Joe Gresh

Endurofest 2021: Part 1

After a Covid-cancelled year in 2020 Endurofest came roaring back in 2021. Unfortunately the 2-year lay-off has already eroded my meager off-road skills.

On our very first ride I managed to do a header in a rough rocky section. I was bouncing along ricocheting from rock to rock when a combination of tired arms, inattention and poor riding skills pitched Godzilla’s front wheel sideways and down I went on my right side.

It was a hard landing on rocks and for a moment I couldn’t move, like in those dreams where you can’t move except I was awake. Or maybe I wasn’t awake. It was probably only a few seconds. As my senses returned I rolled over onto my back and looked up at the brilliant blue Utah sky in wonder. How did I get here?

My foot was pinned under the motorcycle and Larry had to lift the bike off me. I stood up pretty well and managed to get Godzilla started. I went very slow the rest of the trail.

Never one to miss plugging sponsor’s freebies, my BMG jacket and ancient, Speed & Strength helmet from The Helmet House took the brunt of the crash and I am only a little sore. Godzilla suffered a bent foot peg and a damaged front food platter.

I really need to ride more dirt to stay sharp. Dirt riding, like any skill, improves with repetition so I’ll go attack some more rocks.

I think we have about eight Enduros at this year’s fest. Down a bit but understandable considering the crappy year our entire planet had in 2020. It’s just good to see your old friends and shoot the breeze without worrying about dying.

Endurofest headquarters this year is at the Beaver, Utah Quality Inn. It’s a great location if you’re into a Fawlty Towers kind of management. I showed up early and the manager was freaking out saying “I can’t put you in the room the people haven’t left yet!” There was no panic from my end. I mean, I get it. Just asking.

I got a suspicious look when I asked for a room with two beds. “There’s only one of you. Why do you want two beds?” I don’t know why but I defended my request,”My buddy Hunter might show up.” That seemed to satisfy Basil so the deal went down as planned.

This blog may be riddled with errors as I’m typing it on a cell phone and can’t actually read what it says. More riding tomorrow!

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Yamaha RD350 Part 5: Stop Me If You’ve Heard This…

I have a bunch of projects stacked up here at Tinfiny Ranch but I really wanted to take the RD for a spin. One little problem: the front brake was not working on the motorcycle. I can ride with a lot of stuff out of commission on a motorcycle, like no air in the tires or a spark plug fouled but I can’t ride without a front brake. So I played hooky from my responsibilities and dug into the brake system.

Installing the aftermarket brake caliper was a doddle, it fit perfectly. The same was true of the aftermarket master cylinder on the right handlebar. The issue came when I filled the brake reservoir with DOT3 and started bleeding the air. I got nothing, zip, nada. Not amount of pumping and bleeding would produce a drop of brake fluid at the caliper.

I thought maybe the new master cylinder was bad so I loosened the master cylinder banjo nut and gave the lever a squeeze. Brake fluid shot out all over my RD’s beautiful purple paint. I was fast with the water hose rinse so no damage was done; at least now I knew something was plugged.

Taking the entire system apart revealed both upper and lower rubber hoses were plugged solid with dried up brake fluid. It took a length of bailing wire worked back and forth to clear the hoses. Then I squirted brake cleaner aerosol through the lines until they ran clear. I also blew out the brake switch manifold, as it was easy to get to with the rest of the brake system dismantled. Before you get all Internet Outraged, I have new rubber brake lines on order. The cleared hoses are temporary just to see if the bike runs ok.

Putting everything back together I could bleed the system and got fluid out of the caliper but the lever didn’t want to build much pressure. I read somewhere that if you pull the lever back to the handlebar and tie it off leaving it that way will get air out of the system. I don’t see how it can but I tried it. It didn’t work.

The next day I tried bleeding the brake again. I was getting good fluid without any air but the lever needed rapid pumping to get pressure on the disc. In short it sucked. I started thinking that there must be something wrong with the new master cylinder and took it apart. Everything looked good inside the bore. The piston and seals looked new.

Reassembling the master cylinder I noticed the lever didn’t completely release from the piston. There was no free play. No play at the master usually makes the brakes pump up not the other way around but I was open for ideas. The after market unit did not have a free play adjusting screw like the stock Yamaha master. I had two ways of adjusting the free play: Grind the lever where it contacted the piston or cut a sliver off the lever stop so that it could travel farther from the handgrip.

I cut a thin sliver from the stop and gained a bit of play. Putting the master back on the bike and bleeding the system again yielded the same results. There was no pressure until the last bit of lever travel.

This led me to examine the inner workings of the reservoir. It seemed like the return hole, the orifice that allows the fluid to return to the reservoir at rest, was bypassing a lot of fluid for the first 75% of lever travel. Plugging the return with my finger (the red arrow) immediately made good pressure at the lever.

You and I both know you can’t very well ride a motorcycle with your finger in the reservoir. It’s not conducive to proper control. I debated plugging the return hole and drilling another further up the bore to make the piston build pressure sooner and was nearly ready to attempt it when a tiny little voice in my head said, “You’re screwing up, Gresh.” I’ve never heard that voice. Must be old age.

At that point I gave up and ordered an Ebay rebuild kit for the stock Yamaha master cylinder. It irked me to no end that the kit cost more than an entire new, non-working master cylinder. The kit showed up and of course it was not at all like the original. The piston differed where the spring connected. The original had a plastic bobbin to seat the spring where the new kit simply lets the spring push directly onto the seal. I suspect the spring will eventually cut through the seal. When that happens tag my tombstone with “He rebuilt master cylinders.”

Until that day I’ll have brakes because the rebuilt master cylinder bled as normal. The RD350 has a killer front brake now. I’m serious: the RD350’s braking is only a step or two behind most modern bikes. It’s amazingly good and will stand the bike on its nose.

Finding a stock air filter was impossible so I sprung for a foam-type Uni filter from Dennis Kirk. It was on sale but still pricy and it fit the RD air box well; if anything it’s a bit too snug. Along the same air-flow lines I pulled the baffles out of the mufflers for cleaning. They were not very dirty leading me to believe the mileage on the bike is lower than the 20,000 the title states.

With a clear exhaust pipe, fresh new air cleaner and working brakes I took the RD for a 15-mile, unregistered spin and the thing ran like a dreidel. I ran through the gears and got to 80 miles per hour in short order. Everything seems to work and the next step will be to repack the steering bearings, replace the fork seals and install new brake hoses. The carbs might need a little synchronizing and I’ll work on that once I get around to lubing all the cables.

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ExhaustNotes Product Review: Sata Line Wrenches

I have a set of metric line wrenches somewhere. Craftsman brand, I believe. I used to do brake jobs at JC Penny on 49th Street in Hialeah so I have most everything you would need to work on metric and SAE brake systems. The cover image is a shot of the flare nut on the RD350’s brake switch manifold and is a reminder of the results you get when you can’t find the correct tools.

I feel pretty terrible about the situation. The RD350 is in super original condition with very few rounded and buggered fasteners. The flare nut on the brake manifold was as installed from Yamaha those many years ago. It was pristine. Not a mark on it: a perfect, six-sided masterpiece. Unfortunately, the brake hoses were clogged solid with hardened brake fluid and so they needed to come off.

And then I put a regular open-end wrench on the thing and rounded the corners. Sure, the nut came loose but at the cost of my emotional well being. My sense of self-worth took a huge hit. Anyway, I unplugged the rubber brake hoses and got the RD’s front brake working temporarily although I’ll need new hoses.

Much like letting smoldering horses out of a barn after it burns down, I ordered a set of Sata metric line wrenches, also called flare-nut wrenches. I’ll find my Craftsman set eventually but the RD350 is pristine right now. I don’t want to be the guy that ruins it.

The Satas, like practically everything we buy today, are made in China. They look really well made. I haven’t put extreme pressure on the wrenches but that’s mostly because flare nuts deform easily. You can’t put much oomph on them. A casual glance and you’d mistake Sata for Snap-On products (some of which are also made in China). The chrome work is smooth and glossy. The 10mm and 14mm fit snugly. I haven’t tried the other sizes.

The Satas are flank drive, meaning the wrench grips the flats of the nut instead of the corners. Flank drive wrenches are less likely to round off nuts and bolts. Flank drive has been around forever and most wrench manufacturers employ the design.

I’m pretty happy with the Satas. For a measly $10 you get a decent set of wrenches that are plenty strong for the weak nuts they will be turning. Another advantage to the Satas is that they resemble expensive tools so most likely your drunk and obnoxious riding buddies will never know that you cheaped out.

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ExhaustNotes Shed Slab Review: By The Numbers

I’ve finally finished the new floor in The Shed® at Tinfiny Ranch©. I didn’t really want to mix and pour the floor myself but events out of my control lead to that fateful decision. To understand how the floor ended up like it ended up you have to have an understanding of those aforementioned events.

The first thing everyone asks me is why didn’t I pour the floor first. It’s a valid question. The reason the shed went up on graded dirt had to do with time and money. Money was a problem because we had just bought Tinfiny ranch and our house budget allowed for a building or a slab, but not both.

Time was a problem because we were moving from a 3000 square foot rental house into a 600 square foot garage converted into a one bed, one bath home. All that junk from the big house had to go somewhere and renting a storage shed was out of the question. We were done renting crap.

We ended up buying a 30 X 50 Eagle Building for $13,000. Eagle buildings are the best square foot per dollar on the market and that price includes assembly on your land. The buildings are designed with a continuous steel sill that can be set up on bare ground as long as the ground is fairly even. No foundation needed.

The bad part about Eagle buildings is that they are not super heavy duty. They are a little stronger than a typical metal lawn building but not nearly as strong as a Mueller type building. Mueller buildings are very sturdy but cost twice as much as an Eagle and are delivered to your land on a series of pallets. You have to assemble the building yourself. Muellers also require a pre-poured slab with a foundation and all the attendant costs associated. I priced a 30 X 50 Mueller at $23,000. The foundation and slab was $26,000 from a local contractor. That $49,000 left you with a nice slab and numerous stacks of steel: you still had to build the building. I got a price of $6000 to assemble the Mueller from another local contractor.

Besides the fact that we couldn’t afford the Mueller and all that the Mueller involved, it would have been many months before we had storage for our junk. Three weeks after we bought the Eagle Building it was erected on Tinfiny Ranch and full of the junk we had dragged across country along with furnishings from the big rental.

I tried to get a local guy interested in pouring the shed floor but the job must have seemed too involved what with the building already in place and full of junk. I gave up for a year; just let the situation stay as is for a while. Then mice started burrowing under the edge of the building and wreaking havoc.

One of my Internet buddies is fond of saying, “Do it right or don’t do it at all.” He’s right, of course, but “Don’t do it at all” was not an option. That left “Do it wrong.” Sometimes in life stupid moves are the only moves you have left.

I started shunting junk towards the middle of the shed and pouring small sections whenever I felt in the mood. The solar power junction area was the first section I completed which allowed me to finish the off grid power system and shut that damn generator off.

The shed needed a foundation so I poured 16-inch J-bolts every 4 feet or so and once they were set I could excavate under the edge and pour a section of footer. I may not have needed the support from the J-bolts but the Eagle was flimsy and if the thing sagged or buckled even a little it would be a bear to fix. I erred in favor of not buckling the shed.

Progress was slow because there was so much stuff stored in the shed I could barely make room for a pour. When she wasn’t working CT and I would go through the hundreds of plastic tubs and each time we got rid of a few. Pieces of furniture neither of us liked were donated to the thrift store. Slowly I made headway and had enough room to build a loft where a couple hundred tubs of really good junk could be moved. The floor space kept increasing and I kept pouring.

The job was not a continuous thing. I might work on it one week and leave it for a month, or 4 months. Mice were a blessing and a curse. Once they chewed up an item or tub full of clothing it was an easy decision to take it to the dump. The dust was incredible; each breeze sent a cloud of fine sand whirling around the interior of the building.

I’ve been sporadically working on the shed floor for 3 years. It was overwhelming at times but as I got closer to the finish line I kicked it into high gear: This last month I could smell the barn if you don’t mind that sort of lame wordplay. It’s funny, I have no common recollection of the work I did. I mean, if I think about it I can remember pouring each slab but I feel no personal connection, the slab is just a slab, like it has always been there or I hired a guy to do the job. It’s enough for me that the floor is done and done wrong. Let’s take a look at the numbers:

- Number of individual slabs poured: 35
- Average number of 60# bags per pour: 42
- Thickness of floor: 4-inches
- Thickness of footing: 8-inches
- Thickness of sheer wall footing 10-inches
- Number of 60# bags of concrete used: 1500
- Total weight of concrete: 90,000 pounds
- Amount of concrete in square yards: 22.5
- Number of loads mixed @ 120# each: 750
- Number of 16-inch J-bolt piers: 45
- Estimated man-days to pour slabs: 80
- Cost of concrete: $4410
- Number of feet of ½” rebar: 250
- Number of feet of 3/8” rebar: 1600

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Yamaha RD350 Part 4: Stealing Moments

I’ve been on a tear lately. The shed floor is nearly done and I’m laying down some slabs, man. That doesn’t mean I haven’t managed to sneak in a little tinkering on the 1974 Yamaha Rd350. I mean, once the slab is poured and finished you’ve got to let it cure for a day. Green concrete is very fragile.

I wanted to drain the RD 350’s fluids before getting too far along. Which was kind of good because I discovered the oil tank wasn’t slotted into the rubber frame peg correctly. That meant taking out the battery to access the oil tank bolts.

It was no trouble at all to pull the tank, drain it and re-slot it onto the frame peg. The original feed hose drooped underneath the carburetors then rose over the clutch cover forming a trap. I didn’t like the looks of the trap so I shortened the feed hose a bit and routed it without a loop.

When I pulled out the battery to fix the oil tank I noticed the top of the battery had a melted spot. This melted spot corresponded with a melted positive wire to the battery. I suspect the battery is the wrong one. It looks too tall and there was a section of old inner tube covering the battery. I see no evidence of arcing on the seat pan but something melted the positive wire as it has been wrapped with electrical tape.

After refilling the oil tank I needed to bleed out any air in the feed line to the autolube pump. The pump area was shockingly clean. It looked like a new motorcycle inside.

I sent Deet photos of the pump as I was well pleased and wanted to show the thing off. Zooming in on my photo Deet noticed that the autolube pump was not adjusted correctly. The pin and dot are supposed to line up at idle.

The oil pump cable was adjusted as loose as the lock nuts would allow. This RD is near perfect except where mechanics have fouled it up. Resetting the pump was quick and now the pin lines up with the mark at idle.

The chain guard was sort of floppy because the front mount was missing its bolt and the rubber bushing, along with the spacer. I cobbled one together from bits and pieces; it will work until I find the correct parts.

The more I mess with the RD350 the more amazed I am at how unmolested it is. All the case screws look perfect (except for the ignition and pump screws). Opening things reveals factory fresh assembly. It’s almost too perfect: I’ve got to up my mechanical game to treat this motorcycle with the care it deserves.

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Yamaha RD350 Part 3: Possession is Nine-Tenths of The Law

The RD350 made a convoluted journey but at last it has arrived at Tinfiny Ranch. Originally I was going to fly out to my buddy Deet’s house in North Carolina and spend time there getting the bike in top shape for the ride back to New Mexico. That was a good plan but I’ve been stretched pretty thin around the ranch and the incomplete projects have been outnumbering the completed ones by a wide margin. Did I really want to take another motorcycle apart? Now? Not to mention that my New Mexico tag lady cannot issue temporary tags since some kind of rule change in August. That meant I would have to ride across most of the southern states with a license plate borrowed from one of the other bikes. Scenes from the movie Deliverance played in the theater of my mind.

Plan B was for me to drive out to North Carolina and retrieve the RD350, pile Deet into the truck and have a grand adventure on the way to New Mexico. This seemed like a solid plan until Deet started thinking about being stuck in a truck with me for three days and then sleeping on the concrete shed floor until I took him to El Paso for a flight home. He’s kinda funny in a George Thorogood way.

Plan C was for Deet to load the bike into his truck and drive it out to Tinfiny Ranch. “I’ve got to have my own wheels.” Deet told me over the phone, “I want to go when I feel like going.” Plan C-1 came about because it had been a while since we Messed With Hunter in real life. Videos are fine but nothing beats hand-to-hand smack talk. Plan C-1 had Deet driving to Hunter’s new house in Oklahoma with the RD350 in his truck and me driving to Hunter’s. There, the two of us would mercilessly tag-team harass the old sodturner.

And that’s how it went. We unloaded the RD at Hunter’s and loaded it into my truck. Deet took back Hunter’s 1968 DT-1 for a full restoration job back at Enduro Central and I dragged the RD back to Tinfiny Ranch.

It’s tempting to put off the concrete floor project and mess with the RD350 but long time readers will remember that I also have the Z1 carbs apart on the work bench. It’s time I finished something. I can’t just keep taking things apart.

The RD is in beautiful condition considering its age. At $4,250 this is the most expensive motorcycle I’ve ever bought. The paintwork has a few small scratches and some fading but I’ll be leaving it as is. From 10 feet away it looks practically new. Everything looks stock, if not original. The gas tank is clean inside and may have been replaced some years ago. The paint matches well but the decals look a bit newer than the decals on the side covers.

There is a bit of confusion on the mileage. The title says 20,000 but the odometer says 4,000. I imagine the speedometer was replaced at some point in the distant past. The seller, a Flipper, was not sure how many miles were on the thing. The RD350 certainly looks low mileage.

The Flipper put a new battery in the RD350 and the lights and switches seem to work ok. I think there may be a bulb out in the speedometer backlighting. The battery seems to charge, even the blinkers work! This bike still has a headlamp switch unlike modern bikes that have the lights on all the time. I have a key, too!

Being original is less important to me than having all the stock parts. Over 47 years it would not be unusual for repairs to be made on a motorcycle. Normal wear items like foot pegs and the seat cover look in good condition. This bike has not been beat up. The engine starts first kick, revs and idles well with no unusual rattles or knocks. The chrome is in very good condition and will polish up like nobodies’ business. In a first for me, the stock tool kit is still under the seat in its original, thin, black plastic pouch.

A few things I’ll be doing on the RD350 when I get tucked in are a new air filter as they tend to crumble and clog the carbs, new tires and tubes, fix the front hydraulic brake, grease the wheel bearings, adjust the clutch, change all the fluids, replace the outer crank seals, clean the carbs, clean the exhaust baffles, re-grease the steering head bearings, lube all the cables, add inline fuel filters and whatever else I come up with. It sounds like a lot but this is typical for old bikes needing to be made street worthy after sitting. Really, you can hop on the bike and ride it right now.

Most of the vintage bikes I’ve had in my life were in terrible condition when I got them. This Rd350 breaks that mold. I paid more at the onset but I have much more to work with than usual. I’m amazed at how little I have to do to get it running and cosmetically the thing just needs a bath and a polish.

The concrete floor and the Z1 carbs come first but that doesn’t mean I won’t be ordering parts for the RD350. Watch this space for Hasty Conclusion reviews and further updates on the RD’s progress.

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ExNotes Hasty Conclusions: Aftermarket Yamaha RD 350 Brake Caliper

This brake caliper represents a tectonic shift in my thinking. I’ve always rebuilt rather than buy new because rebuilding is less expensive. And that’s still true, sort of. The shift comes from my adding personal time into the value equation. Until recently I’ve never given my time a fair shake when it comes to fixing things. I mean, I’ve always had plenty of time, you know? But as I slip into the golden years, those final few moments of a fleeting existence that only the lucky few get to enjoy, I’ve begun to budget how I spend the remains of the day. “He Rebuilt Brake Calipers” is not what I want on the tiny, polka-dot ceramic frog that holds my ashes.

The new-to-me RD 350’s front brake is not working. Reports from Deet in Raleigh indicate the fluid is gone or the master cylinder piston is stuck in the bore. There is no resistance at the lever, futile or otherwise. I’m pretty well snowed under with self-induced projects at Tinfiny Ranch so after adding up a seal kit ($20), brake pads ($20), and the little Yamaha emblem, along with shiny new chrome hardware, this complete and new caliper at $117 seems like a fair deal if you deduct the hours it will take me to make the old caliper as sweet as the new caliper.

Vintage purists will freak out, “It’s not OEM!” they’ll cry. “Chinese junk,” they’ll type on their Chinese electronics. Look, I don’t like those purist bastards anyway. The non-stock master cylinder will really get them going. It’s a generic unit that is nothing like the original unit but I want to take the RD for a spin and this $20 master cylinder is the fastest way to get on the road. Since an OEM aftermarket copy is not available I plan to rebuild the original master cylinder when I get time. There’s that word again: Time.

For $137 I have a mostly new brake system. Going the rebuild route would end up costing around $70 and that wouldn’t include the new chrome hardware or the aluminum Yamaha caliper insignia. Keep clicking on ExhaustNotes.us and we shall see if the time saved was worth the extra money spent.

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Two For The Road Part 1: 350 Yamaha RDreaming

One of my long-time dream bikes has been Yamaha’s RD350 twin built back in the mid-1970’s. My old buddy from childhood, Billy Mac, had a new 1973 RD350 and every time I rode it back then I was amazed at the power and agility of the 350cc two-stroke twin. The bike could do it all from off road to flat tracking sideways in asphalt parking lots. With power, braking, handling and style, a RD350 had it all over the other bikes built in that era. I never forgot the thrill of riding such an utterly competent motorcycle.

The 1974 RD350 was my favorite year. The deep purple paint and tasteful graphics were made for royalty such as I. Prices for RD350’s keep slowly climbing and seem to always stay just out of reach on my personal value/desirability scale for vintage motorcycles. Stock bikes are getting harder to find as every Teen-Spirit RD350 owner butchers the bike trying to improve on perfection.

Last week, on a routine Craigslist scouting mission I came upon this RD350, my RD350. The thing is bone stock and I paid too much for it but I really don’t have that many years left to spend looking for the ultimate barn find deal. I sent a link to my wife, CT, and she said “If you don’t buy the thing I’m going to buy it for you.” She knew the bike was The One as I have been telling her about how great RD350’s are for many years.

My next step was to get a set of trustworthy eyes on the machine as it was 1700 miles away. A call to Deet, AKA Dr. Enduro, was made and he agreed to enable my addiction by driving 3 hours each way to look at the bike. And, oh yeah, buy the bike for me. The bike price was at the top-end for RD350’s but was in much better condition compared to other top-price bikes I have checked out online.

“The bike started first kick and sounds fine.” Deet told me. I left the purchasing decision up to Deet, as I could add nothing to the mix from my lair in New Mexico. The seller was a flipper and knew his values well. Thankfully he had only replaced the battery and left the bike as he found it, which was fine by me. Deet managed to beat the seller down $350, understandable as it was Deet’s money funding my dream. So we ended up at $4250. I know, I know, it’s a lot of money for an old bike.

The bike is now safely ensconced inside Deet’s top-secret Enduro hospital and after I get a few things done around here I’ll be heading to North Carolina to retrieve my prize. I guess the only question left is do I ride it back to New Mexico or bring it home in the truck?

(All photos by Deet.)

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ExNotes Long Term Product Review: Sears Craftsman Air Compressor

Here at ExhaustNotes.us we take the time to give you real world, long term results in our product tests. Anyone can test a thing for a few months or a year but does that really give you an idea how the product will be working in 5 years? How about 10 years? How about 50 years?

I bought this Sears Craftsman air compressor back in the 1970s. I forget the exact year but I remember it cost a fortune. I think I got it on sale for around 200 dollars and it was the most expensive tool I had ever bought up to that time. It must have cost several week’s wages. It used to have a beige plastic cover over the motor and pump but that oxidized and turned to dust after 20 years or so.

The Sears compressor came complete with a spray gun. It was kind of a rinky-dink gun so I bought a Binks 18. I wanted to be a car painter and to paint cars you had to have a Binks Model 18. The Model 18 was pro-level equipment and I figured that if I had one I could paint like a pro. The 18 also cost a fortune in 1970 money and it weighs a ton. The Sears gun is quite a bit lighter. Weight matters when you’re leaning over a hood or roof trying to hold the hose out of the way and not drip sweat onto the car.

I found out too late that much like camera gear being the least important part of photography, the spray gun is the least important part of painting. I learned surface prep, dust control and a steady hand count for much more. One day I tried the Sears gun just for fun and it laid down a wide, even pattern; it was better than the Binks 18. The damn thing worked great and was easier to clean.

The years had not been kind to the pressure gauges on the Sears compressor. The old dials lost their clear lenses at some point and the faces rusted and turned black. It was sacrilege but I replaced them with a set from Harbor Freight. The old gauges had a cool Sears logo on them but time waits for no manifold.

I rewired the original 40-year-old compressor motor to run off 240 volts rather than 120 volts. It starts better with less droop on my off-grid shed. In the past I tried to run the compressor with a square-wave inverter and it started smoking. It seems to have recovered from that trauma and the motor only gets warm running on my new inverter.

One problem that cropped up several years ago was the easy-start pressure relief valve leaking all the time making the compressor cycle on and off more frequently. I dismantled the valve and cleaned it out. It seems to be okay now with just one quick puff of air escaping when the tank reaches pressure. I’ve set the max pressure to 80 psi just to give the old girl a little rest in her dotage. I don’t need 100 psi for anything and I’m not in a rush to get things done.

When I bought the compressor new I hated the cheap, plastic wheels. I was sure they would not last long and planned to go with some steel, ball-bearing replacements. That never happened because the wheels never broke. This rig has been hauled around boat yards, over gravel and rocks, and loaded into and out of trucks. The thing must have 20 miles on it by now.

I added a water trap and filter to the compressor, the kind with the auto drain valve. That valve saw a lot of use in humid Florida but out west in New Mexico it has yet to dump water. The hose was looking bad after 50 years so I replaced it with a snazzy red one because red is the fastest color.

The quick release air chucks were showing their age so I screwed new ones into place in a strictly prophylactic move. I like to keep my gear in top shape, you know?

The recent service I’ve given the compressor (tighten belt, clean air filter, change oil) should be good for another 10 years at the pace I work now. I give the old Sears compressor high marks, 5 stars even. The Craftsman spray gun is a good piece of gear also; I’ve painted a few cars with it. Too bad Sears no longer sells this model and hasn’t for a long, long time. Is Sears even in business? That’s one of the big problems with an ExhaustNotes.us long term review: by the time we’re done testing the product the product no longer exists nor does the company that sold it. No matter, watch for our big 20-rotary-phone comparo test in a future ExhaustNotes.us.

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ExhaustNotes Review: Harley-Davidson Sportster LC

I’ve typed a lot of words and rearranged them in a zillion different ways but I’ve never coined a phrase. Those days are over now and you heard it here first: The Sportster LC. It’s all mine and don’t forget who came up with it because I may never do another.

Harley’s quantum leap forward takes the Sportster from 1950s technology all the way into the 1990s and beyond. The new Sportster features fuel injection, liquid cooling, a claimed 120 horsepower and a passing resemblance to Sportsters of old. That’s all good stuff, man.

I’ve always liked Sportsters. Until the V-Rod came along they were the most advanced American-built Harleys you could buy and with the addition of electronic ignition they were the most reliable Harleys to boot. I owned a Sportster and loved how it looked parked, which it did a lot because the old 1968 XLH shook itself to pieces every 200 miles. Nevertheless it was an easy motorcycle to fix and my old Sporty never left me stranded.

The Sportster LC is a completely new model that has been the worst kept secret since the Pan American, which uses the same engine. With a bore of 4.13 inches and a shortish stroke of only 2.85 inches the new two-cylinder Sportster displaces 76.4 cubic inches in total, or ½ a bushel. We never converted to metric in the USA. Each head contains two cams pushing on four valves. With a 12:1 compression ratio you’ll be running high-test unless you’re under 50 years old in which case you’ll be stuck using premium. Harley’s combustion chambers have forced owners to buy high-test for years so nothing has changed except the power output. None of these design features is new thinking: it’s a well-trod path to modern performance numbers.

Harley claims 120 horsepower; that’s probably measured at the wrist pin so I expect 105-108-ish at the wheel, plenty for street riding. The Sportster LC puts out a claimed 94 ft-lbs of torque so taking off from a stoplight should be drama free. A claimed wet weight of 502 pounds is positively sprightly and undercuts the base model Pan American by 32 pounds. 32 pounds is a lot of weight. I’ve ridden 500-pound motorcycles in the dirt and it’s the absolute limit I would consider safe. The LC should be fun on graded county roads.

Styling on the LC is squashed and compact, almost like the bike fell into a car crusher but was retrieved before becoming a cube. There are no air gaps and the big, fat tires on both ends give the LC an overstuffed living room couch look. I’m not sold on the looks but it’s passable even if it seems to copy the Indian Scout. There are only so many ways to configure a crushed V-twin so the plagiarism is probably unintended. I like the upswept pipes, they give the LC a flat-track racer vibe and that’s a good vibe to have.

Things get a little nasty on the left side of the LC. Without the big upswept exhaust covering the mess all the complexity of a modern motorcycle is exposed. Let’s face it: The thing looks like a commercial air conditioning system from the left side. Still, I wouldn’t let the LC’s looks stop me from buying one assuming I would ever spend $15,000 on a damn motorcycle.

The looks won’t stop me from buying one but the seat-to-foot peg layout might. I can’t stand forward controls. I get that with the ultra low seat there would be no way to fold your legs tight enough for a more normal foot peg placement. Maybe Harley will come out with a Sportster LC Sport with more suspension, a higher seat and controls situated in such a way that you can ride the bike.

The LC comes with Bluetooth connectivity, cornering rider safety enhancements, ABS, traction control, selectable riding modes and cruise control. All stuff I hate except for cruise control. You may like dick-dogging with that electronic chaff but I’d rather ride a motorcycle than play digital commander. Hopefully pulling a few fuses and a warning light or two will disarm all that junk.

With only one disc stopping 120 horsepower and 650 pounds of bike and lightweight rider I sense the front brake may not be up to the modern standards of the engine and electronics package. I hope I’m wrong. Big fat tires usually make for a ponderous ride, but again, I hope I’m wrong. I seem to be doing a lot of hoping I’m wrong with this Harley Davidson.

What’s it like to ride? How would I know? I never get invited to Harley press junkets so you’ll have to get to one of H-D’s test ride events to find that out. My impression of the bike is that it’s a big improvement over the old Sportster but without the old Sporty’s provenance the LC has a long way to go before it reaches the beloved status the 1957 and up models achieved.

I guess what I liked about the old model was the tactile feel of sitting atop explosions propelling you down the highway. You never forgot you were riding a motorcycle. The Sportster didn’t become a legend by accident. Years of competition, countless race victories, heroic rides, and a fairly solid bottom end crank assembly and gearbox has made the Sportster a motorcycle everyone wants to buy used. I still want a XR1200R Sportster bad and have since I first saw one. Only time will tell if the new Sportster LC will be able to burrow into my heart the same bad-like way.

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