By Mike Huber
Awakening the following day, I was eager to begin my second day on the Ha Giang Loop in northern Vietnam. Thankfully, the remainder of my first day on this road went without further incidents with local law enforcement.
As I continued northward in this beautiful mountainous region there wasn’t a day that went by where I wasn’t pulled over at least once. The officers I had paid the 8 million Dong to were true to their word as each time I was pulled over at license checkpoints the officer would pull out their phone and scroll through the many photos of tourists until I would stop them. “Right there! That’s me. See? I paid.”

The police officers then signaled me to be on my way. Outside a few verbal warnings to slow down, the police check points just became part of my daily routine as my journey continued.

Hitting the Vietnamese North Pole was one of my objectives along this ride. Starting off early in the morning was the best way to go. The early start was not only to avoid police check points and tourist traffic, but also to watch the mystical fog burn off the mountains as I weaved my way north. The roads were in pristine condition. The only thing more pristine was the green mountain views that unfolded as I powered through the corners. It was wonderful to have the road to myself, outside of the few meandering water buffalos that lazily crossed in front of me every so often.
Every day as afternoon approached, the police check points would appear. After a few days of constantly being pulled over to scroll through the police text thread, point out my photo, and on occasion be given a breathalyzer test (Vietnam has zero tolerance for driving under the influence), it began to get old. The road was filled with rental scooters. Most carried Westerners.

After four days of riding along the Ha Giang Loop, I reached my limit. I’d had enough of tourists, police stops, and crowds. Tigit Rental had written a solid itinerary, but at this point I needed more solace. I pulled into a coffee shop to see if there was another route I could take to deviate from the Ha Giang Loop (and there was). I hit smaller, less traveled roads. The coffee shop owner must have seen the frustration on my face as I zoomed through maps and roads to explore on my phone.
Using Google Translate with the shop owner, I described what I was looking for in terms of roads and a Vietnam experience. She quickly pointed out a direction. The roads she identified were remote and they met my criteria. The path would also send me north along the Chinese border, and then loop down to Hanoi. This would get me away from the Ha Giang Loop chaos.
Catch up with Huber in Vietnam:
Ha Giang Loop: Part 1
Ha Giang Loop: Part 2
Ha Giang Loop: Part 3
More Huber? Check out A Trip Into The Moment.

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After a month or two in southern Thailand spending the days scuba diving and embracing the sun it was time to head north. The previous year when I was in Chaing Mai I got sick off eating elephant poop, not intentionally but it had me leashed to a toilet for four or five days and ruined my entire itinerary. It was now time to return to Chaing Mai and steer clear of the elephants.








Upon returning to Katmandu my tour operator Kiran met me at the hotel with a new itinerary. One that would lift my spirits for sure. There was another trek I was contemplating, The Annapurna Circuit. It was a 17-day trek which was more remote than the Everest one. This would now replace the Everest Base Camp Trek. Kiran then added that upon completing the Annapurna Circuit I would helicopter from Katmandu to Lukla as rotary winged aircraft had much less restrictions in terms of visibility. All in all this would fill up a month and a half and allow me to hopefully complete both objectives (Annapurna and Everest Base Camp).
