Header images: An update!

Yep, we’ve added a few new header images at the top of our blog again.   Every once in a while we like to add a few more, and on occasion we’ll blog about what they are.  Every time you visit the blog, one of a dozen or so images randomly pops up at the top of our blog.   If you’ve wondered what they are, today is the day your ship comes in!  Here’s a brief explanation of each…

This is the original ExNotes blog header image, which will still pop up from time to time. I love this photo. I took it on the ride through Colombia in Mompox, a mystical town tucked away in a magic land. I’d like to invite you to read the blog I wrote on Mompox a few months ago. If you look real close, you’ll see my good buddy Juan, who I rode with in Colombia and on the CSC Western American Adventure Ride.
Ah, the whales Scammon’s Lagoon, Guerrero Negro, Baja California Sur. Gresh and I are going to ride there in March. It’s one of life’s real treats. We’ll be blogging the entire trip, and we’ll be insured with BajaBound Insurance (the best there is).
Wow, another Guerrero Negro photo, this time after the bikes had been put away for the evening at the Don Gus Hotel. I love the hotel and the restaurant (and the bar, too!) at the Don Gus Hotel. This was on one of the CSC Motorcycles Baja adventure rides.
One of the best parts of any Baja adventure ride is the cuisine. These are tacos we enjoyed on the recent ride with Janus Motorcycles. The food down there is fantastic!
Janus Motorcycles parked along the Malecon in San Felipe. This was a great Baja ride, and the Janus machines performed perfectly. It was a grand adventure. Hell, they all are!
A photo of Jordan Swartzendruber (on the left, hugging the center line) and Devin Biek (on the right), both on Janus Motorcycles. We did about a thousand miles in 4 days on these 250cc motorcycles. It was one of the coldest rides I’ve ever done, but we had a grand time!
Ah, my old Daytona 1200 on the road near Shiprock, New Mexico. I grabbed this photo during the 2005 Three Flags Classic Rally, in which good buddy Marty and I rode 5,000 miles from Mexico through the US and on into Canada. It was a grand adventure!
This is another photo from the 2005 Three Flags Classic, somewhere on the road in Arizona. There were over 400 motorcycles in the ’05 TFC; I rode the only Triumph in that event!
A lot of folks get their shorts in a knot when they see this photo. It’s Elmer, my good buddy and mature Mexican rattlesnake catching some rays and staying warm.  We were on the road to see the Sierra San Francisco cave paintings in Baja. Elmer was very cooperative that morning, and I got some fantastic photos of him.
Good buddy Mike Huber shot this photo of his campsite and he graciously allowed us to use it on the ExNotes blog. Mike wrote a guest blog for us on using hammocks. Mike lives on his motorcycle, camping wherever he finds a good spot.  What a life!
At Zongshen plant in Chongqing, China. We were moments away from starting our motorcycle ride across China, and the Zongers had a departure ceremony for us. That was one of the greatest rides I’ve ever been on, and you can read all about it Riding China. Gresh rode that one, too, and you can read his story about the trip here!
The lighthouse in Baja’s Guerrero Negro. It’s where we go to see the whales. This is an interesting photo…it’s a composite stitched together from six photos shot from left to right. I had a polarizer on the camera, which explains why the sky is darker in some portions of this composite.

Good times, to be sure.  We’ll be adding more photos in the future, so stay tuned.  Keep coming back to the ExNotes blog and you’ll see a different header time each time you visit!

Mesa Verde in Motorcycle Classics

Native American cliff dwellings in Mesa Verde National Park.

The latest Motorcycle Classics has a cool article on Mesa Verde National Park in southwestern Colorado.   Sue and I were there last year and it’s definitely worth a visit if you’re in the area.   Nah, let me change that last sentence: Mesa Verde National Park is worth a visit all by itself, wherever you are.  It’s only an 11-hour ride from Los Angeles on the freeways, although if I were going there again it wouldn’t be a freeway ride.  There are just too many interesting things to see on the our secondary roads. I’ve been writing for Motorcycle Classics for about a decade now, and you can see more of the MC articles here.

To Hammock or not to Hammock…

You guys remember our good buddy Mike Huber, whom we met on one of the Baja rides. Mike is a former US Army paratrooper, a GS rider, and a great guy. It was good to get an email from Mike a couple of days ago, along with the following guest blog…


Combining my two favorite passions in life of motorcycle and camping is new to me, but I quickly fell in love with the lifestyle and have grown to embrace moto camping so much that over the past two years I make it a point to moto camp at least once a month.

As I developed my passion for moto camping I began following blogs and Facebook groups to seek out tips and tricks that can make my moto camping experiences more exciting and comfortable. I began to notice that some moto campers on these pages camped in their hammocks full time and didn’t even own a tent. This awoke my curiosity since I always travel with an ENO double nest nylon hammock. On most nights when I camp I usually hang the hammock when I have a few hours to kill where I can get comfortable and read a book or just gaze into the campfire after a long day of riding. Even though I travel and use a hammock frequently I never thought of sleeping in my hammock while camping prior to reading these blogs.

A short time later I was traveling from Arizona to Colorado and I found myself in a beautiful state park camping where I had spent over an hour or so sitting in my hammock next to the fire. I decided to give this hammock camping thing a try. It was a clear night and the moon and stars were really popping so I threw a few logs on the fire, loaded my sleeping bag into the hammock ad settled in for a restful night’s sleep.
Below are a few pros and cons I have found with my limited hammocking experience:

Pros:

• Able to see the stars the entire night without having to leave your bed
• Lightweight and compact
• No pressure points in a hammock so it can be much more comfortable and warmer being off the ground
• A level area is not required so at times you can be closer to bodies of water

Cons:

• Some parks do not allow hammocks to be hung on any park property or trees (see photo)
• If you are in an area with no trees (EX: deserts of the southwestern United States (and using a cactus is a really bad idea)) there may not be a place to safely hang your hammock
• Without a properly equipped hammock facing bad weather can be a challenge

I enjoy the unique experience of hammock camping and whenever conditions are right have continued to camp in my hammock. I am now in the habit of setting up both my tent and hammock at my campsites and go with how I feel, the weather, and my surroundings. Hammock camping is another option to have, and with moto camping having more options is never a bad thing.


Mike, that’s an awesome blog.   Thanks for taking the time to think of us.  Your photos are outstanding.  Let’s get together for a taco or two the next time you’re in town.   Gresh says he’s buying!

Motorcycle Classics, Sandy Hook, and more…

Battery Potter, with steam-powered retractable hidden cannons. Sandy Hook was an early Army proving ground, and the advanced coastal artillery pieces hidden underground behind these walls were tested here. Boom boom!

Hey, check this out…that blog I did a few months ago on Sandy Hook, New Jersey, made it into print in Motorcycle Classics magazine!  It’s always cool getting something published, especially in a premier mag like Motorcycle Classics.   Your good buddies Joe Gresh and yours truly, being the vain dudes we are, each have a page on the ExhaustNotes site listing our magazine articles.   Just click on the Gresh or Berk links to take a gander.

But enough about us.  How about you?  Are you signed up for our automatic email notifications list?   There’s a widget on the right where you can add your name, and you’ll get a short email each time we publish a new blog.   Add your email address and you’ll automatically be entered in our moto adventure book giveaway.  You’ll find out on 1 January who won!

Okay, back to us: Here’s more good stuff…good buddy Dan notified us about two things we want to explore more…a moto video series on South America, and an article about another good buddy named Dan featured on ADVRider.   Gresh knew about the video series (he gets around way more than me), but I didn’t and I’m looking forward to viewing it.  Those are both coming up in a future blog.   And I found that Spencer Conway did another video series on Africa.  I’ll be getting into those later today, too.

The CSC San Gabriel…wow, is that bike ever taking the market by storm.  Revzilla and my good buddy Spurgeon Dunbar have a San Gabriel, and there are at least two great videos on that bike floating around on YouTube (I did one of them).  We’ll be doing a blog on that awesome motorcycle in the near future.   One of the best parts of the story is how the bike got its San Gabriel name.  The honors for that go to my good buddy Mike, and we’ll tell you the story behind it.

As you know, the ExhaustNotes layout is a series of index pages with links to our blogs, which is where most of the ExNotes content resides.  We have pages on Baja and our Baja adventures (watch for lots more coming up on that page), Gresh’s Z1 resurrection, Gresh’s articles, our books, Berk’s articles, Tales of the Gun, the CSC RX4 (and how it compares to the RX3 and the KLR 650), and our videos.   We’ll be adding another page in the near future (along with a bunch of content) on military and police motorcycles.  That’s a fascinating and most interesting topic.  And another on minimalist motorcycles.  The idea behind the minimalist moto page is to consolidate a listing of (and add to) our blogs on small bikes.  The CSC RX3, the TT250, the Janus Gryffin and Halcyon models, the GMW G310 GS, the Kawi Versys 300, the Kawasaki KLR 650, and few more we have coming down the pike.   And another on electric bikes.  And here’s a heads up on a future blog: Dealer, or no dealer?  It’s a new world out there, folks, and at least two manufacturers (CSC and Janus) have blown off the traditional path to market by selling direct.  It’s a fascinating story.

Stay tuned!

The BMW G 310 GS

Brown Motor Works in Pomona, California, and the G 310 GS BMW.

I’ve become a small bike guy. I rode big miles on 250cc motorcycles in Asia, South America, Mexico, and the US, and I’m naturally interested in any motorcycle of that approximate displacement. It’s no secret I was a consultant to CSC Motorcycles for about a decade and I was involved in the effort to bring the RX3 and the TT250 to America.  There. Having said that, let’s move into the topic of this blog, and that’s BMW’s contenders in this class, their 310cc entries. They have two. One is a street-oriented bike (the R 310), and the other is more styled along the lines of the BMW’s bigger GS bikes (the G 310 GS). I examined both motorcycles and I rode the GS version. My good buddies at Brown BMW provided the bikes and answered all of my questions.

Two GS models (foreground), and two R model 310cc BMWs.
The G 310 GS. The colors work for me. These are good looking motorcycles.
A couple of R 310 BMWs. The one in the foreground has the optional rack and tailbox.

My intent here is not to do a direct comparison of the Baby Beemer to the CSC bikes, although the comparisons are inevitable. I’m not going to dwell on them, though. If you want to learn more about the CSC bikes, my advice is to go to the ExhaustNotes RX3-to-RX4 comparos, or go directly to the CSC website.

After CSC introduced the RX3 in 2015, the motorcycle world took notice. Three manufacturers subsequently entered the market with small-displacement ADV bikes. One was BMW, another was Royal Enfield, and a third was Kawasaki. The Royal Enfield is a 400cc single; I haven’t ridden it (although I understand Royal Enfield dealers give test rides; one of these days I’ll get around to riding one). The Kawasaki is a 300cc twin; I haven’t ridden it (Kawasaki dealers typically do not allow test rides). Gresh rode the Kawasaki when he was invited to the little Kawi’s intro and he did a video on it.  BMW allows test rides (as does CSC), so I was able to ride the BMW. I know that Honda, Yamaha, and Suzuki all have 250 and 300cc bikes, too, but those are street-oriented bikes and they are not equipped for adventure touring. I don’t consider them competitors in this class. Basically, if you want a small ADV bike, it’s CSC, BMW, Kawasaki, or Royal Enfield.

Let’s get the heavy lifting out of the way first and tackle the gorillas in the room: Price and country of origin. Here’s the bottom line…the street-oriented BMW, the R 310, is $4950 for a 2018 model. That includes freight and setup; it does not include tax and documentation fees.  The G 310 GS (the adventure version and the primary focus of this blog) is another thousand bucks at $5940 (again, that includes freight and setup, but does not include tax and doc fees).  That’s with both bikes bare (no accessories).

Before continuing with the pricing discussion, let’s hit that country-of-origin thing. These bikes are built for BMW in India. Some folks might have an issue with that. I’m not one of them. I examined the bikes (the R and the GS models) and their fit and finish is top notch. I guess BMW feels that way, too, and they back it up: The 310cc bikes have the same 3-year, 36000-mile warranty as do the bigger BMW motorcycles.   That’s better than CSC, Yamaha, Honda, Royal Enfield, and Kawasaki.

Okay, back to pricing and some of the details to get the bikes ADV-ready. If you want to add a tailbox to the R model, for the rack (which the R model does not include as standard equipment), it’s another $218, and for the tailbox, it’s $181. The Brown BMW parts guy told me that with the necessary hardware and taxes, the tailbox and rack come out to $457. The GS model comes with the rear rack as standard equipment, but to add the tailbox it’s that $181 figure. If you want to add panniers to the GS model, with the mounts and adaptors it’s another $709. If you want your baby Beemer GS to include a tailbox and panniers, you’re looking at adding roughly $900 to the bike.  That brings the price of the GS model to $5940 plus $900, or $6840 (not including tax and doc fees).   And that’s for a 2018 model.  Prices are going up in 2019.  I’ll get to that in a bit.

The luggage rack is standard equipment on the BMW G 310 GS; it’s an option on the R 310 model.
The panniers are not included as standard equipment on either of the 310cc BMWs. They are resin, and the two halves are held together with a zipper fastening mechanism.
The BMW panniers don’t have integral locks, but you can lock them by putting a padlock (not provided) through the two mating zipper tabs.

All of these numbers are for the 2018 model bikes. If you want to get a 2019 model, both bikes are going up another $750. That would put a panniers-and-topcase equipped 2019 model at just under $7600, not counting taxes and documentation fees. Refreshingly, BMW’s practice is to include freight and setup in the bike’s pricing and not leave that up to the dealers. The Big 4 let the dealers decide on their freight and setup fees, and, well, don’t get me started on that topic. Let’s just say that the way BMW does it is light years ahead of the Big 4 dealers in terms of transparency, honesty, and consistency.

Let’s hit a few of the tech features on the GS before describing the ride. The GS model has cast wheels (17-inch in the rear, and 19-inch in the front). There is no wire wheel option, which is surprising given the bike’s GS heritage. There’s an argument to be made for wire wheels instead of cast wheels for serious adventure touring. There’s also an argument to be made for cast wheels and tubeless tires. It’s a “Here’s your shovel, take your pick” discussion.  BMW chose cast wheels. It wouldn’t be a deal breaker for me.  I can live with either approach.

Cast wheels and single disks are provided on both the R and GS models.
The GS model’s rear wheel. Note the chain drive.

Both 310 models are chain drive, and both bikes use a single-cylinder, liquid-cooled, fuel-injected engine. The engine is sort of a vertical single (I say “sort of” because the cylinder is inclined 10 degrees to the rear). Body work obscures most of the cylinder, so it doesn’t look as unusual as it sounds. Interestingly, the intake and exhaust are reversed from what we are used to seeing. The fuel injector is in front of the engine and the exhaust pipe exits to the rear.  (To go tangential for a moment, Mustang used this approach in their earlier models in the 1950s. Those bikes also had 300cc engines; the Mustang engines were originally designed to power cement mixers. Really. I can’t make this stuff up.  You can read more about the early Mustangs here.)  It’s interesting to see the reversed intake/exhaust approach on a modern motorcycle. You could make the argument that tilting the cylinder to the rear adds to mass centralization (cue in the Erik Buell theme song), but I don’t know if that was the logic that drove this design.

The BMW G 310 GS: It’s a good-looking motorcycle. The tank holds 3.o gallons, a bit on the light side for an adventure touring motorcycle. Note the rearward cylinder slant and the exhaust exiting to the rear. The fuel injector is in front of the cylinder.   The starter motor is where a counterbalancer would normally reside
Check out the cast swingarm. It’s little touches like this that add to the overall quality and feel of this motorcycle.

The little GS instrumentation is all digital and indicator lights. It’s a good display. I didn’t like the tachometer approach. It has a horizontal linear readout along the bottom of the dash, and I had a hard time seeing it. Having said that, I will offer a radical thought: I think a tachometer is superfluous on a motorcycle. It’s interesting to see how fast the engine is revving, but I never rely on the tach for shifting or anything else. If you need a tach to tell you when to shift, you have no mechanical empathy (a topic to be covered in a later ExNotes blog). But that’s just me, and like I said, I know its heresy in the motorcycle world. I didn’t check speedo accuracy with a GPS because the GS I rode was brand new and it did not have a cellphone mount.

The G 310 GS dash. I didn’t care for the tachometer bar along the bottom, but I don’t really need a tach. The dash was a little hard to read in bright sunlight (I tweaked this photo in PhotoShop), but then nearly all motorcycles with LED dash panels have this issue.

I asked the Brown BMW sales manager (Tom Reece, a genuine good guy) about speedometer accuracy and he told me the speedo was optimistic, which seems to me to be the case on every motorcycle I’ve ever ridden. Curiously, though, the last four cars I’ve owned all had speedometers that were within 1 mph of the GPS reading. It seems to me the motorcycle industry would do well to steal a speedometer engineer away from one of the auto companies.

Both 310cc BMWs had a single disk in the front. It felt good to me. The bikes have ABS as standard equipment, and it’s switchable (you can turn it on or off from a left-handlebar switch).   The other controls on the handlebar switchgear are conventional, including the turn signals (there’s none of the turn signal tomfoolery that you find on the larger BMW motorcycles). I did not see any outlets on the bike I rode for USB or 12V charging. Maybe they’re there and I missed them.

The left handgrip and controls. Note the switchable ABS and bar-end weights.
The right handgrip. The bike probably needs the bar-end weights; it felt a bit buzzy to me.

One potential negative is the oil filter location on both bikes. Both use a spin-on oil filter that is mounted low and on the front of the engine. Stated differently, the filter is directly in line with anything the front tire kicks up.  I think that could be a liability off road, and perhaps even on road. My Triumph Tiger had a spin-on filter that was mounted underneath the engine (and mostly inside the engine, as the crankcase was recessed to protect the filter). I somehow managed to kick up a screwdriver with my front tire several years ago on the San Bernardino Freeway, the screwdriver penetrated the oil filter, and all of a sudden the rear end of my Triumph was sashaying around like an exotic dancer in a room full of big tippers (oil had sprayed all over the rear tire). The BMWs both have a skid plate of sorts, but it’s plastic and it looks kind of flimsy to me. I don’t think it’s the answer to crashing around in a field of boulders.

The skidplate and oil filter on the G 310 GS. The skidplate is plastic, and the oil filter’s location could put it in harm’s way.
The oil filter and skidplate on the R 310. I would have done this differently, but who am I compared to BMW?

On to the ride: I didn’t put a lot of miles on the GS and it was all in town. The bike felt peppy, and it might beat the RX3 in a drag race (especially since the one I rode wasn’t carrying the added weight of the RX3’s engine guards, steel skidplate, topcase and bags, and windshield). On that windshield thing…neither of the BMWs has a windshield, although they both have black wind deflectors. Again, I didn’t rack up any freeway miles, but around town, wind was not an issue.

Both of the little BMWs had constant diameter (i.e., non-tapered) handlebars. I always thought that tapered handlebars were a little bit of a marketing gimmick, but I could feel a difference in vibration between the BMW I rode and other bikes with tapered handlebars. I am assuming the BMW engine is counterbalanced (and my research tells me the bike has a counterbalancer), but the vibration still gets through. Looking at my photos, I don’t see where the counterbalancer would be located (the conventi0nal location in the crankcase forward area appears to be the spot that mounts the starter motor).  The vibration at higher rpm wasn’t offensive, but it was noticeable.  At the end of a 300-mile day, it would probably be more noticeable.

The G 310 GS ride was comfortable. In fact, it felt good. The suspension is adjustable for preload only in the rear. There’s no preload adjustment up front, and no damping adjustment in the front or the rear. The bike comes with a tool for the rear preload adjustment. The GS has 7 inches of suspension travel at both ends.  The GS’s seat height was a reasonable 33 inches, and I had no problem getting on or off the bike (nor did I have any issues when stopping).

To cut to the chase, the G 310 GS rode well and it felt secure. If I wanted a sensibly-sized (read: small) bike and if I was a BMW kind of guy, I’d have no reservations about owning this bike. And if I was going to buy a BMW, there’s no doubt in my mind it would be from Brown’s. I know and have ridden with both Bob Brown (the founder) and Dave Brown (the general manager), they are both great guys, and going any place else to buy a BMW just wouldn’t make sense.

After my ride, I had a ton of questions for the guys at Brown BMW, and I’ve included their answers in the above discussion. There were one or two other things I wanted to mention. I asked if there had been any reliability or service issues with the bike. Tom told me there had been a recall for a sidestand issue. Brown’s didn’t have any sidestand failures, but the Service Department made the sidestand mods to satisfy the recall. It happens. I’ve seen recalls for some pretty mundane issues on other makes, and it sounds like this was one of them.

The other question I asked was about the shop manual. Tom looked at me quizzically and then he told me they hadn’t sold a service manual for any of their motorcycles in years.  I said at the outset of this blog that I didn’t want it to be a CSC-to-BMW comparo, but I guess this is one of the fundamental differences between the two organizations I need to mention. CSC gives its customers a free shop manual, they have online tutorials, and they encourage their customers to do their own maintenance.  That’s an approach mandated by CSC’s path to market (they don’t sell through dealers).   BMW, which only sells through dealers, makes it almost a requirement that customers rely on dealer service departments. It seems to be an approach that works for BMW, and the guys I ride with who have BMWs all say Brown’s service is top drawer.

I liked the 310cc BMW, and I’d have no problem getting on one and riding across China, or Mexico, or the United States, or India (now there’s a cool idea).  I’d be a bit concerned about the lack of a shop manual, but that’s just me. If you’re a died-in-the-wool BMW type and you don’t want to do your own maintenance, I can see where this bike makes sense. I think that’s what BMW is relying on. Tom told me they sell the 310cc bikes to new riders and to guys who already own larger BMWs. Tom said younger guys stop by in their 3-series BMW automobiles, they see a $6K BMW motorcycle, and they think “hey, that’s not too bad.”

I think BMW views its 310cc bikes as an opportunity to introduce new riders to motorcycling (always a good thing) and ultimately, to upsell them to the larger BMW bikes. There’s nothing wrong with that, but I think BMW might be missing the boat. When I rode the G 310 GS, here’s the question I was thinking about: Would I travel big time on this bike?  Say a trip down to Cabo San Lucas and back?  The answer is yes. Where I think BMW might be remiss is they are not positioning the 310 as a serious long-distance adventure machine. I examined BMW’s website and I did a Google search on GS310 adventure rides, and not a lot shows up.  The BMW website talks about the bike being good for around town and trail rides.  I think it’s good for a lot more than that.  Maybe the Bavarians are worried about cannibalizing sales of their larger bikes, but if I was BMW I’d be pushing the hell out of the 310 for real world adventure touring.  The bike is the right size and I think it has the chops.  Along those same lines, if I were BMW I’d be organizing 310 adventure rides to Baja, Alaska, and some of our great destinations here in the US.  It’s an approach that sells motorcycles and pulls people into riding. I can tell you that from personal experience.

The Chattanooga Choo Choo, Chickamauga, Chicken Shawerma, and more…

I’ve blown by Chattanooga a bunch of times on Interstate 24 and I’ve seen the sign for the Chattanooga Choo Choo.  I always wanted to stop to see it.  But I never had.  Until today, that is.  Yep, there really is such a thing…

The real deal: The Chattanooga Choo Choo. It’s on display behind a hotel of the same name, just a hop, skip, and a jump from the Interstate and downtown Chattanooga’s other attractions.

This is my first visit to this fine southern city, and folks, I’m here to tell you:  Chattanooga is a fabulous town.  I had no idea.  This is a wonderful place, nestled along the Tennessee River close to the Georgia border.   The Chattanooga Choo Choo.  Lookout Mountain and Ruby Falls.  Moon Pies (yep, for real).   Great walking paths.  Nearby Chickamauga Battlefield National Park.  An incredible Civil War rifle collection.  Dining that makes the word “fabulous” seem wholly inadequate.  The verdict is in: I like this place!

So, what’s the deal with Moon Pies?  Hey, if you’ve never heard of Moon Pies, you need to get out more often.   And if you’ve never tasted one, well, trust me on this:   You owe yourself this treat.  It turns out that Chattanooga is where Moon Pies are made, you can get them in just about any local store, and there’s actually an official Moon Pie factory outlet in downtown Chattanooga.  That fact, all by itself, makes Chattanooga a bucket list destination!

Chattanooga: Home of the Moon Pie.
Heaven in multipack cartons. We bought several to bring home.
And we sampled a few, too. That other treat? That’s a Goo Goo, another local treat made in nearby Nashville, but that’s a story for another blog.

Lookout Mountain is another cool spot in Chattanooga, with an underground cave system that actually includes a 140-foot waterfall (all of which is underground).  Think Jules Verne and a journey to the center of the earth.  Yep, we hit it, too!

Deep in Lookout Mountain, headed for Ruby Falls.
Imagine what it must have been like to discover this while exploring an underground cave. Meet Ruby Falls, 140-ft tall, and all underground.

We had an incredible lunch at The 405, a place we just happened upon while walking around downtown.  The 405 is a Middle Eastern restaurant (I love Middle Eastern food) and it’s another one of Chattanooga’s best kept secrets.  I had a chicken shawerma sandwich and it was fabulous, with juicy roasted chicken, a perfect Tahini sauce, and pita bread made fresh on the premises.  I told our waitress I write a blog for the most discerning riders on the planet (that would be you), and the owner was at my table in a heartbeat.  It turns out that my new good buddy and restauranteur Rashad is one of us.  He rides a BMW sport bike, and we had a conversation about the great roads in the Chattanooga area.   Rashad told me you can ride 51 weeks out of the year in and around Chattanooga and the way he described the roads, this sounds like a place where I need to spend more time.  From my explorations around this region, I believe him.  I have to get back here.  And when you get out here, you have to try The 405.  Tell Rashad Joe sent you.

From downtown, it was a short ride to the Chickamauga and Chattahoochee National Military Park.   We were lucky.   It was Veteran’s Day, and the National Park Service was giving free guided tours.  I think they do that every day, but seeing this sacred place on this grand holiday (on the 100th Anniversary of the end of World War I) made it even more interesting.  Our guide was another new good buddy, in this case Ranger Chris.

Good buddy Ranger Chris on the Chickamauga battlefield.

Chris led a motor tour to three stops on the Chickamauga battlefield, and he made it come alive for us.  If you’ve never been to Chickamauga, my advice is to put it on your list.  Chickamauga and Gettysburg (fought just a few days apart) marked the turning point of the Civil War.   We thoroughly enjoyed Chris’ presentation and the tour.

One of the best parts of the Chickamauga stop was the visitor’s center.  It has several cannon on display, and a large map showing the battlefield.

Chris’s materials and his Ranger campaign hat. Good stuff at the Chickamauga visitor center.
The business end of one of many cannon on display at the Chickamauga site.

The Chickamauga visitor center also houses one of the best (probably the best) collection of Civil War rifles I’ve ever seen.   It seems a local engineer and gun collector named Claud Fuller had built a collection of some 5,000 firearms and he donated a portion of his collection for permanent display here.   They are magnificent.  This collection, all by itself, justifies a trip to the area.

One of several halls displaying Civil War rifles from the Fuller collection.
Fiddleback maple on a black powder rifle. These are beautiful firearms.
A presentation-grade Spencer. I could have spent all day just looking at these rifles.
Color case hardening on a Remington Hepburn rifle. This is amazing work.
Several Trapdoor Springfields on display. These fire the 45 70 cartridge, one of the all time greats. The second one from the right is an Officer’s Model Trapdoor Springfield. I had never seen one before. I would have joined the Army just to get one of these!

After spending the afternoon at Chickamauga, we had dinner at the 1885 restaurant in Chattanooga’s St. Elmo district.  I saw something on the menu I had never seen before:  Mushrooms and grits.  Hmmm, I wondered.  That sounded interesting.  And wow, was it ever!

Well, kiss my grits! This is before…
…and this is after. Yep, it was that good!

After dinner, our waitress recommended the cheese cake.  Hey, everything else had been amazing, so why not?

Lemon and cream cheesecake. It came with a discount coupon for the local Coronary Care Unit.

My dinner tonight was one of the finest I’ve ever enjoyed.  It was a great way to finish a Chattanooga visit.  I’m up for a summer ride in this area, and I’ll be back.   We’ll be home in California by the time you read this, and we’ll have a supply of Moon Pies for a short while.  Like my good buddy Reuben always says:  What a life!

The Atlantic Highlands…

New Jersey may not be a place you would ordinarily think of for a motorcycle ride, but I grew up back there and I’m here to tell you that you can have a good time on a motorcycle in the Garden State.   One of the rides I particularly like is along the Jersey shore from Pt. Pleasant to the Atlantic Highlands.  Once you’re in Pt. Pleasant, aim your front wheel north and do your best to hug the coastline.  It’s Highway 36 for much of that run (it’s called a highway, but it’s really a nice non-highway ride all the way up).   Your destination might be (as mine usually is) the Atlantic Highlands, Sandy Hook, and the Gateway National Recreation Area.

I have several recent photos from this area (I was there this past June), and rather than a long narrative, I thought I might simply share the captioned photos…

The view from Mt. Mitchill in the Atlantic Highlands, the highest point on the US east coast south of Maine. That’s the Manhattan skyline at the far horizon. The land across the bay is the actual “Sandy Hook.”
The 9/11 memorial atop Mt. Mitchill. The eagle is carrying an actual piece of I-beam from the Twin Towers. Everyone who lives around here knew people who died on that day.
Names of just a few who died in the Towers on the base of the 9/11 monument.
Another view of Sandy Hook Bay from Mt. Mitchell.
Sandy Hook Light, the oldest operating lighthouse in America. It was built in 1764, 12 years before American independence.
A Nike Ajax along Hartshorne Road, the entrance to the Gateway National Recreation Area, on the way into Fort Hancock.
The Nike Hercules air defense missile, directly across the street from the Nike Ajax shown above. These were a later missile, and they could be configured to carry a nuclear warhead.
Before Fort Hancock provided air defense for New York City, it used coastal artillery to protect the region from seaborne invaders. Some of these guns go back to the early 1800s.
Battery Potter, with steam-powered retractable hidden cannons. Sandy Hook was an early Army proving ground, and the advanced coastal artillery pieces hidden underground behind these walls were tested here. Boom boom!
Two young ladies checking out a hidden mortar base on Fort Hancock. The photo ops here are amazing.
An old Army building on Fort Hancock. Ah, the stories these places could tell…

And there you have it.   I like visiting New Jersey, and I never miss an opportunity to ride the Jersey shore.   I’m thinking it might make sense to keep a motorcycle back there.

Hmmmm…


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Burt’s stunning “I do” photo…

I posted this photo a year or so ago when I was writing the CSC blog, and it’s worth posting again.

Photo by good buddy Burt!

The Reader’s Digest version of the story goes like this:   When we did the Western America Adventure Ride (you can read all about that in 5000 Miles at 8000 RPM), one of the places my good buddy Baja John found to spend the night was Panguitch, Utah, just outside of Bryce Canyon National Park.  The area and the little town of Panguitch were a lot of fun, we were having a grand time, and then I got to feeling guilty.  That happens a lot on the group tours, and it’s because I’m not sharing the adventure with my girlfriend, Sue.   But I have an app for that…I do the trip again and bring Sue along.

Fast forward a couple of years, and Sue and I found ourselves waiting to be seated at the Cowboy BBQ, the best restaurant in Panguitch (there’s always a line to get in).  When we were seated, another couple came in behind us.  Burt saw my Nikon and asked if I was a photographer.   One thing led to another, and Sue and I and Burt and Roz had a great dinner that night.   We became good friends.

Fast forward a little more and Burt sent the above photo to me, but it was not just any photo.   Burt had just won a DPReview.com contest with it (the subject was newlyweds).

Nice work, Burt, and thanks for sharing your fabulous photo with us!

Petrified Forest National Park

Petrified Forest National Park, east of Flagstaff. It’s an awesome destination.

Sue and I recently completed a 2700-mile road trip in the Subie.   The idea was to drive a grand circle through the Southwest, with the apex of our trip being a visit with Joe Gresh at the Tinfiny Ranch in New Mexico.  I asked Joe what to see on the way out and back, and wow, did he have a great list.  Old Arjiu had a number of outstanding recommendations, one of which was the Petrified Forest in Arizona.  Petrified Forest National Park straddles I-40 (which was mostly built over old Route 66) and it was easy to get to.

The place sounded cool.  I’d never seen a petrified forest (or even a tree, for that matter).  I remembered being fascinated by dinosaurs and all things prehistoric when I was kid, and the concept of a petrified forest sure fit in that slot.

The Petrified Forest…wow.  As soon as Gresh mentioned the place, it became a bucket list item.  I had to see it.  We had to stop.

An abandoned car on what used to be Route 66.

Like I mentioned above, I-40 is mostly built over what used to be old US Route 66, and when you travel through Arizona, you see a lot of kitsch pertaining to The Mother Road.    The sun was in just the perfect location to bring out the best of my polarizer on the 16-35 Nikon lens when we stopped by an old abandoned automobile you see in the photo above.  There was a preserved stretch of Route 66 immediately behind it.   In that photo above, it looks like it was a deserted area.  Trust me on this: It was anything but.  There were tourists taking photos at that spot from Germany, Turkey, Portugal, Brazil, and more, and I can tell you from reading the body language they were all having a good time.  So were we.   We all took turns getting out of each other’s way as we took pictures.  It was fun.

We drove a little further down the road and came upon the area you see below.  This part of the National Park is called the Painted Desert, for obvious reasons…

The Painted Desert in central Arizona’s Petrified Forest National Park. The colors really are this dramatic. This stop was a grand suggestion from Uncle Joe Gresh.

I was struck by just how beautiful the Petrified Forest National Park was, and then it hit me…I had driven this stretch if I-40 on many motorcycle rides several times before, and it never occurred to me to stop.   Folks, take it from me:   Don’t make that mistake.  Although not as well known as other flagship US National Parks (Zion, Bryce, the Grand Canyon, Yellowstone, etc.), the Petrified Forest is a real gem.

Another view of the Painted Desert. It really is this dramatic.
Yet another perspective on the Painted Desert. This is good stuff, folks.

There’s only one road that meanders through the Petrified Forest National Park, with numerous strategically-located viewing stops along its length.   We hit nearly every one.

One such stop was Newspaper Rock.  We thought it would be a rock formation that looked like a newspaper, but it wasn’t that at all.  It was a collection of petroglyphs deep in a canyon.  The newspaper moniker was related to the idea that early Native Americans communicated with and left messages for each other here.   Fortunately, I had my 70-300 lens, and that allowed the reach I needed to get good images…

Cool stuff. Very early Native American newsprint.
The people who created these petroglyphs lived here about a thousand years ago. They predate the Native American tribes we know of.

While we were admiring the petroglyphs, a couple of crows landed nearby.  By that time I had already put the wide angle lens back on the Nikon, and I wanted to see just how close I could get before the crows flew away.  The big black birds were cool until Sue and I were about 4 feet away, and then they took off.  They were huge.  We actually heard the wind they created flapping their wings.

An old crow in the Petrified Forest National Park. It was a big bird.

The scenery and the roads were stark and colorful.  We stopped and I grabbed this photo of Sue and the Subie…

Sue and the Subie. My Outback was perfect for this kind of road trip. Over a distance of 2705.6 miles, the Subaru averaged 28.3 mpg. That included stints in the mountains, dirt roads, city driving, and many 75mph+ freeway stints.

You might be wondering…what about the petrified trees?  Where were they?

Well, we saw those, too…

Petrified trees. They are really cool. You can’t take them out of the Park, but once you leave the Park, there are souvenir stores selling things like this.
More petrified logs. As I understand it, over the millenia the wood leaches out and is replaced by silica until, oila, a petrified tree remains. It’s pretty cool stuff and this was the first time I’d ever seen it.

This was a great destination.  We exited I-40 on the eastern edge of the Petrified Forest and followed the road through the Park all the way to the western edge.   From there, you pick up an Arizona country road and follow it west for roughly 20 miles to Holbrooke, where you can get back on I-40.  Good times and a great destination.  You might want to add it to your list of places to see.  It’s worth a trip to Arizona all by itself, and it’s certainly worth a stop if you are passing through Arizona on Interstate 40.