Quite a Week…

By Joe Berk

As the title implies, last week was quite a week, and a lot of it focused on Moto Guzzi stuff.  The Roman gods are sending me a message, I think, but old age and big bucks will most likely keep my desire to own a vintage Guzzi suppressed.  And there’s been some pocketknife stuff, too, leading into the age-old Chinese quality discussion.  I’ll get to that in a minute.

The guts of a Guzzi in the Cycle Garden shop. This is a cool place in a hot locale (temperatures sometimes approach 120 degrees in Indio).

I spent Monday morning at Cycle Garden in Indio, California, getting tutored by good buddy Steve on the finer points of Guzzi fork rebuilding.  It’s for a piece I’m doing on that topic, and the folks at Cycle Garden couldn’t have been more welcoming.  These guys know their stuff, as well they should: They are the largest, busiest, and probably the best in the world at concours-level Guzzi restorations.  I developed a bad case of the “I wants” for a restored Guzzi after seeing some of the bikes at the top of this blog, but it’s probably not in the cards.

Just forking around out in the desert…

After treating me to a cup of his famous home-roasted and ground coffee, Steve showed some of the bikes to me.  There’s not a single part on a Cycle Gardens restoration Guzzi that isn’t touched during the restoration (both 0n the motorcycle and in the engine).   How much?  Somewhere in the neighborhood of $40,000 to $50,000.  A look at any of the Cycle Garden bikes easily confirms the value is there.  But my wallet is light enough already.  Watch for more on the Cycle Garden shop; it’s amazing.

The man, the Moto Guzzi, and the legend: Chris Donaldson sitting across the table from yours truly. Buy the book on Amazon. Buy mine, too!

On Friday, I visited another Guzzi shop 130 miles to the west, this time to meet with and interview Chris Donaldson.  Chris wrote Going the Wrong Way, the story of his ride around the world on a Moto Guzzi.  He just flew into Los Angeles from Ireland to ride across the US.  We had a nice meeting, and you’ll be hearing more about Chris in a subsequent blog.

One the pocketknife front, it’s been mostly good (and the good will be featured in upcoming blogs) with several new additions to the collection.  But there’s been a couple of bad apples, and that’s increased my smarts about what to look for in a pocketknife.

The Schrade stag-handled folding hunter. The blade wobbled in the knife body when closed. Back it went. I’m still waiting for a replacement.  It’s made in China.

The first was a large Buck-110-style Schrade folding hunter with stunning stag grips.  The knife arrived and I loved the look of it, but it had a defect.  With the blade closed, it wobbled inside the knife body.  In my opinion, it should have no side-to-side play, so back it went.  I don’t want my money back; I just want a good knife.  We’ll see what happens.

The Rough Rider Large Hunter. I love the design, but the knife is no good. The tip lies above the line of the knife body when the knife is closed. Muey malo, mi amigo. This is also a Chinese knife.

The next was another beautiful large hunter, this time from Rough Rider. It’s a beautiful knife, but it arrived with a different problem.  On this one, when the knife is closed the tip of the blade sits slightly proud of the knife body, and that means you can catch your hand on it.   Who would think to check for this?  Apparently, not the folks who manufacture the knife, and not the folks who sell them, either.  I bought one from Amazon, and I returned it the next day.  I wanted the knife, though, so I ordered it again from Chicago Knife Works.  Wouldn’t you know it?  The replacement knife had the same problem. Size notwithstanding, it’s an inexpensive knife, but apparently they’re all bad (at least based on my sample of two).

The Rough Rider’s kick. Grinding it down didn’t fix the problem.

I tried grinding down the Rough Rider’s kick (the part of the blade that controls how far it goes into the knife body when it closes), but that didn’t fix the problem.  It’s an inexpensive knife (only about $15) and I’m not going to bother returning it.  I’ll just look at it from time to time.  It will remind me that I’m not as smart as I sometimes think I am.

Stay tuned, my friends.  There’s more coming your way.


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ExNotes Book Review: Going the Wrong Way

By Joe Berk

I thought I’d read everything that had ever been published about traveling the world on a motorcycle.  I’ve written about it on ExNotes, describing my favorites among all the books on this topic.

Notice that I’m writing in the past tense, and the reason for that is I most recently learned about another motorcycle saga that belongs on my best-in-class list: Going the Wrong Way, by Chris Donaldson.

My newfound discovery came about almost by accident a few days ago when I visited with Moto Guzzi Classics, an independent Guzzi revival and maintenance facility in Signal Hill, California for a potential story I’m doing for the ExNotes blog and maybe one of the motorcycle magazines.  The guys who run Moto Guzzi Classics are, in as few words as possible, both a bit eccentric and absolute subject matter experts.  One of them, my new good buddy Wyatt, showed a few of the bikes in their shop to me, and one of those motorcycles belongs to Chris Donaldson.  Chris is a Belfast boy (as in Belfast, Ireland) who is going around the around on a Moto Guzzi 850 Le Mans.

Man, there’s a lot to unpack in that last sentence.  Belfast.  Coming of age during The Troubles.  Getting out of Ireland as a young man.  Moto Guzzi, which has to be one of the coolest motorcycles on the planet (they’re like Harleys, but for people who like motorcycles).  The Le Mans 850, which has to be one of the worst motorcycles in the world for world travel.  Traveling the world (as in present tense).    That’s right, the journey is not over, even though Mr. Donaldson started it many decades ago.  Donaldson plans to continue his global conquest on the same motorcycle, which is one of the reasons why the bike you see here is currently in the queue at Moto Guzzi Classics in Signal Hill.

I’ve had a hard time putting the Going the Wrong Way down on my nightstand each night for the last several nights.  I’d read until I couldn’t stay awake, and fall asleep reading it.  Don’t get me wrong; the book is anything but boring.  Just the opposite is true.  It’s fabulous, and even though I couldn’t keep my eyes open because I was reading into the wee hours, I couldn’t stop reading.   Going the Wrong Way has all the bike reliability stuff to keep an engineer interested, all the philosophical stuff to keep a philosopher awake, all the people stuff to keep a people person awake, all the border crossing drama stuff to keep a world traveler tuned in, and, well, I could go on, but I don’t want to spoil it for you.  The writing is almost poetic.  It’s that good.

Folks, Going the Wrong Way is a great read.  Don’t just take my word for it; there are something like 1,394 Amazon reviews posted on this book (soon to be 1,395, when I write mine), which is really kind of stunning for a motorcycle travel book written by a rider with no sponsors.  Trust me on this: Get yourself a copy of Going the Wrong Way.  You can thank me later.


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