Back in the 1970s I was a falling plate competitor. That competition involved knocking over a set of steel plates at a relatively short distance, usually with something in .38 Special or .45 ACP. In those days, nobody competed with a 9mm; the 9mm pistols had not made the inroads they enjoy today. A lot of guys competed with 1911s or modified K-frame S&Ws; I was a bit of an oddball and I used an N-frame Smith and Wesson .44 Magnum (with light .44 Specials, as the shot-to-shot recovery was faster and the .44 Special easily knocked the plates down). We shot from the ready position, with the gun held at an angle to the ground. The video below gives you an idea what the falling plate game looks like:
There were variations of this competition. The most exciting one was a bowling pin competition, which involved clearing a half dozen bowling pins from a table. In that one, you needed a .44 or a .45; the .38 Special didn’t have the energy to clear a bowling pin off the table. Both competitions were all about speed; whoever knocked all the plates over (or blew away all of the bowling pins) in the shortest time won.
Other similar competitions involved drawing the gun from a holster, and I wanted to shoot my AMT Long Slide Hardballer, a really cool 7-inch-barreled 1911. It’s the one Arnold Schwarzenegger used in Terminator.
An AMT (Arcadia Machine and Tool) Long Slide Hardballer. The story on it is here.
I needed a holster long enough to hold the Long Slide AMT 1911, and at that time there were none on the market. Other holsters could hold either 5-inch or 4 ¼-inch 1911s, but nobody had anything for the 7-inch AMT. Hold that thought. I’ll come back to it shortly.
I’ve written about good buddy Mike here on the blog before. Mike and I have been buddies since junior high school. He went on to become Chief of the New Brunswick Police Department. We still talk every week. Mike deputized me a couple of times when he attended the International Association of Chiefs of Police conventions. I’d always ask for a gun, and the answer was always no. But we had a lot of fun at those conventions.
The Director at the International Association of Chiefs of Police 2023 convention. I was his administrative assistant on that adventure. That story is here.
Mike called me last week. He was pumped up. He found his old New Brunswick Police Department duty holster from the days when they carried Heckler & Koch P7M8 9mm squeeze cocker semi-autos. That was the gun the New Jersey State Troopers adopted back in the ‘80s.
A New Jersey State Trooper Heckler & Koch P7M8 and its Tex Shoemaker holster.The NJSP emblem embossed on the Tex Shoemaker holster.
The New Jersey State Police had custom holsters crafted for their handguns by the Tex Shoemaker company, a legend in the holster business. They also had Shoemaker emboss the NJSP emblem in the leather. Not to be outdone, the New Brunswick Police Department also adopted the Heckler & Koch P7M8 9mm semi-auto, and they, too went to Tex Shoemaker for holsters embossed with the NBPD emblem. Mike had one when he served, and it was this holster he recently found. The Tex Shoemaker H&K police duty holsters have become collectible items, with this particular model appearing on Ebay for $300. Mike is going to donate his to the New Brunswick Police Department Headquarters display case. I think that’s pretty cool.
Good buddy Mike’s Heckler & Koch P7M8 Tex Shoemaker holster.The Heckler & Koch P7M8 holster with an embossed New Brunswick Police department emblem.
So I was thinking about this story and Mike’s holster and then I remembered: Hey, I have a Tex Shoemaker holster, and mine is brand new. The Tex Shoemaker company was located in San Dimas, which is not very far from my home. They closed up shop in 2019 (I’m assuming it fell victim to the pandemic, the move toward plastic holsters, and competition from the plastic holster manufacturers). Whatever the reason, it’s a pity. Shoemaker’s was an old line holster manufacturer started by Tex Shoemaker, a former lawman who started out making holsters in his garage. Their quality was unsurpassed.
When I needed a quick draw holster for my anticipated pistol competition (as described at the beginning of this blog), I couldn’t find anyone in the ‘80s who was making a holster for the AMT Long Slide Hardballer. I searched the yellow pages for holster companies (this was all pre-Internet), and that’s when I learned that the Tex Shoemaker company was nearby. I called them and explained what I wanted. I spoke with a nice guy who told me he didn’t know of anybody making a holster for the Long Slide 1911, but Shoemaker was experimenting with a new break-front holster that would handle all 1911 barrel lengths. He explained that it wasn’t on the market yet, but I could swing by and take a look at it.
My AMT Long Slide in it’s Tex Shoemaker experimental holster.The Tex Shoemaker logo.
Sue and I rode over to Shoemaker’s that day. It was a factory and they didn’t have a retail facility, so I walked up to the loading dock, looked up at a guy standing above me, and explained why I was there. A minute later that same nice guy I had spoken with on the phone appeared with the holster he told me about on the phone. I had my Long Slide with me and we tried the big 1911 in it; the fit was perfect. He also had two magazine holders (together they could hold four magazines). The holster was just what the doctor ordered, and I told him that even though it wasn’t commercially available yet, I’d like to buy it. He smiled, gave all three items to me, and told me there was no charge.
The Tex Shoemaker holster is adjustable for draw angle. It’s a cool feature.For normal carry, the pistol is secured with a cross strap.For quick draw work, the cross strap is removed. The holster has a strong clamp spring inside the leather that secures the pistol. When drawn, the pistol can be snapped forward without withdrawing upward from the holster.The Long Slide Hardballer, the Tex Shoemaker holster, and two Tex Shoemaker magazine holders.The Tex Shoemaker logo on the back of a magazine holder.
I was shocked when that nice man told me there was no charge, and then I realized I didn’t even know who he was. I introduced myself, and as we shook hands, he told me his name: Randy Shoemaker. Randy Shoemaker was Tex Shoemaker’s son.
I never pursued quick draw competition. I had visions of shooting myself in the foot, and it just wasn’t something I wanted to do. But I sure enjoy owning my Tex Shoemaker leather. Maybe someday, I’ll enter the Quick Draw McGraw games. In the meantime, here’s an unashamedly doctored video of me playing around a few years ago at the West End Gun Club.
I’ve joked around a bit about my 1940 Tula Mosin-Nagant’s bore by writing that it looks like a sewer pipe. It turns out my description was closer than I realized. I recently purchased a Teslong borescope (watch for an upcoming review here on ExNotes), and I took a look at what things looked like inside the Mosin. Wow, was I ever shocked. That photo above is my Mosin, from the inside.
My Tula Mosin and a 100-yard target shot with my reloaded ammo. The first five shots are at the bottom of the orange bullseye. As the barrel heated, the subsequent shots hit higher.
I shoot only jacketed bullets in the Mosin described above, and even with that funky bore it shoots them well. This rifle is surprisingly accurate. That’s amazing, particularly in light of the fact that the bore (while clean) is extremely pitted, and in some places, I couldn’t even see the rifling. Still, it cuts a relatively tight group at 100 yards, especially considering that I shoot it only with its native iron sights. On a good day, it will put five shots into a little over an inch before the barrel heats up, and then when it does heat up, it walks them up a line no wider than an inch due to the stock deflecting the barrel upwards.
The Izzy Mosin at the West End Gun Club. I shoot cast bullets in this rifle.A 7.62x54R cartridge loaded with a cast bullet.The above Mosin’s bore, as seen through the Teslong borescope. It is in much better shape than the rifle I use for shooting jacketed bullets.
I have another Mosin (a hex receiver 1935 Izhevsk) I use for cast bullets, and I thought it had a pristine barrel. I was wrong about that, too. The Teslong reveals all. It’s way better than the Tula’s bore, but it also bears more than a passing resemblance to a lunar landscape. But it, too, can cut a decent group at 100 yards. What makes that amazing (at least to me) is that it does so with the same old prehistoric iron sights and cast bullets.
A 100-yard target shot with cast bullets. This rifle had been zeroed for 50 yards, which is why the shots are below the bullseye.
When these rifles were new back in the 1930s and 1940s, primers were corrosive, and corrode the bore they did. And obviously the soldiers who carried them did little to clean them adequately. I’m not faulting them; those troops had other things on their minds and I’m just making an observation. I’ve been driving myself nuts using the new borescope when I clean my modern rifles trying to get every speck of copper and carbon out of the bore, and I’ve been living in anguish every time I see a machining defect or scratch in these firearms. As the Mosins show, I’ve been worrying for nothing. A bore that is in pretty rough condition can still be accurate.
Notice anything flaky about the bullets above? At first, I didn’t. But it’s there. Read on, my friends.
I confirmed a couple of good loads for the .30 06 Weatherby this morning and several months of trying different bullet weights, powders, powder charges, seating depths, and more. In the past, one of my favorite bullets for both the .30 06 and .300 H&H cartridges has been the Winchester 150-grain jacketed softpoint so I wanted to try these again, but they have been unavailable for a long time.
When the Winchester bullets finally came back on the market again a few months ago, I bought 1000. Sometimes they grouped well in my Weatherby, at other times they did not. I got to where I worked up a load with 51.0 grains of IMR 4064 (a max load for this bullet) and that had shown promise, but I’d get a good group and then a bad one. I was pretty sure it wasn’t me being flaky behind the gun; things looked good through the scope when I pulled the trigger.
My 40-year-old Weatherby Mk V, chambered in .30 06 Springfield. It’s a beautiful rifle.That’s a 1980s-ish 12X Leupold Silhouette scope on the Weatherby.
I found that how I positioned the rifle in the Caldwell rest made a difference. If I had the rifle positioned so that the rest was just forward of the rifle’s floorplate, it grouped well; if I had the rifle positioned further back, it did not group as well. Even while taking care to appropriately position the rifle, though, the Winchester bullets grouped erratically. I’d get good groups and then I’d get bad groups.
Then one day after another frustratingly inconsistent range session, I returned home, cleaned the rifle, resized the brass, threw the brass in the tumbler, and was reloading it with the above load when I noticed that the bullet cannelures were not at consistent heights above the case mouth after seating the bullets. Hmmmm.
Winchester 150-gr JSP bullets. Note the cannelure location inconsistences.
So I lined up some bullets on the bench, and son of a gun, the cannelures were all over the place on the bullets (with regard to height above the bullet base). I bitched to Winchester about this through their website and they agreed to refund what I had paid for the bullets. They even had a UPS guy stop by and give me a prepaid shipper to return them. I didn’t want to, though, because the bullets had done well in the past, and I still wasn’t certain that the cannelure location issue was affecting accuracy.
So I reloaded another 12 rounds and before I did so, I sorted the Winchester bullets by cannelure height. I loaded 6 cartridges with bullets that had cannelures at what appeared to be approximately the same location, and I took the bullets I had screened with what were obvious cannelure location differences and loaded 6 more rounds. The next morning I got out early to beat the heat and set up a 100 yard target at the West End Gun Club. I proved my hypothesis: The cannelure height variability was degrading accuracy significantly.
The top two groups had bullets with inconsistent cannelure heights. The bottom two groups had bullets with cannelure heights that were located in approximately the same spot, and the groups with those bullets were much smaller.
The group sizes for bullets with the same cannelure locations returned minute-of-angle groups; the group sizes for bullets with random cannelure height locations were more than twice the size of the consistent-cannelure-location bullets. Duh. I proved (at least to myself) that this cannelure height location issue is making a difference. I can hypothesize that cannelure location can affect the bullet’s center of gravity, center of pressure, drag, and perhaps other aerodynamic and mass properties characteristics. The bottom line to me is that cannelure location variability plays a big role. Winchester screwed the pooch when they made these bullets, which is a shame. I should also mention that these bullets were not sold as seconds. They were supposed to be good bullets. An old line company with a name like Winchester ought to be making a quality product, but they clearly are not. That notwithstanding, I think I’ll keep the bullets and sort them. I’ll use what I cull out for open sight rifles, or maybe I’ll sell them to a gas station and they can melt them down for wheel weights.
Yeah, I could just send the bullets back. To Winchester’s credit, they were willing to refund what I had paid for the bullets. But they disappointed me, and I have to tell you, I spent a lot of time and money in wasted components trying to shoot good groups with lousy bullets. What I’d really like is a note from Winchester telling me they’ve fixed the problem, and then I’d buy another thousand bullets.
You might wonder: Why not just use Hornady’s comparable 150-grain jacketed soft point bullet? It’s a logical question. I tried that with the same load, and it wasn’t as accurate as the screened Winchester bullets (even though the cannelure location was consistent on the Hornady bullets).
I did find a Hornady bullet and a load that worked well in this rifle, though, and that’s the 130-grain Hornady jacketed soft point bullet with 53.0 grains of IMR 4320 (a max load, so work up to it). It shoots slightly high and to the right compared to the load above. IMR 4320 is no longer in production, but I have a stash and I’ll continue to use it. This load is also extremely accurate in my Ruger No. 1A.
Wondering about the chrono results for the loads described above? Here they are, as shot from my 26-inch barreled Weatherby Mark V:
150-grain Winchester Loads
150-grain Winchester jacketed soft point bullet, 51.0 grains of IMR 4064, no crimp, cartridge overall length 3.250 inches, Fiocchi large rifle primer, inconsistent bullet height cannelure
Min velocity: 2861.7 fps
Avg velocity: 2891.8 fps
Max velocity: 2909.8 fps
Extreme spread: 48.1 fps
Standard deviation: 15.9 fps
150-grain Winchester jacketed soft point bullet, 51.0 grains of IMR 4064, no crimp, cartridge overall length 3.250 inches, Fiocchi large rifle primer, screened for consistent bullet height cannelure
Min velocity: 2902.9 fps
Avg velocity: 2912.5 fps
Max velocity: 2933.1 fps
Extreme spread: 30.2 fps
Standard deviation: 10.0 fps
130-grain Hornady Load
Load: 130-grain Hornady jacketed soft point bullet, 53.0 grains of IMR 4320, no crimp, cartridge overall length 3.095 inches, Fiocchi large rifle primer
Caldwell makes several different models of forward rifle rests. The one that makes the most sense to me is the Caldwell Rock Deluxe Shooting Rest. It has what I want in a rifle rest and at $102 it is reasonably priced (as much as anything can be considered reasonably priced in our inflationary times). It includes the forward rifle pad and it is adjustable for height, tilt, and squeeze on the pad. The features are explained in the photos below.
Rifle height off the bench is adjustable by the large black adjusting collar on the center shaft.The top right arrow points to the height adjustment. Once the height is set, it should be locked in place with the locking screw denoted by the arrow on the lower right. The arrow on the center right points to one of three height and tilt adjustments on each leg of the rifle rest tripod mount. These are also capable of being locked in place. The arrow on the left points to one of two knobs that adjust squeeze on the padded forearm rest.Another view of the Caldwell Rock Deluxe Shooting Rest. The upper arrow points to one of the two rest cushion squeeze knobs; the lower arrow points to the height adjustment lock.
About the only thing I don’t like about the Caldwell Rock Deluxe Shooting Rest is that the cushion lining will peel off with continuous use. It’s not a big deal and Caldwell sells replacement cushions. Or, you could just cover the worn area with duct tape, which is what I will probably do at some point. The amount of wear you see on mine (in the photos above) has remained relatively stable for a couple of years now, so maybe it won’t wear anymore.
The Mini 14 resting on the Caldwell Rock Deluxe Shooting Rest. This photo also shows the Garmin chronograph, which I’ll review in a future blog.
If you purchase the Caldwell Rock Deluxe Shooting Rest on Amazon, be careful to make sure that you order what you see here. When writing this blog, I noticed that Amazon has an error in their ad for The Rock Junior, which is a smaller and less expensive model. In the Amazon ad, they show the Caldwell Rock Deluxe Shooting Rest, but what they describe (and what they have for the price) is actually the lower tier Rock Junior.
I’ll write about two Caldwell rear rifle rests here. The first is the Caldwell Rear Shooting Bag, which is the lower of the two rear rests I’ll describe here. I’ve mostly used this one until recently, when I bought the other model (and I’ll get to that in a second).
The problem with this version of the Caldwell Rear Shooting Bag is that it is too low. One option is to lower the Caldwell Rock Deluxe to bring the rifle back on target, but that means you have to get all scrunched up leaning down on the bench (something that adversely affects accuracy for my shooting). The other approach is to put a block under the Caldwell Rear Shooting Bag (I use an empty 100-round MTM .45 ACP ammo container). That gets the Caldwell Rear Shooting Bag to just the right height for me and it makes for a more comfortable bench rest shooting position.
The Caldwell Rear Medium High Bag gets the rifle up to a comfortable level for bench rest shooting. In fact, the height is about the same as the Caldwll with a block beneath it, as I described above. I ordered it because I saw some of my bench rest buddies using it at the West End Club and I thought it would be more stable than the Caldwell Rear Shooting Bag with an empty ammo container underneath. But the jury is still out.
So far, I found I can shoot tighter groups using the Caldwell Rear Shooting Bag with an empty ammo box than I can using the Caldwell Rear Medium High Bag. I think there’s two reasons for that. The first is that the Caldwell Rear Medium High Bag, as delivered, is (in my opinion) overstuffed with filler beads. Its bottom is not flat, and I found my rifle wants to roll either left or right, requiring me to hold it where I want it (which induces a bit of unsteadiness. I suppose I could let some of the Caldwell Rear Medium High Bag filler material out to get it sit flat on the bench, but I haven’t gotten around to doing that yet. The other thing I don’t like is that the Caldwell Rear Medium High Bag has a larger footprint than the Caldwell. When I shoot off the bench, I wrap my left arm around the base of the rear rest. I find that it’s easier to to that with the Caldwell Rear Shooting Bag and an empty ammo box than it is with the Caldwell Rear Medium High Bag. That’s just me; your mileage may vary.
If you own a Mini 14 (or any semi-automatic rifle) and you go to the range, you need a Caldwell Brass Trap. Especially with a Mini 14; they throw brass far enough and hard enough to dent cars. Don’t ask me how I know.
You’ll need to have some kind of a clamp to secure the Caldwell Brass Trap to the shooting bench. I bought the one you see here on Amazon. They were three to a pack. I’ve only ever used one.
There are two things I don’t like about the Caldwell Brass Trap. Sometimes the brass being ejected bounces off the heat resistant netting and gets flung forward of the firing line. This happens maybe 5 percent of the time. It’s not a big deal; I just wait for the next line break to retrieve my spent brass. The other thing I didn’t like is those clamps make it easy to store the Caldwell Brass Trap out of sight and out of mind. I clamped my first Caldwell Brass Trap to one of the 2x8s that run across the ceiling of my ammo factory (i.e., my garage). One day when I was going to the range with my Mini 14, I looked all over for the Brass Trap and couldn’t find it. Now I have two. Wouldn’t you know it? The day the second Caldwell Brass Trap arrived from Amazon, I looked up in my little ammo factory and saw the first one.
So how did I do with the GSR and the Mini 14 the day before I wrote this blog? Just so so. Some days you get the bear and some days the bear gets you. But I still had fun. Every day on the range is a good day for me, and if you’re reading this, it probably is for you, too.
100 yards with the GSR and its open sights. The load is one that was tailored for the M1A; it shoots a scosh low in the GSR. I could adjust for it, but the GSR shoots better with a different load, and my GSR sights are adjusted for it.A 100-yard Mini 14 group with 62-grain Hornady bullets and ARComp powder. I’ve done better and I’ve done worse. Even though it’s not a great group, it’s good enough for minute-of-bad-guy.
Our Idaho exploration continued with a visit to the Idaho Military Museum, which near Boise’s airport. The Museum is small but intense, with a single large room containing many exhibits, and an outdoor area containing armored vehicles and aircraft. I think the best way to present this story is with captioned photos. Have fun reviewing them; I sure had fun taking them.
The view inside the Idaho Military Museum.A GAU-8/A, which is a 7-barreled, 30mm A-10 cannon. These guns fire 30mm at either 4200 or 2100 shots per minute. I used to be an engineer with Aerojet Ordnance, where we manufactured ammo for this beast.Both Honeywell and Aerojet manufactured A-10 ammunition. This round was manufactured by Aerojet. Aerojet’s cartridges featured two nylon rotating bands on the projectile.A water-cooled M1917 .30 06 machine gun. The thick jacket around the barrel contained water that kept the gun cool.One of several military rifle displays. The Idaho Military Museum has a great military surplus small arms collection. If you enjoy seeing vintage Mosins, Mausers, Springfields, and more, this is where you want to be. I sure had a good time here.A Nagant revolver. These guns featured a complex approach to sealing the barrel-to-cylinder gap. It’s a brilliant solution to a problem that doesn’t exist..More military rifles on display. See the round silver disk in the Mauser’s stock? It’s a feature for disassembling the bolt.The Idaho Military Museum has two large military ship models. This is the USS Ronald Reagan.The USS New Jersey. The actual New Jersey battleship was recently refurbished at the Philadelphia Naval Yard. If you ever get a chance to tour a US battleship, don’t pass it by. These behemoths are awesome.A Soviet machine gun. These fire the same 7.62x54R cartridges used in my Mosin-Nagant rifles.A US M-60 machine gun. These are heavy, but I used to love lugging these around when I was in the Army. Firing them is an experience.The M-72 Light Anti-Tank Weapon, or LAW. It was our version of a rocket propelled grenade. The Army had to take these out of service, When the telescopic launch tube was extended, it sometimes pulled the warhead off the rocket motor, with the result being an explosion in the tube when the thing was fired.Yours truly, reflected in one of the Idaho Military Museum exhibits. That’s the M1911 .45 ACP pistol and a Claymore mine. Front Toward Enemy says it all. The bad guys sometimes turned these around, which turned the ambushers into ambushees.An M1A Abrams Main Battle Tank outside the Idaho Military Museum. These are still in service. They are powered by a turbine engine. The prior US Army tank, the M60 that was in service when I was in the Army, had a 12-cylinder air-cooled diesel engine.Two military jets on the Idaho Military Museum tarmac: A Soviet MIG-21 and a Korean War vintage F-86. When I was based at Kunsan AFB in the mid-1970s, the ROK Air Force was still flying the F-86.
The Idaho Military Museum is located at 4692 West Harvard Street in Boise. Admission is free. Plan on spending an hour or two there; it’s a great stop on any Idaho excursion.
Talk about a hidden gem and a great destination: The Yanke Motor Museum in Boise, Idaho is about as good as it gets. There’s precious little information on the Internet about it, but trust me, it’s worth seeing. It’s not widely publicized and you can’t just roll up and visit its treasures; admission is by appointment only. My advice is to make the run to Boise and make the effort to get an appointment. The Yanke Motor Museum contains a world class automobile, motorcycle, tractor, and musical instrument collection.
A 1924 Packard convertible is one of the first vintage cars you encounter upon entering the Yanke Motor Museum.
As you know from reading this blog, I’m a big fan of car and motorcycle museums, and I never heard of the Yanke Motor Museum. It’s the only automotive museum in Idaho, and it never appeared on my radar before. I only came across it because I Googled “motorcycle museums in Boise.” Some of the Internet services won’t tell you that it’s by appointment only, but that’s the deal. Further complicating things, some of the GPS programs get the directions wrong. We used Waze to find the address and it worked.
There is a lot to see at the Yanke Motor Museum. We were lucky: Sue and I had the place to ourselves. We made an appointment and new good buddy Tyler (one of the curators) pulled up just as we entered the parking lot. Tyler was in a silver Subaru WRX, so I liked him right away. He opened the place just for us, and then he had to walk around turning all the lights on (and he flipped a lot of switches to do that). The place is huge.
A 1957 Cadillac. This is a beautiful car. I was 6 years old when it rolled off the assembly line.
I didn’t quite know what to expect because when we entered the main display area (after walking through a collection of musical instruments), I at first saw mostly automobiles. They were impressive and they were plentiful (see the Packard and drop-dead-gorgeous pink Cadillac above), with the odd motorcycle parked here and there. There was a Ural and a couple of Harley dressers, so I asked Tyler if there were more motorcycles. He smiled and pointed me toward another hall. Wow, were there ever! In fact, my back started bothering me lugging my boat-anchor Nikon D810 and 24-120 lens around to get the photos you see here, but it was worth it.
A Ural with a sidecar. Good buddy Dan owns one of these.
Before we got to the main motorcycle hall, we saw several more interesting motorcycles and the odd trike or two. There was a ’37 SS Jag replicar. It was flanked by a stunning cherry red Harley Servi-Car and a custom flathead Ford trike with Offenhauser heads.
Sweet!A fire engine red Harley Servi-Car.A flathead Ford trike. Check out the front brake.A custom in every sense of the word. The workmanship is stunning.Offenhauser heads. Offy also made complete 4-cylinder engines. Think decades of Indy 500 dominance.One last view of the flattie trike. Even the tires are beautiful.
Susie and I were blown away by the classic cars and the multiple motorcycles we encountered at the Yanke Motor Museum, and we hadn’t even made it to the motorcycle room yet. In the main hall, classic motocross and other bikes were scattered among the cars and other vehicles.
I once had a friend who thought a Bultaco was a Mexican food item. No kidding.
There was a flatbed truck with a Harley XLCR Cafe Racer, a vintage Indian Chief, and a vintage Harley.
I could have bought a new ’77 XLCR just like this one for $3,000, but I couldn’t justify spending $3,000 for a motorcycle back then. I don’t know who I thought I had to justify it to.A 1941 Indian Chief. Those fenders!
When we entered the motorcycle room, it was like being a kid in a candy shop. No, wait, I take that back. I used to be a kid in a candy shop six or seven decades ago. This was better. Just about everything imaginable was there if you are looking for cool motorcycles. Desert racers, WW II military Harley 45s, modern bikes, custom bikes, vintage Harleys, vintage Indians, scooters, Whizzers, vintage flat track and flathead Harley race bikes, and more. The Nikon was giving me fits weighing heavily on my lower back, and leaning over to get macro engine shots was getting downright painful, but I didn’t care. Susie had an Advil, I swallowed it, and the photo safari continued. I was on a mission. Anything and everything for our ExNotes readers…that’s our mantra.
In the motorcycle room…check out the Army 45s.A 1934 74-cubic-inch Harley VLD flathead, another stunning motorcycle.A Lambretta!Whizzers! Carlos, take note!Harley-Davidson flathead flat track racing motorcycles.Ah, the patina! Check out the steel shoe!Flathead porn.An Army 45 in decidedly non-Army colors.
The Yanke Motor Museum also contained some cool military stuff, including Jeeps and a few cannons. Cannons!
A 1948 US Army Jeep.A 25mm Hotchkiss cannon.The same action as a Ruger No. 1. A classic falling block concept.Another falling block artillery action.A custom scope mount for direct fire. This thing must be a hoot to shoot. Folks at the Museum reload for it.
I thought it couldn’t possibly get any better, but when I peeked into an adjoining room I spotted several 37mm and 25mm projectiles in various stages of the reloading process. Imagine that: Reloading for your own cannons! There’s no doubt about it: The folks who own and run the Yanke Motor Museum are our kind people.
Ron and Linda Yanke started the Museum. An extremely successful entrepreneur, Ron is unfortunately no longer with us. The Yanke family started the business empire with a machine shop. Ron Yanke expanded the business holdings to sawmills, an air charter service, a firefighting equipment manufacturer, extensive timberland holdings, several real estate companies, a mechanical contracting firm, a manufactured housing company, and a couple of banks. He was one of three original investors in Micron Technology, the world’s second-largest memory chip manufacturer.
I was downright giddy this past weekend, as I was about to do something I had never done before. When you’re my age and that happens, it’s something special. I was enjoying the feeling. I don’t get to experience new things too much anymore.
Right side view of my Uberti Colt Walker. It sure is pretty, but can it shoot?
The something I was about to do? I was going to shoot my 1847 Colt Walker replica revolver, a gun that is a cap and ball, black powder six shooter manufactured by Uberti in Italy. It would be the first time I had ever fired a black powder revolver, and it would be the first time I ever went through the drill of loading it myself.
There’s a bit of a story behind the Colt Walker. It’s than just a story. it’s part of our history, and it goes back to near the beginnings of the United States. Samuel Colt had invented his revolver with the 1836 Paterson model, manufactured by Colt in Paterson, New Jersey (hence the name). It was a brilliant design, but it was probably ahead of its time in an era of single shot weapons. That’s what most people thought, but Texas Ranger Captain Samuel Walker wasn’t what anyone might regard as “most people.” Walker was a Texas Ranger, and he and his men actually used the Paterson revolver in combat along the Mexican border. Colt Firearms had already failed as a business, but the Paterson revolvers did their job. Captain Walker and his Texas Rangers prevailed against their enemy.
Captain Walker wrote to Samuel Colt. Colt Firearms had folded, but Walker explained to Colt how effective his Patersons had been and he offered to help Colt design an even better handgun. This meeting of the minds led directly to the 1847 Colt Walker. As I mentioned above, mine is a reproduction of the original. I paid $343 for it about 5 years ago. Original Colt Walkers bring more than million dollars when they trade hands today (only a few exist of the 1000 Colts produced for the US Army and 100 Sam Colt made for marketing purposes).
Gus McCrae and his Colt Walker. I’ll bet he was sporting a Uberti when they filmed Lonesome Dove.
Modern firearms use cartridges that already have the primer, propellant, and bullet contained in the cartridge case. All we have to do is load the cartridge(s) and fire the gun. Cap and ball revolvers are different. Loading and firing them requires a series of steps far more complicated than firing a modern cartridge gun. Loading and firing a cap and ball revolver requires the following:
Inserting a measured amount of black powder (gunpowder, so to speak) into each of the revolver’s chambers.
Inserting a greased wad over the gunpowder.
Lubricating the bullet (typically referred to as the “ball” because the bullet is a cast round ball).
Positioning the ball over the chamber mouth.
Rotating the cylinder to position the ball under the revolver’s ram.
Using the ram to seat the ball in the chamber.
Filling the space above the ball with “grease” (a mixture of lard and other things).
Placing a percussion cap on each of the cylinder’s six nipples (the cap is the primer that ignites when the hammer hits it to initiate the gunpowder’s controlled rapid burn).
After doing all the above, I would then be able to fire six shots from my Walker.
Yours truly and good buddy Paul. We’ve known each other for more than 70 years.
My lifelong friend and good buddy Paul has been shooting black powder firearms for most of his life. Me? I’m a newby. I’d never through the cap and ball loading sequence outlined above and I was plenty nervous about attempting to do so. Basically, I’d be playing with guns and explosives. I asked Paul about a thousand questions about how to do this, culminating in a visit to his rancho in northern California. Paul was informed and patient, and he had a bunch of good things to give to me when I arrived, including:
Black powder.
Caps.
Balls.
Grease.
A loading stand.
Loading tools.
I was blown away by Paul’s knowledge, generosity, and willingness to teach me how to go about loading and shooting a black powder revolver. I don’t mind telling you I was a little nervous, too.
The loading stand Paul made for me with the Uberti in place. The long rod beneath the barrel is the loading ram. It pivots to force a ball into the chamber.
Paul told me that while you can load a black powder revolver without any tools, doing so is a lot easier if you have a stand. He had made a stand for me, and it fit the Walker perfectly.
A closer view of the loading stand with its tools mounted on the base. This is a cool setup.The tool on top is used for seating the caps (as in cap and ball) on the nipples. The lower tool is the butterknife, used for spreading grease on top of a seated ball.
Paul also made up three tools to help the loading process. Two of these (the butterknife and the cap seating tool) were integrated into the loading stand. The butterknife is used to fill the cavity above the loaded chamber with grease. The cap seating tool is used to push the percussion caps onto the nipples.
Paul fabricated this gunpowder measuring and dispensing device from a .30 06 cartridge. Note the powder charge markings on the shaft. I loaded 40 grains of FFF black powder in each chamber. This is a really cool bit of workmanship.
The third tool was the loading measure. Loading a black powder revolver involves inserting a measured amount of black powder into each chamber. Paul fabricated a precision measure from a .30 06 cartridge. It was quite clever, and it demonstrated Paul’s considerable design skills. I’ve known the guy literally all my life and he’s always surprising me with things like this.
FFF black powder. It’s a lot more sensitive than the powders we use today in cartridge guns.Percussion caps. They are, in effect, primers. One goes on the nipple of each chamber. It’s the last step in the loading process. When the hammer strikes these, they ignite and light off the black powder.Greased wads. These go over the black powder in each chamber, between the black powder and the ball.Yep. I’ve got balls. Lots of them, in fact.The grease that goes on each ball before it is loaded into the chamber, and then on top of the ball to seal the loaded chamber and prevent a chain fire event.
We had a very hot weekend and to further complicate things, the road to the gun club in the San Gabriel Mountains had been closed for the last several days (we were experiencing one of our many forest fires). On Sunday afternoon, though, the heavy smoke emanating from the forest fire (I could see it from my home) had lifted. I loaded the Subaru and headed for the range. When I arrived, other than the rangemasters I was the only guy out there. I had the range to myself. It was 97 degrees, but I could take my time, focus on everything Paul taught me, and make myself a black powder shooter.
A lubed ball ready to be rammed into the chamber. Notice the cutout in the frame that allows the cylinder to rotate into position such that the ball is directly beneath the ram.
The revolver stand Paul made was awesome. It held the revolver perfectly and greatly facilitated the loading process. I set the powder measure at 40 grains (the Walker can go up to 60 grains), filled it, and poured the powder in the first chamber. That was followed by a pre-lubricated wad on top of the powder. I dipped one of the balls in the grease and seated it on top of the chamber I had just charged with powder and a wad. Then I rotated the cylinder a few degrees and forced the ball into the chamber with the revolver’s ram. Damn, that loading stand was a cool fixture. I couldn’t imagine trying to do this without it. I repeated the process five more times, and I had all six chambers charged.
After that, I buttered the tops of each chamber. The purpose of doing so is to prevent one chamber’s ignition from lighting off the other chambers (such an event is called a “chain fire”). That sometimes happened on the original Colt revolvers, it was viewed as a design flaw, and Colt’s early investors threatened to pull their funding when it first appeared. I don’t know if that’s what led to using grease on top of the seated ball. Whatever Colt did to allay their concerns, Colt’s investors hung in there with him.
The next step was to install the caps on top of the nipples. I was a little more nervous during this step. The percussion cap is what starts the ignition sequence. If one lit off during installation…well, let’s just say I probably wouldn’t be typing this story. But everything went as planned.
I was ready to go, but my hands were slippery. You know, they say you can tell how good a housepainter is by how much paint he gets on himself. By that measure, I was not a very good cap and ball revolver loader. I had grease on my hands and it made holding the heavy Walker difficult. I wiped off my hands as best I could, picked up the Walker, and drew down on the target 50 feet down range.
To say I was nervous would be an understatement. Here I was, greasy paws and all, holding this monster 5-pound revolver, trying to focus on a tiny and distant front sight while trying to keep it centered in the hammer notch that serves as the Walker’s rear sight. I felt like a little kid playing with Dad’s gun when he wasn’t home. Calm down, I thought to myself. Focus on the front sight. As I increased pressure on the trigger and tried to hold the Walker steady, I could feel Sergeant Major Emory Hickman, my Dad, and Paul watching me (even though I was the only guy out there on that very, very hot afternoon).
KA-BOOM!!!!
The big Walker barked, I saw the flash, the muzzle flipped up, I felt the recoil, and smoke filled the air. I realized again: This is a BIG gun. Hell, Walker and Colt designed it so that if you missed the bad guy, you’d kill the horse he rode in on (the literal embodiment of what you say in a verbal altercation). It was .44 Magnum of its day, the Dirty Harry handgun of 1847. Do you feel lucky, punk?
Damn right I did.
I looked downrange, and I could see the first hole I had cut through the target. It was high, but Paul told me these things all shoot way high. My bad guy was toast. Nailed him right in the neck, I did. I was in the scoring rings! Whoooowee, this was awesome!
Six holes from six balls. Not a bad group for the first time I ever fired a black powder revolver. But that hole on the left? Where did that come from?
I fired five more rounds, gaining confidence with each shot. I became Captain Augustus McCrae. I wanted to throw a shot glass in the air and nail it in flight, right there in the saloon, just like Gus did in Lonesome Dove. I set the big Walker down on the bench and I called a line break (I was the only guy out there, but Captain McCrae wanted to do things right). As I approached the target, I saw a decent group for a guy with slippery hands shooting a cap and ball revolver for the first time on a blazingly hot afternoon. Then it was: Uh oh. I had put a shot off to the left in Mr. Bad Guy’s shoulder. I counted the holes in my nice-sized neck group, and there were six. Where did that seventh shot come from?
There’s a wad behind that tear in my target. It probably wouldn’t stop a bad guy, but I’ll bet it would get his attention.
Ha! That hole in the shoulder was made by the wad from one of the shots! It was still stuck in the paper, and when I lifted my iPhone to get a picture, it fell behind the target.
I was hot, sweaty, greasy, and still giddy. Time for another six rounds. Paul told me when you shoot these things, you’re lucky to get through two full cylinders. The guns get so dirty they get difficult to cock and fire after the first cylinder. A big part of the problem, Paul said, are the cap remnants. They break up and fall into the mechanism. He was right.
Fired percussion caps. Paul was right; they do come apart and fall into the mechanism. In the old days when you saw the hero of a Western movie point his gun toward the sky before cocking it for the next shot, it was to allow the spent cap to fall free of the six gun.
I got all the cap debris out of the Walker, loaded the gun again, and lit off six more. I’d already been on the range an hour and half. It’s like the amphibians say: Time’s fun when you’re having flies. A couple of shots from the next cylinder went a little high, but they were all in about the same area.
12 shots on target. My first 12 ever, and they were close enough for government work.
As I mentioned above, Paul told me all his cap and ball revolvers shot high, and that was what I found with mine. That said, I was enormously pleased with the results. The group was about the size of the orange bullseye. My aim point had been the center of the bullseye. If I held low and to the right, I’m confident I could put six rounds in the orange bullseye. Move over, Gus!
You know, on the way home, I was thinking about what our early Americans had to contend with when armed with cap and ball revolvers. It’s astonishing to think about winning gunfights, battles, and wars with weapons that are so heavy and take so long to load. My admiration for what they accomplished had been high; it was now even higher.
That ride home was quite a ride. I was going to call Paul to tell him about my success with the Walker and thank him again, but the radio was carrying President Trump’s speech live from Pennsylvania. He was only minutes into it and I was only half listening when I heard things crashing and then I heard several pops. And then a blood curdling scream. What I was hearing didn’t compute at first, and then I realized: Someone was shooting and I was hearing it live.
I arrived home a few minutes later and turned on the TV. What I saw hit me hard. The President escaped death by millimeters, and that only occurred because he happened to turn his head at precisely the right instant. I feel terrible for the retired firefighter who died and the others who were injured. It was a massive failure on all but the final Secret Service action (when they killed the sniper who fired the shots). I’m sure we’ll be hearing much more about this as the weeks and months go by. The Secret Service is a troubled agency. If it’s not botched protection efforts it’s cocaine in the White House or hookers in Colombia. It’s almost as if they need to shut that agency down and start over. I hope they get it right soon. I would have written and posted this blog sooner, but like most Americans, I’ve been glued to the television as updated info on the assassination attempt rolled in.
So to get back to this blog, I am very pleased with my Walker’s performance, and I am more than a little pleased with my performance, too. I’m hooked on the cap and ball revolver experience. For most of us in most of the United States, we can still purchase black powder guns through the mail and have them delivered to our home. Just this morning I received a cap and ball revolver sale notification from Midsouth Shooting Supplies. Don’t overlook these windows into our past. Take it from me: They are fun.
I think it would be difficult to be a firearms enthusiast and not be a student of history. Firearms are history. And some of that history revolves around the Texas Rangers, the oldest and perhaps most legendary law enforcement group in US history. I’ve always been fascinated with the Texas Rangers, starting with their use of the very first Colt Paterson revolvers in combat, the early Captain Samuel Walker days, and the emergence of the Colt Walker black powder revolver.
Texan Ranger Captain Samuel Walker.
When I was a kid, we had a steady diet of Westerns on TV and in the movies, and the Texas Rangers figured prominently in many of those shows. I’m a Lonesome Dove fan, having read Larry McMurtry’s novels and watched the television series numerous times. Go Gus and Woodrow (but especially Gus; he carried a Colt Walker).
Robert Duvall as Gus MacCrae in Lonesome Dove, and his Colt Walker.
You would think with the Texas Rangers’ historical and often romanticized use of Colt revolvers, Colt would be all over the Texas Ranger commemorative gun business. They did so in the early 1970s with a very limited run of Single Action Army revolvers, but that was the only time.
Colt’s Texas Rangers 150th Anniversary Commemorative. These guns don’t come up for sale often, and when they do, the price is stratospheric. It’s the only Texas Rangers Commemorative Colt has ever done.
The Texas Rangers commemorative mantle has been picked up by Smith and Wesson, first in 1973 for the Texas Rangers’ 150th anniversary, and again in 2023 for the 200th anniversary. These are beautiful firearms (they are art, in my opinion).
A Texas Rangers 150th Anniversary Smith and Wesson Model 19.Another view of the Texas Rangers 150th Anniversary Smith and Wesson Model 19.
Jumping back to 1973, Smith and Wesson offered a cased commemorative Model 19 Smith and Wesson along with a Bowie knife. A standard Model 19 cost about $150 back then (I had one); the Texas Rangers Model 19 with display case and matching Bowie knife was a whopping $250. It seems an almost trivial amount today. A standard Model 19 costs around a thousand bucks today, and the Model 19 of today is not the same gun it was in the 1970s. The older ones, as is true with many things in life, are better.
The 200th Anniversary Texas Rangers Smith and Wesson .357 Magnum revolver.
Fast forward to 2023, and Smith and Wesson did it again, with a Texas Rangers 200th anniversary revolver. This time it’s a highly polished N-frame, fixed sight version. The N-frame is Smith’s big gun frame used on their original .357 Magnum, the Model 27, the .45 ACP revolvers, and the .44 Magnum revolvers. You know, the Big Boy guns for us full-figured shooters.
A real beauty, these 200th Anniversary Texas Rangers Smith and Wessons are.
I’ve been perusing both of these Texas Ranger guns on the gun auction sites. I can get the 1973 version (which was based on the Model 19) for about $1500, which isn’t a bad deal considering you get a more collectible gun, the knife, and the case for not too much more than what a new Model 19 cost today. I’d shoot it, too, if I bought one. And then there’s the current Texas Rangers 200th Anniversary revolver, built on the N-frame Those are going for around $2500 or more. That a bit pricey, but maybe in 50 years $2500 will be a trivial amount. I’m a firm believer that you can’t pay too much for a gun; you just maybe bought it too early.
A lot of things are different today, and the price for either of the Smith and Wesson Texas Ranger commemoratives is just a starting point here in California. Compounding the felony on both guns is our outrageous California 11% excise tax on firearms and ammo (that little bit of silliness and government overreach went into effect this month), which gets added onto:
Our outrageous California state sales tax
The federal government’s $40 background check and ATF Form 4473 (the one that Hunter Biden was convicted of falsifying when his sweetheart deal fell apart)
The FFL dealer’s $40 transfer fee
A $75 shipping fee to get the gun to me here in left wing Utopia (i.e., the Peoples Republik of Kalifornia)
It all adds up to roughly another $700. And all that’s aggravated by the likelihood I couldn’t even get the 200th Anniversary Texas Rangers commemorative because our California Attorney General hasn’t seen fit to add it to our roster of approved handguns. Even Gomer Pyle wouldn’t know how to react to all these added government fees, but I’m guessing his reaction would be a heartfelt Gosh, or a Golly, or maybe even a Shazam! It’s almost as if California doesn’t agree with the Second Amendment to the United States Constitution.
But that earlier Texas Rangers Smith and Wesson…the Model 19 150th Anniversary gun. It’s now over 50 years old, and that makes it an antique in California’s all-seeing and all-knowing firearms book of state regs , and antiques are exempt from the Roster of Approved Handguns limitations. I’d still have to pay all the fees described above. But it’s doable, and I’m thinking about it.
You might wonder: Are the Texas Rangers still around, and what sidearm do they carry? The answer is yes; the Texas Rangers are part of the Texas Department of Public Safety. Texas Rangers are issued a SIG 320 (a 9mm semi-auto), but they are allowed to carry their personal sidearms. Many choose to carry the 1911.
No matter how much I scrub a bore with patches and solvent, I can’t get all the copper fouling out. For that, I need to turn to a bore brush, and the general rule of thumb seems to be one complete back and forth stroke for each round fired. 50 rounds fired (which I sometimes will do), and it’s 50 back and forth strokes with a bore brush. The copper literally has to be scraped out of the barrel.
The problem with this, of course, is that a new bore brush takes a lot of force to drive through the bore, and in doing so, the cleaning rod I’m pushing it with flexes if it is not supported while the bore brush is in the bore. That can cause the rod to bear on the chamber entrance or the leade in the chamber, and that can damage the chamber.
The Tipton Universal Bore Guide Kit is a contraption that allows you to protect a bolt action rifle’s chamber from the cleaning rod. An added benefit is that it prevents solvent or oil from dripping into the action. The concept is good; the execution is slightly flawed for some firearms in my opinion. That said, I’ll continue to use it on my bolt action rifles.
The pieces include a tube, an end piece with a slot for adding solvent, a sleeve that includes a combination bolt/set screw, an optional bore guide for an AR-15, and three different rubber funnels (for lack of a better word) based on the caliber.
In the photo above, the bore funnel is the red rubber piece on the left end of tube. Its purpose is to align the tube to the barrel. The two red rubber pieces above the tube in the photo above are for different size bores. The brass piece above the tube is the combination set screw/bolt (its use will become clear in another photo below). The stubby black at the top right of the photo above is the AR-15 chamber adaptor. The red rubber piece on the right in the photo above is guide that guides the cleaning rod into the tube. You’ll notice an elliptical cutout in it. The elliptical cutout’s purpose is to allow you to add solvent or oil to the cleaning patch at that point. The idea is to not insert a cleaning rod into the rifle with a solvent or oil soaked patch. This is to prevent the solvent or oil from dripping into the action as the cleaning rod and patch are inserted into the gun.
The first is that the red rubber guide fits into the chamber will not withdraw from the action when the Tipton Universal Bore Guide Kit is pulled out. The rubber chamber guide hangs up on the rear of the action. It’s not a big deal. I just pulled on the tube, the guide falls off, and I reinstalled it. I only needed to do this when I was finished using the Tipton Universal Bore Guide Kit and I wanted to remove the thing.
The feature that allows you to add solvent through a port in the rear red rubber guide is something I didn’t need for applying the solvent. I just dipped the cleaning rod tip (with patch) into the solvent bottle and ran it through the bore. The same is true with the oiled patch after I’m done cleaning. That extra port solves a solvent or oil application problem that doesn’t exist. But it sure came in handy when I encountered the next problem.
The Tipton Universal Bore Guide Kit doesn’t work with a long action and a 26-inch barrel as the kit is configured. I tried working a new bore brush through my .30 06 Mark V Weatherby, and the cleaning rod handle butted up against the rubber guide at the Tipton bore guide’s rear end with the tip of the bore brush just showing at the end of the muzzle. That was a real “uh oh” moment. There’s no way to back the bore brush out (especially when the brush is new). The bore brush, the bore brush rod, and the Tipton were locked in place. That’s when the opening in the rear guide came in handy. I was able to grasp the cleaning rod with a pair of needlenosed pliers and turn it about an eighth of a turn at a time (my cleaning rod handle allows the rod to rotate, a feature intended to prevent the cleaning rod from unscrewing). Then I’d release the pliers’ grip, move it around the section of cleaning rod visible through the red rubber rear guide, and turn the rod another eighth of a turn. I did this for several minutes until I could get the rod unscrewed from the bore brush, and after that, I put an extension on the rod. It was a real pan in the ass. I’ll cut the length of the Tipton bore guide down to prevent this from occurring again. I feel the Tipton’s bore guide instructions should have a warning about this.
The above notwithstanding, I think the Tipton Universal Bore Guide Kit is still a good purchase. It seems to work well, and it prevents cleaning rod flex when running a tight-fitting bore brush through a rifle barrel, so it does what I want it to do. I paid $13.01 for mine when I bought it on Amazon. For $13, it’s a decent deal.
I had my .30 06 Weatherby out last weekend. It was the first time I fired this rifle in maybe 35 years. I bought it at the Weatherby plant in South Gate, California, back when they used to let you in the warehouse to select the wood you wanted.
Fancy walnut and deep, deep bluing. I think I paid something around $300 for this rifle, new, in the 1980s. I’ll never sell it.
When I first shot this rifle in the mid-1980s, it didn’t group very well with my favorite .30 06 load (a 130-grain Hornady jacketed softpoint bullet and a max load of IMR 4320). That was the load I used in my Ruger No. 1 chasing jackrabbits in west Texas. Other things intervened to capture my attention, and I never got around to finding a load for this rifle.
Fast forward several decades, and for this outing I grabbed what was available in the ammo locker: A box of 168-grain Speer jacketed hollow point boat tail bullets (my Garand load), another box with Remington 180-grain jacketed soft point bullets (which are unfortunately no longer available), and a third box with 150-grain Hornady jacketed soft point bullets and 48.0 grains of IMR 4320 (which is also no longer available). What I learned on this most recent outing is that my Weatherby really likes the 180-grain Remington bullets and 48.0 grains of IMR 4064. It did acceptably well (for hunting purposes) with the other two loads, but that 180-grain Remington bullet and IMR 4064 is what answers the mail for me. It’s one of the places where accuracy lives in this rifle.
Before I left the house, I ran an oiled patch down the bore because as I said above the rifle hadn’t been shot in literally decades. When I first set up on the range, the rifle was throwing shots all over the place for the first few rounds. Then, either I or the rifle (or both of us) settled down and the Weatherby started grouping. Most of the other groups were in the 1.2-inch to 2.1-inch range (which is good enough for hunting deer and pigs), but the rifle really liked that 180-grain load. I’m talking sub-minute-of-angle. I couldn’t do this with every group, but it tells me the rifle will do its job (if I do mine).
When assessing a hunting rifle’s accuracy, I typically shoot 3-shot groups at 100 yards off the bench. Some folks like to shoot 5-shot groups, but it’s pretty hard to get the animals to sit still for 5 shots.Two shots through the same hole, and one a half inch away. I wish I could do this every time. The rifle is way more accurate than I am.
I was pleased with how the rifle performed, and I’ll probably start bringing it to the range more often.
A 12X, fixed-power Leupold scope with target knob adjustments and a sunshade. This is a nice setup.
I originally set up the 12X Leupold scope and this rifle for shooting in the standing position, so the scope sits high on the rifle. When I bought the rifle, I thought I would shoot metallic silhouette with it, but I never did. With the scope as high as it is, it was awkward shooting from the bench. That probably had something to do with the other groups opening up a bit, but I’m not complaining.
I wish Remington still sold bullets separately, but hey, life goes on. I have two boxes of the Remington bullets left, and when they’re gone, they’re gone. I also have a couple of boxes of Speer 180-grain jacketed bullets, and when I’ve run through my stash of Remington 180 bullets, I’ll try the Speers next. Speer still makes those. There are a few other loads I’m going to try, too. I’ll keep you posted.
