Category: Motorcycle Adventure Ride

Minimizing Travel Expenses: Three Significant Factors

By Bobbie Surber

Since I usually travel 50 percent of the year, I am frequently asked if I have an endless income stream or receive payments from dubious sources to afford this lifestyle.  The answer is no to both. Many people need help understanding that traveling can be as cheap or cheaper as living your normal day-to-day life.  This is especially true once choosing to travel outside the United States of America.  This blog will cover the three most significant factors that keep expenses to a minimum: airfare, lodging, and packing. Before going any further on this topic, I will provide this disclaimer: If you like luxury travel, skip this blog post! To travel successfully and feel the true heartbeat of any location requires you to be one with the locals and travel very modestly.

Airfare

I’ve tried many search engines over the years and found Google Flights the best. Learn the basics, and if you use Chrome, add Chrome Extensions, as this will give you average leg distance for each flight.

Some general rules follow.

Book in advance. Generally, the earlier you book your tickets, the cheaper they will be. Booking at least 2-3 months in advance can help you find better deals.

Avoid peak travel times. For example, consider traveling in the spring and fall if your destination is Europe. Prices will be 30-70% less, and you benefit from fewer tourists than in the busy and often hot summer months.

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If traveling from the USA to Europe, don’t be focused on your final destination; instead, look into the least expensive port to fly into. Once in Europe, you can take an inexpensive local airline to your final destination. I often fly into Madrid, Spain, Frankfort, Germany, and Paris, France, spend a day sightseeing or revisiting favorite haunts, then the next day or two, I fly to my final destination. Ryan Air, Vueling, Easy Jet are the three I fly the most often.

Be flexible with your travel dates. If you have some flexibility in your travel dates, you can compare prices across different days and choose the cheapest option. Google Flights calendar will let you see the prices daily, allowing you to modify the departure and return date for the most significant savings. Pop-up suggestions from Google will give you different dates and/or a less expensive nearby airport.

Consider alternative airports. Flying in and out of smaller or alternative airports is often cheaper than flying into major airports. I live in Sedona, Arizona, and my saved airports are Phoenix, AZ, Tucson, AZ, Albuquerque, NM, and Las Vegas, NV. I have often found tickets that are hundreds of dollars less leaving out of LAX as well.

Sign up for airline newsletters. Airlines often send out promotions and discounts to their email subscribers, so signing up for their newsletters can be an excellent way to stay informed.

Use reward points or miles. If you have reward points or miles from a frequent flyer program, you can use them to offset the cost of your ticket. Also, get an Airline credit card that pays you in travel miles and awards for everyday purchases.

Lodging

If traveling alone, consider staying in a hostel. Many have private rooms that are less expensive than a hotel. Especially in Europe and Asia, hostels are for more than just the youth. You can easily filter out hostels that cater to the party crowd.

Consider alternative accommodation options. Instead of booking a traditional hotel room, be open to alternative options such as vacation rentals, Home Exchange, Couch Surfing, or Bed and Breakfasts. These can often be cheaper and offer a unique experience. My favorite booking sites are Booking.com, HostelWorld.com, And Airbnb. When in Europe, I like Momondo.com

Avoid staying in tourist neighborhoods. Often, I can save 50% by selecting lodging a short walk away from the tourist areas with the added benefit of seeing and interacting with more locals.

Book in advance.  Like airline tickets, booking your hotel can help you find better deals. Hotels often offer discounts for early bookings. A disclaimer, If you want a more extended trip, don’t box yourself in by booking every portion of your travels; consider booking the first three nights when possible. This will allow you to adjust your itinerary and avoid cancelation fees.

Sign up for hotel loyalty programs. Many hotel chains offer loyalty programs that can provide you with discounts, free upgrades, and other perks.

Travel during off-peak times. Like airline tickets, traveling during off-peak times can often result in lower hotel prices.

Use credit card rewards. Some credit cards offer rewards points or cashback for hotel bookings. Check to see if your credit card has any rewards programs that can be used for hotels.

Negotiate directly with the hotel. Try negotiating the price if you book a hotel room. Sometimes hotels will be willing to offer a discount if you ask.

Packing: Why It’s Crucial 

Packing lightly for travel is a great way to save time, money and reduce stress. You will also avoid paying check-in luggage fees, avoid lost luggage, and have far more freedom to choose buses and trains for transportation rather than expensive taxis.

Here are a few strategies that I find helpful.

Make a packing list. Before you start packing, list all the items you must bring. This will help you avoid overpacking and ensure that you remember everything necessary.

Choose the right luggage. Use a lightweight, durable suitcase or backpack that is the appropriate size for your trip. A smaller bag will encourage you to pack less and help you avoid excess baggage fees. Consider using a small daypack or travel backpack that will fit under your seat and avoid the struggles of pushing luggage with wheels on a city’s cobblestone street.

Pack versatile clothing. Choose items that can be mixed and matched to create different outfits. Stick to neutral colors and avoid bulky items that take up much space. I pack only neutrals and then add one or two colorful scarves to add interest to my limited wardrobe.

Use packing cubes. Packing cubes can help you organize your belongings and maximize space in your luggage. They also make it easier to find what you need without unpacking everything.

Limit toiletries. Instead of bringing full-size toiletries, opt for travel-sized items or only the essentials. You can always buy more toiletries at your destination if you run out.

Wear your bulkiest items. If you need bulky items such as a jacket or boots, wear them during travel to free up space in your luggage.

Avoid packing “just in case” items: Avoid packing items you might not need. Be realistic about what you will use during your trip.

Assemble your luggage/backpack several days in advance and critically look at what you can leave behind.

If you are like me and would rather spend your money on experiences instead of expensive airfare, lodging, and overpacking remember to be flexible and open yourself up to the experience of being a local rather than a tourist. Study up on airfare and lodging costs to better locate deals. Most importantly, get out there and travel!

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Live on Amazon!

A Cup O’ Joes is available now on Amazon.  Every bathroom in every motorcycle shop and every motorcyclist’s home needs this book.  They make great gifts.  Check out the blurb:

Joe Gresh and Joe Berk bring you a collection of their favorite articles and stories from the ExhaustNotes.us website, Motorcycle Classics magazine, Rider magazine, Motorcyclist magazine, ADVMoto magazine, and other publications.  Ride with the Joes in China, Colombia, Mexico, New Zealand, Canada, the former Soviet Union, and the United States.  Read their opinions on motorcycles, accessories, and more.  Humor, wit, insight, and great reading…this collection of motoliterature belongs in your library.  Published in black and white.

You could wait for the movie, but the movie deal fell through.  You know the story…I wanted Leonardo di Caprio to play me or Gresh, the studio countered with Danny DeVito, and things fell apart after that.

Seriously, though, you need this book.  It will make you taller, skinnier, more attractive, and a faster rider.  Trust us on this.

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A Cup O’ Joes

By Joe Berk

Marcus, good buddy…we owe ya, Dude!

A Cup O’ Joes: I loved that title the moment I saw it and I knew it would be the winner, and Gresh and I felt the same way even after all the other suggestions arrived.  We thank you all for your ideas.  Marcus, we especially thank you.

The book is just about done.  Good buddy Jack Lewis wrote a killer Foreword, we just finished the front and rear cover (that’s what you see above), and we’re feeling good about this.  We’re going to take one more swing through before we hit publish, and then you’ll be able to order A Cup O’ Joes directly from Amazon.  The Kindle e-version will follow shortly thereafter.

Marcus, we’re going to send a signed copy to you.  Give us a little while.  I have to get a copy, sign it, USPS it to Gresh, he’ll sign it, and then it will be on its way to you.  Thanks again.

A Cup O’ Joes.  I love it.

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The Wayback Machine: Indiana Jones in Liqian

By Joe Berk
Yes, it really was like that. Somewhere along the Silk Road (the actual Silk Road) in China. I parked my RX3 when I saw the double rainbow, thinking someday I might use the shot in a blog about this adventure.

Almost 40 years ago, I saw my first Indiana Jones movie and it affected me profoundly.  I started traveling the world stumbling upon lost empires. Things that have been swallowed by time, as they say.  My motorcycle ride through Colombia had some of that.  The Baja adventures have a bit of it, too.  But none of the rides had more of an Indiana Jones flavor than did the ride across China.  That ride was three years ago this month, and I still think about it every day.  There were several things we saw in China that would have been right at home in an Indiana Jones movie.  One was Liqian.   I can best tell you about it with an excerpt from Riding China, the story of the ride with Joe Gresh across the Ancient Kingdom.

Gobi Gresh, aka Arjiu, stopping to smell the sunflowers in China.

The ride in the morning was just like yesterday. We rode the Silk Road at high speed, making great time in magnificent weather. I knew we were going to Wuwei (you could have a lot of fun with that name; it’s pronounced “woo wee”), but that was really all I knew about that day as we started out that morning. Boy, would this day ever be an interesting one!

It was to be a very full day, and Wuwei would be another one of those cities of several million people that seem to pop up in China every 50 to 100 miles. It was a huge city I had never heard of. China is an amazing place, and I was going to learn today it is more amazing than I could have imagined, and for a reason I would have never guessed. I’ve mentioned Indiana Jones movies a lot in this book. Today, we came upon something that could easily be…well, read on. This is going to be good.

After riding for a couple of hours, we left the freeway and entered a city called Yongchang. It seemed to be pretty much a regular Chinese city until we stopped. I needed to find a bathroom and Wong helped me. Wong is a big, imposing guy. He’s a corrections officer supervisor in Xi’an. He has a friendly look, but he can turn that off in a New York minute and become an extremely imposing figure. I saw him do that once on this trip, and I’ll tell you about that episode when we get to it.

Corrections Officer Supervisor Wong. He looks like a mischievous guy. This guy’s command presence was amazing. I saw him stop a car just by looking at it. Here, he’s enjoying the attention in Yongchang.

Anyway, I followed Wong through a couple of alleys and businesses until we came to an empty restaurant (it was mid-morning, and it had no customers). Wong spoke to the lady there, she nodded her head and smiled at me, and pointed to the bathroom. When I rejoined the guys back on the street, several women at a tailor shop (we had coincidentally stopped in front of a tailor shop) were fussing over Wong. He needed a button sewn on his jacket and it was obvious they were flirting with him. Wong seemed to be enjoying it. Like I said, Wong is a big guy, and I guess you could say he’s good looking. I think the women who were sewing his button on were thinking the same thing.

Beautiful young Chinese ladies. Mostly Chinese, anyway.  The one on the left is entering my phone number in her contacts list.

Three teenage girls approached us and wanted to know about our bikes. Like many young Chinese, they spoke English (in China, you learn English as a second language in grade school; it is a strong advantage in Chinese society if you can speak English well). They wanted to practice with us. It was the routine stuff (“how are you?” “hello,” and things like that) until one of the teenaged girls looked directly at me and asked, “Can I have your phone number?” Gresh and I both had a good laugh over that. I actually gave her my phone number and she carefully entered it into her phone (and no, she hasn’t called me yet).

I was enjoying all of this immensely, taking photos of the girls, the seamstresses flirting with Wong, and the rest of China all around me. There was something different about one of those teenage girls. I couldn’t quite recognize what it was, but to me she definitely looked, well, different.

Yongchang statues. They don’t look as Chinese as you might think they should. There’s a reason for that.

It was at about that time that Sean approached me and said, “Dajiu, do you see those three statues over there?” He pointed to three tall statues that faced us, perhaps 300 yards away. I nodded yes. “If you look at their faces, you will see that they have Roman features.” Truth be told, I couldn’t really see it in the statues because they were too far away, but I grabbed a photo and later, on my computer, I could see something different. But before I looked at the photo, it all clicked for me. That’s what had my attention with that girl. We were literally in the middle of China and she didn’t look as Chinese as her two friends. She looked different.

All right, my friends, I need to go tangential here for a minute or two and share this story with you. Hang on, because this is real Indiana Jones stuff. No, scratch that. I’ve never seen an Indiana Jones movie with a story line this good (and I’ve seen all of them).

More than 2,000 years ago, before the birth of Christ, the two most powerful empires on the planet were the Roman Empire and the Han Dynasty. These two superpowers of their time enjoyed a brisk trade relationship along the Silk Road. Yep, the very same trail we had been riding for the last few days. Between them (in what became Iran and its surrounding regions) lay a smaller empire called Parthia. For reasons only the Romans understood, Rome thought it would be a good idea to attack Parthia. They sent several Roman Legions to war (and to put this in perspective, a Roman Legion consisted of about 5,000 men). To everyone’s surprise (including, I would imagine, the Romans), the Parthians kicked Rome’s butt.

Wow, imagine that. Rome, defeated on the field of battle by the much smaller Parthian Empire. To put it mildly, things did not quite go the way the Romans thought they would.

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All of this severely disrupted trade between the Han Dynasty and the Romans, and nobody liked that. “Why the hell did you do that?” the Han Dynasty asked Rome. “We had a good thing going and you screwed it up.”  At least that’s what I’m guessing the conversation went like.  You get the idea.

Cooler minds prevailed and the Romans  realized, yeah, that was a dumb move.  The Romans told the Parthians, hey, it’s over, let’s be friends again. The war ended, the Chinese were happy, the Romans were happy, the Parthians were happy, and trade resumed. All’s well that ends well.

Well, sort of. There was still that matter of those pesky Roman legions that had invaded Parthia. They didn’t come back from that war, and for two thousand years, no one knew what happened to them. The Romans probably assumed their Legionnaires had all been slaughtered.  No one knew until an Australian dude and a Chinese guy, both University archeologist types (starting to sound a little like Indiana Jones yet?) put a theory together in 1957. Hmmm, maybe those Romans had not been killed after all.

The Parthians, being bright enough to defeat the Romans, were not about to let the Legionnaires go home and perhaps attack them again in some future war. They didn’t want to kill the Romans, either. I guess they were kinder, gentler Parthians.  Here’s where those two Aussie and Chinese archeologists enter the picture. They hypothesized that the Parthians told the errant Legionnaires, “Look, we don’t want to kill all you guys, but there’s no way we’re going to let you go back to Rome. And there’s no room for you here, either. Your only option is to keep heading east. Go to China. Maybe you crazy warmongering Italians will find nice Chinese girls and settle down.”   With that, and as one might imagine, a hearty arrivederci, the Romans continued their eastward march straight into the middle of China.

And folks, the prevailing wisdom today is that is exactly what happened (although the prevailing wisdom evidently hasn’t prevailed very far, as I had never heard the story until that morning in Yongchang). In fact, prior to this theory surfacing, folks wondered why the Chinese referred to the area around Yongchang as Liqian. That’s not a Chinese word, and it’s unlike the name of any other Chinese town.  The folks who know about these things tell me it is an unusual word in the Chinese language.

Liqian is  pronounced “Lee Chee On.”

Get it yet?

Lee Chee On? Liqian?

Doesn’t it sound like “legion?” As in Roman legion?

A Chinese man in Liqian. This guy could be the Marlboro Man for a Chinese cigarette company!

I found all of this fascinating. I saw more than a few people around the Liqian area that had a distinct western appearance, and they all consented to my taking their photos when I asked. They recognize just how special their story is. The Chinese government is taking note of this area, too. They are developing a large theme park just outside of Yongchang with a Roman motif. We visited that theme park, and while we were there, Sergeant Zuo gave a book to me (printed in both English and Chinese) about the place. It is one of the two books I brought back from China, and that book is now one of my most prized possessions.

Imagine that:  Roman legions, resettled in the middle of China, in a town called Liqian.  And I rode there.  On an RX3.

That photo at the top of this blog?  All the gear, all the time?

Nah, it was nothing like that.  One of the Zongshen guys had this idea about making a movie with a Roman Empire theme (you know, being as we were in Liqian and all that), and he bought along gladiator costumes. I’m not sure what Gresh and I were thinking (we’re not normally into gladiator movies) but we let those guys talk us into putting the costumes on and taking a few pics and videos.  I guess you had to be there to understand it; it was all in the spirit of the ride.

Watch for our next Indiana Jones episode in China.  It’s about the lost Buddhist grottos at Mo Gao in the Gobi Desert.  There’s more good stuff coming your way.  Stay tuned!

Want to read more about the ride across China?  Pick up a copy of Riding China!

Moss Landing Moto Art

By Joe Berk

If you’re on the Pacific Coast Highway and you’re riding through the little fishing village of Moss Landing, it’s nearly impossible to miss the moto art at the J&S Eagle Iron and Leather Shop, although that’s exactly what I did on a trek north a few years (no doubt because it was raining so hard).  On the way back, though, the sun was out and I when I saw these I knew I had to stop for a few photos.  I shot these photos about 5 years ago and I don’t know if these moto sculptures are still there.   It might be worth a ride to check it out.

Ernie Buck, the store manager, told me these gigantic bike sculptures are Hecho en Mexico and go for about $20K each.   I guess that’s not that far-fetched considering what a new Harley or BMW costs these days, and these things are easily three times the size of those bikes.

The first moto gigante was constructed mostly of license plates.  Bear in mind that all three of these sculptures use giant tractor tires (that will give you a sense of their size).  Like I said above, they’re huge!

The next one  was fabricated from horseshoes.   Horseshoes!  Imagine that!   Where do artists get their ideas?

It was cool.  I liked the gangster whitewalls.  I had a set of those on my ’92 Softail.    You know, the top of those tires was about the same height as me!

The third bike was fabricated almost entirely of shovels.

Maybe the bike above is a Shovelhead (you know, the one that came after the Panhead).  It was cool.

You know, the bikes above make for interesting displays, but I wondered where I would put such a thing if I owned it.  You’d need a huge lawn or a spacious home in which to display this kind of art, and even then, I’m pretty sure Sue would have none of it.  They sure were interesting and they made for cool photos.

The Pacific Coast Highway is an amazing road and it’s always been one of my favorite rides.

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The War Wagon in Baja

By Joe Berk

I’ve traveled extensively in Baja and I want to get down there again as soon as possible.  It’s the best riding on the planet, the food is amazing, the scenery is incredible, and the people are great.  The whale watching is a religious experience.  I know Baja is almost indescribably awesome and you do, too, if you’ve been there.  When I talk about Baja with folks who haven’t been there, though, the question always emerges:  Is it safe?

The short answer is yes.   But one time, we came pretty close to it not being safe.  On one trip out of many over the last 30+ years in Baja, Susie and I had a bad experience.   I almost didn’t write this blog because I didn’t want to scare anyone away from Baja.  I’ve been to Baja many times since, and I plan to keep visiting Baja.

The best bike for Baja…my CSC RX3 on the malecon in Loreto, BCS.

So, with that as an introduction, let me add a bit more.  I was setting up the first CSC Baja expedition, with the idea being that we would offer free tours to Baja with the purchase of a CSC motorcycle.  That idea worked fabulously well and we successfully ran the CSC tours for years, treating people to the ride of their life, selling a lot of motorcycles, and generally having an inordinate amount of fun.  It convinced me that the RX3 motorcycle was possibly the best bike ever for exploring Baja, and I still feel that way.  You may disagree, but hey, it’s okay to be wrong.

But I digress.  To get back on topic, I hadn’t been to Baja in a while and I was taking a big group down, so Susie and I rolled south in my Subie on a pre-ride scouting expedition.  With the intro stuff done, here’s the blog I wrote for CSC on that trip.

Susie and I are down in Baja scouting the locations for the Inaugural Baja run, and it sure has been an interesting two days. I didn’t have any Internet access in Catavina yesterday, but I have a spotty connection in Santa Rosalia tonight, right on the Sea of Cortez, and we’ll see how much of this gets through.

First, a few quick photos of our first couple of stops…

Rolling across the US border into Mexico…
Jesus, a giant statue on the way to Ensenada.
Breakfast in Velero’s in Ensenada…worth the trip into Mexico all by itself!
The Blue Pearl, on the beach…

After we rolled through Ensenada, it was on through the mountains south and Baja’s agricultural district. Boy oh boy, did we have an adventure.  All that stuff I’ve been telling you about how safe it is down here? Well, I still believe it, but my confidence (and Susie’s) was sorely tested yesterday.  See that guy in the photo below? FYI, you’re not supposed to take photos at these roadblocks, and I want you to keep that in mind on our CSC Baja trip…but I never have done too well following rules.  I’m talking about the infantryman talking to the car in front of us at our first military roadblock (one of many Puesto Militars) on the way down. He’s the dude standing to the left of the white car.

Mr. “Okay, go ahead…”

Well, things got very interesting after that. That photo was about 175 miles south of the border, just north of San Quintin, where we got caught in a mini-labor riot. Turns out the migrant workers down here are not happy with their wages on the farms. A lot of them come from mainland Mexico with their families, including their kids, whom they evidently put to work picking whatever crops they pick in the fields north of San Quintin. The Mexican government is clamping down on child labor, so that affects these people and they are plenty angry about it. Real angry, apparently.

One of the military checkpoint guys told us the road was closed (that dude in the photo above) about 80 km ahead but he didn’t speak English and he didn’t tell us why. I thought it was because they were working on the road, which happens frequently in Baja, and when that happens the road is closed for about 20 minutes. Then you can proceed. Happens all the time. Amazingly (based on what we found out a few miles down the road) that young soldier let the car in front of us proceed, and then he let us proceed.

About 30 miles later, we started seeing what we thought were small piles of asphalt on the road with lots of wires (you know, like for fixing potholes, which they have a lot of in Baja, but I couldn’t figure out what the wires were). We saw this for about the next 15 miles. We saw hundreds of people milling around, too; far more than I’ve ever seen in these little farming towns.

It turns out that we what thought were piles of asphalt were actually the remains of burning tires. As in “let’s light a fire and shut the main highway down burning tires.” The ag workers have been having demonstrations (actually, labor riots) in the San Quintin area, and we found out (the hard way) that this had been going on for 2 days.

We went a few more miles and encountered a roadblock (more burning tire remnants and boulders blocking the road) with about 50 men milling about who immediately surrounded us. They wouldn’t let us go forward or turn around. One of them threatened us and the Subaru with a 2×4. They were all over the car. Susie had the presence of mind to lock the doors. These guys were mad at the world, and we were the world at that instant. I didn’t know what to do, so I fell back on what always seemed to work elsewhere in the world: I asked the guy who seemed to be in charge if I could pay the toll to get through. He seemed genuinely surprised at that, he thought about it for maybe 5 seconds (duly observed by his subordinate seditionists), and then he realized this might be a viable alternative income stream (Sue designs and manages automated toll roads in the US; it seems to work for us). Our Mexican revolutionary said, “hokay,” I gave him a ten dollar bill, and he told the insurrectionists “let them pass.” Crisis averted. Whew!

The tire remnants continued for another 5 miles, but there were no more roadblocks. While we were stopped at the impromptu toll plaza, one of the seditionists keyed my car door on Susie’s side with initials, presumably the initials of their labor movement (LPS or something like that). I’ll guess I’ll get my body shop guy to repaint it when I get home. That little Subie is going to end up having more bodywork than Joan Rivers. A couple of months ago I dropped one of the RX3s into it. This week it was the Nuevo Mexican Revolution. I’m keeping the body shop business alive in California. Or maybe not. I might leave those initials there as a war wound. At the very minimum, I am re-christening the Subie. She’s no longer the Starship Subaru (sorry, Carl, that was a good moniker, but its time has come and gone). My car is now known as the War Wagon.

We found out from a busload of people in El Rosario (next town down the before getting into the mountains) that they expect the demonstrations to continue for a couple more days and then it should be over. One guy had his windows shattered, probably by the same guy we saw with the 2×4.

Folks, all the tourists down here (and there are lots of us) were talking about this. No one had ever experienced anything like it before, and most of us have been coming down here for decades. It’s a blip, and I’m guessing it is already over.  It sure was exciting, though.

We continued south after that… and that meant it was time for a few more photos.

Mama Espinosa’s in El Rosario…great burritos!
Cardon cactus in the Vizcaino Desert

At one point on our way to Guerrero Negro, I spotted several vultures fighting over a dead rabbit. Time to put the 70-300 on the Nikon and see how close I could get.

The Baja Department of Sanitation hard at work.

When you roll into Guerrero Negro, there’s a giant Mexican flag flying in front of a giant metal structure (an artist’s interpretation of the Mexican Eagle). You’re not supposed to take pictures here (it’s a military installation), but I still had the 300mm lens on the camera and I got sneaky.

The largest flag I’ve ever seen.

That point is right on the 28th Parallel, which marks the border between Baja and Baja Sur (the two Mexican states in Baja).

You know, being anywhere near the 28th Parallel and not stopping for a fish taco or two at Tony’s would be a crime. I’ve been stopping at his truck for the last 21 years…every time I come down here. What’s cool about it is Tony always recognizes me, even though sometimes it’s a year or more since I’ve seen him!

The best fish tacos in the world!
My good buddy Tony Lopez, who is a fish taco chef extraordinaire!

Tony told me he’s been in business for 22 years. I bought my first fish taco from him 21 years ago.

We stopped in San Ignacio next and I grabbed a couple of photos of (and in) the mission there.

The San Ignacio Mission, built by the Jesuits in the 1700s…it’s still in use as a working church
Flowers inside the Mission
One of the figures inside the San Ignacio Mission

That’s it for tonight, my friends. Time to sign off and get some shuteye. We’re headed south again tomorrow. Watch for more photos!

So there you have it.   With more than three decades of exploring Mexico under my belt, this was my one negative Baja experience.  I communicated the above to all the followers we had on the CSC blog and asked if they wanted to change the trip to someplace else here in the US, and everyone answered with a resounding No!   We did the Baja trip with 15 or so riders, and we did several more CSC Baja rides after that.   Every one of those trips was a blast.  Here’s a video I prepared from the first CSC ride:

You can read more about Baja and our adventures down there in Moto Baja.

I made a lot of good friends on those Baja rides, many of whom still ride their CSC motorcycles and many of whom regularly follow the ExNotes blog.   You’ve seen their comments here over the last four or five years.

To me, Baja is the best riding there is.  If you’re headed into Baja, make sure you get insurance.  It’s not likely you’ll need it, but the Mexican government requires that you be insured and your regular insurance won’t cover you in Mexico.  The insurance provider we always go with is BajaBound.

Want more Baja content?  You can find more ExNotes Baja stuff here.

ExNotes Review: Viking Momentum Tail Bag

Two or three years ago Joe Gresh and I provided product reviews on our Viking motorcycle jackets.   We like them a lot and you may have noticed that Viking advertises on our website.  Both jackets have given us good service and I’ll provide links to those reviews at the end of this blog.

The topic today is the Viking Momentum small street and sportbike tail bag.  I’ve found bags like this to be ideal for my travels through Baja and elsewhere.  I used similar equipment on my KLR 650 and I found that I could carry more than I needed in Baja and elsewhere.  Gresh suggested the Viking bag and I ordered one.  It arrived quickly and it was well packaged.

The Viking Momentum bag arrived in a robust cardboard box.

After taking the Viking bag out of the box, I put it on my Royal Enfield.  The size was about perfect.  What I especially like is that I can swing my left over it when getting on and off the motorcycle.  With larger tail bags, getting on and off the motorcycle becomes a problem, but not with the Viking bag.

The Viking Momentum tail bag.

The Viking bag has a hinged lid and lots of mounting points.  I’ve not used the slotted deal on top of the lid yet.  It looks cool.  The bag also has a carrying handle.   It’s a well-designed and well-built motorcycle accessory.  I examined the bag closely and I am impressed with the build quality.  I could not find any defects and no indications of sloppy workmanship.

The Momentum has a carrying handle and two zipper handles for opening an expanding the bag.

Before I installed the bag on my Royal Enfield, I opened it to see the interior.  The Momentum comes with a rain liner, a set of straps, and spare nylon web bungee cord attach points.  You can rivet these to the bag (in addition to the four already present) or you can use them as replacements if the ones on the bag detach.

Inside the Momentum I found a rain liner and extra straps. You can use the extra straps for additional tie down points. I think I could use the straps to turn the Momentum bag into a backpack.
Extra straps and spare D-ring attachments.

The Viking Momentum bag has four Velcro straps on the bottom.  These pass under the seat, stick to each other, and secure the bag to the seat.

The Momentum upside down. The Velcro straps pass under the motorcycle seat and attach to each other.

To mount the bag, I took the seat off the Enfield.  The Enfield and Viking designs makes this easy.  On the Enfield, the ignition key unlocks the right side panel, it comes off, and that reveals a cable pull button that unlocks the seat.  Easy peasy.

Unlocking the Enfield side panel to gain access to the seat release.
The Enfield’s seat release.
The Enfield seat removed from the motorcycle.

Once the seat was off the bike, it was a simple matter to mate the Viking Momentum’s mounting straps underneath.

The Momentum tail bag strapped to the Enfield seat.

I first mounted the seat so its carrying handle faced forward, as shown below.  Then I reversed it.  I’ll say more about that in a bit.

The Momentum installed on the Enfield.

The Viking bag has two zippers around the exterior.  The upper one is for the lid; it provides access to the bag’s interior.  There’s another zipper around the bag’s base; unzipping it allows the bag to expand and approximately doubles its volume.

With the bottom seat unzipped, allowing the Momentum to expand.

I thought it would be cool if the expanded bag would hold a full-face helmet, but it did not.  That’s okay.  If I put my helmet inside, there wouldn’t be room for anything else.

There are a couple of zippers inside the Viking bag.  One is on the bag’s inner walls.  The other is on the underside of the lid.  You can store things in the lid compartment like your phone, a map, a Baja tourist visa, your BajaBound insurance paperwork, and other stuff.

The Momentum interior.
The underside of the Momentum lid. You can unzip the zipper and store small items inside the lid’s pocket.
Like most motorcycle apparel and many luggage items, the Momentum is manufactured in Pakistan.

The Viking Momentum includes a rain liner.  It packs up compactly.  You can keep your stuff dry in the rain liner inside the Momentum bag.  It’s a nice touch.

The Momentum rain liner.

With the Momentum bag’s handle facing forward, I didn’t like how the bag was positioned on the seat.  It provided adequate room, but no extra room.  The Enfield has a hard seat.  I’m getting older and my butt is aging along with the rest of me.  I need extra room to move around on a motorcycle seat, and with the bag mounted with the carrying handle forward I didn’t have any extra room.  I also noticed that the base zipper (the one you unzip to expand the bag) pull was digging into the Enfield’s Naugahyde surface.  I didn’t want to disrespect the Nauga that gave up its hyde for my seat, so I turned the bag around and moved it more toward the rear.

With the Momentum mounted with the handle facing forward, the expansion zipper toggle is against the seat surface. I turned the bag around to eliminate this issue.

When I did that, the Velcro straps are still captured by the seat’s base mounting points (the bag won’t slide off), and I eliminated the zipper-to-Naugahyde interference.

The Velcro straps secured on the motorcycle seat after reversing the bag.

Cosmetically, the seat looks great in either orientation.

The Momentum mounted in the reverse position.  The expansion zipper handle is off the seat.

I once led a bunch of guys on a short Baja weekend ride about 15 years ago.  One had a Harley, he was new to motorcycling, and he had never done an overnight ride.  We met at a Denny’s before heading for Mexico, and when he rolled up on his Electra-Fried, he and that Harley looked like they escaped from the opening scene on the old Beverly Hillbillies show.  The only thing missing was Granny in her rocking chair.  He told me his saddlebags and his Tour Pak were stuffed, and he also had two or three gym bags bungied to the bike.   This was a weekend trip to San Felipe, about 130 south of the border, and we were only staying two nights.  My KLR had a medium tank bag and nothing else (and that tank bag also held a camera).  “I’m ready for a week down there,” my friend announced from his adventure Glide.

“Well,” I said, “I’ve got my Nikon and a spare set of underwear, so I guess I’m good for a week, too.”

My boat anchor Nikon D810 and a Nikkor 24-120 lens in the Momentum. I really like this.  The camera and the lens cost almost as much as the Enfield.

I guess I shouldn’t make fun of that guy.  I get it; he was at the front end of the learning curve, and we’ve all been there. I once took an overpacked Harley into Baja, too.  We were going to Cabo, taking the ferry to mainland Mexico, heading down to Guadalajara, and coming back through Sinaloa cartel country (you can read about that trip here).  I did not yet know about the virtues of traveling light and good ballistic nylon gear like the Viking Momentum bag.

How not to pack a motorcycle. The Momentum tail bag is a much better approach.

The point is this:  You don’t need to carry a lot on a motorcycle trip (even if you write a blog), and you can get a lot of stuff in the Viking Momentum.  I like it.  The Momentum tail bag is a good deal; on the Viking website it retails for $99.99.

So there you go:  My take on the Viking Momentum tail bag.  It’s a good thing to have for your motorcycle but don’t take my word for it.  Listen to what Bernadette has to say.

I mentioned above I would provide links to the Viking motorcycle jacket reviews.  Here’s mine, and here’s Joe Gresh’s.

More ExNotes product reviews are here.

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Fallingwater, Pennsylvania

By Joe Berk

Fallingwater, a famous Frank Lloyd Wright structure in southwestern Pennsylvania, is a place we have long wanted to visit.   We finally checked that box late last year and it was well worth the trip.  It’s one of Frank Lloyd Wright’s most famous architectural accomplishments, designed in 1935 and completed in 1939 for the wealthy Kaufman family.   The Kaufmans owned a large department store empire in nearby Pittsburgh, and Fallingwater was their vacation home.   The Kaufman family turned the estate over to the Western Pennsylvania Conservancy and it now operates as an area open to the public.

A Commonwealth Treasure indeed!

The Kaufman family’s request to Wright was straightforward:  They wanted something unique, something that merged the mountains’ natural beauty with the architecture, and they wanted the local stream to run through the home.  The resulting home became one of Wright’s best known accomplishments.    Frank Lloyd Wright had a distinguished career and he is arguably one of the most famous architects who ever lived.  Fallingwater is the only Wright home open to the public.

A river runs through it…the view from one of the balconies at Fallingwater.  Check out the leaves turning color.
Note the layered sandstone construction.

The Kaufmans asked Wright to use natural materials from the area and he did.  Much of the home is constructed of local sandstone.  They also asked Wright to design the interior furnishings and decor.  It all works well together.

A local artist taking it all in.
Wright also designed the interior and its furnishings.
The family room.
Wright chotchkas.
Furniture crafted from local trees.
More interior pieces.
This looks southwestern, but it works with the sandstone walls.

In 2019, Fallingwater was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List.  It is also a National Historic Landmark, it is a Commonwealth of Pennsylvania Treasure, the American Institute of Architects named it the best all time work of American Architecture.  All that’s great, but take it from us, the ride and the place are awesome.  As a destination, Fallingwater is tough to beat.

A photo from the exterior, showing the balconies and the surrounding woodlands.

Fallingwater is in the Laurel Highlands area about 70 miles outside of Pittsburgh.  It’s a mountainous area, and because of that, the roads are perfect for great riding.  The scenery, the roads, and the riding in this area are pretty much what good motorcycle riding is all about in all but the winter months.  Fall is one of the best times to take it in as the leave turning colors add a further visual treat to what is already a delight to the senses.  The trick is to do it late enough in the year that the leaves are turning, but not so late that the temps are too low or the roads are too icy.  We were lucky; our timing was perfect.

You can’t just show up at Fallingwater.  You have to make a reservation and pay for your tickets online.  Trust me on this:  The tour is money well spent.

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The Casio Marlin

By Joe Berk

I’ve mentioned my Casio Marlin (also known as the Duro) a few times in previous blogs.  I love this watch for any number of reasons:  It’s accurate, it’s rugged, it’s waterproof, it’s comfortable, and it’s inexpensive.  It’s a diver’s watch, but I’m not a diver.  I just like the look of thing.  I’ve worn it on a few big moto trips including the ride around the Andes Mountains in Colombia.  It poured cats and dogs on that trip.  The Marlin was unfazed.

At about $50, this watch has to be the deal of the century.  Just for grins I grabbed a picture of the Rolex Sea Dweller and put it along side the Casio.  If you own a Rolex don’t get your shorts in a knot ((I own one, too).   But the comparison has to make you wonder:  Let’s see, $50 for the Casio and $16,500 (or whatever it is these days) for the Sea Dweller (if you can find one and in today’s market that’s not easy).  As Aristotle would say….hmmmmm.

Yeah, you can go a little deeper with the Rolex (they say down to 3,900 meters).  My Casio says it’s good for 200 meters.  That’s over 600 feet down.  It’s not likely I’ll ever visit those regions and if I ever do I can guarantee you the time of day is not what will be on my mind.

I’ve owned my Marlin for about 10 years now.  I think I’ve had to replace the battery twice.  My guy charges me $3.25 to install a new battery (parts and labor).  The strap got stiff and cracked, so I’ve replaced that once (I think it was $10).  I checked and the cost of a replacement resin Rolex band is close to $300.  On the other hand, the Rolex is self-winding, so it never needs a battery.   Again….hmmmm.

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On that comfort thing…the Casio Marlin is about the right size for a man’s watch and the resin band is very comfortable.  I always forget I have it on and on more than a few occasions I’ve gone into the water wearing it (swimming, showering, and most recently, almost being swept away in my Subaru going to the gun club).  It doesn’t matter to the Casio.  I’d say it’s indestructable, but some Internet weenie would want to get into a urinating contest about that.

Boarding the ferry in Magangué on the Magdelena River.  Even there, the Casio’s good looks and functionality appealed to an onlooker.

When I rode Colombia with Juan and Carlos, one time we had to wait a couple of hours on a hot and humid afternoon for the ferry to come in and carry us down the Magdalena River to Mompos.  While we were waiting in what little shade we could find in Magangué, a young Colombian boy came over and touched the Casio, nodding his approval.  If I had another watch with me I would have given it to him.  I still think about that on occasion and wish I had given it to that kid.  I think when I bought my Marlin, they were $39.  That young fellow most likely would have cherished the Casio the rest of his life (as I will).  Maybe I need another ride in Colombia.  If I go again I’ll throw an extra Marlin in one of the panniers.  You know, just to be prepared.

More watches and more product reviews?  You bet!

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Bobbie’s Solo Baja Ride: Part 3

By Bobbie Surber

Do you ever have those moments when you wake up unsure of where you are? I awoke to the sound of birds, more specifically, parrots, and the smell of fresh tortillas and knew instantly that this was not home; I was in Baja in Mulege and wholly smitten with my room with her stone walls, comfy bed, and protective mosquito netting. I didn’t want to get out of bed until I remembered that I had made plans to go horseback riding to the bay.

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Throwing on my clothes and double-timing it to the restaurant, I had just enough time for a cup of coffee and water before my guide arrived to take me to the ranch, which was less of a ranch and more of a lean-to along the highway with both our horses tied and already saddled. I met my girl for the day, Lupita. She had enough spunk to whinny at our arrival and appreciate the carrots I brought to help form this new friendship. Our saddlebag were loaded with swimwear and lunch, and we set off for a leisurely ride to the bay.

Horseback riding in the Sea of Cortez.

Muscle memory took over from riding horses in my youth, and I gave in to the morning’s joy and the view of Conception Bay. Riding down the beach at a slow gallop letting our horses have their lead and finding a bit of shade, we stopped for an early lunch of fresh fruit, good tequila, and some freshly made empanadas. After lunch, I asked if I could take off the saddle and ride bareback, something I had not done since childhood. It seemed a perfect idea for this glorious morning. Surprisingly my guide said yes and permitted me to ride Lupita bareback into the bay to enjoy a good swim. I had forgotten the thrill of entering a body of water on horseback; Lupita seemed to enjoy the experience as she left the security of the ocean bottom and took us further out into the bay. The morning flew by and soon it was time to return to the beach and make our way back to the corral.

Sunrise on the Rio Mulege.
A river runs through it…the Rio Mulege in Mulege.

Returning to Historica Casita in the heat of the early afternoon, I did what any sensible local would do. I retreated to the coolness of my room for a proper afternoon siesta. After a cold shower and fresh clothes, I headed out to explore. With the help of a newfound local friend and a Google search, I learned that the Mulege indigenous population has a long and rich history that dates back centuries. It is believed that the region’s first inhabitants were hunter-gatherers who lived in small bands, but the arrival of the Mission changed their lives forever. Spanish missionaries established the mission in 1730, teaching the local population how to farm and build adobe structures and simple homes. I was also happy to learn there has been an effort to preserve their history by preserving ancient artifacts and teaching younger generations about their heritage.

The Mission in Mulege.

While the Mission was closed, I could still walk the grounds and view the river from the vantage point of the Mission, as it is built on one of the highest points in Mulege. Wandering back down the hill, I walked the river’s edge, exploring the town and the small community of locals and ex-pats. As I made my way back to the hotel, I realized how hungry I was and looked forward to an evening in the hotel courtyard, a good dinner, and a freshly squeezed margarita. The evening did not disappoint as I sat visiting with locals and a young family visiting from the mainland. Soon I was off to bed with the promise of an early rise and the chance to explore the many beaches along Conception Bay.

Sunrise on the Sea of Cortez.
A fine Mulege breakfast.

The following day I was back on my bike and headed towards my next stop, Playa Santispac, a short 25 kilometers south on Highway 1. I knew I only had a few hours before the oppressive heat and humidity would force me back to the room, and I was determined to make the most of the day. Cresting the ridge, I was overlooking the bay with her teal-colored water inviting a closer look. Santispac beach has a restaurant and several palapas stationed along the beach; as I rode my bike down the beach, I decided a swim was in order, followed by a hearty breakfast at the modest beachside restaurant.

An overlanding rig.
My BMW on a beach in Mexico.

Swim and breakfast completed, I headed further south, stopping at each beach I passed and settling on what has become one of my favorite beaches, Playa el Requeson. The white sand and sand spit at low tide, taking you to a small island, was more than I could resist. Setting up my camp chair, I soon made friends with an overlander couple from England. Borrowing their snorkeling gear I enjoyed a quick swim out to the island, enjoying the starfish and rockfish along the shore. I reluctantly returned for one last night in Mulege with a new plan for the following day, to ride to Loreto for lunch and then return to Playa el Requeson to camp for two nights.

Loreto’s Malecon.
Loreto has a rich history.

Loreto has a rich history that dates back to the 16th century when Spanish missionaries established the first mission in the area. Indigenous people then populated the area, and over time, it became an important fishing port for the region. Today Loreto is a popular tourist destination complete with a Malecon along her waterfront. Loreto has an historic town square with a well-preserved mission and museum. With a population of around 25,000, finding lodging at every price point is easy, as are the town’s many services.

The Loreto Mission.

After a lovely day sightseeing, I headed about an hour and a half back north to Playa el Requeson to find a bit of shade and a good place for my tent. The afternoon was blazing hot as I headed inland along Hwy 1, as I once again cursed myself for selecting June to make this ride. Complaining aside, I arrived and indulged in a long swim to take the sting out of the day’s heat. I found my new friends in the overlanding vehicle who gave me the gift of a cold drink with ice and offered the shade of their massive vehicle to pitch my tent. The day gave way to a glorious sunset, and soon, we had a modest fire complete with fresh fish for dinner. With a million stars out for our pleasure, full bellies, and the delight of margaritas on the beach, the night was spent with storytelling of our past adventures. Both Stephen and Shelly’s stories surpassed mine as they shared their adventures traveling through three continents over the past several years.

The two days camping on the beach flew by, and it was sadly time to make my way back north. I planned to head to San Felipe, but the reality of the heat made heading back to the Pacific side an easy choice. Retracing my ride through Baja allowed me to revisit a few of my favorite places and discover a few new ones to ensure this would not be my last ride there!

Part 1 of my Baja adventure is here.  Part 2 is here.

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