Pen Pals

Susy and Adrienne, then and now, meeting for the first time ever!

Everybody loves a good human interest story, and it’s hard to imagine one better than this.   Sue and I are in Perth, Australia, and the specific reason we came here was for Sue to meet her lifelong pen pal Adrienne.   Adrienne is from New Zealand, Sue is a California lady, and these two beautiful women have been pen pals for 56 years.   Yesterday, they finally met in person for the first time.  We had a great day, and I wanted to share it with you.

A note from Marty…

Good buddy Marty (with whom I’ve been riding for a long time) sent this email and photo yesterday…

Joe,

That is me, about 1954, on a 1953 Triumph T100C. It had a 500cc alloy engine, and (fanfare) twin carburetors (thus earning the C for competition). I loved this bike, it handled well, and for its time, was a road-burner. I ran it so hard that I collapsed a valve, and instead of fixing it, traded it on a 1957 Triumph Tiger 110 (which wasn’t as fast!). Good times, good memories.

Marty 

Very cool, Marty, and thanks very much.

Marty and I have traveled a lot of miles together, including trips through the US, Baja, and the Three Flags Classic covered here on the ExNotes blog.  This is a more recent photo of Marty and his BMW…

My Optical Illusion

The Harley Electra-Glide Classic, as seen in Harley’s 1979 sales brochure.

It was beautiful, it was something I always dreamed about owning, and I couldn’t ride a hundred miles on it without something breaking. I paid more for it than anything I had ever purchased, I sold it in disgust two years later for half that amount, and today it’s worth maybe five times the original purchase price. I wish I still had it. I’m talking about my 1979 Harley-Davidson Electra-Glide, of course. That’s the tan-and-cream motorcycle you see in the photo above, scanned from my original 1979 Harley brochure.  The motorcycle is long gone.  I had the foresight to hang on to the brochure.

All of the photos in this blog are from that brochure. I wasn’t into photography in those days, but I wish now that I had been. The Harley’s inability to go a hundred miles without a breakdown notwithstanding, I hit a lot of scenic spots in the Great State of Texas back in 1979. The Harley’s colors would have photographed well. The only photo I can remember now is one of me working on the Harley with the cylinder heads off. It seems that’s how the Harley liked to be seen. But I’m getting ahead of myself.

The 1979 Harley brochure cover.

So the year was 1979, I was young and single, and I was an engineer on the F-16 at General Dynamics in Fort Worth doing the things that well-compensated, single young guys did in those days: Drinking, riding (not at the same time), chasing young women, and dreaming about motorcycles. If you had mentioned gender-neutral bathrooms, man bun hairstyles, a universal basic income, democratic socialism, sanctuary cities, the Internet, or something called email in those days (especially in Texas), no one would have had any idea what you were talking about, and if you took the time to explain such things, you would have been run out of town after being shot a few times.  Texas in 1979 was a good time and a good place.

I stopped often at the Fort Worth Harley dealer, and Harley was just starting to get into the nostalgia thing. I had sold my ’78 Bonneville and I had the urge to ride again. Harley had a bike called the Café Racer and I liked it a lot, but I took a pass on that one. Then they introduced the Low Rider and I loved it, but when sitting on the showroom Low Rider I turned the handlebars and one of the handlebar risers fractured (Harleys had a few quality issues in those days). Nope, it wouldn’t be a Low Rider. Then they introduced the Electra-Glide Classic, that stunning bike you see in the photos here.  It was a dagger that went straight to my heart.  I was stricken.

The Electra-Glide Classic was Harley’s first big push into the nostalgia shtick and it stuck. At least for me it did. My first memory of ever being stopped dead in my tracks by a visually-arresting motorcycle was with a Harley Duo-Glide full dresser when I was a kid (it was blue and white), and the Classic brought that memory home for me. The Classic’s two-tone tan-and-cream pastels were evocative of the ‘50s, maybe a Chevy Bel Air (even though those were turquoise and white, a color Harley later adopted in the early ‘90s with its Heritage Softails).  The whole thing just worked for me.  I had to have it.

I sat on the Classic and it was all over for me. I fell in love. I knew at that instant that I was meant to be a Harley man. I turned the handlebars and nothing broke. There was a cool old sales guy there named Marvin, and I asked what the bike would cost out the door. He already knew the answer: $5,998.30.

A two-page spread featuring the bike I bought.

Hmmm.  $5,998.30.  That was a lot of money. I was riding around in a new CB-equipped Ford F-150 that had cost less than that amount (hey, it was Texas; Breaker One Nine and all that).  My internal struggle (extreme want versus $5,998.30) was apparent to old Marvin.

“You know you want it,” Marvin said, smiling an oily, used-car-salesman, Brylcreem smile (these guys all went to the same clothing stores and barbers, I think).  “What’s holding you back?”

“I’m trying to get my head wrapped around spending $6,000 for a motorcycle,” I said.

Marvin knew the drill. He was good at what he did. He probably made a lot more money than I did.

“Are you single?” he asked.

“Yep.”

“Working?”

“Yep.”

“Got any debt?”

“Nope.”

“So what’s your problem?”

“It’s like I said, Marvin,” I answered. “I’m trying to justify spending six grand on a motorcycle.”

“You’re single, right?”

“Yep.”

“Well, who do you need to justify it to?”

And, as Tom Hanks would say 30 years later in Forrest Gump, just like that I became a Harley rider.

Another two-page spread in the ’79 brochure, showing the entire Harley line. They were beautiful motorcycles.

Yeah, the bike had a lot of quality issues, the most bothersome being a well-known (after you bought one, that is) tendency for the new 80-cubic-inch Shovelhead valves to stick. I first stuck a valve at around 4,000 miles (all of a sudden my Classic was a 40-cubic-inch single, and Harley fixed it on the warranty). I asked Marvin about that, and the answer was, “Yeah, this unleaded gas thing don’t work too good with the new motors. Put a little Marvel Mystery Oil in each of the tanks, or maybe a dime’s worth of diesel, and you’ll be okay…”

Seriously?  Marvel Mystery Oil?  Diesel fuel?

But I wanted to be good guy, and I did as directed.  It wasn’t enough.  A valve stuck again at 8,000 miles, Marvel Mystery Oil and that dime’s worth of diesel notwithstanding.  Another trip to the dealer, and another valve job. I could see where this was going. The bike had a 12,000 mile warranty.

“So, Marvin,” I began, “what happens the next time a valve hangs up?”

Marvin smiled a knowing smile. “It all depends which side of that 12,000 miles you’re on.”  Somehow, Marvin’s Texas accent made it not hurt as much.

Sure enough, at 12,473 miles, a valve stuck for a third time. This one was on me. I pulled the heads, brought them to the dealer, and paid for that valve job. You know, you can just about fix anything on a Harley with a 9/16 wrench and a screwdriver. It was easy to work on. But it wasn’t just the valves sticking. The rear disk brake had problems. The primary cover leaked incessantly. And a bunch of other little things. I’m not kidding. The mean time between failures on that bike was about a hundred miles, and I’d had enough.  I called the bike my Optical Illusion.  It looked like a motorcycle.

One other thing about the Harley sticks out.  I took it with me when I moved to California, and at one of the dealers one of the many times when it was in for service, the dealer’s mascot did what I suddenly realized I had wanted to do.  That mascot was a huge, slobbering St. Bernard.  It sauntered over to my bike and took a leak on the rear wheel.  “Oooh, better hose that down,” the service manager said.  “That will eat up the aluminum wheel.”   I had to laugh (hell, everyone else was) as the guy sprayed water from a garden hose all over the bike.   That dog had beat me to it.  He did what I had felt like doing the entire time I owned the bike.  The kicker is that even though the service manager sprayed the bejesus out of the bike in a vain attempt to remove all traces of the St. Bernard’s territorial claims, it was all for naught.  From that day on wherever I went if there was a dog within a hundred yards, it did the same thing.  My Harley was a two-tone tan-and-cream traveling fire hydrant.

Good Lord, though, that Harley was beautiful. Park it anywhere and it would draw a crowd. Half the people who saw it wanted a ride, and if they were female I was happy to oblige. It was big and heavy and it didn’t handle worth a damn, but it sure was pretty. The only time I almost crashed I was riding through a strip mall parking lot admiring my reflection in the store windows.  That’s how good-looking it was.  I wish I kept it.


Read about our other Dream Bikes!

Back in the Day: The Honda Cub

I enjoyed this video.  I think you will, too.

Good buddy TK sent this to me a day or two ago (thanks, TK). I didn’t know the Honda Cub was the best-selling vehicle on the planet or that Honda had produced a cool 100 million of the things, and I think that number is all the more significant because several manufacturers make copies of the Cub not included in the total described in the video above.  One of the other  manufacturers producing a Cub variant is Zongshen.   I saw several of Zongshen’s production lines during my many visits to Chongqing.

On the Zongshen production line.
Another shot of Zongshen’s modern Cub production line. Folks who criticize Chinese motorcycles are doing little other than displaying their ignorance.

I owned a 50cc Cub back in the day.  I was a teenager and a guy down the street had one he picked up in a trade of some sort.  He just wanted to get rid of it and $50 later it was mine.   It was fun, and it was incredibly well built.  I wish I still had it.

Hey, on another note, I have a new article in print this month.   It’s in the June 2019 issue of RoadRUNNER magazine, and it’s on the Chinese motorcycle industry.  I know a bit about that world, and yeah, I’m an unabashed fan of the Chinese.  I’ve been in Chinese factories and I’ve ridden their motorcycles.   The Chinese motorcycle industry’s process control and production capabilities are as good as or better than any in the world, and folks who recoil at the idea of a Chinese motorcycle are simply displaying antiquated prejudices and ignorance.  I expect I’ll get a few emails and maybe a few comments on that last statement, and we welcome them.   The June ’19 issue will be on the newsstands in a few more days, and for those of you who subscribe to RoadRUNNER, you are receiving your copies now.  My copy arrived in the mail yesterday, and I am enjoying it enormously.  The travel and other stories (and the accompanying photography) are just outstanding.    If you’re not already subscribing to RoadRUNNER, you should be, and you can sign on here.

The real deal…a Genuine motorcycle!

Yours truly and the Genuine G400c, patrolling the mean streets of San Francisco!

This is one of those blogs for which I could have used any of several titles.   The Real Deal got the nod, as this is indeed the real deal…a genuine (pardon the pun) motorcycle.   Another contender was The Streets of San Francisco, like that Karl Malden and Michael Douglas show 30 years ago.  And yet another was We Are Living In Interesting Times (read on, and you’ll see what I mean).

Anyway, enough of the trip down memory lane and alternative blog titles. I made a few memories of my own yesterday, riding around downtown San Francisco around good buddy Lunchbox’s San Francisco Scooter Centre.   Barry is the guy who owns and runs the dealership, but Lunchbox is the guy in charge.   He’s about a year old now (I’ve known him since he was a pup), and he’s a cool 82 lbs.    After checking in with Lunchbox, I visited with Barry for a bit.  I always like coming up here.  I like Lunchbox, I like the city, I like the San Francisco Scooter Centre, and I like Barry.

Lunchbox, the man in charge. He’s cool. He lets Barry think he’s the guy running the San Francisco Scooter Centre, but Lunchbox is the one really calling the shots.
Good buddy Barry and the Genuine G400c motorcycle.

Barry and I had a great taco lunch downtown, we talked about the motorcycle market, and we swapped stories about a couple of our other common interests.  Then it was time to get on the G400c.  Barry tossed me the keys and the bike’s registration, and told me to have fun.   Being a guy who aims to please, I did as I was told.  It was easy on the Genuine.

So let me tell you about the Genuine G400c. The first thing I noticed was that it’s a motorcycle.  A real motorcycle.  Tear drop gas tank (where the gas actually goes), a tach and speedo that look like a tach and speedo should, and a long, low, flat seat (good for moving around on when necessary, carrying a passenger, and strapping on soft luggage for longer trips).  Wire wheels.  Chrome fenders.    Chrome handlebars that put the controls in comfortable reach.   It all came together the way it should.   Yessiree, this is a motorcycle that is visually appealing.  None of that Ricky Racer, low bar face on the tank, angry Ninja insect, or giraffesque ADV wannabe silliness or styling.  This is a motorcycle that looks like a motorcycle should.

The next thing I noticed was that the G400c was easy to throw a leg over.  It’s been a while since I’ve been on a bike where I could say that.   I’ll say more on this in a bit.

And another thing I noticed was that the bike sounds like a motorcycle. A real motorcycle.   A Genuine motorcycle.  I like that, too.  I had my big Nikon with me (the D810) and I grabbed a video of the startup sequence…

This bike sounds good.  It has a nice, deep, throaty rumble.   The skyscrapers I darted between in downtown San Francisco amplified the exhaust note, and the reverberations were intoxicating.  There’s something undeniably cool about riding a nimble, throaty motorcycle in a city.  It would have been cool to grab more video of myself riding around San Francisco, but I’m not as talented as Joe Gresh in that regard and besides, I was having too much fun.  You can have a great ride or you can make a great video.  Unless you’re Joe Gresh, you can’t do both at the same time.

So back to that nimble thing.  You’re reading something written by a guy who thinks that somewhere in the 1970s and the 1980s the wheels came off the wagon here in the US with regard to motorcycle size and complexity, and until very recently, things have continued to get nuttier as the years have gone by and advertising guys (who are supposed to be creative people) kept defaulting to bigger has to be better.  My thoughts are in synch with most of the rest of the motorcycle world (not the aforementioned advertising gurus) in that I think a 250cc is the perfect size.   A 400cc single is even better, especially if it comes in a 250cc-sized package, and that’s what the G400c is.

I don’t know the Genuine’s weight.  I could find it in a few seconds with a Google search, but I don’t need to.  I know what I need to know from my ride, and that’s this: The G400c is light and it’s nimble, and that’s all the spec I need.   Hell, you can’t trust what most of the manufacturers tell you about their bikes’ weights, anyway.  And even if you could believe their numbers, what really matters is where a bike’s center of gravity is located.   Make it too high, and a motorcycle will feel unwieldy regardless of its weight.  Make it low, though, and a bike becomes flickable, agile, nimble, and just plain fun to ride.   That’s what this machine is.   I had fun splitting lanes and braaapping around downtown San Francisco.  The G400c is perfect for that, but that’s not the only arena in which I see it excelling.  I think the G400c would be a great bike for a Baja ride, too.  Someday.  We’ll see.

Next up:  Seat height.  It’s the same story here, folks.  Like I said earlier, I could throw my leg over the seat without having to take a yoga class or do any stretching exercises, and you know what?  That’s a good feeling.  The saddle is low enough to make getting on and off the bike easy, and that’s decidedly not the case for a lot of motorcycles these days.

You might ask about suspension travel.  When I was younger and dumber, I used to pour over the spec sheets you’d see in the motorcycle magazines, and then I realized that unless you plan to ride motocross, the only thing a ton of suspension travel does for a street bike is make thing way too tall.   The G400c seat height was just where I needed it to be.   And on that suspension travel topic, I’ll let you in on a little secret:  Even though our taxes in California (and San Francisco in particular) are among the highest in the world, we still have lousy streets with lots of potholes and rough sections.  The G400c was fine being flung around in the city, sloppy streets and road surfaces notwithstanding.  It soaked it all up without a whimper.  I’d like to buttonhole our politicians someday and ask them:  Exactly where does all that tax money go?  In the meantime, though, I know the suspension on the G400c gets the job done.

Mean streets? Bring ’em on. The G400c was just plain fun riding around San Francisco.  It’s a comfortable, right-sized motorcycle.

I didn’t take the G400c on the freeway, although Barry invited me to do so.  Nope, the freeways are typically a mess in San Francisco, and I figured (correctly, as I experienced on the drive out of San Francisco later in the day) I could actually get more miles in and reach higher top speeds on the city streets.  And I did.  Until this guy you see in the photo caught up with me, lit me up, and started casting dirty looks my way.  Then he got in front of me.  Point taken, Officer.  I rode a bit more like a normal person after that.

Another view from the cockpit. I like the instrument layout. It’s what a motorcycle is supposed to look like.

Okay, let’s not ignore the 800-lb gorilla in the room:  The G400c is manufactured in China.   As many of you know, I know a little bit about Chinese motorcycles and I played a tangential role in making the case for Chinese quality when CSC Motorcycles started importing the Zongshen RX3 back in 2015.   You might have trepidations about buying a Chinese motorcycle, and it’s almost a certainty you know people who badmouth Chinese products.   My advice when you hear the inevitable anti-China mush is to remember that God loves stupid people (because He sure made a lot of them).   Yeah, they’ve got their stories about their buddy who worked at a dealer 10 years ago and he told them…well, you get the idea.  Folks, these people just don’t know.

I know a little bit about this topic, I think.  Maybe more than most of the weenies posting opinions on Facebook and the motorcycle forums.

My advice is to blow these weenies off, get yourself to a dealer, and see for yourself.  I know a little bit about quality and manufacturing, I’ve been in several Chinese manufacturing plants, and I’m here to tell you that Chinese motorcycle quality is as good as or better than anything that’s out there.   Consider this:  Automobile and motorcycle companies like BMW, Vespa, Honda, Suzuki, and many others have components, major subassemblies, engines, and complete motorcycles manufactured in China.  These world-class companies wouldn’t be doing that if the quality was low.

You might have a concern about the G400c being a new bike, that is to say, one that doesn’t have a track record.  Actually, that’s not the case.  This motorcycle has been rolling around China for a good three years now (I saw them when I rode across China on the RX3 a few years ago).  The G400c is manufactured for Genuine by Shineray (it’s pronounced Shin-yu-way), and in China, they have been selling two versions of the bike for several years (a street version and an adventure-touring-styled version).   The riding in China is way tougher than it is here.   We tend to use our motorcycles as toys.  In China, motorcycles are work horses.  They are ridden hard and put away wet.

Another thing that’s nice about the G400c motor is that it’s a Honda clone.  The concept (but not the engine) here is the same as the Honda CG clone motors that power the CSC and Janus bikes…an engine based on a Honda design built for an environment where folks don’t take care of their bikes.  It’s a different Honda motor design, but it’s a proven design.  It’s a strong, torquey, fuel injected single.

The G400c’s braking is good.  It’s a single disk in front, and a drum in the rear.   A lot of folks will be grasping their chest and convulsing at the thought of a drum brake in back, but it works, and it works for me.   Again, don’t let some kid writing a magazine article (or worse, someone posting an opinion on Facebook) tell you that you have to have a disk brake in back.   Drum brakes have worked fine for decades.  It’s one of the things keeping the cost down on this bike, and it’s a reasonable tradeoff.  Like it said, it works for me.

What I don’t know yet is the parts availability question, nor do I know about the availability of a shop manual.   Those are fair questions to ask a dealer.  I didn’t, mostly because I was focused on the riding.

Genuine states the top speed is over 80 mph.  I’ve ridden bikes with the same engine in China and I saw indicated speeds on city streets over 90 mph and the bike still had more left (and at that point I thought to myself “Whoa, Bucko…what am I doing here?”).   I think the top end is more than adequate for any real world needs.  And on that note, this is another area in which you hear the keyboard commandos espouse things like “Ah need a bike made in ‘Merica that can do at least a hunnert twenty miles per hour or I’ll get run over…”   You do, huh?  Hey, I rode across China, I’ve been up and down Baja a bunch of times, I circumnavigated the Andes Mountains in Colombia, and I’ve ridden all over the US.  And I did all of this on 250cc motorcycles.  Motorcycles made in China, to be specific.   But what do I know?

You might ask:  Are there any negatives?  I guess to play magazine road test writer I have to find something, and on the G400c it might be that some of the details could be more finely finished.  Maybe the handlebar switchgear castings could be polished a little more, things like that.   Barry told me the bike I rode is one of the very earliest ones to arrive in America, and that Genuine is sweating the cosmetic details like this.  But these are minor points.   The next question would be:   Would I recommend buying this bike?  To that question, the answer is yes.  They retail at about $4600, and with all the fees they go out the door at a notch above $5700.  Barry is one of the few honest dealers I know in that he doesn’t treat setup and freight as a major profit center.  Here’s how he has the bikes priced…

The G400c pricing sheet at the San Francisco Scooter Centre. Freight and setup are honest numbers here, which isn’t the case at many other dealers.

We are living in interesting times.  Just a few years ago the small motorcycle landscape in the US was pretty barren, and what few bikes were out there carried stupid-high prices and obscene dealer freight and setup fees.  Our choices in recent decades have been outrageously tall, fat, and heavy motorcycles with prices in the stratosphere.  Today, the moto menu before us is interesting and intriguing, and it’s rooted in the real world.   There’s the CSC Motorcycles line with several 250cc selections and soon, the 450cc RX4.   There the Janus line of magnificently-handcrafted contemporary classics.   There’s Royal Enfield, with their 400cc Himalayan, 500cc Classic, and soon-to-be-released 650cc Interceptor (at an incredible $5795).   I’ve ridden nearly all of these motorcycles (I haven’t caught a ride on the Himalayan yet, but that’s coming up), and I’ve ridden many of them through Baja (you can read about our Enfield Baja trip, the Janus Baja trip, and any of several CSC Baja trips).  And now, there’s another great bike in the mix:   The Genuine 400c.   For the first time in a long time, we have choices.  Good choices that won’t break the bank.  Life is good, folks.


Check out our related Genuine G400c and San Francisco Scooter Centre posts!

Genuine’s G400c
The San Francisco Scooter Centre

Dream Bike: 1978 Triumph Bonneville

This is a blog I did for CSC a year or so ago, and it’s one I thought I would run again here.   We haven’t done a Dream Bikes blog in a while, and it’s time.


It’s raining, it’s cold here in southern California, and those two conditions are enough to keep me indoors today. I’ve been straightening things up here in the home office, and I came across a Triumph brochure from 1978. I bought a new Bonneville that year and as I type this, I realize that was a cool 40 years ago. Wowee. Surprisingly, the brochure scanned well, so much so that even the fine print is still readable…

Triumph had two 750 twins back then. One was the twin-carb Bonneville, and the other was the single-carb model (I think they called it the Tiger). The Bonneville came in brown or black and the Tiger came in blue or red (you can see the color palette in the third photo above). I liked the red and my dealer (in Fort Worth) swapped the tank from a Tiger onto my Bonneville. I loved that bike, and I covered a lot of miles in Texas on it. I used to ride with a friend and fellow engineer at General Dynamics named Sam back in the F-16 days (he had a Yamaha 500cc TT model, which was another outstanding bike back in the day). I wish I still had that Bonneville.

After I sold the Bonneville, I turned right around and bought a ’79 Electra-Glide Classic. There’s a brochure buried around here somewhere on that one, and if I come across it I’ll see how it scans. The Harley had a lot of issues, but it’s another one I enjoyed owning and riding, and it’s another I wish I still owned.


So there you have it.   That ’78 Bonneville is a bike I still have dreams about, and they were made all the more poignant by the Royal Enfield Interceptor I rode in Baja last month.  You can read about the Enfield Interceptor and our Baja adventures here.

Want to read more pieces like this?  Check out our other Dream Bikes here!

Genuine’s G400c and more…

I was up in San Francisco a week or so ago and I stopped by good buddy Barry’s San Francisco Scooter Centre for two reasons:  To say hello to Barry, and to check out the new Genuine G400c motorcycle.   It’s the bike manufactured by Shineray (in Chongqing, China), and I had seen two versions of it when I rode across China on an RX3 nearly three years go.

Brand new Genuine G400c motorcycles in good buddy Barry’s San Francisco Scooter Centre.
The new Genuine’s pricing in the San Francisco Scooter Centre. Like other Asian and Indian bikes from Royal Enfield, CSC, and BMW, the price is seriously lower than others on the market from the Big 4 and Europe. Unlike many other dealers, the San Francisco Scooter Centre’s setup, documentation, and freight charges are honest and reasonable.

I didn’t have the time or the gear to ride the Genuine G400c last week, but Barry said he wants me to try the new machine and he offered a ride.   I’m going to do that later this month, and I’ll tell you more about the bike when I do.

The products available to us as motorcyclists sure are changing, and there’s no doubt the imports from China and India are rocking our world.   Gresh and I have a bit of experience on Zongshen’s RX3, RX4, and TT250 (made in China and imported by CSC).   I’ve had some seat time on the new BMW 310 made in India.   Joe and I recently completed a week-long adventure in Baja riding the Royal Enfield 500cc Bullet and their new 650cc Interceptor (both made in India).  I don’t have any time yet on Harley’s 500cc and 750cc v-twin cruisers (also made in India), but I’m working on correcting that character flaw.   There’s an old proverb that says “may you live in interesting times.”  We certainly are.

Hey, more good news:  I finally received my printed copies of Destinations, and my story on Kitt Peak National Observatory is in the next issue of Motorcycle Classics magazine.   You can see all of the Destinations pieces (and get your very own copy) right here.  Good buddy Mike did.  Mike and I graduated junior high school and high school together back in the day (as in 50 years ago), and we still talk to each other a couple of times each month.  Good friends and good times!

Good buddy Mike, who knows a good thing when he sees it!

Aerodynamics, Roman baths, and the See Ya

Shortly after we passed this Alfa See Ya motorhome, we stopped at a rest area along Interstate 5. The coach pulled in behind us.

I was driving south on Interstate 5 this weekend, enjoying the Subaru and the wildflowers, and feeling good about the zillions of bugs splattering on the Subie’s windshield instead of me (as they had been doing with a vengeance when Gresh and I were in Baja on the Enfields the prior week). Various thoughts floated through my mind, one of them being that we had not done a “Back in the Day” blog in a while.  That concept was Gresh’s…a series of blogs about past jobs, experiences, and…well, you get the idea. That thought drifted around in my noggin while we passed a long string of trucks and motorhomes, and Susie suddenly said “Look, Joe, an Alfa!”

Sure enough, it was an Alfa Leisure 36-foot, diesel pusher motorhome…the See Ya model, to be exact. If you’re wondering why this was a source of wonderment for both Susie and yours truly, it’s because I used to run the plant that manufactured that magnificent RV.  That was almost 20 years ago.

Yep, I was the Operations Director for Alfa Leisure. It was one of the best jobs I ever had, and I worked for one of the smartest guys I’ve ever known. That would be Johnnie Crean, and I’ll get to him in a minute. Well, maybe less than a minute, because I’ll tell you about the motorhome first, and I can’t do that without touching on Johnnie’s genius.

The See Ya was a watershed product, and that was because it was one hell of a deal. Let me start by putting it this way…the See Ya’s MSRP was $184,600, but the thing was so good and demand was so high the dealers were tacking on more than $20K over list price and we still couldn’t build them fast enough.  That’s because the See Ya was way better than the competition.

Johnnie did a lot of cool things. He put the air conditioner underneath the chassis, which allowed a higher ceiling inside the coach while still meeting Big Gubmint’s max height requirement for road vehicles. That may not sound significant, but that one feature alone sold a lot of motorhomes for Alfa. On any dealer’s lot you could go into any other motorhome and with their low ceilings they always felt cramped. You see, they all had their air conditioners on the roof, which forced them to make the ceiling lower. Walk into an Alfa, though, and it felt like you were in your house. The difference was immediate and obvious, and it was all Johnnie.  And just to rub salt in that marketing wound, Johnnie put a ceiling fan in the See Ya.  You know, a Casa Blanca, like you might have in your family room.

Next up was the color palette. For the exterior, you could have any color you wanted, as long as it was white. Johnnie realized that folks spend their time inside the motorhome, and they really didn’t care what the exterior color was. That little deal right there was a $10,000 price advantage.  Another cool color advantage: Alfa only offered two interior carpeting colors (light tan and dark blue) and two cabinet color choices (light oak and dark walnut).  We built the light tan carpeteted, light oak configuration almost exclusively. Johnnie knew that women preferred those colors (men preferred the darker colors), but the purchase decision was almost always made by wives, not by husbands.

One morning, Johnnie popped into my office early in the morning.  “Put a spoiler on the coach,” he said, and with that, he turned to leave.

“A spoiler?” I asked. Johnnie always drove either a Porsche or a Bentley, but mostly the Porsche, and he owned a couple of race cars. I kind of assumed he was talking about a whale tail spoiler like his Turbo 911 had, but I didn’t know.

“A chin spoiler,” he said, showing through body language and tone that he was thinking I wasn’t the sharpest knife in the drawer.

“A chin spoiler?” I asked. “That will take a few weeks, you know, to talk to the guy who makes the front fiberglass for us…”

“No, no, no…” Johnnie answered, frustrated by my inability to visualize what he had in mind. “Just cut a spoiler out of plywood and mount it under the nose with angle iron.  Make it stick out about a foot.” He was drawing pictures in the air with his hands, tracing an imaginary arc in front of an imaginary coach. “Just tell your guys what I want. They’ll understand.”

So I went to our R&D shop, told the guys what I thought I wanted (Johnnie was right; they got it immediately), and 90 minutes later they were bolting a chin spoiler to the lower front face of a 36-ft diesel pusher motorhome. I thought it was an absurd idea, until I took that coach out on the freeway moments later. It felt like it was glued to the highway. Planted. Solid. Where before being passed by an 18-wheeler turned the See Ya into an E-ticket Disney ride, the coach now felt stable and absolutely unfazed when passing (or being passed by) a semi. I took it on the overpass from the northbound I-15 to the westbound I-10 (one of those high-in-the-sky elevated roadways where the winds were always severe) as an acid test, and I was convinced: The guy was a genius. The See Ya’s handling was dramatically better.

Another time, Johnnie came into my office and without sitting down, he told me he had just read a book about ancient Roman baths and he wanted to do the same in the See Ya.

“A Roman bath?” I said.

“No, no, no,” he answered. I didn’t know what Johnnie was talking about, but I knew it would be revealed soon. The trick was to dope out what the guy had in mind without appearing to be too slow. Sometimes I succeeded. This wasn’t going to be one of them.

“They heated their marble floors with hot springs, you know, geothermal stuff. It kept the floors warm so they didn’t get cold feet,” Johnnie explained, and again, the body language and tonality hinted that he felt like he was talking to a 5-year-old.

“You want me to park the coach over a hot spring?” (I can be kind of slow at times, people tell me.)

Johnnie just looked at me. Then he started drawing pictures in the air with his hands. “There’s hot water coming out of the engine, going to the radiator. Route that hot water through a zig zag pipe under the tile floors down the main hallway in the coach. Like a coil.” He was making zig zag motions in the air, that big gold Breitling watch flashing in front of me as he did so. I got it, finally.  Son of a gun, the Roman bath idea worked. My guys had a prototype mocked up in a day, and the tile floor was satisfyingly toasty. Maybe it doesn’t seem like a big deal to you, but trust me on this, it was. Try walking down the aisle of a motorhome with a tile floor in the winter in your bare feet. There isn’t much under that tile. It gets pretty cold. But not in an Alfa. It was a brilliant idea.

I could go on and on because I have lots of Johnnie stories like that. Those were some of the best days of my working life. Yeah, Johnnie’s a character, but damn, he came up with some amazing things.  I think I learned more working there then I learned anywhere else, and building motorhomes was a lot of fun.  They were like the Battlestar Galactica, huge moving things with features galore.   When I started at Alfa, at the start of the See Ya production run, we were building one coach a week.  When I left a couple of years later, we were building 10 coaches a week.  Good times those were, back in the day.

Garelli!

At one time I owned a 1973 BMW R75/5 motorcycle. I traded 1300 dollars and a 1957 small-window VW van for the BMW. The good points about the bike were the suspension and the weight. For a 750cc the bike was lightweight and the thing had plenty of fork travel so it worked pretty good off road. The bad part was the charging system. I never could get the damn thing to electric start due to the battery being low. At the time I tried everything I knew to fix it but the little red discharge light was on constantly.

But this story isn’t about the BMW because I soon lost my driver’s license by wheeling and speeding around Florida on the German motorcycle. (It would do 110 MPH!) Maybe that’s the root of my animosity towards the brand. It had a bizarre ignition key to boot.

A year or two earlier Florida had changed the description of a moped and you no longer needed a driver’s license to operate one. I still had to travel 10 miles to my job at the JC Penny auto store so my mom drove me to the Garelli dealer on 49th street and I picked up their loss leader, Plain Jane Garelli moped for 399 dollars.

With no speedo and painted fenders the red Garelli was a study in thrift. It got 80 miles to a pre-mix gallon flat out at 30 miles per hour. Helmets weren’t required on a moped so I didn’t wear one. I wore a ball cap turned backwards.

My route to work changed to avoid busy roads. I crossed railroad trestles and scrambled behind Hialeah Speedway cutting across parking lots and running down alleys being chased by the exact same dog each day. The ride to work became an adventure and I learned to wheelie the Garelli for long distances. The moped’s lights were not exactly powerful but they always worked and the ride home at night kept the thrill going.

In the rearmost section of the luggage rack was a tin box containing the Garelli’s tool kit. The tool set was a spark plug socket and a couple wrenches of the cheapest thin steel so I used a letter punch to stamp ‘Snap-On” into the factory tools. This got huge laughs whenever I dragged the kit out to do what little maintenance the Garelli needed.

I rode the Garelli for three months and even after my license was reinstated I kept riding the moped for a while to save my driver’s license for a big cross-country trip my buddies and me had planned. I finally sold the bike for 300 dollars to an old man who could barely pedal the thing fast enough to get it started.

I hope to be that old man some day.

18 again!

Gresh left New Mexico headed for Los Angeles early this morning. What’s that white stuff?

Imagine you’re an old fart like Gresh and suddenly you could be again 18 years old again.  That’s kind of what happened to me just a short while ago.  Now, old Joe Gresh, he’s inbound from the Sacramento Mountains (don’t let the name fool you) in New Mexico, the Tinfiny Ranch, headed here.   The guy wanted to make the drive in one day in order to be staged for our run into Baja tomorrow.  Hey, that’s okay.  It’s going to be warmer where we’re going.

Anyway, back to that 18-years-old-thing again.   That’s what I want to be.  18 years old.  And while I’m dreaming, throw in a new 1966 650cc, made-in-England, Triumph Bonneville, but let’s add electric start, six speeds, disc brakes, and a flawless finish.  That’s my dream.

Only it’s not a dream. That’s where I am right now.

The bike is a new Royal Enfield Interceptor.  It’s a 650.  The styling is perfect, right down to the big tach and speedo that almost say “Smiths” (if I have to explain that, you wouldn’t understand).  It’s made in India instead of England (hey, the current Triumph Bonnevilles are made in Thailand).   My take?  This new motorcycle has out-Triumphed Triumph in being more faithful to the original layout, displacement, and feel of the ’66 Bonneville I’ve lusted after for years.   But with lots more refinement.

A brand new Royal Enfield 650 Interceptor in my driveway. It’s my ride for the next 10 days or so.
For my good buddy Orlando: See, it’s orange…the fastest color!
You can almost see where it says Smiths.  This, folks, is what motorcycle instruments should look like!

Want to read another strong statement?  On my 25-mile ride home from So Cal Moto in Brea, where I picked up the Royal Enfield, I decided I’m going to buy one.   Oh, I’ll find some nits to pick over the next 2000 BajaBound miles and I’ll share them with you here, but this bike answers the mail.   And the price?  Well, a new Triumph Bonneville cost $1320 in 1966.  I know, because my Dad bought one.  A new Royal Enfield is $5799, I think.  If you take that 1966 $1320 figure and adjust it for inflation to 2019, it comes out to $10,298.   Buy a new Enfield 650 and you’ve already saved $4500.  That’s the argument I’m going to use with She Who Must Be Obeyed.  I think it will work, too.

I’m going to break our rule and post more than one blog today.  We are living in exciting times, my friends, and I can’t wait to share the excitement with you.   The 500cc Bullet is about 45 minutes out (it’s being delivered from the RE dealer in Glendale) and I’ll post an update about that later today, too!

I can’t wait to get on the road tomorrow.

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