Mulholland Highway

Rated 4 Wheelies

Route Details. This is a 50-mile route that is beyond filled with some serious mountain switchbacks. This is an incredibly intense road that to me rivals the Tail of the Dragon in NC. The switchbacks just don’t end as you climb through the Santa Monica Mountains and then spit out onto Highway 1 and views of the Pacific Ocean.  It is a motorcyclist’s dream ride.

    • Start and Finish Points: Alizondo Drive Park to El Matador Beach
    • Distance: 50 miles
    • Ride Time / Recommended Time: 2 to 4 hours
    • Recommended Time of Year: Year round
    • Main Point Of Interest(s): The Rock Shop
    • Cautions / Dangers: Speed Traps
    • Important Contact Number: CHP (Woodland Hills) 818-888-0980

Road Description. For being so near to Los Angeles this road is a real getaway without having to travel far. The quality of the road is perfection and something that people from all over the LA area flock to. For this reason be cautious with your speed as there are several places they set up speed traps, however, quite often fellow riders will park ahead of these speed traps and provide you a warning. If you are looking at getting rid of the chicken strips on your tires this is definitely the road where you can accomplish that.

Points of Interest. This road has minimal places to stop along the way, but with all these switchbacks why would you want to stop. There is one famous attraction that is a must do as you traverse these mountain roads, and it is The Rock Store. It is a popular place for riders of all types to stop and get a sandwich and a drink. Jay Leno is often seen here talking shop with the riders and being social with others riding this fantastic road.

Where to Stay/Camp. With this ride being so close to the city there are minimal camping options. Hotels are numerous on both sides of this ride however. There are plenty of canyon roads off the main highway that are worth exploring, so even though this is a shorter ride you can absolutely make a full day out of this area. This will allow you time to fully embrace the roads and fellow riders along the way.  My favorite place to camp is the Decker Canyon Camp.

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The Top Five Southern Colorado Motorcycle Roads

By Mike Huber

As an avid motorcyclist it’s easy to appreciate the beauty in each state and for many riders discovering amazing roads that many would overlook can become second nature to us.  Some might even say it’s an art form.  Throughout this vast and beautiful country called the United States of America we are fortunate enough to have a plethora of both paved and dirt roads that are meant to be sought out like the Ark of the Covenant.  These roads are meant to be experienced intimately the only way they can be, on two wheels. Experiencing them on a motorcycle can become a thirst that is never quenched, and although each state has its own unique characteristics, ultimately some will stand out more than others. One state that has that effect for me is Colorado.

Colorado is one of those states that as soon as you ride past the “Welcome to Colorful Colorado” sign the roads seem to present themselves to you like a feast on a golden platter with an endless amount of wine.   The rides we will review can each be completed in one or two days and are best ridden between late April and early October.  To help with prioritization since there are so many incredible rides we have developed a very complex mathematical rating system of 1 to 5 wheelies (5 being the highest).  The rating uses the following criteria:

    • Road conditions
    • Diversity of riding options
    • Activities along the route
    • Abilities to disperse camp/hotel access
    • Scenery

Route 550:  The Million Dollar Highway

Rated 5 Wheelies

Road Description.  This loop may be one of the greatest roads in all of North America. The road is paved and in immaculate condition.  It combines some of the tightest switchbacks one can expect to experience on a motorcycle. The full route per the map is ~355 miles and can be done in 1 day, but highly recommend taking at least 2-4 to fully experience and immerse yourself in this beautiful part of the country.  There are endless forest roads off 550 to get your fill of dirt riding littered with an infinite amount of beautiful dispersed campsites. Also some wonderful old mining towns rich with history, hiking, restaurants, hotels, and hot springs.

Points of Interest.  There’s no shortage of amazing places to stop along this road.  Below is a small list of the places you should not miss along this route.

    • Silverton is a great little mining town with wonderful people.  It’s a perfect place to load up on supplies if you are camping.  You can warm up after getting some miles in at the Brown Bear Café.
    • Ouray is a beautiful mountain town with several hikes to waterfalls, hot springs, and some wonderful restaurants. My favorite is the Ouray Brewery.
    • Rico is a really tiny town which consists of a great hotel and bar called the Enterprise Bar and Grill, with wonderful people, great food and cold beer.

Where to Stay/Camp.  There is an immense amount of national forest land that can be used to camp on along this loop.  Really any dirt road you ride down will guide you to an epic campsite next to a creek. This makes for a relaxing post ride time to wind down in a hammock, while having a refreshing beverage. The towns of Silverton and Ouray have several hotels that are right in the heart of the town and a short walk to tourist activities and restaurants.

Off-Roading.  There is an endless amount of dirt roads to find here, this goes from flat well-groomed forest roads to find a campsite to the technical challenging mountain passes like Engineer or Imogene Pass (which I have not done due to the size of my GS1200 and conservative riding style).

Out of so many outstanding rides in the state of Colorado, the Million Dollar Highway should be on the top of any list.  This road and area really earn that 5 Wheelie rating due to exceeding each standard for riders of all ability levels. There are so many sights to see along this route that you will never tire of absorbing the beauty that surrounds you in this part of the state. If you are fortunate enough to have the time, doing the loop in reverse can be a great way to add a few more days to your adventure.

Mesa Verde National Park

Rated 5 Wheelies

Road Description.  As soon as you enter Mesa Verde National Park the road begins screaming up in elevation with some incredible views overlooking the valley below you will almost have a sense of vertigo overcome you.  What is wonderful about this feeling as it goes on and on as you travel through the park.  Although the distance from the park entrance to the furthest point is only 28 miles, those miles are filled with numerous overlooks and pullouts that can make this seemingly short ride take 2-3 days.  This is especially true if you are taking in the hikes along the way.  The only piece of concern for this ride is the numerous road snakes in some areas of this ride. Otherwise its full enjoyment as you have a 360 view of the valleys below that outstretch clear into Utah, New Mexico, and Arizona.

Points of Interest.  Since this is a National Park there are ample amounts of short hikes and tours to break up the day(s) you spend in this magical location. A few of the more popular ones are outlined below:

    • The Cliff Palace requires purchasing a tour ticket at Park Visitor Center, but even without one you can walk to the overlook to get a spectacular view of the houses the Hopi built into the cliffs which are all but hidden except from this vantage point.
    • The Balcony House also requires a tour ticket but is well worth it as you can walk through the ruins and really get a sense of the
    • The Knife’s Edge Hike is a great 2-mile hike with little elevation next to Morefield Campground that has incredible sunset views, which enable the rocks to really light up and glow.

Where to Stay/Camp.  Morefield Campground- This is the only campground in the park so making reservations ahead of time is recommended. It is one of the better National Park campgrounds I have stayed at and includes free showers, great Wi-Fi from most campsites (antennas are off the bathrooms), and a launderette, gas, and fully stocked store for all your camping and souvenir needs. There are also several wonderful hiking trails right next to the campground.

Off-Roading.  This is one of the drawbacks of a National Park, as there is no off-roading permitted within the park boundaries.  The beauty and activities from hiking and riding makes up for this shortcoming.

Route 65: Grand Mesa Scenic Byway

Rated 5 Wheelies

Road Description.  Yet another beautiful Colorado mountain road filled with switchbacks that rise in elevation and bring you to over 10,000 feet up and onto the World’s largest Mesa. There are several pullouts along this route to take in the views, but no gas stations from Cedaredge to Mesa (50 miles, but can be close to 100 miles if you are doing the off-road portion) plan accordingly.

Points of Interest. The main point of interest the mesa itself and the amazing views, alpine lakes, dispersed camping, and off-roading.

Where to Stay/Camp. Dispersed camping is plentiful along Rte125 where you can get a lakeside campsite with little issue and make it your own paradise for the evening as you watch the sunset glistening off one of the many alpine lakes. There are also plenty of campgrounds along this way if you are looking for less primitive camping.  Hotels are scattered along this route in the towns of Delta, Mesa, or driving to up Grand Junction for a greater variety of lodging.

Off-Roading.  Route 125 Surface Creek Road is a great 15-mile loop.  This road has you experience the mesa while passing crystal clear alpine lakes with numerous dispersed camping areas.  There is also a 10-mile dirt road in great condition to visit the Lands’ End Observatory. The views off the mesa looking down on the plateau can allow you to see into Utah on a clear day with awe inspiring views.

Route 141: Grand Junction to Naturita

Rated 4.5 Wheelies

Road Description.  This is a low elevation beautifully paved road that is 105 miles long.  This road will have you leaning your ride until you feel the mist kissing your windshield from Dolores River as you pass amazing rust colored mesas that stretch into the sky and rival that of Monument Valley. The road has very little traffic which will allow you to enjoy some solitude as you embrace the scenery you ride through. The only reason this route is rated as 4.5 is the lack of amenities.

Points of Interest.  This road is in quite a desolate area, outside the tiny town of Gateway.  Gateway Canyons General Store is owned and run by the preacher of the church next door to it.  This is the only place to gas up between Grand Junction and Naturita so be sure to check your fuel levels.

Where to Stay/Camp.  Dispersed camping here is plentiful but mainly in one area just south of Grand Junction, Divide Road. This road is a steep switchback dirt road that connects to numerous other roads which are great fun exploring for campsites to settle down in.  There are numerous dispersed sites with beautiful views over the canyon in which you can see the Dolores River running far beneath you.

Off-Roading.  Divide Road also encompasses numerous off-roading opportunities that sprawl out across this mesa.  This is a perfect place to explore for that unique dispersed campsite while hitting some fun dirt to enhance your day.  There are however areas of slippery clay, so if it is raining it can become slick in portions of this road.

Routes 160 and 149: Pagosa Springs to Lake City

Rated 4 Wheelies

Road Description.  This route consists of 45 miles of a four-lane highway on Route 160 that will have you summit at over 10,000 feet.  The road will then drop you into South Fork, Colorado.  This is where you will turn left onto Route 149.  Route 149 will quickly whittle down to a tighter and quieter road for the next 75 miles, which are filled with mountain passes. South Fork is the only town between these areas so make sure you gas up and grab lunch before heading onto the second part of this amazing road.  The next portion will have you speeding across lower elevation prairies and then climbing high into the mountain tundra that will resemble something from another planet before descending into Lake City.

Points of Interest.  I specifically wanted this trip to begin (or end) in Pagosa Springs so you have an opportunity to experience the hot springs in Pagosa.

Where to Stay/Camp. Throughout the ride there is no shortage of camping in both dispersed and paid locations. In Pagosa there are numerous hotels. I prefer the hotel directly across the street from the spa as it is much more affordable then the spa and in a great location.  For Lake City, the Matterhorn is a beautiful Swiss style motel which will allow you a solid night’s sleep at a great price. It’s a perfect spot to recharge if you are going to take on some of the more challenging off-road portions in Colorado the following day.

Off-Roading.  Lake City is the starting point for some of the more serious off-roading mountain passes, such as a few of the most popular passes including Cinnamon and Engineer.  Both of these passes surpass 12,000 feet.  If you crave technical off-roading challenges with views that can’t be beat, these are the two passes I recommend.

Conclusions

Southern Colorado is a rider’s paradise, and a region that should not be missed for riders of all experience levels. Other avid motorcyclists have also recommended these roads to me, which reinforces my approval for these routes and motivated me to write this comprehensive layout to help others. I hope this breakout has been helpful and serves as a reason to visit Southern Colorado and have the riding experience of a lifetime.

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Medicine Bow, Wyoming

By Joe Berk

We were a swarm of 250cc bees bound for Medicine Bow, Wyoming.   I didn’t know why that excited me and I didn’t know what to expect, but the place sounded romantic.  Not romantic in the sense of female companionship; it was instead the romance of the Old West.  Medicine Bow, Wyoming, and we were headed there on our single-cylinder Zongshen motorcycles.   We had been on the road for a week, showing the American West to our Chinese and Colombian visitors.  It all started on the other side of the world in Chongqing when Zongshen asked if I could take them on a ride though America.

Wow, could I ever.

Susie took this photo as I was showing the Zongshen execs where we might ride in America. The guy on my immediate right is good buddy Fan, who follows the ExNotes blog.

Medicine Bow.   It had a nice ring to it.  I was thinking maybe they had a McDonald’s and we could have lunch there.   I think the reason Medicine Bow sounded so intriguing is I had heard it maybe dozens of times in western movies and television shows.  Medicine Bow was one of the major destinations for cattle drives in the 1800s, where cows boarded trains for their one-way trip east, where they would stop being cows and become steaks.  An average of 2,000 cows shipped out of Medicine Bow every day back then.   That would keep McDonald’s going for a day or two (except there were no McDonald’s in the 1800s).

The very first western novel.

I was surprised when we buzzed in.  Medicine Bow is about five buildings, total, none of them was a McDonald’s, but one was the Virginian Hotel.  It’s the hotel you see in the photo at the top of this blog and as you might imagine there’s a story to it.  You see, back in the day, the first western novel ever was written by a dude named Owen Wister, and the title of his book was The Virginian.  It was later made into a movie.  The story is about a young female schoolteacher who settled in Medicine Bow and two cowboys who vied for her attention.  When the historic hotel was later built in Medicine Bow, what other name could be more appropriate than The Virginian?  And about the name of the town, Medicine Bow?  Legend has it that Native Americans found the best mahogany for making bows (as in bows and arrows) in a bend (a bow) along the Medicine River, which runs through the area.    I can’t make up stuff this good.

I was the designated leader of the Zongshen swarm on this ride. My job was easy.  All the mental heavy lifting and deep thinking fell to good buddy and long-time riding compañero Baja John, who planned our entire 5,000-mile journey through the American West.  John did a hell of a job.  The roads he selected were magnificent and the destinations superb.  It’s also when I first met Joe Gresh, who was on assignment from Motorcyclist magazine to cover our story (more on that in a bit).

Big Joe Gresh, or “Arjiu” as the Chinese called him, on our 5000-mile ride through the American West.

Back to Medicine Bow, the Virginian Hotel, and a few of the photos I grabbed on that ride.  The place is awesome, and the Virginian is where we had lunch.

Lunch at the Virginian. That’s Gresh on the right, and Juan and Gabe (two dudes from AKT Motos in Colombia) on the left. A few months later I rode with Juan in Colombia, another grand adventure.

After lunch, we wandered around the hotel for a bit. It would be fun to spend the night in Medicine Bow, I thought.  Dinner at the hotel and drinks in the bar (as I type this, I can almost hear someone on the piano belting out Buffalo Gal).    I will return some day to check that box.

The lighting isn’t great in this selfie (of sorts). Yours truly on the old D200, Lester, and Mr. Zuo. Lester is a teacher in China. Mr. Zuo owns a motorcycle jacket company in China.
Bison.   We saw a few live ones in the next couple of days.
Who’s a good boy? That’s Baja John and Lester, taking a break after a great lunch at the Virginian Hotel.  Lester came to America as a vegetarian.   That lasted about two days.   He sure enjoyed his hamburger at the Virginian.  He told us he wants to be like Baja John when he grows up.
Yes, there are moose in Medicine Bow, along with mountain lion, bear, elk, deer, and a host of other animals.  Theodore Roosevelt hunted this part of the world.
A Virginian Hotel hallway. I think you can still stay here overnight.
Hotel hallway art.
Even a public telephone.

The Virginian Hotel bar was indeed inviting and I could have spent more time there, but we were on the bikes and my rule is always no booze on the bikes.  I grabbed a few photos.  We had more miles to make that afternoon and more of Wyoming awaited.

The Virginian Hotel bar. It looks like it would be a fun spot to have a beer or three at the end of the day.
Photos and artifacts on one of the Virginian Bar walls.
A mural in the Virginian Hotel bar

The Virginian Hotel owner (who looked like he could have been someone right out of Central Casting) saw our interest in photography and showed us this photograph.   He told me only six or seven copies of it exist.  Spend a minute reading the writing…it is amazing.

There are more than a few interesting characters depicted in this photo.

Medicine Bow was a fun visit, it is a place I would like to see again, and it has a palpable feel of the Old West.  It was a place where we could have stayed longer, but after lunch it was time for Happy Trails and we were on the road again.   I felt like a cowboy, I suppose, swinging my leg over my motorcycle.  Instead of “giddy up” it was a twist of the key and a touch on the starter button; the result was the same as we continued our trek west with Frankie Lane’s Rawhide on repeat in my mind:  Keep rollin’, rollin’ rollin’, keep those motos rollin’…

In a few hours, we’d be riding into the sunset.  Lord, this was a fantastic ride.

Here are a couple of videos you might like.  The first is about Medicine Bow, the second is Joe Gresh’s video covering the ride.  And one more thing…don’t miss Joe Gresh’s magnificent story about our ride in Motorcyclist magazine.

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Four National Parks, One Inspiring Ride, and Fuel for the Open Road

By Bobbie Surber

Embarking on a spontaneous journey this past October to explore multiple national parks, my dependable Triumph Tiger 900 GT Pro (Tippi), and I escaped from an approaching winter. The objective? An inspiring tour encompassing White Sands, Carlsbad Caverns, Guadalupe, and the Petrified Forest National Parks. With an insatiable love for national parks, these scenic wonders often become a focal point during my motorcycle travels. Spending around 60-70 percent of my time on the road, I am drawn to these incredible natural havens.

Starting from Sedona on a crisp fall afternoon, I cruised through Oak Creek Canyon, reveling in the solitary road and the vibrant autumn leaves adorning the red rock landscape. Petrified Forest National Park is a familiar stop with ancient petrified logs and captivating vistas.

I continued through the desolate upper desert plains, making my way to Springerville, Arizona, before the next leg of my adventure.

The next morning’s journey steered me toward Faywood Hot Springs in New Mexico, but boy, was it a wild ride! Wrestling with savage winds that rivaled a cyclone, I stumbled upon a rider down on the road.  As we righted his bike, we ascertained the downed rider was scraped and bruised but fine. My nerves shot, I sought respite from the tempestuous gusts and made a beeline for Alpine, where winds had gone rogue, hitting outrageous gusts of 80 miles per hour. Amid what seemed to be tornado-like chaos, I found solace in the embrace of snug and hospitable Alpine, Arizona.

Rolling into Faywood Hot Springs in New Mexico a day late due to the windstorms, I was greeted by humble cabins and campsites stretching across the desert with views of distant foothills. As Tippi’s tires crunched on the gravel, I found myself in a moment straight out of a motorcycle comedy flick. Decked out head to toe in my riding gear, I sfound myself in a nudist colony!  Out of nowhere two mostly naked gents emerged, strutting towards me to help park my bike. Picture this: two bare souls, one bike, and a dangerous scenario brewing. They helped with the genuine enthusiasm of a nudist biker pit crew, and I could not help but nervously accept. However, my mind raced faster than Tippi’s engine, worrying about potential mishaps—my bike toppling over one of them or an accidental heat encounter with certain sensitive areas. The stakes were high, at least for them, and my concern was off the charts!

With Tippi safely parked (and the naked pit crew miraculously unscathed), I swiftly ditched my gear and clothing for the remainder of the day, joining the affable and entertaining guests at the bathing suit optional pools. Trust me, regaling the encounter turned into a comedic highlight of my adventure, spinning a tale of the night’s shenanigans that truly supported my aforementioned moto flick!

Eager to witness the sunrise and embark on my ride, I packed Tippi.  I anticipated a solar eclipse, but not before a detour to the City of Rocks State Park (a hidden gem a few miles away). Although time allowed only a brief hike and a few photographs, the park’s charm put it on my must-return list.

Continuing my journey, a stop at Hatch, New Mexico, promised a feast of authentic Mexican cuisine renowned for its chili.  It lived up to its reputation as I dove into a plate of green chili smothered enchiladas. But before my feast the anticipation of the eclipse lingered as I parked by the roadside with Tippi and a few fellow travelers, hoping for an unobstructed view. Unfortunately, a thin veil of clouds dampened our expectations, casting a shadow over the anticipated celestial spectacle, although the shifting light added its own atmospheric drama.

The adventure continued as I resumed my ride, following I-25 to I-70 for a two-hour journey leading me to White Sands National Park. Here, nature unveiled a captivating spectacle as I ventured deeper into the park. The landscape transformed into a mesmerizing sand festival, each mile revealing taller and more majestic sand dunes that stretched endlessly to the horizon. The park’s beauty and ethereal ambiance made my farewell bittersweet.

Leaving enchanting White Sands behind, I ventured onward, headed for Cloudcroft, New Mexico, where a charming hostel awaited.  This oasis in the mountains promised a restful evening, a sanctuary after a day filled with unexpected turns and nature’s breathtaking displays. I am a huge fan of hostels while traveling solo, not only for the inexpensive lodging but also for the opportunity to meet with fellow adventurers. Cloudcroft Hostel did not disappoint!  It is labor of love by a transplant named Stephanie, a fellow rider from Germany. The night’s stay even included a house concert with a traveling performer. I drifted off to sleep that night with the thought of returning to this delightful place.

Bright and early the following morning, I embarked on a dual adventure to Carlsbad Caverns and Guadalupe National Park. My first stop was in Carlsbad, where I had a planned visit with a fellow rider.  Parker and I arranged to meet at a historic restaurant.  Meeting this captivating rider in person matched the fascination I felt from afar. Our interaction was brief as I had to rush to make my 1:00 p.m. to the caverns. Negotiating the winding roads with enthusiasm, I navigated to the visitor center while maneuvering through the curves, passing slower vehicles, and arriving on time. The caverns exceeded expectations, and I leisurely explored the most picturesque chambers.

Daylight was fleeing, and I knew I had to rush to Guadalupe National Park before sunset. To my delight, a pleasant surprise awaited me as Parker joined me. Guadalupe, an unassuming jewel of a desert park boasting Texas’s highest peak, instantly captured my heart with its desert sunset over the rugged peaks. The night flew by quickly as I prodded Parker for more tales of his exhilarating riding adventures.  It made this stop an unforgettable highlight.

The following morning greeted me with thoughts swirling about the completion of my four-park tour and the route home. In a moment of whimsy, I yearned to revisit Cloudcroft for another night.  Such impulses are the joys of traveling by bike…logic takes a backseat to wanderlust! Retracing the previous day’s path, I arrived in the afternoon, affording me a chance to explore the historic downtown area.

In a move that defied logic (as is the norm in my travels), I reasoned that it made perfect sense to detour back home through Mesa, Arizona, for my bike’s much-needed service. The return ride, riddled with its own set of challenges, became a tale, featuring unexpected twists and yet another memorable encounter at a unique hot spring.  It’s a story for another time!

As I reflect on my incredible journey filled with unexpected encounters, stunning landscapes, and fellow riders’ camaraderie, the allure of the open road and unpredictability of travel are the true treasures of my motorcycle expeditions. Each detour, unplanned stop, and quirky encounter combined to create a tapestry of unforgettable experiences.  It is what fuels my passion for exploration and two wheel travel. Until the next adventure beckons, I will carry these memories as fuel for the road ahead.

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My Solo Motorcycle Journey from Sedona to Canada: Part IV

By Bobbie Surber

A quick recap: In Part One, I kicked off this solo motorcycle journey on my trusty Triumph Tiger 900 GT Pro, lovingly christened Tippi. As I bid farewell to Sedona, the road promised a majestic odyssey. From the winding bends of the Colorado River to the breathtaking grandeur of Lees Ferry, Marble Canyon, Jacobs Lake, North Grand Canyon National Park, and Zion National Park, each mile etched indelible memories on my soul.   Part Two unveiled the treasures of Bryce Canyon, Capitol Reef, and Great Basin National Parks, along with the legendary Loneliest Highway in America, Highway 50. The roads led me to Lake Tahoe, where I encountered unique wonders and overcame challenges that enriched my adventure.  In Part Three, I entered the landscapes of Yosemite, Kings Canyon, Sequoia, and Lassen Volcanic National Parks. I visited the town of Bigfoot and the Lost Coast. Amidst these joys, there was a bittersweet encounter with my boyfriend, Mike, marking the end of a significant chapter in my life.  Now, let’s continue the ride through northern California and the Oregon coast.

In the embrace of an early summer morning, I stood alone, a solitary figure beside my trusted motorcycle, Tippi. The sun painted the horizon in hues of gold and pink, casting a spell of serenity. This was the moment of bidding farewell to Greg, a friend whose hospitality touched my soul.  The road stretched before me, an endless promise. As I eased Tippi out of Greg’s driveway, it felt as if the entire world held its breath, echoing the emotions that propelled me into this adventure. This journey, forged from the ashes of heartbreak and kindled by an insatiable wanderlust, was poised to unfold a voyage of self-discovery and emotional renewal.

Just the night before, I had embraced a decision steeped in emotional turbulence — a poignant farewell to my boyfriend, Mike. It was a decision marinated in profound sadness and the weight of loss. Despite the heaviness in my heart, I clung to the belief that the open road cradled an undiscovered trove of experiences, encounters, and life lessons. Each mile seemed to hold the promise of a fresh beginning, and as I departed McKinleyville, California on that Sunday morning, the marine mist hung in the air like a wispy veil.  It created a backdrop to my reflections on the past and the enigma of the future. The chill in the air mirrored the swirling mix of emotions within me, signifying the dawn of a new chapter in my solitary adventure.

Surrounded by towering redwoods and glimpsing fleeting vistas of the boundless Pacific Ocean as the last remnants of marine fog dissipated, the morning unfurled in all the splendor I yearned for. We journeyed up the coast, passing through the awe-inspiring realm of Redwood National Park. This marked my tenth rendezvous with a national park in just a month of travel. Each park visit hammered home the vital importance of preserving our public lands, and standing amidst these colossal arboreal titans served as a perpetual reminder of their awe-inspiring grandeur.

Reluctantly, I bid adieu to the towering redwoods as Highway 101 gently steered me slightly inland, ushering me towards Elk Meadow. Here, nature unfolded a spectacle that stole my breath — an assembly of elk, the largest gathering I had ever witnessed. I yielded to the irresistible urge to halt and pay homage to their beauty, immortalizing the moment through the lens of my camera.

After our parting with the majestic elk, I made a brief sojourn in Crescent City, a pause to refuel Tippi and replenish my spirits with a cup of coffee. It was in this picturesque spot that I stumbled upon kindred spirits — two gentlemen on Ducati motorcycles. We shared a common destiny: Canada. While a twinge of envy for their sleek machines grazed my heart, I cherished the chance to engage in a brief yet warm-hearted conversation with fellow travelers.

With renewed zeal, Tippi and I resumed our journey on Highway 101, eager to cross into Oregon, the fifth state to embrace our adventure. We traversed familiar terrain, including the enchanting Harris Beach State Park and Whaleshead Beach in Brookings. While my original goal was Bandon, the unyielding coastal winds encouraged me to pursue the unknown paths that Oregon had hidden.

Coos Bay welcomed us with an uproarious windstorm, a tempestuous force of nature that consistently left me feeling exposed and vulnerable. After a hasty search on Rec.gov, I secured a campsite on the north side of Coos Bay. However, our path to the campground presented a challenge—an encounter with a bridge at the northern edge. Anxiety surged within me as a flashing warning sign taunted me with its “High Wind Alert” and “Overturned Vehicle” messages.

I wish I could recount the crossing of that bridge with calm and composure, but the truth was far from it. My grip on the handlebars was vice-like, my white knuckles bearing testimony to my sheer terror. My aversion to fierce winds reached its zenith, and adrenaline coursed through my veins as I navigated to the other side. Upon reaching the campground, my heart sank as I discovered an RV occupying the very spot I had reserved. The encounter with the RV owner left me frustrated and disheartened, an unfortunate epilogue to the nerve-wracking bridge escapade.

Thankfully, a benevolent camp host emerged as my savior, guiding me to an alternative sanctuary shielded from the relentless wind. After a modest dinner, I indulged in a generous pour of Irish whiskey, surrendering to the soothing embrace of slumber, grateful for the tranquility of the night.

As the sun greeted me with a gentle caress, I found myself back in the saddle on Tippi. An early morning ride past Florence unfolded, each curve of the road a thrilling waltz with the remnants of marine fog. This was my sanctuary — a joyful communion with the open road and splendid vistas without a hint of traffic. All too soon, Tippi beckoned me onwards, leading to Yachats, Oregon, a captivating seaside village promising both coffee and a well-deserved breakfast.

On a whim, I reached out to an old friend from Sedona, Elaine, her presence a comforting tether to the past. Hoping she and her gracious husband could join me for an impromptu cup of coffee, I was delighted when they not only accepted my invitation but also extended a generous offer for me to spend the night. It was the 4th of July, and their cottage, adorned with breathtaking views of the bay, surpassed all expectations.

I soon found myself immersed in the heartwarming tapestry of small-town America, a 4th of July parade, and savoring dinner with their friends by the bay (a diverse ensemble of souls who graciously embraced me). The day culminated in a spectacular sunset and an awe-inspiring fireworks extravaganza over the ocean (as you can see in the photo at the top of this blog).

Early the following morning, as I reassured my friends of my competence on a substantial bike, I negotiated their lengthy gravel driveway. But I inadvertently tipped Tippi over. My pride was slightly bruised, but with concerted effort, we righted Tippi, and my journey continued. The weather was perfect as the road led me along the rest of the Oregon coast, passing through my beloved coastal havens like Cannon Beach and Surf Pines before culminating in Astoria.

My journey reached a momentous juncture as I approached the Astoria-Megler Bridge, an imposing truss bridge spanning an astonishing 4.6 miles, suspended 192 feet above the majestic Columbia River. This crossing marked my entry into Washington State, and contrary to the daunting tales of ferocious winds, I was pleasantly greeted by a smooth and rewarding journey. I took a moment to document my arrival in my sixth state in just over five weeks on the road. With newfound enthusiasm, I revved up Tippi and continued my pilgrimage to the charming village of Westport, Washington, where my family eagerly awaited my arrival.

What an extraordinary adventure it has been, with the promise of even more to come. Along the way, I have cast aside heartache, embraced the highs and lows of the road, and found solace in the arms of independence, the kind of independence that comes from conquering challenges that nudge us beyond our comfort zones. I wholeheartedly embrace my addiction to solo motorcycle travel, cherishing the serendipitous encounters with strangers who become cherished friends, and savoring the freedom of the open road.

Stay tuned for the forthcoming chapter, where I will unveil my family adventures in Washington and the epic odyssey through Canada. I extend my heartfelt gratitude to you for joining me on this narrative journey. Your comments, suggestions, and unwavering support are a source of immense inspiration. Until then, whether you embark on a bike, in a car, on a bicycle, or simply with your own two feet, I implore you to heed the call of your own epic adventure. Safe travels, fellow adventurers!

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