By Mike Huber
Having just left my new home in Nicaragua and boarding a local bus on a 26-hour ride to Panama had me almost second guessing my decision. The bus was full, and the bathroom already looked like a scene out of Poltergeist. Now, all this I was able to tolerate, but what really got my goat was that they had TVs every few rows. You’d think “OK, we’ll watch a few movies to pass the time.” Not on this bus. They had a Kirk Cameron movie (Fireproof) on repeat AND in Spanish. I had never seen this movie and by the 2nd time it rolled on I was ready to just set up camp inside the destroyed bathroom just to get a reprieve from it.
I eventually fell asleep with the help of some Flor de Caña that I smuggled onto the bus. After what felt like forever the bus came to a stop, and I noticed everyone was getting off. I was still half asleep when I was ushered off the bus. Still bleary eyed I looked at my watch. It was 4:00 a.m. We were at the border of Nicaragua and Costa Rica and the border crossing didn’t open until 7:00 a.m. I was beginning to understand why the bus ride would take 26 hours. After sitting on the concrete for 3 hours the border finally opened, and we were welcomed into Costa Rica.
Once back on the bus my anxiety increased as we all wondered what type of obstacles we’d have to overcome to enter Panama. Entering through the Panama border was less time consuming but again the bus emptied and everyone was guided into a small room with their luggage, where we all had to open each item as dogs systematically sniffed through all the luggage, piece by piece. Then, once back on the bus, we continued the journey to Panama City. Fireproof was probably on its 8th showing.
The further south we traveled the landscape continued to change, as did the neighborhoods. In Nicaragua the houses were in mostly poor condition but by the time we were in Panama they were more like those you’d find in the United States, modern and well maintained. This was due to the Panama Canal which draws in an unreal amount of revenue for the country.
As we pulled into the terminal, I was exhausted and ready to exit the bus. Fireproof was still playing on the TVs overhead and I couldn’t leave fast enough. It was a short taxi ride to the hotel I had picked in downtown Panama City. I quickly learned that in 2012, almost anywhere outside Panama City was difficult to find an affordable place to stay with solid wi-fi to perform my work duties. This was frustrating as I hit wall after wall, all the while residing in a Marriott, which was not what I envisioned life in Panama would be.
After 3 days of continued failed attempts at finding a suitable home, it was time to decide to move on or return to Nicaragua. I honestly think the thought of another 26-hour bus ride back to Nicaragua with Fireproof playing nonstop was the key factor in deciding to move onward. But to where was the question. I was at the end of Central America so this meant I would have to fly to my next destination. Looking at a map the logical choices were Columbia or Ecuador. I left it up to a coin toss to determine which it would be. The coin landed on heads, so Ecuador it was. That day I booked a flight to leave in 3 days.
This decision left me with limited time to tour Panama City. I am not huge on tourist spots but the one place I wanted to see was the Panama Canal. It didn’t feel right to be there without seeing this engineering marvel, and I am glad I did. The canal was extremely impressive, and they had grandstands you could sit in to watch the massive ships pass through the initial two steps of the Miraflores Locks. These two locks manage to raise ships 54 feet higher as they let the water rush in. The ships traveling through the locks must surrender their boats to a Panamanian captain (to include raising Panamanian Flag on their masts). Many boats were extremely large and had very little leeway on either side as they steered through the canal, so the captain piloting the boats must be certified and skilled in navigating the tight canal locks.
The remainder of the days spent in Panama consisted of getting in some short runs along the waterfront and starting the preparation for the next stop in Quito, Ecuador. Research showed that the wi-fi in Quito was fast and reliable. This put me at ease since the pace I was going for was a minimum of one month per country. This pace would allow me enough time to settle and fully absorb the culture instead of just being in a vacation mode. I wanted to be immersed in the culture and was determined to stay in Quito for that minimum length of time. Upon landing in Quito, I instantly knew that a month there wouldn’t be enough and would require me to adjust my schedule yet again.