The Harley-Davidson Museum

By Joe Berk

I’ve been a motorcycle guy nearly all my life and I’ve owned several motorcycles.  Only two of them were Harleys; the first was beautiful but terrible in many ways (a ’79 Electra Glide Classic).  The second was beautiful and it was a great machine (a ’92 Heritage Softail).  I think Harley’s styling on past models has been awesome.  Bottom line? I’m not a Harley fanatic and I’m not a hater.  It’s not likely I’d ever buy another Harley, unless I came across a cheap XR-1000 (and that’s probably not in the cards).  All that said, I can tell you that the Harley-Davidson Museum is the best motorcycle museum (and maybe the best anything museum) I’ve ever visited (and I’ve visited a lot of them).

First, a bit of logistics about the Museum and our upcoming blogs.   We were in Milwaukee specifically to visit the Museum along with a few other Milwaukee highlights.  The Harley Museum is too much to take in with just a single visit, and it is definitely too much to cover in a single blog.  Our Milwaukee schedule allowed only one Harley Museum visit, but I’ll cover it in three or four blogs.  This is the first.

Sticking to the logistics for a moment, the Museum is easy to get to.  Plug it into Waze and you’ll drive right up to their front door.  There’s plenty of parking, and we snagged a handicap parking spot right at their front door (my handicap tag is the silver lining to a 2009 motorcycle accident).  We visited the Museum on a weekday, so it was not too crowded.  I’m guessing that’s not the case on the weekends.

Admission is reasonable at $24 per person; for us it was a little less because we qualify for the geezer discount (that knocks it down to $20 per person).  Knowing Harley’s customer base, I think a lot of folks get in for $20.

The interior lighting was subdued.  Flash photography is allowed, but it’s hard to get decent photos with flash.  Nearly everything you see here is with ambient lighting.  I had to crank up the Nikon’s ISO, so you may see some graininess in my photos.  Mea culpa.

The Museum has three floors, and the building is huge.  There are several permanent exhibits and a few special exhibits (ones that change from time to time).   The exhibits (both permanent and special) include:

      • Motorcycle Galleries.
      • Mama Tried.
      • Mi Papi.
      • The Engine Room.
      • The Archives.
      • Military Motorcycles.
      • Clubs and Competition.
      • The Tank Wall.
      • Art and Engineering.

Motorcycle Galleries

The Motorcycle Galleries are on the first and second floors, and they dominate the Museum.  The Motorcycle Galleries is an appropriate name. The first part is a 180-foot, three-motorcycle-wide display of motorcycles from Harley’s first 50 years, starting with their very first model.  The second part features later Harleys.

It was a well assembled exhibit and the motorcycles are beautiful.  As I walked the line and took in the motorcycles, I realized I had seen more than a few of these bikes in books.  Seeing them in person was special.

Mama Tried

Mama Tried was a custom bike exhibit, containing all sorts of custom Harleys (not the wigged-out choppers you see at the motorcycle shows).  I’m not sure what the name (Mama Tried) is supposed to mean, but I thought the exhibit was good.  I was liked seeing the Knucklehead customized by Shinya Kimura, whom we’ve written about before.

Mi Papi Has A Motorcycle

You may remember that Joe Gresh wrote an ExNotes review a few years ago about the Spanish language kid’s book, Mi Papi Has A Motorcycle.  The book impressed Gresh; apparently, it had the same effect on the Museum staff.  There’s an entire hall with large storyboards taken from the book.

The Engine Room

The Engine Room was enlightening.  I always found the history and names of Harley engines confusing.  VL, UL, flatheads, you know…what do all those designations actually mean?  I’m a mechanical engineer and I never could follow it all.  The Engine Room made it all clear.  We’ll have a future blog on it.  This was one of the best parts of the Harley Museum.

The Archives

The Archives were something I’d read about before.  An elevator takes you to the third floor.  The archives are not open to the public, but you can peer in through a double wire fence.  One of Elvis Presley’s motorcycles was near the fence.

Military Motorcycles

The Military Motorcycles exhibit features the Harleys used in World War II and it was the best exhibit of its type I’ve ever seen.  This is a topic I’ve been interested in for a l0ng time, going back to before I wrote The Complete Book of Police and Military Motorcycles.  There will be a separate blog on this exhibit.  It was awesome.

Clubs and Competition

The Clubs and Competition exhibit features a board track with vintage race bikes and projected images of motorcycle racers (and accompanying engine sounds), vintage Harley hill climbers, and Joe Petrali’s land speed record Knucklehead.  The Petrali streamliner was awesome.

The Tank Wall

The Tank Wall and the tank exhibits were intriguing.  I’ve seen photos of it many times, but to see it in person had more of an impact.  To me, the tanks and the engine are what make a Harley.  It’s well done.  I felt like a kid in a candy store more in this part of the Museum than anywhere else.

Art and Engineering

The Museum has a relatively new Art and Engineering exhibit, which is intended to show how art combines with engineering at Harley-Davidson.  I was disappointed, especially because it was one of the main reasons I visited.   I felt it was superficial and that it was basically a Harley-Davidson commercial, with almost nothing beyond a very light explanation of how Harley engineering is influenced by art.  I get it; they go from sketches to clay mockups to metal, and they select colors along the way.  Got it.  They use CAD.  Got it.  Willie G is a wonderful human being, and so was an earlier designer/stylist named Brooks Stevens.  Got it.  I kind of knew all of that before I got on the airplane to go to Milwaukee (except for the part about Brooks Stevens; that was new to me).

When the motorcycling world discovered Willie G 50 years ago (in the days of the Super Glide, the XLCR Cafe Racer, the Electra Glide Classic, the Low Rider, etc.) there were lots of stories about how Harley went to motorcycle events and studied how riders customized their motorcycles.  That was good stuff and those were good creativity inputs, but there was none of that in this exhibit.  I was hoping to understand how Harley selected the style and the performance parameters for the new Sportster (a nice-looking motorcycle) and the Pan America (an ugly motorcycle, but all ADV bikes are), and maybe gain some insights into where Harley might go in the future.  There was none of that.

I’m probably not a fair judge in this area.  I taught engineering for 27 years at Cal Poly Pomona, I’ve had motorcycle engineering assignments related to Harley and other companies, and I wrote a book about engineering creativity.   To be fair to Harley, they weren’t targeting retired engineering professors when they created the Art and Engineering exhibit.  The exhibit had nice visuals, but for me it was devoid of any meaningful content.  That said, we took in nine exhibits at the Harley Museum and only this one didn’t measure up to what I expected.  The rest were all outstanding, and 8 out of 9 wins is a pretty good score in anybody’s book.


So there you have it:  My Harley-Davidson Museum impressions.  Sue and I had a good time.  We were there for about three hours, but it would have been easy to spend the entire day.  My disappointment in the Art and Engineering exhibit notwithstanding, I strongly recommend that anyone who rides or has even a passing interest in the American icon that is Harley-Davidson visit the Museum.  It’s a bucket list destination.  I’m glad I went.

At the tail end of our path through the Harley Museum, there’s an area with current model Harleys where you can sit on the bikes and take pictures.  A nice guy from the Czech Republic offered to take a picture of Susie and me with my cell phone. It looks good.  Our smiles are real.


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Back in print, and only $9.95!

The Complete Book of Military and Police Motorcycles is back in print. I wrote the book over 20 years ago.  Then the Internet accelerated and the printed book market tanked.  Paladin Press (the publisher) went out of business, and just like that, so did the book.  But that was then and this is now, and The Complete Book of Military and Police Motorcycles is back in print and available on Amazon.

You might wonder:  Where did I get that fantastic cover photo?  The photo shows Trooper Ralph Dowgin, a New Jersey State Trooper who went on to command Troop D (the Troop that patrols the New Jersey Turnpike, the most heavily-traveled road in the country).   I actually met Trooper Dowgin when I was a boy (my Dad knew him).   The photo came to me from my good buddy Mike B, who retired as the New Brunswick, New Jersey, Chief of Police.  Like they say, it’s a small world.

The story of police and military motorcycles is an intriguing one, espeically as it applies to the US War Department, Indian, and Harley-Davidson. During World War II, the US government bought motorcycles from both Harley and Indian, but the positions taken by Harley and Indian were worlds apart.  The Feds told both manufacturers they had to stop producing for the civilian market and focus exclusively on military motorcycles.  Indian did what they were told.  Harley told the government that they, not some government bureaucrat, would decide who to sell motorcycles to. Harley called the government’s bluff, and they got it right.  The War Department continued to buy Harleys as Harley continued selling to the civilian market, and the results were predictable: When the war ended Harley still had a civilian customer base and Indian did not.  Indian struggled for a few years trying to regain market share, but the damage was done and the handwriting was on the wall.  Indian went under in the early 1950s.

If you buy a copy of The Complete Book of Police and Military Motorcycles, understand that it describes the market as it existed when the book was published in 2001.   Things are a little bit different now.  Future plans call for an update to include today’s military and police motorcycles, but that’s far in the future and the book will sell for a bunch more than $9.95.   I’ll have a Kindle ebook version at some point in the future, too, but it’s not going to be immediate.  For now, it’s print only, and it’s only $9.95.  Spend the bucks, make a friend for life, and don’t forget:   Click on those popup ads!


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The Lyon Air Museum

This is a cool story. Good buddy Mike was visiting us here in Leftist Lunacy Land (i.e., the Peoples Republik of Kalifornia, where I hang my hat) and we thought we were running out of things to do.  Sue hopped on the Internet and found the Lyon Air Museum near John Wayne Airport in Orange County.  I’d never heard of the place, but it was awesome.  As expected, the Museum had the obligatory collection of restored World War II aircraft, but (to my surprise) the place also housed a great collection of vintage motorcycles and more than a few interesting cars.  Take a look at the motorcycles.

1945 Indian 340B as used by the US Army.
1943 German NSU Kettenkrad HK 101 Tracked Motorcycle.
1943 Japanese Rikuo Motorcycle and Sidecar.
A 1931 Panther Motorcycle with sidecar.
A German BMW.
1943 BMW R75 with Sidecar.
A 1921 Harley.
An Indian V-twin.
A Russian M-72.
A 750cc German Zundapp, another motorcycle used by Germany in World War II.

The Museum was founded by Major General William Lyon, an entrepreneur and civic leader based in southern California.  The William H. Lyon Company is one of the largest real estate developers in the world.  General Lyon died a few years ago at age 97.

A view from the Museum’s balcony.

There are many interesting aircraft on display inside the Museum.  One of the coolest exhibits was outside the display area, however, on the tarmac just outside.  That’s the highly-polished B-25 that was General Lyon’s personal aircraft.

On the tarmac, just outside the display area.
Fantastic nose art.

The Lyon Air Museum is located at 19300 Ike Jones Road in Santa Ana, California. You can learn more about the Lyon Air Museum here. Trust me on this: It’s worth the ride.  You’ll have a good time.


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The Indian 741

By Joe Berk

The world was at war, the Army said build motorcycles this way, Indian saluted and executed, and Harley told the Army to go pound sand.   This is the Indian that resulted, it’s running in the current issue of Motorcycle Classics magazine, and you might want to read it.


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Indian ExhaustNotes!

By Joe Berk

We were visiting the Planes of Fame last month when I spotted the US Army World War II motorcycle you see below…

At first, I thought it was a Harley WLA 45, but nope, a nice young fellow named Paul was working on the motorcycle and he told me it was an Indian.  Wow, you don’t see too many WWII US Army Indians.  I was a bit embarrassed (after all, I wrote a book about police and military motorcycles), but the beauty of this motorcycle soon made me forget that.   Check out these photos, folks…

When I returned home, I had to look up what I had written two decades ago about the Indian 741 in The Complete Book of Police and Military Motorcycles

INDIAN WORLD WAR II MOTORCYCLES

During the war, Indian produced about 40,000 motorcycles and essentially devoted its entire operation to military production. It produced few civilian motorcycles (the company did not even bother to print a catalog in 1942), although it maintained a small amount of its production capacity for police motorcycles. It sold its military motorcycles to the U.S. Army and to several other Allied nations, most notably England. Indian offered several models during World War II. These included the Model 741, the Chief, the Model 640B, the M1, and the Model 841.

The Model 741

The Model 741 was Indian’s main military motorcycle. It was the machine Indian had developed in response to the U.S. Army’s ill-advised initial requirement for a 500-cc military motorcycle. The Model 741’s engine actually displaced 30.5 cubic inches (or 500 cc), and for this reason it became known as the “30-50.”

The Model 741 was based on Indian’s Junior Scout. Its 500-cc, V-twin engine was the Junior Scout engine detuned for increased durability. It only produced about 15 horsepower. The Model 741 had a hand shift and a foot clutch like the Harley-Davidson WLA, but the Indian motorcycle put the shifter on the right side of the gas tank instead of on the left side as Harley-Davidson had done. The motorcycle’s throttle was in the left handgrip, in accordance with the army’s initial specification. As Harley-Davidson had done, Indian extended the front forks to give greater ground clearance. Indian also extended the rear frame for the same purpose. The Model 741 also used the much larger Indian Chief’s transmission for increased reliability. The Model 741 had a rifle scabbard on the right front fender and an ammunition container on the left front fender.

The Indian Model 741, like the Harley- Davidson WLA, was not a high-performance motorcycle. Both machines weighed over 500 pounds. Both machines had top speeds of approximately 65 mph. The army was more interested in durability than in top speed.

The U.S. Army used the Indian Model 741 during World War II, as did the armies of Great Britain, Canada, Poland, Australia, and Russia. Indian also sold Model 741s to the British Royal Air Force.

Here’s the best part of this story…The Complete Book of Police and Military Motorcycles is still in print, it’s just $12.95, and all you need to do to order it is click on the link you see here.

Oh, and one more thing.  If you live for the sound of exotic ExhaustNotes, I saved the best for last…


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