Admiral Gordon Smith

From time to time Gresh and I have written about a few of the great people we worked with over the years.  For me, Gordon Smith is at the top of the list.  Gordon was the real deal:  Movie star good looks, charisma, Ivy League credentials, war hero, successful senior executive, successful entrepreneur, and a man who deeply understood what leadership is all about.   I worked for Gordon in the early ’90s, lost track of him for a couple of decades, had dinner with him about 3 years ago, and learned of his passing about a year and a half ago.  Gordon had 92 years on this planet so I guess he got his money’s worth, but knowing he is gone makes the world seem a lot emptier.  He was a little frail when we last met, but he still had his razor sharp mind, his Boston accent, his full head of hair, and his amazing wit and gracious charm.

Gordon Smith as a young naval aviator.

Gordon Smith was a naval aviator (a carrier pilot and commander) who flew 244 combat missions in Korea and Vietnam.  He’d been shot down, he’d been run over by an aircraft carrier after a failed catapult launch (keel hauled, he called it), he’d been decorated for valor numerous times, he was one of the top people in Naval Intelligence, and the list goes on.  I can’t do his Navy career justice here, but I strongly suggest you take 5 minutes and read the tribute one of his fellow admirals wrote.  I’ll give you a couple of links at the end this blog.  Trust me on this:  Gordon Smith was one hell of a man and a true leader.

Commander Gordon Smith in action aboard the USS Oriskany.

How I met Gordon is an interesting story.  I had been laid off at Aerojet Ordnance and I took a lower level job at Sargent-Fletcher, another So Cal aerospace company.   Sargent-Fletcher was a nice company but I wasn’t happy with the culture there and after six months, another offer floated in for a VP-level job in Orlando (it came about as a result of my earlier job search).  So off I went to make my mark in Florida building military lasers, where I loved the work but hated the area.  Central Florida, to me, was heat, humidity, and cockroaches so big they fought you for the covers at night (the Floridians call them palmetto bugs, but you can’t fool me; those things were cockroaches).   I knew I had to get back to southern California.  I don’t mean to insult anyone with my comments about Florida, but it is what it is.  You’re young; you’ll get over it.  Mea culpa.

The call came in from Sargent-Fletcher early one Friday morning after I’d been in Orlando for six months.  They hired a new president (that would be Gordon Smith), he heard about my brief pre-Orlando stint at Fletcher, and he wanted to meet me.  On Saturday, the next day.  It was a redeye flight, I forgot to bring my dress shoes, and the next morning I was in Gordon’s office in a suit and tie and my running sneakers.   We had a good interview and he asked me what I wanted.  I gave my Miss America answer:  A meaningful position, a chance to make a contribution on a winning team, you know, the standard Miss America “I like long walks on the beach and I want to work for world peace” bullshit interview response.

Gordon smiled.  “I mean money,” he said, rubbing the fingers of his hand like he was counting cash.  “How much do you need?”

Gordon Smith around the time I worked for him. His leadership skills were incredible.

Hmmm.  I guess I should have thought about that earlier, but truth be told, I had not.   I gave an obscenely high answer, which I regretted even before I finished saying  it.  I was desperate to get back to southern California, and I just blew it, I thought, by being greedy.

Gordon smiled.  “The number I had in mind was…” and then he offered $2K more than what I had said.   I kind of locked up mentally.   Let’s see, I thought, he asked how much I wanted.  I said X.   He came back with X plus $2K.  I had studied negotiation tactics.  It wasn’t supposed to work that way.  I didn’t know what to say.  Gordon smiled.  He knew.

You should never accept a job offer immediately, but what could I say?

“I’m your boy.”

“What are you doing for dinner?” Gordon asked.  My mind was still thinking about what had just happened.  I had a flight back to Orlando the next day.  I told Gordon we hadn’t made any plans, and he said, “Good, come to my restaurant for dinner.”

“Sure,” I said.  “You already have a favorite restaurant here in So Cal?”  I knew he had just become the president at Sargent-Fletcher.

“I own a restaurant here,” Gordon answered.

“You own a restaurant?”  Sometimes, I can be incredibly smooth.

Gordon’s restaurant was the Nieuport 17, and it wasn’t just a restaurant.  It was one of the swankiest dining experiences in the world.  It had (as the name implied) an aviation motif.  When Sue and I pulled up and gave our keys to the valet, a tall, elegant man in an exquitely-tailored suit approached.  “You must be Joe, and you must be Sue.  I’ve heard so much about you.”  It was Wilbur, Gordon’s Nieuport 17 partner and co-owner.  Wilbur escorted us in to the lobby, which was decorated with photos of famous aviators and astronauts.  Gordon’s picture hung on that wall.  Wilbur saw me eyeing the photos.  My gaze fixed on one autographed by Neil Armstrong.  Yes, that Neil Armstrong, the first man on the moon.  “Neil is usually here,” Wilbur said.  “If he’s in tonight, I’ll introduce you.”

Gordon joined us and asked if we’d like a tour of the restaurant.  It was awesome.  All the wait staff were dressed in some sort of pseudo-Navy nautical uniform.  The chefs and their helpers damn near snapped to attention when we entered the kitchen.   It was “Good evening, Admiral,” and “How are you this evening, Admiral?” all around.  All hands were on deck.

When we (we being me, Sue, and Gordon) sat down for dinner, Wilbur came over and asked if he could join us.  “I haven’t had dinner yet,” he explained.  Sure, no problem.  Wilbur asked what we liked best from our prior visits, and I explained it was our first time in the Nieuport 17.   Wilbur showed some surprise, and then he held his arm up and snapped his fingers.  Suddenly, there were at least eight waiters and waitresses at our table.  “Bring Sue and Joe a sampler of everything on the menu,” Wilbur ordered, and the wait staff went to battle stations following those orders.   We weren’t hungry after sampling literally every main course, but hey, I couldn’t be impolite.  We both went with the chicken with Morel mushrooms.  It was heavenly.

I spent four years at Sargent-Fletcher, and on every one of those days I couldn’t wait to get to work in the morning and I always stayed late in the evening.  I hired on as the QA director, and then one morning Gordon called me to his office to tell me he had just fired the engineering director.  “Wow, that’s a bold move,”  I said.  “Who’s going to run Engineering?”  Gordon looked at me and smiled.  I knew.  I had a new job.  “Okay,” I said, “but who’s going to take over Quality?”  Gordon continued to look at me and smile without speaking.  Okay, so I’d be wearing two hats for a while.  A year or so later, I had another call to come to Gordon’s office, and he told me he had just fired the Operations director.  “Wow,”  I said.  “Who’s going to run the plant?”  Another Gordon smile, and now I was wearing three hats.  I loved that job, we had the plant back on schedule in short order, and Gordon kept showering me with raises.  His idea was to pay people more than they thought they were worth.  It worked.  But that wasn’t the best part. Gordon would tell me what he felt the company needed; he never told me how to go about making it happen.  He knew how to lead. Find the right people, pay them more than they think they want, then get out of their way.   It was awesome.

Here’s the link about Gordon’s career I mentioned earlier.   If you would like to read about Gordon’s decorations for valor (including the Silver Star), those are here.  Rest in peace, Admiral Smith.  You earned it.


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The Boogie Woogie Bugle Boys of CSC

“Time’s fun when you’re having flies,” as the frogs like to say.

Susie and I were headed north in the Subie and we stopped at the In-N-Out in Gilroy.  I had an Animal Style burger.  We had just had a nice telephone conversation with Steve Seidner, CEO of CSC Motorcycles.  The two events had me thinking about the California Scooter Steve donated to the In-N-Out foundation.  I realized that had been 11 years ago.  Time speeds up as we age, I think.  It feels like it was yesterday.

Steve donated a custom built bike to the In-N-Out charity auction every year during the California Scooter days, each one painted with a custom theme, with all proceeds going to the In-N-Out Foundation.  That year, the good folks at In-N-Out asked us to base the color theme on Melanie Troxel’s In-N-Out funny car.

Melanie Troxel’s In-N-Out Funny Car.

The 2011 In-N-Out California Scooter was simply magnificent. Chrome Lucky 13 wheels, custom paint, a painted frame, a custom seat…ah, the list went on and on.  I watched Lupe and Tony put the In-N-Out bike together and it was a hoot.

That year’s In-N-Out dinner and auction was awesome.   I met one of the principals in the In-N-Out founding family who took me in tow and explained what the auction was all about, the prizes, and bit of the family’s background.  She is a most charming woman…bright, attractive, and articulate.  The CSC bike was the major item to be auctioned that year, she explained, and it brought a good chunk of money into the In-N-Out charitable foundation.  I met and chatted with Melanie Troxel, the In-N-Out funny car driver, who is bright, articulate, and attractive (are you sensing a theme?).  I asked her what it was like to pilot a funny car, and with a wink, she told me it was over before you realized it.

That was quite a night.  Those were good times.  And those were interesting little motorcycles.  We rode them all the way to Cabo San Lucas and back.  Yep, we rode to Cabo and back on 150cc motorbikes (you can read that story here).  And it all happened more than a decade ago.  It seems like it was yesterday.  Or did I mention that already?


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Movie Review: The Many Saints of Newark

The Many Saints of Newark is a movie that spoke to me on many levels.  I’m from New Jersey, I’ve watched every episode of The Sopranos probably four times or more, I’m a James Gandolfini fan, I grew up in New Jersey when the Newark race riots occurred (which figured prominently in The Many Saints of Newark), and there are scenes in and around Bahr’s Landing, arguably the best seafood restaurant in the world.  Ah, where to begin.

Michael and James Gandolfini, both playing Tony Soprano. James Gandolfini went to Rutgers, as did I and many of my friends in New Jersey.

For starters, the movie is the story of Tony Soprano as a kid and then a teenager.  The Many Saints of Newark is a prequel.  The young Tony Soprano is played by none other than Michael Gandolfini, James Gandolfini’s real son.  Michael Gandolfini’s looks and his mannerisms make him completely believable as a younger version of the mob boss.  I can’t imagine the pressure on this young man as an actor to play the role well.  My compliments and thanks to you, Mr. Gandolfini.  You succeeded and your father would be proud.

Tony’s mother, Livia Soprano.
Corrado Soprano, aka Uncle Jun, then and now.
Silvio Dante. In the Sopranos, Steven Van Zandt played Silvio.
Big Pussy, who turned turned FBI informant and was later whacked by Tony Soprano.
Pauly Walnuts. In real life, the guy who played Pauly had been a real mobster.
Bahr’s Seafood Landing in Atlantic Highlands, New Jersey. I had dinner there just last month. In my opinion, it’s the best seafood restaurant on the planet.

Most of the characters in The Sopranos are shown in their earlier years in The Many Saints of Newark, including Silvio Dante, Pauly Walnuts, Tony’s mother, Tony’s sister Janice, Big Pussy, and others.   Whoever did the casting on this movie did a very good job; the actors in each role were completely believable as younger versions of themselves.  They were superb.  The actors must have spent considerable time studying The Sopranos.  Their accents, their mannerisms, their speech patterns, their expressions, even the way they walked brought back memories of The Sopranos series.  It was an incredible set of performances.

In addition to the actors shown above, the late Ray Liotta actually played two roles, but I don’t want to spoil the movie for you.  He was good in both.

You can watch The Many Saints of Newark on Netflix for $7.99 or you can get it on Amazon, and trust me, it will be money well spent.  I give The Many Saints of Newark two thumbs up only because I don’t have more thumbs.  When the movie ended, it closed with the theme music from The Sopranos (emphasizing its place as a prequel), and that was a nice touch.


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A Janus Halcyon 450 Teaser

Boy oh boy, I get to do some cool things.  Today’s blog is a quick teaser for an upcoming story on the new Janus Halcyon 450.  I won’t spoil the fun other than to say my last stop during a recent trip to Indiana was Janus Motorcycles, where I had an awesome plant tour and a ride on the new Halcyon 450 motorcycle.  It was great.  The motorcycle was impressive; the company even more so.  I’m a big time Janus fan, having ridden their 250 Gryffin model through southern California and northern Baja with a couple of Janus big wheels (you can read that story here).   I was pretty sure the 450 would be a wonderful motorcycle, and I was right.

Stay tuned, folks.  There’s a lot more to this story.


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CHiPs!

In the 1960s and 70s, you couldn’t turn on a TV and flip through the channels without encountering a cop show.   Hawaii Five O, Kojak, and more.  TV series had shifted from westerns to police drama, and TV was what many of us did in the evening.  Basically, we watched what the entertainment industry brainwashed us into watching.   It’s no small wonder a lot of guys my age wanted to be cops when they grew up.  Rick Rosner (a TV producer and one of the certifiably-smartest guys on the planet…Google him and you’ll see) was also an LA County Reserve Sheriff’s deputy.  One night while on duty during a coffee break (a donut may have been involved), he saw two CHP motor officers roll by.  That’s how and where the idea for CHiPs was born:  Motorcycles.  Southern California.  Police.  All the right pieces fell into place.

I had just returned from a year overseas (where I enjoyed nonstop good times during a 13-month party, courtesy of Uncle Sam) when CHiPs first aired in 1977.  It was hokey…the music, the scenes, the premise of nearly every episode, but it was motorcycles, and I never missed an episode.  The series ran for five or six years, and it featured two main characters:  Ponch Poncharello (played by Eric Estrada) and Jon (played by Larry Wilcox).  Their sergeant, Joe Getraer (played by Robert Pine) was also a regular on the show.

Guys like Gresh and me know that running a Z-1 Kawasaki through soft sand, up and down stairs, and other motoshenanigans doesn’t make a lot of sense (EDIT:  Maybe I’m wrong about this…see the video at the end of this blog).  But we’re mere mortals.  Ponch and Jon made the big Kawis behave in every episode.  It was all part of the story, and it was all set in and around Los Angeles.  That’s one of the reasons, I think, many of my early experiences in So Cal were like deja vu all over again when I moved here.  I’d seen all these places in CHiPs before I left Texas and came to California: Angeles Crest Highway, Malibu, downtown LA, the Pacific Coast Highway…the locations and the motorcycle scenes were burned into my brain.

Susie was putzing around on Facebook the other day when she found a local community bulletin board that said the CHiPs stars would be here for autographs and photos.  Did I want to go?  Hell, yeah!

Larry Wilcox, aka Jon Baker, signing a photo for me. He seemed like a genuine nice guy. In real life, Wilcox was a Marine in Vietnam who served in an artillery unit.  Wilcox is a year or two older than me.

The CHiPs show had a motor sergeant (Sergeant Joe Getraer) who was played by Robert Pine.  Pine was there as well, and he was happy to pose for a photograph.  Mr. Pine is 80 years old now.

Sergeant Joe Getraer, played by Robert Pine, who had a full time job keeping Ponch and Jon in line. Pine, like Estrada and Wilcox, had a welcoming personality. It was a fun day.

Erik Estrada was a central character in the show, the one who was always in some kind of trouble with Sergeant Getraer.  Ponch (his nickname, as in Ponch Poncharello) and Jon no doubt influenced a lot of guys to apply for jobs in the real California Highway Patrol.  The real California Highway Patrol had a real motor officer and a real CHP BMW at this event, along with a couple of patrol cars.

Susie and Erik Estrada.  All three of the CHiPs stars allowed everyone to take as many photos as they wanted.  There’s nothing pretentious about these guys.

There were a lot of things I enjoyed about this event.  We had to wait in line to get up to the table for autographs, but the wait wasn’t too bad and the event wasn’t rushed at all.  The weather was nice and it was a fun way to spend a Saturday morning.  Pine, Wilcox, and Estrada chatted with everybody, and Mr. Estrada walked the length of the line several times apologizing for the wait and telling us they were going as fast as they could.  There were a few people in line who were disabled, and Ponch helped them maneuver up to the picture-posing area (he was very friendly).  All three of the TV CHiPs seemed to have the same personalities as the characters they played 50 years ago, with Estrada being the most mischievous (and, where the ladies were involved, the most flirtatious).

I asked Estrada if he still rode and what kind of motorcycle he had.  It was a topic he wanted to talk about.  “Ponch” told me he sold his Harley Softail 20 years ago, and that he now owned one of the six Kawasaki police motors used on the show.  “The Teamsters gave it to me,” he said.  I thought that was pretty cool.

The other stars in the show were southern California, the California Highway Patrol, and the Kawasaki Police 1000 motorcycle.  I imagine CHiPs did a lot for CHP recruitment, and the Kawasaki police motorcycles did a lot for Kawasaki (in both the police and civilian markets).  It was a brilliant bit of product placement before product placement became a thing, and it led to a nearly complete bifurcation of the police motorcycle market.  Departments east of the Mississippi River stuck with Harley-Davidson, and departments west of the Mississippi went with Kawasaki (although that has changed in recent years).  If you are wondering how I know that, I did a fair amount of research for The Complete Book of Police and Military Motorcycles when I wrote it 20 years ago.

The Complete Book of Police and Military Motorcycles is back in print and you can purchase a copy for a low, low $9.95.


Whoa…check this out…it just happened yesterday right here in LA.  Who’d a thought?  The CHP on full dress Harleys chasing down a guy on a Kawasaki KLR 650, and staying with him on the freeways, splitting lanes, on surface streets, and off road.  These are CHiPs legends being created as this blog was being written!

Whatever the two CHP officers’ names are, you can bet they’re being called Ponch and Jon now!


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ExNotes Review: Site Advertising

In the good old days of paper magazines a writer could break even or make a little money from a story. That money was paid upon publication. Those days are mostly gone. There are only a few motorcycle magazines left. For a reader, that’s a good thing: Only the best writers are still being published in a condensed, paper format. There is no need to buy a dozen magazines as all your favorite authors are paddling in one of three lifeboats: Rider, Roadrunner or Motorcycle Classics. For the rest of us the modern Internet format requires a scramble for revenue. It’s a battle of pennies, clicks and views.

The ExhaustNotes.us website is truly a labor of love. It began when Joe Berk and I found ourselves at loose ends. Berk retired from his job of promoting CSC Motorcycles and I was dumped (along with everyone else) from Motorcyclist magazine when they re-styled the magazine in a futile attempt to save the sinking publication. Berk still has his gig at Motorcycle Classics but the man writes zillions of words a day. He needed another outlet for his creative juices. I had given up writing and was standing around watching concrete cure. I tried to get on at Motorcycle.com and had a few stories published there, but budgets are tight in the Internet motorcycle content business. From this journalistic crossroads the ExhaustNotes.us website was born.

If you factor in our time, ExhaustNotes.us doesn’t really pay. Berk handles all the mechanics of the site and we have a web guy that does some magic behind the scenes stuff. Then there’s a cost to host the website. On the plus side, the site earns money from the advertisers and gets a fraction of a penny when you purchase an item from Amazon links in our stories. We don’t do a lot of Amazon linking as it’s such a small amount of revenue it’s hardly worth the bother.

The big bucks come from the Google ads you see sprinkled around ExhaustNotes.us stories. We have no control over these ads. Google places them according to some algorithm that uses words in the story to determine what type of ad is shown. For example, one of Berk’s gun stories will cause gun ads to appear. Jeep stories will attract Jeep ads. If I do a story on the Yamaha RD350, Asian foot-fetish ads or penis-enlargement ads will pop up. Come to think of it, maybe that’s only on my screen view. We even had to delete an ExhaustNotes.us give-away story because Google flooded the story with fake contest-entry forms. We didn’t want readers to be scammed.

This is where you, the reader, comes in. ExhaustNotes.us gets paid from Google each time you click on one of their ads. You don’t have to buy anything like Amazon links. Usually the revenue from Google ads varies from $1 to $10 on a good day. That’s not a lot but over a month it could add up, you know? Anyway, Berk has a pretty good idea of how much money comes in and ExhaustNotes.us would like you all to participate in a money-grabbing experiment.

Here’s the deal: After you read an ExhaustNotes.us story, click on the ads that are inserted in the story or above the story. It doesn’t have to be a current story; one from the archives works just as well. Each time you click on a Google ad we get a fraction of a penny or 35 Dodge coins, whichever is more. Share the ExhaustNotes.us story to your social media. You never know when something will go viral and ExhaustNotes.us will earn $25 in a single day. The more people that view a story mean more clicks and more ad revenue.

As I edit this story it sounds like I am complaining about the writing business. That’s not the impression I want to leave you with. I’m fine with not making money from writing but being fine with it is not the same as accepting it. I’m looking for a steady revenue stream, man. Berk says we have written over 1000 stories on ExhaustNotes.us and that’s a lot of writing. Even if Berk did 80% of it that’s still 200 more stories than I would have written if ExhaustNotes.us didn’t exist. When Berk first started ExhaustNotes.us I asked him why we should go through all the hassle. Berk told me:  Writers gotta write.  And so we do.

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The Indiana Medical History Museum

This is an unusual blog about an unusual museum.  On a recent visit to Indianapolis we visited the Indiana Medical History Museum.

So here’s the deal:  The Indiana Medical History Museum is what’s left of what was an Indiana insane asylum.  A note on the museum’s website states:

Young children and visitors sensitive to topics such as mental illness, death, and autopsy may find the museum disturbing. Human skeletons and preserved organs are on display at the museum.

All that is true.  I wouldn’t take kids here.  The Indiana insane asylum used to house 2,000 poor souls who had lost their minds.  The building we visited was the pathology center, all that’s left of the facility (the rest has been razed and replaced with condominiums).  You can’t just walk up and start visiting this museum; you have to book a tour and the tours only take a few people at a time.

In the lecture hall.

The primary focus of this Indiana pathology department was research focused on unearthing the causes of insanity.   Our tour guide explained that back when the facility was an active insane asylum, a third of the patients were insane as a result of tertiary syphilis.  When it was discovered that this form of insanity was due to a microbe (the syphilis spirochete), further research focused on finding microbes that caused other forms of insanity (they didn’t find any).  The museum’s website states that it shows the beginnings of modern psychiatry.

Another view inside the lecture hall.

The autopsy room and its equipment were interesting.  I tried to imagine what it must have been like to have been a doctor in the early 1900s working here.  Things sure have changed.

The autopsy room.
Autopsy tools.
An iron lung for infants.

The library was interesting.  In its day, it was perhaps one of the most advanced on the planet.  It’s what they had to work with.

Inside the library.

The building and our tour guide’s description of the place were somber and respectful.  Still, the tour had the feel of a Steven King novel.  Scattered equpment from the early days of treating mental illness filled the hallways.  Some of it was used for electroshock therapy.  Other tools were for lobotomies.   It’s what they had to work with back then.

Steeple tops from the insane asylum buildings.
Camera equipment for photographing microscope slide results.

Admission was a modest $10 ($9 if you are a senior citizen), and the tour takes about an hour or so.  I thought it was interesting.  It sure was different.


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National Museum of the US Air Force

Ohio this time, folks, and today’s feature is the National Museum of the United States Air Force.  We had been exploring Indiana, and Dayton was a just a short hop across the border.   This was part of our great visit with good buddy Jeff, and wow, did we ever have a good time.

The official name, as denoted in the title of the blog, is a mouthful.  I’ve heard of this place as the Wright-Patterson air force museum, and it’s been around for a long time.  Dayton is a hop, skip, and a jump away from Vandalia, and my Dad visited the air museum decades ago when he competed in the Grand American Trapshoot in that city when I was a kid.  I always meant to get here, and thanks to Jeff and my navigator’s travel planning (my navigator, of course, is Susie), I finally made it.

Dayton was also home to the world famous Wright brothers.  I recently read a great book about The Wright Brothers by David McCullough, which added greatly to my understanding of their accomplishments.

There were many other early aircraft on display.  I probably should have noted what they all were.  But I was having too much fun taking available light photos with my Nikon.  There’s no flash in any of the pictures in this blog.

There are four main halls in the museum, each dedicated to a specific aviation era.  The first is focused on the early days (that’s what you see in the photos above), and the last is focused on more modern military aircraft.  There are also exhibits of presidential aircraft, missiles, nuclear weapons, and more.

The missile hall was particularly cool.  The photo immediately below shows a nuclear weapon.

The missiles made great photo subjects.  I had two lenses with me: The Nikon 24-120 and the Nikon 16-35.  Most of these shots are with the wide angle 16-35.  Both of these lenses do a great job, the 16-35 even more so in these low light, tight locations.

Here’s another photo of a nuclear (in this case, thermonuclear) bomb.  It’s hard to believe that much energy can be packed into such a small envelope.

The Wright-Patterson Museum also had several experimental aircraft.  These make for cool photos.

That’s Chuck Yeager’s airplane below…it’s the one he used for breaking the sound barrier (or it’s one just like it).

There was an Apollo display, including the actual Apollo 15 capsule.

Our tour guide told us something I didn’t know before.  If the lunar landing module was damaged and couldn’t be repaired such that it could dock with the lunar orbiter, the plan was to leave the guys who landed on the moon there.

One of the displays showed an Apollo astronaut suited up for a moon walk.  What caught my attention was the Omega Speedmaster in the display.  There’s a very interesting story about that watch the Bulova chronograph worn when one of astronauts was replaced just prior to launch.  You can read that story here.  I wear one of the modern Bulova lunar pilot watches.

Here’s one of my favorite airplanes of all time:  The Lockheed C-130 Hercules.   It’s an airplane that first flew in 1954.  Analysts believe it will still be flying in 2054.  Imagine that:  A military aircraft with a century of service.

A long time ago, I went through the Airborne School at Fort Benning, Georgia, and I made a few jumps from a C-130.  My last jump was from the C-141 Starlifter jet, an aircraft that was retired from military service several decades ago (even though it was introduced way after the C-130).  The C-141 jump was a lot more terrifying to me than was jumping from a C-130.

In a C-130 you have to jump up and out to break through the boundary layer of air that travels with the C-130.  Because you jump up and out, it was like jumping off a diving board…you never really get a falling sensation (even though you drop more than a hundred feet before the parachute opens).  On a C-141, though, you can’t do that.  If you jump up and out, you’ll get into the jet exhaust and turn yourself to toast.  The C-141 deploys a shield just forward of the door, so the drill is to face the door at a 45-degree angle and simply step out.  When that happens, you fall the same distance as you do when exiting a C-130, but you feel every millimeter.  It scared the hell out of me.

The Museum also has a section displaying prior presidential aircraft…different versions of Air Force One.  That was also fascinating.  One of the Air Force One planes is the 707 that was took President Kennedy to Dallas, and then returned with his body that afternoon.

Jackie Kennedy would not allow JFK’s coffin to be stowed in the freight compartment on the flight back to Washington.  She wanted it to fly with her in the passenger compartment.  An enterprising flight engineer obtained a hacksaw and cut away part of the bulkhead just ahead of the rear passenger door, which allowed the coffin to make the turn into the aircraft.

There were other presidential aircraft on display as well, including the one used by Franklin Roosevelt and Harry Truman.

Not everywhere a president flies can handle a large jet, so sometimes Presidents use small executive jets.  One of the first of these bizjets used for Air Force One (any airplane carrying the President is designated Air Force One) was a small Lockheed.  President Lyndon Johnson called the small Lockheed executive jet below “Air Force One Half.”

It was a good day, and a full day.  Even spending a good chunk of our day at the Museum, we were only able to see two of the four halls.  That made for a good day, but if you want to see the entire Museum, I think it would be wise to allow for a two-day visit.


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The Indianapolis Motor Speedway

Wow, this is cool:  The Indianapolis Motor Speedway!  That photo above?  I snapped it as the Indy car was entering Turn 3 at about 200 mph, panning the camera with the car to blur the background and get the car as sharp as possible (which is a bit of a challenge when your subject is doing 200).  There were a lot of photo ops at Indy, and I sized most of the photos at 900 pixels to show off a bit.  We were having a good time.

We didn’t see the race (it’s today, and it starts about three hours from when this blog was posted).  We were in Indianapolis a couple of weeks ago to visit with good buddy Jeff, whom you’ve seen in other recent blogs.  Jeff took us all over Indianapolis and the surrounding areas, and our itinerary included the legendary Indianapolis Motor Speedway.

We walked the huge infield area.  The track is a 2.5-mile oval and that gives it plenty of room on the infield (there’s even a golf course in the infield).  One of the best parts is the museum, which houses historic cars and winners of past Indy 500 races.

After spending some time in the museum, we went up into the stands to watch the cars practicing.  The Indy 500 is, as the name states, a 500-mile race, and with the cars running over 200 mph, it takes about 2 hours.  I can see it producing more than a few headaches, sitting out in the sun and listening to the high-pitched and loud whine of the cars whizzing by.   Our day was perfect…we took in what we wanted to see and I shot a lot of photos.

There is a very cool photo of Mario Andretti in the Indy 500 Museum.  The story behind it is that the photographer asked Mario Andretti if he could grab of photo of his rings, and Mr. Andretti posed as you him in the photo above.

There was also an Indy 500 simulator in the museum.  It let you “race” for about a minute, but I didn’t last that long.  The simulator included motion in the steering wheel and in the seat, I felt woozy as soon as I started, and I  had to stop shortly after I started.  I guess that makes me an official Indy 500 DNF (did not finish).

My favorite photo of the day is this selfie I grabbed of yours truly and good buddy Jeff reflected in the radiator cover of a vintage Miller race car.

So there you have it…our day at the Indianapolis Motor Speedway.  I’ll be watching the race today.


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Gettysburg National Military Park

It was an epic battle, fought over just three days, with monstrous casualties incurred by both sides due to a deadly combination of improved weaponry and Napoleonic tactics.  Muskets transitioned from smoothbores to rifled barrels (greatly enhancing accuracy); military formations (not yet adopted to the quantum leap forward in accuracy) fought in shoulder-to-shoulder advancing columns.  Both sides held their fire until the Union and Confederate armies were at can’t-miss distances.  It was brutal.  Gettysburg suffered 51,000 casualties.  Eleven general officers were killed.  It was the bloodiest battle of the Civil War, but it was turning point.  General Robert E. Lee, the previously invincible and charismatic hero of the South, had been soundly defeated.  General George Meade, appointed to command the Union troops just days before the battle, achieved a tactical victory regarded by his superiors as a strategic failure (Lincoln later said Meade held the Confederate Army in the palm of his hand but refused to close his fist).

Perhaps best known for Lincoln’s Gettysburg address given months after the fighting (delivered at the dedication of a cemetery), Gettysburg is a town, a free National Military Park, and hallowed ground.  But first, read these 275 words…275 of the most elegant words ever assembled by anyone:

Four score and seven years ago our fathers brought forth on this continent, a new nation, conceived in Liberty, and dedicated to the proposition that all men are created equal.

Now we are engaged in a great civil war, testing whether that nation, or any nation so conceived and dedicated, can long endure. We are met on a great battlefield of that war. We have come to dedicate a portion of that field, as a final resting place for those who here gave their lives that that nation might live. It is altogether fitting and proper that we should do this.

But, in a larger sense, we can not dedicate — we can not consecrate — we can not hallow — this ground. The brave men, living and dead, who struggled here, have consecrated it, far above our poor power to add or detract. The world will little note, nor long remember what we say here, but it can never forget what they did here. It is for us the living, rather, to be dedicated here to the unfinished work which they who fought here have thus far so nobly advanced. It is rather for us to be here dedicated to the great task remaining before us — that from these honored dead we take increased devotion to that cause for which they gave the last full measure of devotion — that we here highly resolve that these dead shall not have died in vain — that this nation, under God, shall have a new birth of freedom — and that government of the people, by the people, for the people, shall not perish from the earth.

Elegant, eloquent, and to the point:  Lincoln spoke for a short two minutes after a two-hour speech by a former Harvard College president.  Lincoln wrote the words himself (not, as rumor would have us believe, on the back of an envelope during the train ride to Gettysburg, but carefully crafted by Lincoln in the White House and then polished upon his arrival in Gettysburg).  No speechwriters, no opinion surveys, no communications experts as would be the case today.  I wish that in a nation of 330 million people we could find another Lincoln (rather than the continuing cascade of clowns we’ve had to choose from in the last several elections).

I first visited Gettysburg 60 years ago as a little kid and I was a little kid again on this visit.  Gettysburg was way more wonderful than I remembered but still the same.    The Visitor Center is new and better equipped.  There are more monuments (approximately 1,350 such monuments; you will see just a few in this blog).  The battlefield remains the same.  It is impressive.  You need to see it.

There are many exhibits in the Gettysburg Visitor Center, including two large displays of Union and Confederate sidearms.

You can take your car or motorcycle through Gettysburg National Military Park on a self-guided tour, you can take a bus tour, or you can hire a guide.  Any of these approaches are good.

Cannon line a typical road through the Gettysburg battlefield.

The Battle of Gettysburg occurred over three days (July 1 to July 3, 1863) that changed the calculus of the Civil War.  Lee took his Army of Northern Virginia north, hoping to continue an unbroken string of Confederate victories, so sure of his likely success that he ignored the tactical advice of his generals.   He prevailed on the first day, but flawed tactics and a combination of Union brilliance and resolve turned the tide and the War.  It culminated in what has become known as Pickett’s Charge, a Confederate uphill advance across a mile of open land into unrelenting Union cannon fire.  The Union artillery had the reach (two miles of direct fire; there were no forward observers adjusting fire as we have now).  The cannons were deadly, and then troops closed to small arms distance, and then finally to hand-to-hand combat.  More than 12,000 of Pickett’s men marched into the Union killing fields; nearly half were foolishly lost.  It was the turning point for everything: The South’s success, the Battle of Gettysburg, and the Civil War.

The views are magnificent. We were aided by an overcast day, with diffuse lighting that made for improved photography.

Numerous state militia fought at Gettysburg.  Each of the states and their militia erected monuments in the years following the Civil War.   The New York monuments were always the largest, at least until New York completed the last of its statues and structures.  Pennsylvania, waiting and watching patiently, then built a monument that dwarfed New York’s best efforts.  But all are impressive.

The 91st Pennsylvania Infantry monument on Little Round Top near Cemetery Ridge.  This area was the high ground held by the Union.

The two armies had been maneuvering near each other, and as is usually the case in such things, first contact was accidental.  The Confederate forces initially prevailed and their leader, General Robert E. Lee, assumed this success would continue.  Lee’s subordinate’s told him it would not, as they did not hold the high ground.  Lee pressed ahead anyway, suffering a defeat that marked a turning point (one of many) in the Civil War.

A view from Little Round Top, looking down into the killing fields of Pickett’s Charge.    12,000 men marched forward; more than half were lost in a single afternoon.

Gettysburg National Military Park is a photographer’s dream, and many battlefield areas present dramatic photo ops.  The monuments are impressive and more than a few offer several ways to frame a photo.

The 44th and 12th New York Infantry monument on Little Round Top at the south end of Cemetery Ridge, framing the field of battle. This is a massive and impressive monument.
Artillery lines in Gettysburg National Military Park. Many of the cannon are original items and saw actual use in the Battle of Gettysburg.
When the ammunition ran out, it was hand to hand fighting at Gettysburg.  This is the 72nd Pennsylvania Infantry monument on Cemetery Ridge.  The 72nd Pennsylvania Infantry played a key role in defeating the Confederate advance known as Pickett’s Charge.

I was up early the next morning before we left Gettysburg, and I returned to the battlefield to capture a better photo or two of the State of Pennsylvania monument.  It’s the largest in Gettysburg National Military Park. I was so impressed by it the day before I forgot to get a photo.

The State of Pennsylvania’s monument, at 110 feet tall, is the tallest of 1350 monuments on the Gettysburg battlefield. You can climb an interior spiral staircase to see the entire battlefield from this monument.
The beautiful 8th Pennsylvania Cavalry monument framing the State of Pennsylvania monument. The tree trunk beneath the horse was necessary to support the statue’s weight. Interestingly, the 8th Pennsylvania Cavalry did not take part in the fighting at Gettysburg, but instead guarded supply lines in Maryland.

The country roads leading to Gettysburg, and the riding in Pennsylvania, are way beyond just being good.  Several rides to Gettysburg are memorable, and everything on the battlefield is accessible via an extensive network of narrow lanes.  Take your time when navigating the Park’s interior battlefield lanes; this is an area best taken in at lower speeds.

A 180-degree panoramic view from Little Round Top. Click on this image to see a larger version.

Getting to Gettysburg is straightforward.  From the south take Interstate 83 north and State Route 116 east.  From the east or west you can ride Interstate 76 and then pick up any of the numbered state routes heading south.  If you are coming from points southwest, Maryland is not too far away and the riding through Catoctin Mountain Park on Maryland’s State Route 77 is some of the best you’ll ever find.

The best kept secrets at Gettysburg?  On the battlefield, it’s Neill Avenue, also known as the Lost Avenue.  It’s the least visited area of Gettysburg National Military Park, and probably the most original with regard to how the battlefield looked on those three fateful days in July 1863.  As for good places to eat, my vote is for The Blue and Gray Bar and Grill in downtown Gettysburg (just off the square in the center of town; try their chili) and Mr. G’s Ice Cream just a block away.   Both are excellent.


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