Powder Weight Weenies

By Joe Cota

A quick preface before you read Joe Cota’s blog:  Wow, we are up to three Joes on ExNotes…Joe Gresh, me, and now, Joe Cota.   Joe Cota has contributed a few blogs to us previously (before we implemented our new writers program).  When Joe most recently sent this in, I felt it was time to include him as one of our regulars, and with this blog, he is.  Joe is one of the good guys.   He is a professional geologist, an active off-road racer in Baja California, a handloader and bullet caster of 18 years, and an avid flintlock rifle and pistol shooter. Joe lives in the San Bernardino Mountains of Southern California. When not working or racing trucks and buggies in Mexico, Joe can be found fly fishing at his summer home on the Henry’s Fork River in eastern Idaho.

– Joe Berk


Written on Christmas Day, 2023

Merry Christmas to all 🎄❄️🎅!

A lot of you will be casting and handloading today, some with their new reloading equipment! Here’s something for your consideration that came up on another message board.  Powder weight weenies will argue that all handloaders MUST unequivocally weigh each and every single powder charge to one tenth of a grain of powder or less. Some wildly claim that a half-grain (0.5-grain) of powder makes a 50 to 100 feet per second difference or more in rifle cartridge velocity while others often use this as flawed reasoning as back-up for claiming that volume-based powder dispensers, such as the Lee Auto Disc used on turret presses, are highly inaccurate and produce terrible and unacceptable ammunition. This could not be further from the truth! Let’s bust some reloading myths.

The variation that my ancient Lee Auto Disk throws is about 0.1 to 0.2 grain, depending on if I am using ball powders versus extruded powders. The photos below is what 0.5 grain of Hodgdon H4831 SC extruded rifle powder looks like. For reference, the variation in powder charges that my Lee Auto Disc throws is less than half of the 0.5 grain of H4831 shown in the photo.

So what does a half-grain of powder actually mean in terms of velocity in a typical big game hunting rifle?  Let’s explore a real life example. I load .300 Weatherby Magnum ammunition with 168-grain bullets and H4831SC powder. Per the Hodgdon Reloading Data Center, the starting load is 74 grains (which provided 2,865 feet per second in their test rifle) and the maximum load is 81 grains (which provided 3107 feet per second in their rifle).  That’s a 242 feet per second difference in velocity over a full 7-grain powder spread.  Interpolating these results linearly (a 242 feet per second velocity difference over a 7-grain propellant spread) means that each additional grain of propellant over the minimum powder charger yields an additional 34 feet per second.  Therefore, a half grain of powder would make only 17 feet per second difference in velocity!  Everyone who uses a chronograph knows that 17 feet per second is typically only a fraction of the extreme velocity spread most rifles and rifle ammo produce.

What about pistol handloads?  Take the .45 Colt, using a 255-grain cast lead bullet and Winchester W231 ball powder.  The starting load is 5.1 grains (which provides 677 feet per second) and the maximum load is 6.9 grains (which provides 917 feet per second).  Using the same methodology as the above rifle computations and comparisons, each 0.1 grain of W231 powder equates to only about 13 feet per second.  Again, this is far less than the extreme spread one can expect in .45 Colt ammo.

Does case size matter? I believe it does, but not that much. Take the .223 Remington cartridge, for example, loading 55-grain Hornady bullets with Winchester 748 powder. Straight from the Hornady manual (the 7th Edition), 1 grain of powder between starting and max loads for this combination is 100 feet per second per grain of powder, or 10 feet per second for each 0.1 grain. And again, 10 feet per second is only a fraction of the extreme spread one could expect from perfectly identical powder charges.

So variations in powder volume does matter a little more in the smaller rifle cartridges, but not enough to make anyone steer clear of auto powder dispensers on turret presses versus individually weighing each charge.  Richard Lee was right when he wrote in his Modern Reloading book that powder volume is more critical than weight and that one should periodically weigh a charge only as a double check for volume.

So there’s little justification for being a Tenth of a Grain Weight Weenie! Don’t be THAT guy who bashes turret press and powder dispenser users based on misconceptions posted by folks on the Internet.

Happy handloading and a prosperous new year to all!


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Part 3: Lee’s .44 Fab Four Conclusions

This is our third and final blog on the Lee .44 Magnum Deluxe 4-die set.  We posted an initial blog on the four dies and their components, and then a second blog on how to setup each die in the reloading press.  This last blog on the .44 Magnum Deluxe 4-die set shows how my reloaded ammo performed and wraps up my thoughts on the Lee 4-die set’s advantages.


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Here’s the bottom line:  The Lee Deluxe 4-die set is easy to set up, it makes accurate ammo, and it positively prevents bullet pull under recoil.  Lee’s locking, crimping, and decapping pin retention approaches are superior and the Lee dies cost less.  It’s a better product at a lower price.

That said, let’s take a look at the specifics.

.44 Magnum ammo loaded with Lee’s Deluxe 4-die set.  It’s good looking, consistent, and accurate ammo.

I used my Turnbull Ruger Super Blackhawk for this test series.  It’s the gun you see in the big photo at the top of this blog.  I fired 5-shot groups at 50 feet from a bench, using a two-hand hold and resting my hands on the bench.  No other part of the revolver was supported and I did not use a machine rest.  I held at 6:00 on the orange bullseye.

Superb Accuracy

This, to me  (and I imagine to most reloaders) is the most crucial aspect in evaluating any reloading equipment, and in my experience, Lee’s Deluxe 4-die set provides superior accuracy.  I was more than pleased with the results.  The targets below speak for themselves.  My preferred .44 Magnum load of 6.0 grains of Bullseye with a 240-grain cast semiwadcutter bullet, reloaded with Lee’s Deluxed 4-dies set worked well.  It was accurate, and barrel leading and recoil were minimal.  I know you can load hotter .44 Magnum loads.  Read that sentence again, and put the accent on you.  A 240-grain projectile at just under 1000 feet per second (which is what my load provides) works fine for me.

A one-hole, 5-shot group brought to you by Lee’s Deluxe 4-die set.
Typical .44 Magnum groups at 50 feet with ammo loaded on Lee’s Deluxe 4-die set.
Modest barrel leading after 50 rounds of .44 Magnum ammo with cast bullets.

Groups that tore one ragged hole were typical.   That speaks highly of the Lee die set’s ability to produce consistent ammo.

Consistent Crimping

The Lee factory crimp die is just a better approach than any other die maker’s.  It gives a better crimp, it assures cartridge chambering, and I believe it maintains better bullet alignment in the case.  Yeah, you can crimp in a separate step with the bullet seating die, but then you wouldn’t have the carbide straightening and alignment features you get in the Lee factory crimp die.  It’s a better approach that better aligns the bullet in the case and guarantees reliable chambering.

A beautiful and consistent crimp.

Simply put, with the Lee factory crimp die there is no bullet movement under recoil.   None of the cartridges in this test series experienced bullet pull under recoil.  The Lee crimp die does a great job in locking the bullets in place.  In similar testing using a Lee Deluxe 4-die set in .357 Magnum, I found that regular crimping (i.e., not using the Lee factory crimp die) allowed bullet pull, but crimping with the Lee factory crimp die did not.  This .44 Magnum reloaded ammo performed similarly.

Easy Die Adjustability

The Lee dies are easy to adjust and they stay in adjustment.  I like Lee’s incorporation of orings for holding the locknut in place and for locking the die position in the press.

Lee uses orings extensively for lockrings and other adjustments. The approach works.

When I first encountered Lee’s oring approach 40+ years ago, I thought it was a bit sketchy, but I’ve come around.  I believe this is better than using a standard locknut, even when the locknut uses a set screw to lock it in place on the die body.   The Lee approach is easier to use.  You can remove the die and preserve the adjustment without damaging the die body threads.  I’ve never had a Lee die go out of adjustment, and to my surprise, none of the orings on any of my Lee dies ever deteriorated or otherwise failed (and some of my Lee dies are more than 30 years old).  Even if an oring did fail, based on my prior experience with Lee Precision I’m pretty sure if I (or you) called Lee, they’d ship a replacement for free.

Free Shellholder

As mentioned previously in one of the blogs in this series, I like the fact that a Lee die set includes the shell holder.

Lee provides a free shellholder with their dies. It’s the right thing to do.

With most (maybe all) other die manufacturers, you have to buy the shellholder separately.  That’s an inconvenience and an added expense.  I like Lee’s approach better.

Better Decapping Pin Retention

I like Lee’s approach for securing the sizing die decapping pin better than the approach used by the other guys.

The Lee decapping pin retention approach is a superior engineeirng design.

With other manufacturers’ dies, if something obstructs the decapping pin, it’s easy to bend or break the decapping pin.  When that happens, a reloading session is over until a new pin is installed.  With Lee’s approach, an obstruction just backs the decapping pin out of the locking collet, and if that occurs, it only takes a minute to fix.

Lower Cost

Lee dies are less expensive than other dies.  Simply put, you get more bang for your buck with Lee dies.

The Bottom Line

As I said above, the .44 Magnum Lee Deluxe 4-die set is easy to set up, it makes accurate ammo, and it positively prevents bullet pull under recoil.  Lee’s locking, crimping, and decapping pin retention approaches are superior and the Lee dies cost less.  It’s a better product at a lower price.


Here are links to our earlier blogs on Lee dies:

Lee’s Deluxe .357 Magnum 4-die set.
Part I: Lee’s Deluxe .44 Magnum 4-die set.
Part II:  Lee’s Deluxe .44 Magnum 4-die set.


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Part 1: Lee’s Fab Four for the .44

A month or so ago I wrote a blog about Lee’s .357 Magnum Deluxe 4-die set.  I liked those dies so much I picked up a Lee 4-die set in .44 Magnum.  I am similarly pleased with this latest set of dies.  There’s too much info to fit into one blog post, so I’m presenting it in three blogs:

      • This first blog is about the four different dies, what each does, and the parts in each die.  Lee’s engineering is superior, and this blog showcases it.
      • A second blog will focus on installing each die in my loading press, and how to adjust the dies to make world class .44 Magnum ammunition.  Watch for this blog within the week.
      • A third (and concluding) blog reveals how ammunition loaded with the Lee dies performed.  The ammo was stellar and I’m a believer.  Lee’s Deluxe 4-die set is a magnificent product and it makes magnificent ammunition.  But don’t take my word for it.  You’ll see it in the groups I shot.  The accuracy blog will post in about two weeks.

So, here we go.  When I reload, I start with fired ammo brass cartridge cases, like you see below.

Fired .44 Magnum ammo brass cases, loaded into the vibratory cleaner.  The vibratory cleaner polishes the brass cartridge cases.   This makes the cases look good, but more importantly, it prevents them from slipping rearward against the cylinder walls when the reloaded ammo is fired.

And when I finish, this is what I have…newly reloaded ammunition as good as or better than factory ammo, at a fraction of the cost of factory ammo.  That “as good as or better than factory ammo” descriptor is misleading.  My ammo is better.

A box of reloaded .44 Magnum ammo, custom tailored to my requirements, and capable of superior accuracy.

As most of you know, a gun chambered in .44 Magnum can also shoot .44 Special ammo (just like a .357 Magnum can shoot .38 Special).  .44 Magnum dies can be used for reloading .44 Special ammo.

The label for each Lee die set is a printed instruction and load data sheet. The boxes are indexed and they stack nicely.

Lee dies come in a hard plastic case with a clear cover.  The cover is removed by inserting a flat blade screwdriver on either side.

The plastic cover needs a little coaxing with a flat blade screwdriver to open. The cover includes a recess for screwdriver insertion.

The Lee label unfolds to reveal directions on using the dies along with a bunch of other information, including several suggested loads.  Over the last five decades, I’ve found a few .44 Magnum loads I like, and in particular, I have a favorite load I shoot in the Ruger Super Blackhawk.   I will share more of that with you in the next blog in this series.

The Lee instruction sheet includes load data and other information.

Lee’s Deluxe 4-die set consists of four dies, a shellholder, and a powder cup:

      • A carbide sizing die.
      • An expander die.
      • A bullet seating die.
      • A factory crimp die.

Here’s what the die set looks like after you remove the cover.

The Lee .44 Magnum/.44 Special Deluxe 4-die set. From left to right, it’s the factory crimp die, the expander die, the yellow powder cup, the shellholder, the bullet seating die, and the sizer die.

1. Sizing Die

The sizing die is a sizing and decapping die.  When this die is installed in the reloading press and a fired brass case is inserted into it by raising the press ram, two things occur:

      • The cartridge case is resized to its original diameter (it expanded when the cartridge was fired, so it needs to be resized to specification dimensions).  The Lee die is a carbide die, which means is has a very hard carbide steel tube inside the die body.   Because it is a carbide die, there’s no need to lubricate the cartridge cases for the resizing operation (like you have to do with plain steel dies).  Carbide dies are much preferred for this reason.
      • The used primer is pushed out of the cartridge case (this is the decapping operation).

Here’s the sizing die.

The Lee sizing die. The red arrow points to the locking collar.

Here’s the sizing die from the bottom:

The top arrow points to the locking ring. It has an oring that holds the locking ring in place. The locking ring is screwed down on the threaded die body to lock the die body in place. The middle arrow points to the carbide sizing insert. The center ring points to the decapping pin, which pushes the spent primer out of the cartridge case.

Viewed from above, the decapping pin is secured by a threaded collet that screws into the die body.  It’s a good approach because if there is an obstruction (if the pin hits the case bottom rather than the primer through hole, or if the primer through hole is blocked), the decapping pin simply pushes up in the threaded collet nut.  This prevents bending or breaking.

The upper arrow points to the top of the decapping pin. The lower arrow points to the threaded collet that secures the decapping pin in the die body.

2. Expander Die

Once the cartridge case has been resized in the sizer die, it needs to be opened up slightly and the case mouth needs to be flared to allow a new bullet to be started in the case.  This is accomplished with the expander die.  Like each die in the Lee Deluxe 4-die set, this die includes a locking ring to lock the die in the reloading press.   Some reloaders charge the case (add powder to the case) during the expander die operation.  I don’t reload this way, and I don’t know any reloaders who do.

The Lee expander die consists of six components.  These are:

      • The die body.
      • The locking ring and its oring.
      • An oring between the die body and the through hole insert.
      • An expander.
      • The through hole insert.

These components are shown in the photo below.

Expander die parts. The die body, the locking ring, and the oring are shown as a subassembly on the left. The arrow points to the expander. The part on the right is the powder through hole insert.

The expander slides up in the die body when a cartridge case is inserted by the press ram.   When it reaches the end of its travel, a ramp in the expander plug creates a flare on the case mouth. This is what will allow a new bullet to be inserted in the cartridge case.  In the photo below, the expander plug is inverted from its installed orientation to allow a better view of this ramp

The arrows point to the ramped surface that creates a flare in the case mouth.

You might wonder why there is a powder through hole component at the top of the expander die, and why the ramped expander plug is allowed to move up and down as a cartridge case is inserted into the expander die.  The through hole allows inserting powder into the case with the powder cup (which I don’t use).  Other Lee reloading gear uses the expander plug up and down motion to activate automatic powder dispensing devices (this is the approach used on Lee’s progressive reloaders).

The business end of the Lee expander die. The red arrow points to the expander plug as the cartridge case sees it.
The cartridge case on the left has not been through the expander; the cartridge case on the right has been through the expander. Notice the very slight flare on the right cartridge case mouth. This will allow starting a bullet into the case.

3.  Bullet Seating Die

The bullet seating die is the third die in the Lee Deluxe 4-die set.  This one is a bit more complicated than the first two because there are two adjustments, and this die can also be used as a crimping die.   With the 4-die set, I am not going to use this die for crimping.  I am only going to use it for seating the bullet to its required position in the cartridge case.

The bullet seating die is shown below.

The bullet seating die. The upper arrow points to the bullet seating adjuster, the middle arrow points to the die body, and the lower arrow points to the locking ring.

Here’s Lee’s illustration of the bullet seating die.

From the outside, the bullet seating die and the factory crimp die appear to be almost identical.   The easiest way to distinguish them is by the size of the knurled segment on top and by the length of the die body.

The bullet seating die is on the left; the crimping die is on the right. The bullet seating die has a longer knurled section and the die body is longer.

The bullet seating die parts include:

      • The die body.
      • The bullet-seating adjuster and its locking oring.
      • The locking ring and its oring.
      • The bullet seater.

These parts are shown below.

From left to right, this photo shows the bullet seating die body and locking ring, the bullet seater (denoted by the arrow), and the bullet-seating adjuster and its locking oring.
The bullet seater.
The bullet seater as seen by the bullet.  The arrow points to the bullet seater.

I mentioned above that I use this third die in the Lee Deluxe 4-die seat only to seat the bullet.  It can also be used to crimp the cartridge case around the bullet, but I don’t crimp with this die.  I use the Lee factory crimp die for crimping.

The bullet seating die also includes a crimping ramp in the die body, as shown by the arrow.

To adjust the die to do this, I run the bullet-seating adjuster well into the die body so that it pushes the bullet to its desired seating depth before the crimping feature reaches the cartridge case.   I’ll describe this adjustment in more detail in tomorrow’s blog.

You might wonder:  Why not do both (bullet seating and crimping) with this one die?   Some folks do, and if you have the Lee 3-die set (not the Deluxe 4-die set), that is your only option for crimping.  But this approach has the bullet still being inserted into the case as the crimping operation occurs, which invites potential bullet misalignment.  To get around that, I use the fourth die in the Lee Deluxe 4-die set (the factory crimp die).

4. Factory Crimp Die

The factory crimp die does three things:

      • It roll crimps the bullet in place.
      • It maintains bullet alignment in the cartridge case.
      • It removes any imperfections in the cartridge case to assure easy chambering.

Here’s the factory crimp die.

Here’s Lee’s illustration of the factory crimp die:

The factory crimp die has the following parts:

      • The die body.
      • The locking ring and its oring.
      • A carbide crimper sleeve.
      • The crimping adjuster and its locking oring.

These parts are shown below.

The Lee factory crimp die disassembled. From left to right, this photo shows the die body and its locking ring, the carbide crimper sleeve (indicated by the red arrow), and the crimp adjuster and its locking oring.
The carbide crimper. The red arrow points to the crimping ring inside the carbide crimper. Note that this feature must point down when the die is assembled; this piece is orientation sensitive.

The carbide crimper shown above requires the cartridge case to enter the carbide crimper sleeve before the crimp is executed.  This is an important feature, as it maintains bullet alignment with the case as the crimp is achieved and prevents case deformation that could interfere with chambering.  Also, the bullet is not moving further into the case as the crimp is achieved, which is what would occur if I used the bullet seating die to crimp the case.

The factory crimp die as seen by the cartridge. The upper arrow points to the crimper sleeve; the lower arrow points to the crimping ring within the crimper sleeve.

There’s another carbide ring at the base of the factory crimp die, shown by the photo below.

Lower carbide ring in the Lee factory crimp die.

The factory crimp die lower carbide ring both prevents and removes any deformation in the cartridge case when the case is crimped and the cartridge is inserted and withdrawn from the die.  This assures easy chambering and bullet-to-case alignment.


So there you have it.  In our next blog, which will post in about a week, I’ll explain how I set up each of the dies in my press.

You might be wondering:  Do these Lee dies really work?  The short answer is an emphatic yes.  I found when loading .357 Magnum ammo with the Lee Deluxe 4-die set that accuracy improved and bullet pull (bullets backing out under recoil) was eliminated.  To jump ahead a bit, the .44 Magnum Deluxe 4-die set described in this blog resulted in stellar accuracy.  I’ll cover that in a third blog, which will publish in about two weeks.  Before I get there, though, here’s a teaser photo:

One of a limited run of Turnbull color case hardened Ruger Super Blackhawks, and targets shot with ammo reloaded using Lee’s Deluxe 4-die set.

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