By Mike Huber
I awoke in Ha Giang prepared for an early start. This would be my first day on the Ha Giang Loop. After a quick breakfast (see the photo above) and some coffee, I was packed and ready to ride.
I knew the roads could get busy, so I made it a point to have everything packed up. This would allow me to wrap up riding by 3:00 p.m., so I could explore whatever city or village I would be staying in that afternoon. Tigit Rental had printed out the route they preferred and my plan was to stick to it.
My kickstand was up just after 07:30 and I was off. It was about 07:40 when my kickstand went back down. I had been pulled over by the Vietnamese police. I wasn’t speeding (I never am, right?). It was a routine license check. I quickly pulled out my IDP (International Driving Permit) and handed it to them. Tigit Rental had warned me that my IDP was not valid in Vietnam. It literally goes back to some clause Vietnam refused to sign in 1949.
Tigit Rental had also warned me to keep a certain amount of currency separate to pay the “fee” to the police. That was where my ADD kicked in and I had forgotten the amount. Utilizing Google Translate and handing my phone back and forth, I now had three officers around me. One officer said it was 8 million Dong (about 256USD). I didn’t have that amount with me. I explained that to them and that a trip to an ATM was required and I would return with the payment for the “fee.” I was forced to either surrender my passport (which was not happening) or leave my bag.
As I ran the money conversion in my head, I realized the amount was not good. What’s worse is it took visits to three banks to find one that took my card (and that would allow that amount to be withdrawn). I also had forgotten to pay myself that month, so my bank account was now pretty close to zero after my previous numerous withdrawals. I was getting a bit flustered as I finally got all 8 million Dong and was ready to head back to the checkpoint, pay them, get my backpack, and depart. That was when I realized I had forgotten where the checkpoint even was located. I had been turned around so many ways in hunting down banks I was fully disoriented. The only thing I could think of doing was returning to the starting point, my hotel, and just re-riding my path from that morning.
That worked out and I finally made my way back to the checkpoint. The officer than asked why it took me so long and I know I typed something to the effect “I’m not that smart” into the translator. He then ushered me over to a van and in the passenger front seat opened a briefcase full of cash.
Looking back, this entire experience is a “what NOT to do” outline for these types of situations. I get it, and I fully deserve any bashing I get because I was beyond dumb here. I managed to get ever more stupid.
I thought taking my phone out to take a photo of the briefcase full of cash would be a great addition to this story, which I knew I would write eventually. As I angled my phone, another officer behind me grabbed it. This was not good. He spent five minutes reviewing every piece of data and photo in my phone searching for the photo that I never managed to take, and all the while I kept repeating “no photo.” He finally returned my phone.
I unknowingly overpaid the Vietnamese police about 150USD ((2 to 3 million Dong is the going rate; I had paid 8 million). I was almost arrested due to my own stupidity. There was just one final step to take before I could go on my way: A photo of myself and my motorcycle. This photo was uploaded to what I will describe as a massive group text chat for future altercations with the police that would prove I had paid my “entry fee.”
It was now close to 10:00 a.m. My early start was shot. I threw my leg over the Honda and fired it up. Feeling relieved I wasn’t going to jail, there was still plenty of daylight to salvage my slow and difficult start. Sadly, that relief was short lived. In just under 30 minutes, I found myself sitting in front of a judge and more police.
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Nothing to say here I am afraid. Vietnam would not be high on my list of places to visit.
I do wish you had put the whole story in one report here.
Vietnam was one of the easiest countries I’ve ever ridden in—outside of the roundabouts and those narrow mountain passes 😅. I always felt safe, the country is absolutely gorgeous, and the food is unreal.
But, like my moto trips through Mexico and South America, you have to know the going rate for the bribe… and also know when not to be afraid to ask to see the judge. Funny enough, that usually leads to a much more reasonable “extortion” fee. Sucks when you have no choice but to pay!
it would probably be too long for one report. i am trying to keep it to a 4-5 part series. And, vietnam is a really amazing beautiful country.
Mike, what’s the displacement on that motorcycle? It looks a lot like CSC’s TT 250.
Enjoying these stories; thanks much.
Happy to be back writing! It was a Honda XR150. Now that I rented it there I am noticing them in many countries I travel to, including here in Colombia. Thanks Joe!
Thought so. That Honda CG motor is probably one of the more common motorcycle engines throughout the world. Loved both of mine (CSC 150 and the TT 250). Several companies in China, Taiwan, and Brazil (and probably elsewhere) manufacture it. It’s surprising how much fun it is to ride a smaller displacement motorcycle.
You know, I’ll bet that motorcycle wasn’t made by Honda. I’m guessing it was manufactured for Honda in China.
Oh my goodness!! I hitchhiked through parts of the Philippines when I was 19, and my wife and I rode through and around Sardinia last year for 10 days, but I’m still a foreign travel neophyte (not counting my overseas service with the darling USMC). I can’t wait to hear the next installment!!!