Be a Professional Writer For ExhaustNotes!

Berk and I were discussing the challenges of taking on additional writers here at ExhaustNotes. We print new stories about every two days and while we appreciate our loyal readers it wouldn’t hurt to drag a bunch more subscribers into the fold. We’d like ExhaustNotes’ popularity to reflect the quality of the content and to increase ad revenue to match our prodigious output. Plus, younger, less jaded motorcyclists who actually like all the electronic junk manufacturers strap onto motorcycles would be kind of cool.

So we’ve decided to try a thing: Berk says the best way to increase Internet hits and ad revenue is to publish interesting stories from insightful and entertaining writers on a regular basis. To do that, ExhaustNotes will need more than just two guys typing in their spare time. We may need three.  Or four.  Or more.

I don’t know about you but I’m ready for some fresh new perspectives on motorcycling and with Berk pushing 72 and me pushing a crusty 65 we tend to give fresh new perspectives a bit of the old stinkeye. You’ll notice we type a lot of dream bike segments and none of them are modern bikes. Do not stand on our lawns.

Perspectives don’t have to be young to be fresh, just different. Let’s hear how you love the way your motorcycle makes all the power and braking decisions for the rider. Hey, you still get to steer… for now. Tell us about the biker lifestyle and how it differs from the cosplay actors at comic-com. Exactly how do you use a 200 horsepower, full-race motorcycle on the street and stay alive? Tell us in an interesting way and you’ll get paid for doing it!

How much will you make?

Glad you asked: ExhaustNotes uses a simple formula to calculate how much we earn. We take the total site income from advertisers and Google ads and subtract the expense of running the site. That gives us a pool of money to pay the writers. You won’t get paid by the word. For example, if revenue after expenses is $100 and we publish 100 stories then each story is worth $1. Now, say Berk writes 70 stories and I write 30 stories then Berk makes $70 and I make $30. This is the part where you new writers will come in: If we publish 5 stories from you then the split will reflect your contribution.  Berk divvies the money up twice a year, assuming there’s revenue.

On the surface this seems self-defeating, since you’ll be making the same amount per story as me and Berk then we must be losing money. Maybe not. The idea is to increase revenue, build the reader base and create a bigger pie. If it works we’ll all get filthy rich and go live with the prostitutes. Okay, maybe I can’t go live with the prostitutes but one of you guys might be able to.

We understand the unfairness of a 3000-word story earning the same as a 700-word story but life is full of unfair situations.  Writing for ExhaustNotes is just one more. Try to picture this whole ExhaustNotes website thing as a grand experiment that we are opening up to a wider pool of participants. Who knows what will happen?

If you’ve already been a guest columnist for ExhaustNotes you won’t get any money from your past stories. That ship has sailed. This new deal is going forward from today. Mike Huber’s Romanian travel story is the very first one of our new system.

A few other things you should know:  Berk is going to be the editor-in-chief and his word is final, meaning submitting is not the same as getting published.  Punctuation and grammar matter.  If Berk has to re-write your story to make it intelligible he probably won’t use it. ExhaustNotes only pays if we publish your story and we pay poorly at that. You retain all rights to your work and can do whatever you want with it. Remember: You are not going to make a ton of money doing this. If you feel our accounting methods are not strenuous enough don’t submit a story.

Having the proper mindset is critical.  Berk and I write ExhaustNotes for the fun of it. If you factor in our time, we lose money doing it and I see no good reason why you shouldn’t lose money writing for us, too. Any beer money that happens to come our way is gravy that we use to buy mini bikes and reloading components.  Topics are mostly motorcycle related with guns and construction materials thrown in, but any topic that is interesting will be considered. Everyone has to start somewhere; I started my writing career with a simple letter to the editor of The Key West Citizen. Let’s see what starts your writing career.

If you have a story you’d like to propose on motorcycles, guns, Baja, reloading, great rides, great roads, or any other topic you think would be of interest to our readers, email us with your story idea at info@exhaustnotes.us.


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The Perfect Motorcycle: A Specification

One of the things that always got a laugh when I worked in the motorcycle business were comments you’d hear from looky-loos who you knew weren’t going to buy (but they liked to act as if they were).  These folks wanted to wax eloquent and sound like they knew what they were talking about.  “If only they would (insert motorcycle feature here), I’d buy one in a heartbeat.”  If only, indeed.  They never did.  My disdain for the above notwithstanding, I thought I’d play.  You know:  If only they would…and this time I’ll fill in the blanks.   And with that as a starting point, here’s my specification for the perfect motorcycle.

1.  Tank You Very Much

For me it would have to have a teardrop gas tank that actually is a gas tank (no underseat gas tank silliness on the perfect motorcycle).   Something like the Bonneville or maybe the Enfield 650.   Guzzi had the right idea, and maybe the new CSC 400 twin is righteous, too.  Here a few perfect gas tanks:

Wow.
Wow again.
Wow selfified.

2. Wire Wheels, Please

I like wire wheels.  I know that cast wheels have advantages, but I don’t care.  I like spokes.  Wire wheels are what my perfect motorcycle needs.

It’s the spokes, folks. Nothing else works for me.
Can you picture this ivory classic BMW with cast wheels? Yeah, me neither. Notice the seat height, too. We’ll get to that shortly (pardon that pun).

3. Show Me The Motor!

I know fairings have advantages and I’ve owned a lot of motorcycles with fairings, but you need to be able to see the motor on a motorcycle.  There’s something blatantly weird about faired motorcycles when you take the fairings off:  They look like washing machines.  I want to see the engine and I want to see fins.  Lots of fins.   And cables and chrome, too.  If you want a sterile, all-the-ugly-stuff-hidden vehicle, buy a Prius.

The ancestor of all Facebook posters…get it? The Knucklehead?
Fins. Tubes. Polished metal. It all works.
Early excess…a Honda straight six CBX. I owned one of these for awhile. It was glorious. In a stroke of marketing genius, Honda didn’t hide the motor.
Jay Leno’s 1936 Henderson. He bought it from a 92-year-old who was getting a divorce and needed to raise cash, or at least that’s what he told me.
Perfection.

And while we’re talking about motors, let’s move on to the elephant in the perfect motorcycle conversation:  Displacement.

4. Displacement: Less is More

114 cubic inches?  2300 cubic centimeters?  That’s automobile territory and then some. As you-know-who would say in one of his rare lucid moments:  C’mon, man.

BMW? Harley? KTM? Honda?

If you need something to give expression to your masculinity, buy a pickup truck or a Model 29.  Or maybe a 458 Win Mag.  For me, something up to maybe 650cc is good.  Less would be better, provided it can meet all the other things in this dreamsheet spec.

5. The Paint

The paint has to be world class.  Harley gets that right.  Triumph had it right back in the day.  Chome and paint works.  So does pinstriping.   Thank God that silly flat black fad passed.  Nope, I like paint that looks good.  Ever seen a jellybean Ducati?

Nobody will ever outstyle the Italians. This one is in the Doffo collection.

6. We Don’t Need No Stinkin’ LCDs or TFTs!

I don’t need to sit behind a NORAD computer display.  I like two big analog dials; one for the speedometer and the other for the tach.   The ’65 Triumph Bonneville had the right idea; the 750 Honda enlarged both and that was even better.  Seeing those two big cans sitting just ahead of the handlebars works for me.

Speed and RPM: Is anything else really necessary?

7. Getting Gassed

I’d like a 250-mile range.  I stop more frequently, but I’d like the bike to be able to go that far without the fuel light coming on, which I guess means the range needs to be even more than 250 miles.  It drives me nuts when the fuel light starts blinking at just over 100 miles and I know there’s still another 50 miles or so left in the tank.

You meet fun people in Baja Pemex stops.

8.  Southern Comfort

A comfortable seat is a must, but truth be told, if you spend all day, day after day on a motorcycle, I’ve never found any that are what I would call comfortable.   If a motorcycle seat can just make the “not uncomfortable” threshold, I’m good.  And although I almost never take a passenger on my bike, I’d like to have a bike that seats two.

Casual elegance in Xi’an 35 years ago. The right spot at the right time…what photography is all about.

9. Down and Dirty

You know, I don’t need a GS to go offroad.   Neither do you.  They’re too big, too heavy, and too tall.  They look good at a Starbuck’s, but I’m not going to spend $5 for a cup of coffee.  I remember back in the day (for me, that would be the 1960s) when we took Hondas and Triumphs and BSAs off road all the time and thought nothing of it.  We didn’t call it “adventure” riding, either…we just called it riding. We didn’t need a marketing guy and a decal to make our bikes off road capable.  I’ve even gone off road with a Harley Softail, although maybe that was taking things a bit far.  I guess what I’m saying is I’d like a bike to be light enough and the seat height to be reasonable, and I’m good to go for any off road requirements that bubble up in my travels.

The FLH-AS in the salt fields of Guerrero Negro, B.C.S. “AS” stands for Adventure Scrambler.

10. Just Say No To Stratospheric Seat Heights

The seat height should not be higher than about 30 inches.  An inch or two lower would be even better.  I understand that mucho suspension travel is muey macho for some, but a lot of motorcycles have gone crazy.  I don’t know anyone with a 37-inch inseam.  I don’t know if there are enough basketball players to justify a motorcycle that most of us would need a step ladder to mount.

It’s on the AutoCad screens somewhere in Bavaria, you know.

11. Fat City

Weight should be under 400 pounds.  It’s doable, guys.  Some of today’s bikes are approaching a thousand pounds.  That’s nuts.  Under 400 pounds works for me; less would be ever better. If my motorcycle drops, I want to be able to pick it up by myself.  The 1966 Triumph Bonneville my Dad rode weighed 363 pounds. If you’ve gotta have the Gold Wing, why not just go for the RV?

Yup.

12. Freeway Capable

We live in the age of the Interstate.  Two-lane country roads are nice and they make for good advertising photography, but it’s not the 1950s anymore.  Yeah, I try to enjoy back roads, but like everybody else, I get on the freeway when I want to cover big miles.  A bike that can cruise comfortably at 75 or 80 mph has to be part of the spec.  The funny thing is, you don’t need a monster bike to do that.  Gresh and I rode across China on CSC 250cc motorcycles, and about a third of that was freeway driving.

Riding the freeways across the Gobi Desert. Note the two-abreast Chinese car carriers.
Gobi Gresh on a Chinese interstate (or should that be interprovince?) highway.

13. What’s In A Name?

I’d be okay with some kind of alphanumeric quasi-military  designation or a cool sounding noun, like Bonneville or Electra-Glide or MT06.  The weird noun “INT” adorns my Enfield only because the Mumbai boys didn’t want to take on Honda (they should; Royal Enfield had an Interceptor way before Honda did).  I’m okay with a Chinese motorcycle, but it would have to have a good name (Cool Boy won’t cut it here).   The first RX3s in America had a tank panel emblazoned with Speed (hey, I can’t make this stuff up); I caught some online flak about that.  I countered it by telling the keyboard commandos we wanted Methamphetamine, but the font became too small when we tried to fit it on the tank.  BSA used to have great names, like Spitfire and Thunderbolt.   Those could work.  Here are a few others I thought you might like to see.

Nah. That won’t work.
Nah, that won’t work, either.
Yeah, maybe…
The Docker. You could buy matching slacks. You know. Dockers.
Like the candy bar. Sweet!
Zarang me, Zarang me, they ought to take a rope and hang me…

14. Pipe Up!

A motorcycle has to be visually and aurally balanced.  To me, that includes chrome exhaust pipes on both sides of the motorcycle (like you see on that gorgeous Norton in the big photo above, and in the Beezer below).  Low pipes or high, either are okay by me.  Back in the 1960s Yamaha had the Big Bear (now there’s a great name) with upswept chrome exhausts on either side of the bike and I thought that was perfect.  Any of the ’60s British street twins were perfect, especially Triumphs and BSAs.  Flat black stamped steel with flanged welds on only one side of the bike (like my KLR 650) are an abomination.

British chrome symmetry. We could learn a thing or two from that era.

And, of course, the ExhaustNote: The perfect motorcycle has to sound like the perfect motorcycle.  That means a low rumble, but not something so lopey it sounds like a Harley, and certainly not something that sounds like a sewing machine or (worse yet) a small car.  Think mid-60’s Triumph Bonneville.  That is a motorcycle that sounds like a motorcycle.


So there you have it.  Got comments?  Let’s hear them.  Post them here on the blog, and you’ll have a friend for life.  And do a friend a favor: Click on the ads in this blog!

Phavorite Photos: Chongqing at Night

A day or two before Joe Gresh and I began our ride across China on Zongshen RX3 motorcycles, the Chinese took us to dinner in Chongqing, the megacity in which the Zongshen company is located.  It was a typical summer night in Chongqing, which is to say it was hot, humid, and steamy. Sultry is a word that comes to mind.  Exotic is another one.

Chongqing is where two of the world’s great rivers meet (the Jialing and the Yangtze).  Downtown Chongqing is in the center.  We were returning from dinner on the south shore of the Yangtze River (the lower river in the map) when I grabbed the photo you see above with my Nikon.  Where it says Yuzhong…we were right about where the g is in that word.

Chongqing is huge.  How big?  We think New York is big (and it is) with 8 million people.  Chongqing has 34 million people.  It’s hard to imagine, and it’s hard to imagine we rode 250cc motorcycles through it (as well as many other Chinese megacities).  I like everything about Chongqing, and you’ll see more favorite photos from there in upcoming ExNotes blogs. But this one stands out for me.

You can read more about what we saw in China in Riding China.


Earlier Phavorite Photos?  You bet!  Click on each to get their story.


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Phavorite Photos: Wenchuan Woman

There are photogenic people in Wenchuan.  One is the Wenchuan man I described in a previous Phavorite Photos blog, and another is the young lady shown in the large photo above.  For lack of a better name, I’ll call her Apple Annie.  Some of you folks my age or older might remember the 1961 feel-good film A Pocketful of Miracles, in which Bette Davis played a character named Apple Annie.

Bette Davis has nothing on our Wenchuan Apple Annie.  After Gresh and I got out of the Wenchuan police station (we had to register as foreigners), we were walking along a main street through Wenchuan.   Apple Annie was selling fruits and vegetables on the sidewalk, and somehow her bushel full of apples tipped over.  Before you could say “Oh, no!” in Mandarin, apples literally rolled into four lanes of busy Wenchuan traffic.  That’s when our pocketful of miracles occurred:  Traffic absolutely stopped, Gresh hopped into the street before Annie or I realized what had happened, and then we jumped in, too, along with a bunch of other Chinese good Samaritans.   As traffic patiently waited (not one horn honked), we recovered every one of Annie’s apples.  She gave Gresh and I one as a small thank you, along with the beautiful smile you see above.

In 2008, Wenchuan had one of the largest earthquakes in recorded history (a magnitude 8.0 quake), and between 65,000 to 80,000 people died.  Something like 80% of the buildings in Wenchuan collapsed.

Some of the damaged buildings were left standing as a tribute to Wenchuan’s victims.  We saw those.  People are resilient, perhaps even more so in Wenchuan.  You can read more about what we saw in Wenchuan and elsewhere in China in Riding China.


Earlier Phavorite Photos?  You bet!  Click on each to get their story.


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Grand Canyon National Park

Arizona’s Grand Canyon National Park is another bucket list destination.  As As was the case described in our recent blog on Devils Tower, a movie inspired my first visit.  A contemporay review of the 1991 Grand Canyon movie said it was about “random events affecting a diverse group of people exploring the race- and class-imposed chasms which separate members of the same community.”  That’s an artsy-fartsy tinsel-town mouthful.  Grand Canyon was pretty good and it had some big name actors in it.  But we’re not here to talk about the movie.

On to Grand Canyon National Park. The name sounds majestic, and the Grand Canyon surely is.  I’ve been to the Grand Canyon many times (it’s only a day’s ride from home) and I would not pass on an opportunity to see it again.  It’s a great ride in a car or on a motorcycle. I’ve done full-family car trips and I’ve done a number of motorcycle trips. Interestingly, some of the best rides were on the 250cc CSC RX3 motorcycles with guys from China, Colombia, and the US (you can read more about the RX3 trip in 5000 Miles At 8000 RPM).

A Grand Canyon photo from the 5000-mile Western America Adventure Ride.

There are two places to see the Grand Canyon National Park, the North Rim and the South Rim. The South Rim is by far the most heavily visited area and offers the best views, but the North Rim is a better ride, especially the last 50 miles or so along Arizona Route 67 (also known as the North Rim Parkway). Getting to the South Rim involves riding through a spectacular desert to get to Grand Canyon National Park, at which point you enter a beautiful pine forest. And when you visit the South Rim, you can continue on in the direction you were traveling when you leave — you don’t have to backtrack. The North Rim is different: There’s one way in, and one way out. It takes longer to get to the North Rim along heavily-forested Route 67 (and that road shuts down when it snows), but wow, what a ride!

My first Grand Canyon visit brought me and a riding buddy to the North Rim on a couple of Harleys nearly 30 years ago. It rained all the way in, we were thoroughly soaked and chilled, and I still remember how much fun I had. The Grand Canyon Lodge is the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow. It’s a magnificent place to stay or you can just have lunch there.  The view is awesome, but I think the views from the South Rim are even better (and there are more vantage points).

Ah, the South Rim. That’s where I took the big photo at the top of this blog and it shows none other than world-famous concrete consultant and moto-journalist Joe Gresh.  It almost looks fake, like I had a cutout of Gresh and pasted it into the photo, but it’s not.  He’s just a very photogenic guy.

You can approach the South Rim from either the east or the west via state Route 64 running along the canyon’s southern edge. On my last trip, we came in from the eastern end, paid our fees to enter the park, and a helpful Ranger explained that there were a series of viewpoints along the way. We hit every one and each was beyond stunning. It’s hard to believe what you see when viewing this magnificent region, and it’s easy to understand why the early Spanish explorers concluded it was impossible to reach the Colorado River a mile below. You can see all the way to the North Rim (10 miles away as the hawk flies, but a full day on a motorcycle).  On a clear day you can see 100 miles.

The Tower at the eastern edge of the South Rim.

There’s an ancient tower of sorts on the easternmost viewing spot along the South Rim and we had an interesting experience there on the CSC Destinations Deal tour.  Our good buddy Orlando left his gloves on this new RX3 while we were taking in the view, and when we returned, we caught a thief red-handed trying to steal them.   Or rather, I should say red-beaked.  It was a big old crow (a bird, not the whiskey) and he was trying to make off with one of Orlando’s gloves.  We all started screaming at that big old blackbird, and it dropped the glove and flew away.  That was a good thing.  It was super cold that morning and Orlando would have had a tough time continuing the ride without both gloves.

Good buddy Rob giving a Grand Canyon elk a drink on the CSC Destinations Deal ride.  Don’t try this at home, kids.

The earliest known Grand Canyon habitation occurred during the Paleo-Indian period nearly 12,000 years ago, but the emphasis here is on “known.” Archeologists are still discovering ancient stuff down there. Geologically, the Grand Canyon started about 20 million years ago.  The Colorado River, flooding, ice, wind and seismic shifts worked their magic to create the 277-mile-long, 15-mile-wide, and mile-deep Grand Canyon.

Fine dining in Williams’ Red Raven restaurant, right on Old Route 66.  That’s me and good buddy Paul after a wild boar hunt.

Hey, here’s one more thought:  If you’re doing the South Rim, it’s something that you can take in in a day.  Most folks stay in Grand Canyon Junction just outside the entrance to the South Rim, but that’s a real touristy area and if you don’t like McDonald’s or pizza, your dining choices are limited.  My advice is to stay in Williams, about one hour south.  It’s just off I-40.  Williams is a bit touristy, too, but the hotels and restaurants are a cut above what’s in Grand Canyon Junction.  It’s a nice ride north to the South Rim early the next morning.   Trust me on this; you can thank me later.


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A Note From Zuo

Timely, perhaps…with the reactions we received on our recent Nine Reasons You Should Ride A Chinese Motorcycle blog, I received a nice email from Sergeant Zuo, the man who led our ride across China a few short years ago.


大舅:

最近可好?我买了宗申RX3S,是老版的,排气量380cc,RX3已经8年9.6万公里了。我们国家的机动车有强制报废的规定,所以我还是再换一台摩托车吧,谁让我喜欢呢。RX3我就再怎么喜欢还得卖掉,因为我们小区车棚里我只能申请一个车位,所以还是给RX3找个喜欢她的人吧。

我们这里的疫情是好是坏,你们那里的疫情好点了吗?一定保护好自己。

有一个知道我和你是好朋友的朋友说过:“真正的中美友谊在民间。”我非常喜欢这句话,送给你。

随信寄去几张我的RX3S的照片。(我发给你的信和照片你怎么使用都行)。非常想念你,我的朋友!代我向你的爱人,家人问好,特别是你的几个孙子。

——— 左振义 2021.10.16 中国•兰州


What, you don’t read Chinese?  Okay, here you go:

Uncle:

How are you doing recently? I bought the Zongshen RX3S, which is an old version with a displacement of 380cc. The RX3 has been 96,000 kilometers in 8 years. Our country’s motor vehicles have mandatory scrapping regulations, so I’d better replace them with a motorcycle. Who makes me like it. No matter how much I like RX3, I have to sell it, because I can only apply for one parking space in our carport, so let’s find someone who likes RX3.

Is the epidemic situation here for good or bad? Is the epidemic situation there any better? Be sure to protect yourself.

A friend who knows that you and I are good friends once said: “The real Sino-US friendship is among the people.” I like this sentence very much and I give it to you.

Enclosed are some photos of my RX3S. (You can use the letter and photos I sent you anyway). Miss you very much, my friend! Say hello to your wife and family, especially your grandchildren.

——— Zuo Zhenyi 2021.10.16 China•Lanzhou


Here are a couple of additional photos that Zuo sent to us:

So there you have it.  That “uncle” business…I used to be a secret agent, you know, the Man from U.N.C.L.E., and…nah, just kidding.  The Chinese named me Big Uncle and they called Gresh Little Uncle when we rode across China with them.  The Chinese words are Da Jiu and Ar Jiu (Big Uncle and Little Uncle) and the “jiu” parts sounds a lot like Joe, so it was kind of a natural fit.


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Want to ride with us as we crossed China?  Hey, it’s all right here!

Cannibalize, mayhem, and other mototerms

Gee, I was gonna buy the RX3 and then I heard they were coming out with the RX4.  Then I was gonna buy the RX4 and I heard they were coming out with a 400cc twin.   Then I was gonna buy the 400cc twin and I heard they were coming out with a 650cc twin.  Then I was gonna buy the 650 and I heard about this new 850cc Zongshen adventure bike.

I’m going to guess the above is a thought that has trickled through more than a few minds.   It’s what I’m guessing occurs everytime Zongshen announces or leaks (I’m not sure what the appropriate word should be) that they have something newer, bigger, and better coming down the pike (like the RX850 you see above).  Webster defines mayhem as “needless or willful damage or violence” (in a criminal context it’s the intentional mutilation or disfigurement of another human being) and Dictionary.com defines cannibalize as “to cut into; cause to become reduced; diminish.”  Both words (i.e., cannibalize and mayhem) somehow seem relevant to Zongshen’s marketing practice of announcing new models just as (and sometimes even before) the preceding displacement model enters the marketplace.  You’d think it would cannibalize sales of the models currently in showrooms, especially given our brainwashed belief that more displacement is always a good thing.

But what do I know?   I sell one or two used motorcycles every decade or so, while Zongshen sells something like a million new motorcycles every year.  I suspect companies selling Zongs both here and in other countries sell every bike they get (I know that’s the case with CSC, and I’ve seen it to be the case in Colombia).  I once had a guy write to me who wanted to buy two RX3s so he and his wife could tour Colombia, but he couldn’t find a dealer in Colombia who wasn’t sold out.  He wrote to me after reading Moto Colombia to ask if I could intervene with the AKT Motos general manager (I did, good buddy Enrique obliged, and that couple’s ride through magical Colombia went well).

My advice?  Buy what you can get now.  The 650 Zongshen hasn’t even hit the streets yet, so don’t wait for it or the RX850 you see above.  If you want to have a lot of fun for a little money, any of the available Zongs will serve you well.  I put a lot of miles on my RX3 and I got good money when I sold it 5 years later.

Oh, one more word I wanted to address, and it’s an adjective:  Dormant.  Webster defines it as being asleep or inactive.  It is a word that is not in Zongshen’s dictionary.


Epic motorcycle rides on Zongshens, Harleys, KLRs, Enfields, and more?  It’s all right here!

Phavorite Photos: Alone in China

We were somewhere in China approaching Aba after leaving the Tibetan Plateau, and somehow it was just Gresh, Sergeant Zuo, and me.  I can’t remember why we were separated from the rest of our group.  Honking along at a brisk pace and blitzing through one area after another, the photo ops were flying by and I wanted to capture at least some of them with my Nikon.

I finally caught up with Zuo and Gresh and flagged them over.  I asked if I could go back a mile or two and they said they would wait.  We had passed a Buddhist temple with a gold roof.  The overcast skies, the green mountains, the asphalt, my orange and muddy RX3…all the colors clicked.  I needed to commit that memory to the SD card.

When I turned around, I was surprised at how long it took to return to the spot you see above (I think we were on China’s G317 highway, but it might have been the G213).  Then I felt fear:  What if Gresh and Zuo didn’t wait for me?  I don’t speak the language, I had no cell coverage, and I wouldn’t be able to find my way back to wherever.  It was like being in outer space. It was just one of those crazy psycho unreasonable moments that sometimes hits when you realize you’re not in control of the situation.  I snapped a few photos, they looked good enough on the camera’s display, and I wound out the RX3 to get back to my compañeros as quickly as possible.  They had waited.  I was in clover.

About a month later as we approached Beijing some of the street signs were in both Chinese and English, and it was obvious Beijing was directly ahead.  Gresh told me he felt better because if we had to we could find our way home.  I guess I wasn’t the only one having those “out in the boonies” feelings.  It happens.


Earlier Phavorite Photos?  You bet!  Click on each to get their story.


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Nine Reasons Why You Should Ride A Chinese Motorcycle

Sometimes we’ll do a blog just to get folks fired up, you know, like the mainstream media does.  And if there’s one thing we’ve learned, it’s that there’s no better format for lighting a fire than a listicle.  Listicles get lots of hits, they’re fun to write, and they offend the easily offended.  If the topic is controversial, all three reasons are amplified.  With that as an introduction and in these times of human rights violations, a new cold war, and a town called Wuhan, what could be more controversial than a list of reasons why you should ride a Chinese motorcycle?

Reason 1:  Cost

Hey, what can I say?  Buy a Beemer or a Ducati or a KTM, and you’ll pay twice what those bikes should cost.  Buy a Harley….well, I don’t need to finish the sentence.  Triumphs and the Big 4 Japanese bikes cost about what I think they ought to, but a Chinese bike will be way lower than any of these.  And when you buy a Chinese motorcycle, you probably won’t do so through a conventional motorcycle dealer, so you won’t get bent over a barrel on freight and setup fees.

Nearly $1600 on freight and setup on a $6600 motorcycle!

Chinese motorcycles simply cost less.  And if you want to come back at me by claiming Chinese bikes have no resale value…well, read on, Grasshopper.

Reason 2:  Resale Value

This one may surprise you.  The argument you hear from online motorcycle wizards (when they’re not being online military strategists, political scientists, or infectious disease experts) is that Chinese motorcycles have no resale value. I’m sure glad the guys who bought the two Chinese motorcycles I bought new and rode for several years didn’t know that.  When I advertised my RX3 and TT 250, one sold the same day for 60% of what it cost new; the other sold the next day for 70% of what it cost new. And that was after I’d owned those bikes for 5 years.

My TT 250 on Route 66.  Freight and setup on the motorcycle in the photo above would have nearly paid for this bike!

I suppose I could have taken that money and bought a used Sportster, but I went another route:  I bought an Indian motorcycle.  Not Indian as in Scout or Chief, but Indian as in chicken masala or curry.  I wasn’t getting into enough catfights riding a Chinese motorcycle, I guess.

Reason 3:  Reliability

This is another advantage that will put those who know so much that just isn’t so in low earth orbit.   I never had a breakdown on any of my Chinese bikes, and that includes big trips in the US, a ride around China (yep, China), a circumnavigation of the Andes Mountains in Colombia, and lots of Baja.  I led tours in the Southwest and up and down Baja for CSC Motorcycles, with 8 to 15 bikes on each of those thousand-mile-plus trips, with only one bike ever needing to be trailered home.

You can tell me about your buddy who knows a guy whose cousin bought a Chinese bike and had problems with it, but I know you know not of what you speak.  I’ve been there.  I know different.  I know a little bit about reliability engineering, too.   The Chinese bikes I’ve been around are supremely reliable.

Reason 4:  Performance

Will a Chinese bike smoke a Hayabusa?  You know the answer to that.  Or at least, you know the answer today.   Look at what’s coming down the road from China and your answer may not ring true for much longer.  China has at least a couple of liter bikes on the horizon.  They won’t be slow.

What’s coming down the pike from Chongqing…

Within their displacement classes, the Chinese bikes perform as good as, or maybe even better than the small displacement bikes from Germany or Japan.

Deutschland? Nein! Das ist ein Mumbai maschinen!
Japanese? Nope. This puppy will help you Thai one on.

Hell, those other bikes aren’t even made where you think they’re made.  Ask me how I know.  Want some Pad Thai with your KLR or Triumph Bonneville?

Reason 5:  Self-Reliance

“But there’s no dealers!” or so goes the anti-China whine.  (Actually, China has some good wines, but I digress.)   With regard to the lugubrious (look it up)  “there’s no dealer” wails, I have two responses.

I used to be able to say that I’ve seen the same number of BMW, Harley, KTM, and other big name dealers in Baja as I saw for Chinese manufacturers (that number was zero).  But I can’t say that anymore.  Italika (a Mexican company, the Romanesque name notwithstanding) now imports Zongshens to Mexico, so you’ll actually have better dealer coverage in Mexico with a Chinese bike than you would with a BMW, a Harley, a Triumph, a Ducati, or any other other macho man motorcycle.  It’s even more pronounced if your travels take you to South America; Chinese bikes are all over down there.

So that’s one response; the other is:  You say “there are no dealers” like it’s a bad thing.  Maybe my life experiences are unique, but I don’t think so.  Whenever I’ve had work done by dealers, most of the time it was so poorly executed I had to do it over myself. I’d rather save the time and cut the cost associated with letting some kid learn motorcycle maintenance on my bike (while the dealer charges me $125 per hour as Junior learns). Nope, not having dealers is a good thing.

It’s from India and it runs as well as a Chinese motorcycle, which is to say, it’s good.  I do all the routine maintenance on the Enfield myself.

I know this approach is not for everybody.  Some guys like working on their bikes, some guys like Starbucks, some guys like clutches that rattle, and some guys like tattoos and chrome.  Whatever floats your boat.

Reason 6:  Fuel Economy

Both my Chinese 250s sipped fuel like The New York Times ingesting truth serum.  My carbureted TT 250 got about 60 miles per gallon; my fuel injected RX3 always did better than 70 miles per gallon.

Fuel economy as good as a car!

My last Harley was a 40-miles-per-gallon bike when new, and when I put an S&S stroker motor in it, it joined the  33-miles-per-gallon club and I received a personal thank you note from the Emir.  Yamaha’s old V-Max got 27 mpg.  Yeah, I know, there’s a huge difference in displacement between a Harley and a China bike.  But if you don’t like spending $5 bucks a gallon for Biden gas, a Chinese motorcycle can lessen the pain.

Reason 7:  Style

You know, all those years I rode an RX3, the keyboard commandos criticized the bike for copying BMW’s styling.

Gobi Gresh, on a Chinese motorcycle, riding in the Gobi desert. 6000 miles in the ancient kingdom with nine other riders on China bikes, and nobody missed a beat.

Hell, I can’t see much of a difference in any of the ADV bikes’ styling for the last 15 or 20 years.  They all look like the illegitmate offspring of a wasp mating with an armored personnel carrier.  It’s the ADV style.  I think it looks good.  And unlike the Teutonic Tower bikes (you know, the Special K and GoSlow machines), I could get my leg over the RX3’s saddle.

Reason 8:   Individuality

At one of the Love Rides (do they still even do those anymore?) Jay Leno was the grand marshall, and when he got up on stage, he asked if anybody had seen his buddy.  “You know, the gray-haired guy with the black Harley T-shirt and pot belly…”  It got a good laugh, but a lot of rugged individualist podiatrists, dentists, lawyers, and other pseudo-bad-asses were looking around nervously.   You know what I mean. The folks at the River Runs could be made by a cookie cutter.  Their moms all dress them the same.  BMW riders?  Stop in at any Starbuck’s and check out the Power Rangers inside. It’s the same deal.

One of the Hollister events, where all the individualists converge.  They’re all trying to be Marlon Brando.

Ride a Chinese motorcycle, though, and you’ll stand apart.  Trust me on this…you won’t bump into too many people riding a Zongshen or a Loncin at the Rock Store.  Other riders may make snarky comments about your bike in ignorance, without knowing where many of the parts on their bikes are made (that’s because their manufacturers try to keep it a secret, as explained below).

Reason 9:  You May Already Be On A Chinese Motorcycle…

…but you just don’t know it.  Some bikes that you think are made in Japan are actually completely manufactured in China.  Others have significant Chinese content.  I’m not just talking bits and pieces…I’m referring to castings, electronics, and in some cases, the complete engine (it’s no accident you sometimes hear Chinese factory technicians humming the Horst Wessel song).  You ubermensch riders on a first-name basis with your barristas know who you are, but did you know you’re already riding a China bike?  I know…we live in a free country.  If you feel comfortable spending $5 for a cup of coffee when you should be buying 技术支持隆鑫 decals (it means Powered by Loncin) for your $1800 panniers, more power to you.


So there you have it.  I could make excuses and blame this entire blog on Gresh (the topic was his idea), but that’s not me.  And for all you guys who look at the Chinese motorcycles I’ve owned and tell me “You Coulda Bought A Used Sportster” (sung to the tune of I’m A Yankee Doodle Dandy), well, all I can say is “heh heh heh.”


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Phavorite Photos: Wenchuan Man

It was the fourth or fifth day Joe and I had been on the road in China, and we were headed up to the Tibetan Plateau.  I think I can safely say that Gresh and I were the only two Americans in Wenchuan that day based on the fact that we were taken to the city’s police department to fill out forms and let them know we were there (it was the only place in China we had to do that).

Wenchuan is a lively town, and the next morning we were enjoying what had already become a routine breakfast of hardboiled eggs and Chinese fry bread on the sidewalk when a bus stopped in front of us.  The fellow you see above stepped off and looked at us quizzically (we didn’t quite look like Wenchuanians).  I asked if I could take a photo by holding up my Nikon.  He nodded his head, I shot the photo you see above, and he was gone.  The entire encounter lasted maybe two seconds, but that photo is one of my China ride favorites.  His expression could be used in a book on body language.


Three earlier favorite photos, one in Bangkok, one in Death Valley, and one in Guangzhou.  Click on them to get to their story.