Good Morning, Vietnam!

It was one of those crazy motorcycle adventure moments when a chance encounter leads to a lasting friendship.  I was leading a group of maybe 10 guys on CSC RX3 motorcycles in Baja and we stopped to buy bottled gas from the capitalists along the Transpeninsular Highway in Cataviña.  It was a crowded scene with two or three Bajaenos pouring gas from plastic water jugs into our motorcycles with bikes and bodies tightly crowded around.  That’s when I noticed a tailpack on one of the bikes that looked different from the rest of our RX3s, and suddenly the difference hit me: It was bigger than the others and it had jump wings on the back.

Jump wings?  That’s odd, I thought.  I didn’t think any of the guys I was riding with was a fellow former paratrooper.  That’s when I met Mike Huber.  He hadn’t been riding with us; he just happened to get mixed into our group at the Catavina fuel stop.

Mike is a cool guy with a cool lifestyle.  Most recently, that included a moto trip across Vietnam with his girlfriend, Bobbie.  Mike published a story in ADVMoto, a magazine that has previouly published work by yours truly and Joe Gresh. Mike’s Vietnam adventure is here.   I enjoyed reading it and I think you will, too.


One of these days, I keep thinking to myself.  Vietnam must be one hell of a motorcycle destination.  Good buddies Buffalo and his cousin Tim also rode Vietnam, and you can read that story here.   It’s weird…I met both of those guys on a CSC Baja ride, too!


The best bikes for Baja?  It’s all right here!


Riding Baja?  Make sure you insure with BajaBound, our preferred insurance company!


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Phavorite Photos: Orlando and Velma

We started this Phavorite Photo series a short while ago at Python Pete’s suggestion, and while going through a few of my favorites recently the photo you see above popped out.  That’s my good buddies Orlando and Velma on their CSC RX3 headed up to Dante’s View, a natural overook that provides what has to be the best view of Death Valley (the view is shown in the photo below).  We were on the Destinations Deal tour, and Orlando and Velma bought their RX3 motorcycle specifically to go with us on this ride.  The Destinations Deal was a grand ride, and Orlando and Velma are great traveling companions.

I grabbed that photo of Orlando and Velma with my little Nikon D3300, its kit 18-55mm lens, and a polarizer. The D3300 was a superb traveling SLR.  The photo needed a little tweaking in PhotoShop to bring it up (they almost all always do).  A bit of cropping, a correction in levels, another correction in curves, eliminating an unsightly sign that was in the background, and just a little bit of vibrance and saturation enhancement.  Here’s what the original looked like:

I was particularly impressed with Orlando’s RX3 motorcycle. This was the second time I led a CSC tour with folks riding two up on an RX3. Orlando had no difficulty hanging with the rest of us (we were all riding solo), and surprisingly, his bike returned the same fuel economy.  There’s a lot to be said for small bikes.  I’ve said some of it before.

I have more than a few favorite photos.  You’ll see more here on the ExhaustNotes blog.


Something we’ll do in each one of these Phavorite Photos blogs is show our prior favorites.  Just click on the photo to get to each earlier blog.  There’s only one so far; there will be more.


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CSC’s 2021 RX4 Colors

The new CSC RX4 is here, and they are moving out quickly from the CSC plant in Azusa, California.  CSC Motorcycles is offering two colors on the new RX4, as shown in the photo above Steve Seidner recently sent to me.  One is a vibrant yellow and the other is a deep, rich blue.  I like them.  If I had to pick one, I’d go with the yellow.  Yellow just seems to work on ADV bike.  There are a number of changes incorporated on the new RX4 motorcycles, as outlined in the CSC mailer below.  The big ones are the spoked tubeless wheels, the new TFT dash, and a tire pressure monitoring system.

We tested the RX4 extensively when it first came to America and published a comparison between it, the CSC RX3, and the Kawasasaki KLR 650.  You can see those reports here.  I may well have been the first American to ever ride an RX4 when I was in China visiting the Zongshen factory not that long ago.   I rode the prototype (literally a 450cc engine in an RX3), and on a subsequent visit, one of the early preproduction models.

Tooling around the Zongshen test track on a preproduction RX4…those were fun times.

I love traveling to China, and I particularly like visiting the Zongshen plant and Chongqing.  It’s a city most folks haven’t heard of here in the US, even though at 34 million inhabitants it is one of the largest cities on the planet.  With that, here’s the info from CSC Motorcycles:


Get More Than Ever! CSCMOTORCYCLES.COM

The new 2021 CSC RX4 is the motorcycle ADV riders have been waiting for. Powerful. Economical. Modern.  The RX4 is an all-around versatile motorcycle that is perfect for real-world riding – including highway cruising, adventure touring, or simply commuting to work economically.

The 450cc single-cylinder, 4-valve, overhead cam, counter-balanced engine produces 40.2 horsepower and achieves a top speed over 95 miles per hour. The RX4 is water-cooled and equipped with Delphi fuel injection and electric start. The bike features a six-speed transmission.

The new RX4 includes an adjustable windscreen, comfortable touring seat and foot pegs with removable rubber inserts. The RX4 features an all digital TFT Display Gauges: dash with digital speedometer, tachometer, odometer, trip odometer, fuel gauge, gear indicator, neutral light, temperature gauge, clock, turn signal and high beam indicators, and Bluetooth connectivity for caller ID. Above the dash there are USB and 12-volt charging outlets included as standard equipment.

The new CSC RX4 includes a 300-watt alternator to power accessories with two prewired outlets under the seat.

The RX4 features LED turn signals and brake light plus LED day-time running lights. The headlamps are controlled by an automatic light sensor. The RX4 has a standard 5.3-gallon gas tank with locking cap. With fuel consumption exceeding 60 miles per gallon, the RX4 has an honest range approaching 300 miles.

The CSC RX4 is outfitted with spoked wheels, black anodized aluminum rims and 80/20 tubeless tires.

The RX4 comes standard with molded side cases, mounting racks and a TALL rear top box – which is large enough for a full-face helmet. Or RX4 owners can select the OPTIONAL package of Tourfella aluminum side cases and rear top box, all with custom side pannier and rear mounting racks.

The CSC RX4 is an unmatched value in the adventure motorcycle category. The powerful and economical 450cc motor is paired with a huge list of standard features that cannot be duplicated elsewhere.

CSC RX4 Standard Features:

      • 450cc liquid-cooled engine, 4-valve, overhead cam, with counter-balancer.
      • Long maintenance intervals (5,000-mile valve adjustment) and easy repairs backed by a full Owner’s Manual and online service tutorials.
      • US Delphi EFI system.
      • 6-speed transmission.
      • Stainless steel twin pipe exhaust.
      • 5.3-gallon fuel tank with locking gas cap keyed to ignition.
      • All Digital TFT Display Gauges: dash with digital speedometer, tachometer, odometer, trip odometer, fuel gauge, gear indicator, neutral light, temperature gauge, clock, turn signal and high beam indicators.
      • Adjustable windshield.
      • 12-volt and USB charging outlets on dash.
      • LED turn signals and brake light.
      • Dual-flash hazard lights.
      • 3D Anti-fog headlamp with LED day-time running light. Low light sensor with handlebar switch controls.
      • 300-watt alternator.
      • Automotive-type waterproof connectors under the seat. An optional handlebar-switch for accessory outlets is available.
      • Adjustable inverted front forks with anodized finish. Fork lock keyed to ignition.
      • Adjustable rear shock absorber.
      • Large diameter dual front and single rear disk brakes with ABS.
      • Front 110/80-19 spoked wheel with tubeless dual sport tire, black aluminum rim.
      • Rear 150/70-17 spoked wheel with tubeless dual sport tire, black aluminum rim.
      • Tire Pressure Monitoring System {TPMS}.
      • Front and rear mud guards, with added rear lower mud guard.
      • Steel engine skid plate. An optional full coverage aluminum skid plate upgrade is available.
      • Frame-mounted engine guards.
      • Comes standard with molded luggage. An upgraded aluminum luggage package is available.
      • Wide foot pegs with removable rubber inserts.
      • Passenger foot pegs and grab rails.
      • Tapered aluminum handlebars with bar-end weights.
      • Dual rear view mirrors.
      • Ergonomic rider and passenger seat.
      • Available Colors: Fire Yellow or Saphire Blue.
      • The RX4 is covered by a ONE YEAR unlimited mileage warranty.

If you’re a serious international adventure rider, the RX4 is one of the best motorcycles available.  I believe it is one of the six best motorcycles you can take into Baja if you are seeking a great bike at a super price.  You can read more about the new RX4 on the CSC blog.


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Good buddies and a great ride…

When the phone rings and it’s good buddy Duane wanting to head into the San Bernardino Mountains for a motorcycle ride, I know it’s time to hop to.  That’s what I did last week and it was an awesome ride.  East on the 210, up Waterman to Hwy 18 into the mountains, and then down the 138 on the other side to ride home through the Cajon Pass.  Good times, and this trip was made all the more special because of two more good friends we connected with on the ride.

Duane and his magnificent Indian up in the San Bernardino Mountains. It was a glorious day.
Geezers.  Motorcycle geezers.  CSC Mustang and RX3 geezers.  Former Army motorcycle-riding geezers.  Former Army motorcycle-riding gun nut geezers. Whatcha gonna do?  Great minds work alike.

It was a grand ride through one of the greatest motorcycle playgrounds on the planet.  The weather was perfect and the bikes were running like Chinese 250s (I was going to say like Swiss watches, but I have Swiss watches and I have Chinese 250s, and the Chinese 250s run better).  Both the Indians were running great.  My Indian is an Enfield made in India.   Duane’s bike is an Indian made in America.  It’s very confusing, I know.

A grand day for a grand ride.  No polarizers or saturation sliders needed.

So we turned onto the 138 somewhere in one of the little mountaintop towns and we had a fun slalom down through the twisties.  As we approached Silverwood Lake, I wanted to stop to get a photo of the bikes.  There’s this huge parking lot and it was completely empty, so I thought we would park there and I could angle my shot for the best photo.

So we’re rolling to a stop and I noticed this silver SUV pulling in behind us, and wouldn’t you know it, the guy parks right next to us.  I was thinking that would completely screw up my photo.  You know the drill…a parking lot the size of Texas and the guy, this, this, this interloper parks right next to me.  I was all set to dip into my not-such-a-nice-guy routine when Mr. Silver SUV stepped out of his car with a giant grin.

Twin Peaks Steve!

Twin Peaks Steve and Glendora Duane…two great guys!

Wow, we were ever surprised and happy.  Duane and I have a lot in common, as alluded to in one of the photo captions above, and Twin Peaks Steve is right there with both of us in every regard.

We had a real nice visit overlooking Silverwood Lake and caught up on things.  Steve’s beautiful wife Rosemary was there, too, and we had a wonderful chat with her.  I can’t tell you how great it was bumping into these two.  Steve told me he recognized us when we rode by and he and Rosemary followed us down hoping to have a chance to connect.  I’m glad he did.  We all met back in the CSC Mustang days about 10 years ago, when Steve was the very first guy to order a custom CSC Bobber.  It was one of the prettiest bikes we ever built at CSC.

Steve’s custom CSC 150 Bobber. It was a real show stopper…a visually arresting, gorgeous little jewel of a motorcycle.

Twin Peaks Steve rode with Duane and me on a bunch of CSC rides, and the more we learned about him back in those days, the more impressed we were.  How about ultra-lights as a hobby?   Yep, Steve did that, too.

Ah, for the love of adventure. Twin Peaks Steve has done it all!

Then CSC went into the ADV motorcycle business by importing the RX3.  Steve and Duane both bought bikes from the very first RX3 shipment to arrive in America, and we rode together (Duane, Twin Peaks Steve, and yours truly) on a bunch more rides.

One of my favorite photos of Steve.

Steve is a serious rider and camper, and he outfitted his RX3 with all the good stuff for disappearing into the boonies.  He did a lot of trips up and down the 395 (one of the prettiest highways in America), and the motormaestro even did a guest blog or two about his adventures when I was writing the CSC blog.  If you poke around on the CSC blog and search on “Twin Peaks Steve” you’ll find he’s a regular there!

Steve’s RX3 somewhere up along Highway 395. Steve is the real deal; he’s done some amazing trips on his RX3.

What a ride and what a day!

So, how about you?  Are you getting out on your motorcycle?  Do me and yourself a favor and live large, like Steve, Duane, and the rest of us.  Get off your computer, get your riding gear, and get on the road!


More great rides are right here!

Guilt trips…

I haven’t been riding the new Enfield all that much since I bought it, which was exactly one week before the virus hit our shores.   You know, Covid 19, the lockdown, autonomous zone crises, and all that.  And as a consequence, I’ve come under heavy criticism from two good buddies for my failure to accumulate miles on the Taj Mahal (as I sometimes refer to my orange Interceptor).

“I can’t believe you’re not riding that new Enfield all the time,” said Joe Gresh.  Guilt.  The guy reminds me of my Mom.  You should try riding across China with him.

And then after I published that bit about getting out on the RX3, good buddy Rob had to weigh in:  “Take the Enfield on the same road,” he said.  “It will be a completely different ride.”  Guilt again.  If you don’t believe me, read the comments on the RX3 blog a few entries down.  Rob, a guy who rode with us on the Western America Adventure Ride.  He was waiting for us on a lawn chair by the side of the road early in the morning when we first met, already suited up, just before we crossed into Idaho.  Rob’s RX3 was parked right alongside, both man and motorcycle ready to roll as soon as we approached so we wouldn’t have to wait. He seemed like such a nice guy back then.

Well, it worked, guys.  Your guilt tripping got me out on the Enfield two days later, and it was awesome.  I didn’t do the Glendora Ridge Road ride, but I was up in the San Gabriels.  The very eastern end of that range, actually, riding deep into those glorious So Cal mountains through the little town of Lytle Creek.  I went right past the West End Gun Club without stopping to send lead downrange, and that doesn’t happen too often.  Not stopping in, that is.

So this is another one of those blogs where I’ll let the photos do the talking.  Here we go, folks.

The first time I ever put gas in the new Enfield, and it returned 58 mpg and change. That’s consistent with what I saw on the first tankful on the Enfield I rode in Baja. By the end of that trip (nearly 1500 miles later), the bike was consistently getting between 70 and 72 mpg. Not too shabby for a 650 twin.
This is a good-looking motorcycle. My good buddy Art over at Douglas Motorcycles gave me a hell of a deal on it.
Sorry, I couldn’t resist. I take a good photo. I look better in a full face helmet, people tell me.
Not today, but I had to stop for the photo op.  Top gun. That’s what I want to be.
You could interpret that sign to mean it’s okay to shoot at my street legal vehicle. Time to move along.
Ah, the great San Gabriels, just west of the little town of Lytle Creek. The road dead ends a few miles further.
A man, a motorcycle, America, and a mirror. Gets me every time.
Time to open her up a bit. But not too much. I’m still breaking in the Royal Enfield.
Editors hate these “motorcycle by the side of the road” shots. I kind of like them, especially when the road is in the San Gabriels.
And finally, re-entering the burbs. Lawrence of Suburbia, as Gresh sometimes calls me.  Look at those donuts.  There’s probably 20,000 miles of tire wear there;  the guy who did it probably owns stock in a tire company.  I used to have tire company shares when I worked for GenCorp, the corporation that owns General Tire, but that’s a story for another blog.

Wanna know a secret?  The ride above occurred several days ago.  I went for another ride this past Friday with good buddy Duane.  Duane was on his Indian, a motorcycle made in America.  I was on my Enfield, formerly a British motorcycle but now made in India.  As you can see above, the Enfield is a glorious orange and that’s the fastest color…just ask my good buddy Orlando (about the orange thing, that is).  Duane and I had a hell of a ride, and along the way we bumped into good buddies Steve and Rosemary by Silverwood.  But that, too, is a story for another blog.  Stay tuned!


Want to read about the Royal Enfield ride in Baja?   Just click here!  Want to know more about the CSC RX3 I mentioned above?  The skinny is just a click away.  Are you interested in a killer deal on a Triumph or a Royal Enfield?  Check out Douglas Motorcycles in San Bernardino!


Want to read a story about another beautiful motorcycle?  Motorcycle Classics recently published my piece about good buddy Steve’s stunning and brilliantly bright red ’82 Yamaha Seca.   You can read it here.

Colombia Day 5: Villa de Leyva

We’re up to Day 5 in Colombia from my December 2015 circumnavigation of the Andes Mountains.  The riding was incredible, the scenery even more so.  Juan and Carlos were amazing riders, as was every person I saw on a motorcycle in Colombia.   Ah, enough of a prelude…here’s what I posted for CSC Motorcycles on December 19, 2015.


Actually, it’s pronounced “Via Da Layba.” I’m learning how to be a Colombian and how to speak like one. Colombian Spanish is different than Mexican Spanish. Much to my regret, I don’t speak either one. Someday.

Juan Carlos and Carlos told me they’re making me an honorary C0lombian because my riding has progressed significantly in the last few days. Folks, these two guys are the best riders I’ve ever ridden with, and for them to tell me that was quite a compliment. Every rider I know in the U.S. would be subpar compared to your typical Colombian motorcyclist. The way they carve corners and carve through heavy traffic on these mountain roads is a thing a beauty. They are the best riders I’ve ever seen, and the two guys I’m riding with are beyond incredible. But I digress…more on that later. The focus of this blog entry is Day 5, which was yesterday for me.

As you know from reading the blog, we stayed in Barichara. It’s an awesome little town and we stayed in an awesome little hotel. Getting there was an experience. We passed through a bunch of small towns up here in the Andes Mountains. In these small towns, everything is either uphill or downhill. The roads are either cobblestone or dirt. And when I say cobblestone, I’m not talking about little rocks. These are 6 to 12 inch boulders that are basically mashed together to form a street. The cobblestones (actually, cobbleboulders) throw the bike left and right and up and down, and this is all going on while riding up or down extremely steep hills. The RX3 is the perfect bike for this. I couldn’t imagine doing it on anything bigger or heavier.

We stayed at the Artepolis Hotel, and it was an experience. The guy in the room next to me was an Austrian photographer who came here just to photograph the place. It’s that stunning. Here’s the hotel the next morning (it was dark when we arrived the preceding evening, and we had to ride up a rough dirt road to get to the hotel).

The next morning Juan and Carlos wanted to ride a bit and get some photos. They took me to the edge of a cliff and we got some great shots…here’s one of Carlos I especially like:

And here are a couple more:

We continued on a paved road to a little town called Guane, and along the way I spotted a couple of Colombian vultures perched in a tree not far from the road. I always wanted to get a decent shot of a vulture during my Baja travels, but my results have always been mediocre. I’m carrying my 70-300 Nikon lens on this trip, and I thought I would try for that vulture photo I’ve been wanting for years. The lighting was perfect and I think I did okay…

After photographing the vultures, I grabbed a couple of shots from the saddle on our way to Guane.

Guane is a beautiful little town with a magnificent church…I was working the little Nikon D3300 and its 18-55 lens as best I could. That camera is really doing a great job on this trip. I bought it because I wanted something light and small. You folks who are planning to ride to Baja with us in March might want to give the D3300 a look if you don’t already have a camera. It really adds a lot to the adventure if you can capture stuff like this.

In many Colombian towns, the taxi services use tuk-tuks. Tuk-tuks are little three wheel things that have two wheels in the back and one wheel up front. I’d seen them in Thailand, but encountering them again in Colombia was something I had not expected. The ones in Colombia are made by Bajaj, an Indian manufacturer (as in India, not Indian motorcycles). They’re powered by a little 200cc single, and I was surprised at it’s ability to haul Carlos, Juan, and me up and down the hills in Barichara (we took one to go to dinner in Barichara). Juan told me he tested one at Bajaj’s request a year or so ago and he was impressed with it.

The tuk-tuks are often customized with really cool paintwork, and so are some of the other commercial vehicles. Here’s the artwork on one such vehicle in Guane that caught my eye:

After our brief exploration of Guane, we rode back to Barichara. The guys had been telling me I had to see the cemetery, and they were right. It seemed weird to visit a cemetery for the artistry, but it was impressive…

After that we were back on the road, headed for Villa de Leyva. I had mentioned to Juan that I wanted to get photos of the police motorcycles in Colombia, and when he spotted a few motor officers in one of the many small towns we rode through, I checked another photo op off the list.

This first photo shows one of the more common Colombian police bikes, the Suzuki 200 single.

Here’s another bike the Colombian police use…the Suzuki V-Strom 650…

There’s a lot more to tell you about the Colombian police motorcycles, but that will come later. I’m seeing and learning so much I just can’t get it all into the blog. I’m thinking maybe another book is in order. We’ll see.

Juan found our hotel just outside of Villa de Leyva, we checked in, and then we rode into town. This is the town square…it’s the largest in all of Colombia.

If you’re really impressed with that last shot, so am I. I wish I could take credit for it. It was a photo for sale in one of the Villa de Leyva stores, and I shot a photo of that photo before they told me I couldn’t.

It was a good day. The next one would be even better.


And one last thing, folks.  On that day in Barichara before we left, I did a video in their beautiful cemetery.  This wasn’t in the original blog, but I thought I’d add it here.


One more thing…if you’d like to read the first several blogs from Colombia, you can do so here.

New CSC RX3 Colors

I recently heard from good buddy Steve Seidner over at alma mater CSC Motorcycles that the new 2020 RX3 colors have arrived, and the colors are sharp!  Take a look:

Steve told me that the new 2020 RX3 includes substantial refinements and that the bike has steadily improved since its 2015 introduction.  I thought the 2015 version (the one I ride) was impressive; to hear that it has improved makes the RX3 even more desirable.  The 2020 RX3 motorcycles are in stock now, and the price has dropped to $3995.  That’s a hell of a deal.

The RX3 story makes for an interesting read and if you’d like to know more about these motorcycles, pick up a copy of 5000 Miles At 8000 RPM.

The Bullet

Dan on a CSC Baja trip above the Rumarosa Grade.

You might wonder why the first photo in a blog about the Royal Enfield Bullet is a CSC TT250.  Let me explain.  That guy in the photo above is good buddy Dan, with whom I’ve ridden in Baja a couple of times on the CSC trips (once on TT250s, and the other time on the RX3s).   Dan is the only guy I know who owns an Enfield Bullet, and before I go into the good, the bad, and the ugly regarding my Bullet experience, I called him to get his take on the bike.  Dan has owned his Bullet since 2013, it’s the fuel injected model (like the one I rode), and he has 7500 miles on it.  Lest you think Dan doesn’t ride much, he owns several motorcycles, and that’s why he only has 7500 miles on his Enfield.

Dan told me his Bullet has been trouble free, but he also told me he is fastidious in maintaining it and he is a conservative rider.  Dan said things vibrate loose and you have to keep an eye on that, but his bike has never broken down, it’s never had any electrical issues (like the missing and stumbling Joe Gresh and I experienced on the entire Baja trip), and he likes the bike.  That’s good input, and it’s what I hoped I would hear.

For reasons I’ll explain later, I asked Dan about the rear sprocket and chain maintenance, and he laughed.  “It’s the only thing I was going to mention,” Dan said.   He replaced his rear sprocket at 7500 miles, and he is a fanatic about chain maintenance and lubrication.   More on that in a bit, folks.

Another bit of background up front.  Royal Enfield North America was kind enough to lend Joe and I a Bullet.  Our particular bike was a 2016 press bike that had been stored at a dealer for some time (not Southern California Motorcycles, but another Enfield dealer), and when we received it, it was in a state of extreme neglect.   I won’t go into that in detail (you can read about it in a prior blog); I’ll just mention it again and touch on it a few times through this post.  The Enfield Bullet is an old school bike and it requires maintenance; this one had essentially none and it put a damper on our trip.  I wanted to love the bike and write great things about it; the condition of the bike made that difficult.

This is what a motorcycle is supposed to look like.
Joe Gresh on a Royal Enfield Bullet in Baja.   Life is good.

With that as a backdrop, let’s get into a detailed review.

I think the Bullet is a beautiful motorcycle.   It has a look I just love.  It screams 1950s, it screams British, and I love the feel and sound of a big single.  The black paint and chrome work for me.  The pinstriping is superb, and I found a video that shows how Royal Enfield does it…

The centerpiece of any motorcycle has to be the engine, and on this count, the Bullet excels.  That beautiful, tall, exquisitely-finned single and its polished cases can only be described as stunning. It’s what a motorcycle is all about.  No water-cooled, take-the-fairings-off-and-I-look-like-a-washing-machine silliness here.   Nope.  This is a motorcycle, with the accent on motor.  I love the look.

A motorcycle with a motor you can see!

The Bullet’s fenders are enormous, deeply-valanced metal structures.  They have a very 1950s look, which I like.  No plastic here, folks.  Curiously, the rear fender was not centered on the rear tire when viewed from behind.  The wheels were aligned and the bike tracked true.  My take is that the tolerance build up and assembly technique allowed the mismatch.  My old 1978 Triumph Bonneville suffered from the same cosmetic issue.

Deeply valanced and all metal…no mud is going to splash up on this puppy!
The rear fender is similarly deep and serious. Check out the support bars running from the fender to the frame. It’s a good place to attach bungee cords.  Note also the stepped seat.   It was hard, but comfortable.  Check out the rear drum brake (the newer ones have disk brakes front and rear, and ABS).
See the rear fender and seat bias to the left? The tires were aligned and the bike tracked true. This bike started life at Southern California Motorcycles and I wished it had been delivered by them (it would have been in much better shape). Our bike had been kept at another California Enfield dealer.

The front brake is good.  It’s a disk brake and it stops well.  The rear brake on the 2016 model I rode was a drum brake, which was adequate but not great.   The newer Enfield 500s have ABS and a disk brake in back.   I didn’t attempt to get the brakes to fade.  That sort of whackadoodle stuff is best left to the mainstream moto media journalists as they flog bikes and overuse catchy phrases like “the controls fell easily to hand…” (that’s Gresh’s line; I wished I had thought of it).  The brakes worked fine for us.

The Bullet comes with a decent tool kit (that’s the good news), which we actually had to use several times in Baja (that’s the bad news).   It’s stored in a key-locked metal container on the left side of the bike.  There’s a similar key-locked metal container on the right, and it provides access to the air cleaner.

The tool kit and the fuse box are inside the ignition-key-opened box on the left side of the bike.
The air cleaner is in in the locked container on the right side of the bike.

There’s another key-locked metal cover on the left side of the bike covering the battery, and that’s another good news story.  The battery is big, and the terminals are accessible even with the cover on.  That makes good sense.  On our press bike, the battery was shot when we received the bike (we didn’t know that before we left for Mexico, though) and we had to buy a new battery in Guerrero Negro.   We bought it at a tiny shop tucked away on a dirt road, and as you can imagine they didn’t stock Royal Enfield parts.  We bought one that was close enough in size to go into the bike (but we couldn’t put the battery cover back on after installation).  It worked just fine.  Like they say, halitosis is better than no breath at all.

The Bullet has a kick starter.  It looks cool, but the big single is tough to kick over.  Both Gresh and I failed to start the bike with the kick start.   I view the kick starter as more ornamental than functional.  The electric starter works well, although our bike would go through several crankshaft rotations before it fired up.  It was kind of like starting an old radial-engine airplane.  It would get the engine turning, somewhere in there a little British chap yelled CONTACT, and then the engine would run on its own.

The wheels and tires on the Enfield are another old school touch.   They’re both 19 inchers, with a 3.25×19 in front and 3.50×19 in the rear.  Both have old-school tread designs.   Both felt secure on the road and in the dirt, their narrow treads notwithstanding.

The Bullet’s 3.25×19 front tire.
The Bullet’s 3.50×19 rear tire.

The fuel cap was not attached to the fuel tank, and it was the kind you completely unscrew.   The Enfield website says the Bullet’s fuel tank holds 3.5 gallons.   On the long stretch from Catavina to the Pemex station 20 miles north of Guerrero Negro (a distance of exactly 110 miles) the low fuel light indicator was just starting to flicker about 100 yards shy of the gas station.  I don’t know for sure how many miles are left when that happens, but with a published capacity of 3.5 gallons, I suspect that like most fuel injected bikes, the low fuel light comes on early.  Motorcycle manufacturers do that to keep the fuel pump immersed in fuel (it’s how the fuel pump is cooled).  The Bullet’s fuel economy was superior.   Gresh got just over 75 mpg riding it down to the border, and I got 72.something riding it north from the border.   With that kind of fuel economy, I’m guessing that when the low fuel light comes on there’s still a good two gallons left in the tank.

At first, I thought the Bullet’s horn was tragic.  It bleated like a baby lamb (sitting on the motorcycle, I could hear it, but no one else could).  Then the battery died, and like I explained above, by the grace of God we found a useable replacement in Guerrero Negro.   With the new battery the horn flat out honked.   It’s a good horn, one that speaks with the authority a proper 500cc thumper should have.

The Bullet’s horn works well with a good battery.

Instrumentation can only be described as primitive.  Adequate would be stretching the word.  There’s a speedometer and an odometer, but no tripmeter.  There’s no tach, but the engine speeds were low enough that you could almost calculate rpm by counting thumps and using a wristwatch.  There’s a fuel warning light but no fuel gage.  That makes for dicey riding.  You either have to hope the fuel warning light leaves enough range to make the next gas station (very dicey in parts of Baja), or you need to remember the odometer reading when you last filled up (very dicey at my age), or you need to ride with someone who has a trip meter on their bike (very dicey unless you know people in high places in Royal Enfield North America, like I do).  There’s a check engine light (which is kind of funny, because like I explained at the beginning, this motorcycle is all motor…yep, the engine’s there alright!), there’s a turn signal indicator (which I never could see in the daytime), there’s a high beam indicator (can’t see it in the daytime), and there’s a neutral light (same story, you just can’t see it during the day).   One other mild concern for me was that when I cruised between 55 and 65 mph (the Enfield’s sweet spot), the speedo needle obscures the odometer and I could not tell how far I’d ridden when I tried to use the odometer as a fuel gage.

The ignition switch has two positions (on and off). It’s labeled “IGNITION” just in case you don’t get it. Speedo, odo, neutral, high beam, turn signals, check engine, low fuel, and that’s it. The neutral light is actually on in this photo.

The Bullet has both a centerstand and a kickstand, and it was easy to deploy both.  On our  ride, after the third day I was sure the bike was leaning more to the left than it had been on the kickstand.  Gresh looked at it and he started laughing.  It sure was.  The thing leaned further left than Bernie Sanders. The sidestand and the left footpeg are bolted to a metal plate, which is in turn bolted to the frame.  That plate was bending.  Gresh deployed the sidestand and stood on it, which bent the mounting plate back to a more reasonable position.  We thought we were good until the bike died on the road a short while later.  It didn’t start missing or stumbling this time; it just died as if someone had turned the ignition off.   Here’s why:  The kickstand actuates a “kickstand down” switch, which prohibits engine operation if the kickstand is extended (sort of; bear with me on this part of the story).

We had another failure the morning we left Guerrero Negro, and it was one of those sudden “ignition off” failures.  Joe unbolted the kickstand interlock switch by the side of the road out there in the Baja desert and we did a quick test to find out if the switch needs to be open or closed to allow engine operation.   We quickly concluded it is a normally-closed switch, and then we simply ziptied the switch to the frame after removing it from the kickstand mounting plate.   From that point on, our easy-to-fool Bullet thought the kickstand was always up.  Problem solved; no more engine sudden death syndrome.  Yeah, things were going south, but in its defense, problems on the Bullet are easy to diagnose and fix.

Joe Gresh, inflight missile mechanic.
The plate holding the kickstand and the right footpeg. The bad news it bends easily. The good news is it bends easily back. More bad news is that bending it back into position disrupted the relationship between the kickstand interlock switch and the kickstand.  More good news is that it was easy to bypass.
The kickstand interlock switch, ziptied to the frame after removal. No more engine shutting off.

The plate securing the kickstand is either underdesigned (i.e., it’s too weak), or the metal was improperly heat treated and it’s too soft. In the bike’s defense, I was carrying about 50-60 lbs of stuff in my Wolfman bags and Nelson-Rigg tailpack, and I have a habit of standing on the left footpeg and throwing my right leg over the luggage when I get on a bike.  That puts a strain on the kickstand and its mount.  But that’s a likely scenario for any rider, and the bike should have been able to take it without the kickstand mounting plate bending.

One more thing on the kickstand switch…the logic is weird.   With the bike on the sidestand, you can crank the engine all you want.  It just won’t fire.   Consequently, you can’t idle the bike to let it warm up on the kickstand (if the bike is running, as soon as you extend the kickstand, the engine dies).   But you can crank the starter with the bike on the kickstand.  I think that’s dumb, because it will allow you to  propel the bike forward on the kickstand if the bike is in gear.   On most bikes, with the kickstand down you can’t crank or run the motorcycle.  That’s how I would do it, but then, I don’t sell a zillion bikes a year like Royal Enfield does, so what do I know?

I found the Bullet to be surprisingly comfortable, more so even than the Interceptor and most other motorcycles.  The seat was hard and the step in it prevents moving around during long hours in the saddle, but the ergonomics worked for me.  Gresh said the same thing.  The bike doesn’t have a fairing or a windshield, but it was supremely comfortable at any speed.

Suspension, front and rear, is non-adjustable on the Bullet.   It’s not an issue for me.   Stack 20 mattresses, put a pea underneath the mess, and I can’t tell you if that pea is there or not.  For me, adjustable suspension is the same sort of thing.  I think the entire concept of adjustable suspension for most folks is a joke (particularly suspension dampening), little more than a marketing gimmick.  I’ve had bikes with adjustable suspension that I rode for years and I never changed the factory suspension settings.  Your mileage may vary.    I don’t know the suspension travel, but whatever it is, I found it to be sufficient.  I carried a lot of freight on the Bullet over roughly 1300 Baja miles and I never bottomed out.

The Bullet’s top speed was somewhere in the indicated 72-73 mph range.  The bike had enough power for passing, but just barely.  Again, for the kind of riding I do, it was adequate.  On the US freeways down to Mexico, we ran at about 60-65 mph, we stuck to the right lane, and we were fine.  Enfield advertises 27 horsepower for this motorcycle, and that figure sounds about right.  My 250cc Zongshen RX3 has 25 horsepower, it’s a little lighter, and it’s a little faster.   But I recognize that nobody buys the 500cc Enfield to race other motorcycles.  I suspect the people who buy this bike don’t care about 0-60 times or top speeds.  It’s all about the vintage riding experience, and in that regard, the Enfield excels.

The Bullet frame is a massive tubular steel affair, like they made them when men were men and well, you get the idea.   On some of the rear portions of the frame, the tube diameter was so large my bungee cord hooks wouldn’t fit.  The Bullet has these sort of frame runners that go outside the bike on either side in the rear; those were very handy for bungee cord hookups.

On the ride home, with 20 miles to go at the end of our trip, the Bullet started misbehaving big time.  It was clanking and banging, so much so that I initially thought I had thrown a rod or toasted a main bearing.   Nope, it wasn’t that at all.   We hit a bit of rain, and even though we had lubed the chain that morning and found it to be sufficiently tight, it was bone dry from the rain and it was hopping over the rear sprocket.   The chain was already rusty, and the rear sprocket teeth were rounded and hooked.  In under 3500 miles.  Amazing.  That’s what my good buddy Dan laughed about when I called him earlier.  His take on it is that Enfield uses a very cheap and soft rear sprocket.  That and the neglectful dealer’s lack of maintenance on our Bullet combined to toast the chain, the rear sprocket, and probably the front sprocket.  In defense of the Bullet, it got me home, but the last few miles of our trip were at 10 mph or less.

As I stated at the beginning of this blog, and as Joe and I talked about in previous blogs, the dealer who had this bike did nothing we could see to maintain it, and they certainly did nothing to prep the bike for our Baja trip.  When the Bullet was delivered, the oil was a quart down, the chain was rusty, the spark plug wire and lead were corroded, and the battery was on its last legs.  Before the bike was delivered, I called the dealer to ask if the Bullet had a tool kit, and the salesperson I spoke with became defensive.  Like Steve Martin used to say, well, excuuuuse me.   The bike was a press bike, and it probably was abused by others writing about, you know, the controls falling easily to hand and such (and maybe doing burnouts and wheelies), but there was just no excuse for the bike to be delivered in the condition it was in.  It only had 2264 miles on the odometer when we got it.  Royal Enfield was apologetic and embarrassed by all of it; the dealer should be ashamed.  I think that was a major screwup on their part.  Maybe they just don’t care, or perhaps they’re too busy finding new ways to inflate ADM fees and overcharge for desmodromic valve adjustments.  Whatever.  I’ll never buy a motorcycle from them.  On the other hand, the dealer who provided the Interceptor (Southern California Motorcycles) delivered that bike in perfect condition.  That’s the way it’s supposed to be.

The Bullet dealer’s failure to prep the 500 was unfortunate.  I really wanted to love the thing and maybe buy one, but I can’t after what we experienced. That’s a shame.  The Bullet reminded me of my ’92 Harley Softail in many ways.  It was a paint-shaker at speed, it was okay on the freeway, it excelled on country roads, and it looked, felt, and sounded like a motorcycle should.

The last topic I’ll touch on is the Bullet’s pricing.   For whatever reason, I thought the Bullet’s MSRP was around $4795, but I was off by nearly a thousand bucks.   A new Enfield 500 is $5599, and that’s before the fiction dealers call freight and setup.  A new 650 Interceptor is $5799.   To me, that’s nuts.  For an extra two hundred bucks, the Interceptor is just too much motorcycle to pass up.  Maybe Enfield is going to phase out the 500.   Or maybe the Bullet just costs that much to make (which I think is very, very unlikely, as any Bullet tooling or other fixed costs were probably amortized before most of the folks reading this were born).  I like the Bullet enough to consider going the Joe Gresh route (you know, buy a used one for cheap).  But a nationwide search on CycleTrader showed almost no used Bullets for sale, and the few that were listed were close enough to a new bike’s price that their owners (in my opinion) were dreaming.  Go figure.  I guess folks who own these bikes just don’t sell them, and I think that speaks well for the bike.

You might be wondering…why did we take a 2016 Bullet instead of a 2019 new Enfield 500?  Hey, you go to war with the Army you have, and the 2016 Bullet is what the good folks at Royal Enfield North America gave to us.  I don’t know if some of the things I’m writing about have been addressed in newer versions.   Maybe it’s not fair to do a road test on a bike that’s already 3 years old, but if there’s any unfairness here, it’s in the fact that the bike was just flat neglected, and that’s something we had no control over.

So there you have it.  Neglected or not, the Bullet got us down to Guerrero Negro and back, and it took us to see our friends in Scammon’s Lagoon.  The whale watching this year was awesome…some of the best I’ve ever experienced.

Next up?  Our take on the new Interceptor.  That’s really exciting, both because it’s a new model and to my knowledge we are the first folks in the US to take the new 650 Enfield on a real adventure ride.

Stay tuned, my friends…

RX3 to RX4 Comparisons: Part 3

The RX4 on the road. I wanted to get a shot at the truck scale, but conditions were not conducive to good photography.

The next two blogs (this one and the next) address more differences between the RX3 and the RX4, including the weight, the dash and instrumentation, the rear fender, tire sizes, the radiators, the radiator bottle fill port, the kickstand, the rear brake and gearshift levers, the rear wheel adjust mechanism, the swingarm, and the engine mounts.   This blog will focus on the bike’s weight and the two bikes’ highway performance.  I’ll sweep up the other differences mentioned above in the next blog.

Let’s talk about the 450-lb gorilla in the room first, and that’s the RX4’s weight.  The RX4 is a heavier bike than the RX3, and I guess the question is:  Is this a good thing or a bad thing?  It’s all a question of perspective and intended purpose.

For starters, I still don’t have an accurate, measured weight on either bike.   That’s a shame on me, although I will tell you that I tried.

My plan was to get the RX4 weighed first, and then return with my RX3 to do the same.  I took the RX4 to our local certified truck scale, but the bike was too light to register on the scale and a loudspeaker-borne voice basically told me to get out of Dodge.  It was a scary experience.  There’s a monstrous Petro truck stop on the I-10 freeway about 10 miles from where I live, and I thought it would be a simple matter to roll the RX4 onto the scales and come back with The Number.  That was my plan, anyway.

I entered the super-busy truck stop through an area teaming with idling 18-wheelers, engines barking and belching, crammed together weighting (or is that waiting?) to funnel onto the Petro parking lot scales.  On my RX4, I was acutely aware of three things:  The guys driving these monsters couldn’t see me, the engine noise and fumes were overwhelming, and the RX4’s fat rear end (those Tourfella bags are wider than the bike’s handlebars) made maneuvering through the 18-wheeler maze a dicey proposition.  The pucker factor was elevated, folks.  Big time.

I made it through, though, and I was finally on a scale with a platform as long as, well, an 18-wheeler.  There was this elevated control house sort of thing next to the platform.  It wasn’t clear to me what was supposed to happen next, as I couldn’t see anybody running the operation, and there was no digital or analog readout telling me the weight.  I stopped the bike and dismounted, and I walked toward the elevated control house when an  electronic voice from the Heavens boomed.  It was way louder then the idling diesel engines surrounding me and I could tell:  It was pissed.  At me.

“Can I help you?”  It didn’t come across as a request that implied an intent to be helpful.  It implied anger.  Seething anger.  Directed at me.  As a two-wheeler, I was but one-ninth the vehicle I was supposed to be.

Well, yeah, I want to weigh my bike.  I mean, why else would a normal person be here?

“You’re setting off my alarms.”

Sorry about that, dude.   What alarms?

“You’re too light and my alarms are going off!”

I want to weigh my bike (sometimes repetition helps, I thought).

“You need to get out!”  There it was.  No more implying or inferring.  It was out in the open now.  It was as if I was wearing a MAGA hat on the Harvard campus.  I was not welcome.

Okay, I can take a hint.  Hell, a weight is just a number anyway.

Which brings me to my next point.   What’s in a number?

Whatever the answer is to that question, I can tell you these three things: One, the RX4’s official number from Zongshen is 450 lbs.  As I said before, I don’t know if that is the right number, but I suspect it is not.  Two, the RX4 is substantially heavier than my RX3, and weigh heavier (or should that be way heavier?) than my TT250.  It feels it, and it feels to me like the weight rides higher.  Three, the RX4 is a substantially better road bike than the RX3, and the bike’s added heft and longer wheelbase (along with that marvelous 450cc motor) probably plays a role here.  Anyway, the bottom line here is this:   There’s no Joe Berk official weight yet (read that to mean a weight actually measured on a scale).

Like I said, I can feel the difference in heft between the RX3 and the RX4.  It’s enough to make me wonder:  Am I man enough to take this puppy off road?   I suppose I could be.  I know there are a few guys who actually take GS 1200 BMWs off road, and those things have seat heights and weights that require altimeters and maybe truck scales to measure.   But would I want to go off road?

The short answer, I think, is this:  If your main objective is off-road riding, there are other choices.   I’d go for my TT250 or something else.  If you are primarily a road rider, though, with the occasional off-road excursion, then the RX4 is a good choice.   In my opinion, the RX3 would be better off road, but that’s just what I said it was:  My opinion.  Your mileage may vary, as they say.  I was thinking about the stretch to the Sierra San Francisco cave paintings in Baja, and to me, I’m right at the limits of what I feel comfortable with on that gnarly stretch on my RX3.   It’s heavily rutted, there are big boulders, and it’s a challenge.  But then, I freely admit I’m not a dirt biker.  I know there are guys reading this who are thinking they would have no problem taking the RX4 off road.  If you’re one of them, you’re probably right.

If you are primarily a road rider, though, the RX4 is the better choice.  I put about 100 miles on the RX4 on freeways and surface streets here in So Cal, and I can tell you this:  The RX4 is clearly a more capable road machine than is the RX3, especially at freeway speeds.   I didn’t get a long enough stretch to measure the RX4’s top speed, but I can tell you there were spurts where I cranked it up to an indicated 99 mph and there was still more left.  That’s indicated (not actual) top speed, and the speedo is 10-12% optimistic.  Zongshen claims a top speed of 97.5 mph for the RX4, and that’s probably accurate.  The RX4 is a bike that can cruise comfortably at 80+ mph all day long; the RX3 has essentially run out of steam at that speed. The RX4 makes running with the big dogs seem easy.  It is rock steady at high speeds, and it’s comfortable.  It feels secure.

That magnificent 450cc motor…

In many ways, the RX4 reminded me more of my Triumph Tiger than it reminded me of my RX3.   The Triumph was essentially a touring machine/sports bike styled like an off-roader with saddlebags. The Triumph was heavy and I only took it off road once on purpose (and that was enough).  I rode the Triumph off road a few more times when I had to in Mexico, but it really was not an off-road bike.  I know there are guys who ride the big Tigers off road, but it’s not where the bike wants to be.   It wants to be headed to the next state, or maybe the next international border.  That’s what the RX4 wants, too.

My Triumph Tiger. In many ways, the RX4 is quite similar to the Tiger. It was a stellar long-distance touring machine; I think the RX4 is, too.

I’ll make a prediction:  Within the next two years, someone (perhaps several someones) will do the Iron Butt on the RX4.  I don’t mean a single 1000-mile Baby Butt day (good buddy Rob Morel has already done that on his RX3).  I’m talking the full-tilt boogie here:  The 11,000-mile, 11-day Iron Butt.  I think that’s going to happen.  And I think the RX4 is the bike that will do it.

I was talking to Steve Seidner about this a day or two ago, and he asked me to mention to you that CSC is taking deposits now on the RX4 (here’s a link to get to their page for placing your deposit).  CSC will sell a lot of RX4s.  The bike is that good.

Mike Huber: The real deal…

On my last trip through Baja while riding with a dozen guys on RX3s, we stopped for fuel in Catavina while headed south. That’s on the long stretch between El Rosario and Guerrero Negro, where the distance between Pemex stations is over 200 miles. Catavina is a tiny town in a beautiful boulder field (in fact, it’s the area depicted in the lead photo on the ExhaustNotes Baja page). The locals sell fuel out of gas cans in Catavina, and on a motorcycle, you have to stop here to top off.  The boulder fields through this region are dramatic, almost other-worldly.  You can get a bit of a feel for the area from this photo…

Baja’s Catavina boulder fields.  This is some of the most dramatic scenery on the planet!

Anyway, we had stopped for fuel in Catavina when I noticed a guy on an adventure bike amongst our guys.  What grabbed my attention is that I didn’t recognize him.  It felt weird, because this was our second day on the road, and I thought I was losing it. Usually by the middle of the first day on these group rides I know everybody who’s riding with us.  Incidentally, if you want to know what it’s like organizing one of those tours, there’s a story on that topic appearing in ADVMoto this week (you can read it here).

Mike’s BMW topcase. All the way!

Anyway, I looked at this new guy and then I realized his bike wasn’t an RX3; it was a BMW GS1200. I was just about to razz him a bit about that, and then I saw the jump wings on his bike’s top case.   You don’t get US Army jump wings out of a Cracker Jack box, so I knew right away this guy was not going to be your typical adventure rider.   No one who rides a motorcycle in Baja is a “typical” anything, but I knew this gentleman was going to be something special.

I asked the guy if he was a paratrooper, the answer was yes, and over the next roughly thousand Baja miles I got to knew Mike Huber well. He rode with us for several days and all of us thoroughly enjoyed his company. As it turns out, Mike is not your everyday former US Army paratrooper (as if there ever could be such a thing); he’s a serious rider with a very cool lifestyle (more on that in a second).

Mike and I became good friends, and when he was in town a couple of weeks ago, Sue and I met him for lunch at La Casita Mexicana in Bell (just south of LA).  If you’ve never dined there, trust me on this, you need to make the trip.  It’s an award-winning restaurant with a unique cuisine that I learned about from Steve and Maureen at CSC, and to be blunt, it’s the finest Mexican food I’ve ever had.  But I digress…back to Mike…

Lunch with Mike at La Casita Mexicana.  Those enchiladas sure look good!

Mike is anything but a stereotypical guy.   Nope, he’s the real deal.  Mike’s has been living on his motorcycle and traveling North America (and a bit of Central America) for the last year, and he just published a story about his lifestyle in Intravel Magazine.  It’s a great read, and you can see it here.

Well done, Mike!  Ride safe and keep us posted on your travels!