Jacob Lake – The ExhaustNotes Blog

By Bobbie Surber

I was packed and ready to hit the road, heading out for a camping trip at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, a place that’s held a special spot in my heart for years. The plan was simple: drive out, escape the heat of Sedona in July, camp under the stars, and soak in the quiet beauty of the pines and canyon. No cell signal, no crowds. Just me, my gear, and that stillness unique to the North Rim.

But not long into the day, I received the kind of message no traveler wants to hear: Jacob Lake and the North Rim had been evacuated due to wildfire. My heart sank.

With my plans upended and smoke looming in the distance, I rerouted to Kanab and checked into a hotel. By sheer coincidence, I arrived just as a crew of wildland firefighters was pulling in, finally catching a break after 48 straight hours on the line. Despite the exhaustion etched into their faces, they took a moment to speak with kindness. They discreetly confirmed what I was afraid to hear: structures had been lost. The Grand Canyon Lodge was among them.

A Lodge Full of Character

The lodge wasn’t just a place to stay, it was the soul of the North Rim. Perched at the edge of the canyon, it offers the kind of peace that settles deep in your bones. I’d ended more than a few riding and hiking days there, swapping dusty boots for a warm meal and finding calm under the towering pines.

I remember reaching the lodge after completing the rim-to-rim hike, a long, steady climb from the Colorado River to the quiet heights of the North Rim. My legs were leaden, my pack dusted with red earth, and each step through the final miles of the North Kaibab Trail carried the weight of the canyon behind me. The landscape narrowed into cool shadows and silent stands of fir and aspen. As I crested the rim and glimpsed the lodge through a break in the trees, a quiet stillness settled in. I walked into the stone-and-timber building, ordered a hot meal, and sat near the window overlooking the vast expanse I’d just crossed. It wasn’t dramatic or loud, just a deeply satisfying end to a long journey.

At this moment, I’m in Zion, watching the sun sink behind the massive sandstone cliffs, reminiscing about my last visit in 2023 with Tippi, my Triumph Tiger 900 and faithful road companion. We had wound our way through a light snow flurry that gave way to golden light along the rim. I took a few photos of her parked by the North Rim Monument sign, along with shots of the lodge view and our snow-dusted ride, images that, in hindsight, captured more than a moment; they captured something I’ll never see again.

A Bit of History

According to the National Park Service, the Grand Canyon Lodge was originally completed in 1928 and designed by Gilbert Stanley Underwood, the architect known for other iconic National Park lodges like Bryce and Zion. Built from native limestone and timber, the lodge was intended to blend seamlessly into the landscape, emphasizing the canyon, not the building.

Just four years after its opening, the original lodge was destroyed by fire in 1932. It was rebuilt by 1937 with a simpler but still rugged design, one that would last nearly 90 years. Unlike the South Rim’s sprawling facilities, this lodge had a quiet dignity, drawing fewer crowds but just as much reverence.

Why the North Rim Matters

The North Rim receives only about 10% of the park’s annual visitors. It’s higher in elevation, cooler in climate, and feels a world away from the more developed South Rim. Fewer people mean more silence, more stars, and more time to breathe. It’s the kind of place that speaks in stillness.
That’s what made the lodge so special. The rocking chairs on the stone veranda. The canyon view framed perfectly through the dining room’s massive windows. The cabins tucked into the trees. It all felt timeless.
But as this fire has reminded us, even the most timeless places can change in an instant.

Holding Space for Gratitude

In times like these, it’s important to honor those who protect our wild places. To the wildland firefighters, thank you. For pushing through fatigue, for protecting what you can, and for showing up when it matters most.
And to the North Rim, thank you. For every ride, every trail, every quiet moment. For being a refuge from the world and a place to simply be. Though the lodge is gone, the land remains. The canyon remains. The memories remain.

You’ll always be one of my happy places.

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Berk recently did a story on the Grand Canyon and I have visited the park many times. I’ve never made it to the North Rim however, and a trip to Las Vegas, Nevada was a wonderful opportunity to check out the other side of that great big hole in the ground as it was practically on the way. If you plan on going know that the North Rim closes around the end of November. When we arrived a few days before Thanksgiving the ranger station, restaurant, gift shop and lodge were all closed. The park was still open but the place was deserted. Only us and a few other cars were at the park that day.

National Park fees are getting kind of pricey. 35 dollars was the day pass fee except there was no one to collect the money. There was an electronic-pay box near the Ranger Station. Several of the other visitors were poking and prodding at the box but no one was having any success actually paying. Payees would stab their card in and look to the waiting customers as if to say, “What do I do now?” Someone else would try to help the lost soul but we were getting nowhere. I never got a chance at the box because we decided it must be out of service and besides we were just taking a drive through.

The North Rim is quite a bit different than the South Rim. For one, it’s about 1000 feet higher in elevation. The slope is different also: rain water on the North Rim flows into the canyon while rain water flows away from the canyon on the South Rim. What this means is that the South Rim is relatively straight along the edge with many places to pull over and gaze at the canyon, The North Rim has fjord-like canyons that intersect the Colorado River gorge at right angles so getting to view points means longer drives and some backtracking to get to the next one. There are fewer car-accessible spots on the North Rim and in fact most of it is hiking material. I don’t hike.

There are supposed to be bison running around but except for chipmunks we saw very little wildlife mostly due to the onset of winter. The critters were probably settling in snug somewhere we couldn’t see. The view points may be fewer but the views are still spectacular at the North Rim. My cell phone camera was dwarfed by the immensity of the scene and the photos you see in this story reflect that tiny little sensor.

The North Rim is kind of far from anywhere; the closest lodging we could find was at the Jacob Lake Lodge. The Jacob Lake Lodge is an all-in-one resort with rooms, a gift shop, a nice place to eat and a gas station. The staff was made up of bright young college students who work several-month shifts then go back to school. There are staff accommodations on site. CT and I were amazed at how smart, kind and genuinely good people these kids were. The entire place was run by 20 year-olds, not an adult in sight.

Jacob Lake Lodge is open year around and is worth a visit even if the North Rim is closed. There is a big fireplace and comfy seats to sit in as you pen manifestos or just check your email. The logs are 3 feet long and the fire is tended to by the 20-somethings. The drive up on 89A takes you from mostly desert to pine forests in a few miles. I’ll be going back again because I missed Jacob Lake’s famous pie due to eating so much food. You should go, too.