Day: December 7, 2019

Death Valley 2008: My first visit

A Trip To Death Valley!

Brown Motor Works in Pomona, California, hosted a chili cookoff in March 2008, which was immediately followed by a weekend trip to Death Valley.  At the time, I’d been a California boy for 30 years, but I’d never been to Death Valley. I always wanted to go. And, I love chili.  Free chili…lots of photo ops…good weather…and a motorcycle ride to a place I’d never been before.  It seemed like a no-brainer to me.  It was a ride I had to make.

Kawasaki’s KLR 650

I had purchased a 2006 KLR 650 a year or two earlier from my good buddy Art at the Montclair Kawasaki dealer, and something strange happened:  I found I was enjoying the little KLR more than the other big roadburners I owned.  At that time, I had gone way overboard in acquiring motorcycles.  I had a TL1000S Suzuki, a Harley Softail, a Honda CBX, a Triumph Daytona 1200, and a Triumph Tiger 955 (and I think I owned them all at the same time).   There was something about the KLR, though, that I liked, and I found myself riding it more often than not.  All the guys I rode with either had BMWs, Harleys, or Triumphs, and my KLR was the smallbore of the bunch.  I didn’t care.  I liked riding it.  To my surprise, I found that riding a smaller bike was more fun.

A lone KLR in a sea of BMWs. Nearly all of my friends rode BMW motorcycles in those days. I had a lot of fun with my KLR.

The Chili Cookoff

Good buddy Dennis, shown here immediately after taking top honors in the chili-eating contest. Dennis is an Iron Butt rider and he rides a BMW. The rules were different than what I expected. You weren’t allowed to lift the bowl off the table, so the serious competitors simply dove in. BMW riders are a particularly sophisticated bunch.

On To Mojave

The guys at Brown Motor Works planned to leave at the end of the day, but I didn’t want to hang around until then.  Immediately after grabbing a few photos from the chili contest, I was on the KLR headed east and then north into the Mojave Desert.

I took my KLR and found my way along Old Route 66 into the Mojave Desert.
I took I-40 over to Kelbaker Road and then headed into the Mojave National Preserve. The group planned to meet in Baker, and I figured if I timed it right I would get there right about nightfall.
I grabbed this photo along the Kelbaker Road. I didn’t know too much about motorcycle photography. This is the shot magazine editors always hate…the motorcycle by the side of the road.

Baker and The Mad Greek

Baker is a wide spot in the road along the I-15, and it’s a jumping off point for Death Valley.  It is a funky place with a couple of poorly-maintained and overpriced gas stations, the world’s tallest thermometer, and a cool restaurant called The Mad Greek.  The Mad Greek is a place that seems to always show up in any movie about a road trip to Vegas.  I have yet to find a Greek in the place, but the food is good and the staff is friendly.

We had dinner at the Mad Greek in Baker along the I-15. We spent the night in Baker, and then had breakfast at the Mad Greek the next morning, too.

Into the Valley of Death

After a breakfast at the Mad Greek the next morning, we road north toward Death Valley.  There’s nothing out there but great roads and the Mojave for the 80 miles or so to the park entrance, and the Beemer boys were riding at speeds well in excess of 100 mph so I couldn’t keep up.  The KLR might see 100 on a really good day, but I didn’t care.  I wanted to stop, smell the roses, and get good photos.  Riding by myself didn’t bother me at all.  I preferred it.

Entering Death Valley the next morning.
My reaction was simple upon entering Death Valley: Wow! It was what I hoped it would be.
Another shot of my KLR.
At some ruins in Death Valley.
My friend Eddie and his GS.

Artist’s Palette

One of the cool spots to stop in Death Valley is a hilly area called Artist’s Palette.  Each hill has a different dominant mineral (and a different color), and the result is something that looks like an artist’s palette.  It’s a very cool thing to see.

Artist’s Palette in Death Valley.
My friend Joseph and his Triumph Sprint.

High Prices and Photo Ops

Death Valley’s claim to fame is that it’s one of the lowest spots on the planet.   It’s also in one of the more remote places on the planet, which meant that fuel costs were unusually high.   All made for interesting photos.

This was a gas station in Furnace Creek. At the time (this was in 2008), the gasoline prices here were the highest I had ever seen.
An obligatory shot along the road in Death Valley.

Wildrose Road and the Charcoal Kilns

My friend Bob told me about Wildrose Road, a road that cut through some canyons on the way out of Death Valley.
It was a great ride. While I was on Wildrose Road, I saw signs for the Charcoal Kilns, so I took a short detour. On the way up to the Charcoal Kilns, I stopped to take the picture above. A guy and his wife were coming from the other direction and he asked if I wanted a picture of me with my KLR. Death Valley was cold. I had on every piece of clothing I brought with me.
The Charcoal kilns. These were built in the 1870s. They are 25 feet tall and 30 feet in diameter.
Wildrose Road. You could probably get through it on any motorcycle, but I was glad I had the KLR. Bob was right…Wildrose Road was a great ride.

The Gear

I had a Nikon D200 digital camera when I did this trip and the first-generation Nikon 24-120 lens with a polarizer, and it did a good job for me.  I think it was a 10 megapixel deal and that seemed like a lot in those days.  I kept the D200 for a long time and I had a lot of fun with it.  I used it for all of the photos you see here.  It was big and bulky, and as I recall, it took all of the space in one of the Kawasaki saddlebags I used with my KLR.  It was only a weekend trip, and the other saddlebag was enough for my other stuff.  I like to travel light and the arrangement worked fine for me.

Death Valley:  The Bottom Line

If you’ve ever thought about taking a ride to Death Valley, do it.  Take a camera, too. Trust me on this: You won’t be disappointed. As a rider and a photography enthusiast, I had a great time. The KLR 650 was more than enough motorcycle, I felt it was a good bike for a trip like this, and I concluded that Death Valley is doable on just about any motorcycle (especially if you mostly stick to Death Valley’s paved roads, as I did).  The photo ops in Death Valley are stunning.  If you live in southern California, it’s an easy weekend trip.

One day was not enough, though.  There was a lot of Death Valley left to see, and I knew I’d be back.

There’s more coming on Death Valley and a bunch of other great rides.  Sign up here and never miss an Exhaust Notes blog!