Manzanar National Historic Site

This is a blog I posted a few years ago for CSC Motorcycles.  It was a one-day road trip headed north on the Three Flags Highway. That’s US Highway 395 in the photo below, which runs from the border with Mexico all the way up to Canada. My destination was the Manzanar National Historic Site, and I went there to do a story for Motorcycle Classics magazine.

Highway 395 is magnificent, but I wanted to scoot up there quickly and do a bit of exploring in and around Manzanar, which is 210 miles north for me.

Any road trip through this region wouldn’t be complete without a peek at the Cottonwood charcoal kilns (and a peek from within the kilns).

The Cottonwood charcoal kilns are about 10 miles south of Manzanar and about a mile to the east of Highway 395. It’s soft sand getting there.  It was no problem on my KLR 650.

When World War II broke out, Franklin Roosevelt had Americans of Japanese descent from the three western states on the Pacific interred in what were basically concentration camps. It was a national disgrace, it’s hard to believe such things occurred in this country, and if I had to choose a single word to describe my visit, it would be “disturbing.”

The camp was just to the right of the guard tower you see above. Even though it was 104 degrees down on the Mojave floor when I shot this photo, you can still see snow in the eastern Sierras.

There were 10,000 Japanese-American prisoners kept at Manzanar. This is the inside of one of their barracks.

One of the Japanese-American internees was a kid named Bob Uragami. When I worked for Aerojet (in another life a few decades ago), Bob worked with me in the cluster bomb business. He was a test engineer.

There was a list inside the museum at Manzanar, and I found Bob’s name…he was rounded up with the rest of his family when he was a boy.

Here’s a view looking out the door of one of the barracks toward the Sierras.

This is the Manzanar cemetery. It’s about a mile away from the barracks on a dirt road, but the road inside the prison grounds is hard pack.  It’s not a problem on a motorcycle.

And the exit…the camp was guarded by US Army MPs.

I had my Nikon with me, and I made a bunch of stops to take photos as I rode through the desert on the home. Check out this unusual house, guarded by a rusty T-rex.

You see a lot of unusual things out in the Mojave, not the least of which was a collection of iron art.

One final shot, folks…a selfie.

The ride to Manzanar and the National Historic Site was a good one.  You’ll want to check the weather before you leave.  Highway 395 has temperatures well over 100 degrees during the summer, and it can be a very, very cold ride during the winter.


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Zion National Park

Zion. The name implies something of biblical proportions, something religious or heavenly.  It’s easy to understand that’s what the Mormon settlers thought when they entered this area in the mid-1800s. One of the crown jewels of the National Park system, Zion may be as close to heaven as you can get without a one-way ticket.

Late in the day, entering Zion National Park from the east on Utah SR 9.

I’ve visited Zion many times, and I’d go back again in a heartbeat.  Living in So Cal, Zion is only a day’s ride away.  I’ve been there in cars and many times on motorcycles ranging from 250cc Chinese imports to Big Twin Harleys.  My strong feelings for Zion are personal: It was the destination of my first big motorcycle trip. My riding buddy and departed friend Dick Scott suggested Zion back when we were going through our Harley phase (a phase most of us passed through), and it was beyond beautiful as we rolled into the park on Utah State Route 9.  Zion exceeded anything I could have imagined; I remember feeling like I was riding into a Western painting.  It has this effect on everyone with whom I’ve ever visited the Park.  That big photo above?   That’s Mr. Tso, a very likeable visitor from the Peoples Republic of China who rode with us on the CSC Motorcycles/Zongshen 5000 Mile Western America Adventure ride (a publicity effort that sold more than a few RX3 motorcycles worldwide).

Riding into Zion National Park, peering over the windshield. It’s almost a religious experience.

Nestled where the Mojave, the Great Basin and the Colorado Plateau meet, Zion requires adjectival adeptness to even approach an accurate description. Pastel pink mountains, verdant vegetation, electric blue skies and emerald pools combine with abundant wildlife to create a surreal collage of seemingly endless picture postcard scenes. As national parks go, it’s small, but the scenery is absolutely over the top. I’ve been to a lot of places on this planet, and I can state with certainty that Zion’s beauty is unsurpassed.  The wildlife add to the experience.  On one of the CSC rides (the Destinations Deal ride), we hit what I thought was traffic and had to stop in one of Zion’s tunnels.  I was frustrated until I lane split to the front of the line and found that the delay was caused by a group of bighorn sheep majestically and casually crossing the highway in front of us.  They were magnificent, and no, I did not get a photo.

Stopped by a bighorn sheep herd, with my fellow Zongers in the rearview mirror.
Taking in the splendor that is Zion, this group of riders is stopping to takes photos.
Tony, who is finding Zion to be a bit different than the Peoples Republic of China.

The folks who know about such things think the first humans inhabited Zion a cool 12,000 years ago, hunting local game including woolly mammoths, camels and giant sloths. As these critters were hunted to extinction, the locals turned to farming and evolved into an agrarian culture known as the Virgin Anasazi. The Paiutes moved in when the Anasazi migrated south, and then the Mormons settled alongside the Paiutes in the mid-1800s (that’s when the area received its biblical moniker). Archeologists are still finding evidence of these earlier civilizations.  These earlier folks were moving into Zion around the same time that the indigenous peoples were creating the cave paintings in Baja.

A wide-angle photo of SR 9 winding through Zion National Park.
One of the tunnels through Zion’s mountains along Utah SR 9.

The Great Depression brought great change in the 1930s, and Franklin Roosevelt’s Civilian Conservation Corps built roads and added upgrades to make the park more accessible. The Virgin River cut deeply through sandstone to create magnificent channels and impressive geologic formations, and the CCC work made these areas easier to reach. For most people, a visit to Zion is to see the sights from the valley floor, but you can also take a half-day excursion up the western edge of the park on Kolob Reservoir Road.  From there, you can look down into Zion for a completely different and equally magnificent perspective of the area.

Good buddy Rob, Willie, and more on a ride through Zion National Park.

Let’s talk about the ride — more superlatives are in order here. From any direction, you’ll know you are approaching a magical area. Antelope. Deer. Brilliant blue skies. Magnificent forests. Stunning mountains; it’s all here. From Southern California, you’ll experience tantalizing two-wheeled treats as Interstate 15 cuts through the canyons carved by the Virgin River. Riding in from Arizona’s Grand Canyon region southeast of Zion, the roads are similarly magnificent. And if you’re riding in from Bryce Canyon National Park to the northeast, well, you get the idea. This is one destination that has to be on the bucket list.

An easy ride from southern California…just take I-15 north and exit at Utah SR 9.

Zion National Park is an easy one-day freeway ride from southern California. Grab Interstate 10 East, then I-15 North through Nevada into Utah, to Utah Route 9 East (as you see in the above map).  From the south, pick up State Route 89 North in Flagstaff and watch for the signs where Route 89 crosses 9 West before Mt. Carmel, Utah. From the northeast, it’s I-70 West and grab the exit for Route 89 South.

Looking up from the floor of Zion National Park. In Zion, you are mostly in the canyons looking up.

As mentioned above, unlike Bryce Canyon or the Grand Canyon (two National Parks in which you look down into the rock formations), at
Zion you are in the canyon looking up.  For a different Zion perspective, take the Kolob Reservoir Road from the north to see things looking down into Zion. Check weather conditions first, as the road climbs to over 8,000 feet and may be impassible during the winter months.  Kolob Terrace Road begins in Virgin, Utah, about 13 miles west of Springdale. Look for the sign to the Kolob Reservoir.

If you’re looking for a good place to eat, Casa de Amigos Restaurant in Springdale, just before you enter Zion from the south, is a good spot (the shredded chicken burritos are my favorite).  It may be a victim of the pandemic, as Google indicated it was closed temporarily.  If you enter Zion from the east, Mt. Carmel is the last town before you reach the Park and there are several restaurants and hotels there.


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There comes a time…or does there?

A wise man once said there comes a time in every man’s life when he decides to hang it up…his riding days are over.  Ignoring the sexist tone of that gender-specific comment, I guess the follow-on comment has to be:  Or does there?

I turned 71 a few months ago.  To a lot of folks, that’s old.  The funny part of it is, though, I don’t feel old.  A little earlier today I was putzing around in the garage and my Royal Enfield was making me feel guilty.  I hadn’t had the 650 twin out on the road in the last few weeks, a character deficiency I promptly corrected.  The old girl and I had a nice ride around the neighborhood, I got the oil circulating again (in the Enfield and in yours truly), and I snapped that great photo you see at the top of this blog.   That’s snow-covered Big Bear you see off in the distance, a destination I’ve visited many times on a motorcycle.

But to get back on topic:  At what age should we think about hanging up our riding gear?   Now that I’m a septuagenarian (I had to look it up, so you can, too) I’m wondering about things like that.   But then I think about the guys I’ve ridden with and maybe I’ll continue riding for another 20 years or so.  Take a look.

Simon Gandolfi, who just turned 90 and is arguably the most interesting man in the world, is a novelist and moto adventurer extraordinaire. He’s ridden around the world on small displacement bikes.
Colorado Dan, the man. He cuts a dashing figure and is a great traveling companion.  He’s a year or two older than me.
Another most interesting man in the world…good buddy Willie. He’s usually riding when he’s not pitching Dos Equis.
James, our Texas Ranger and a serious traveler, is in my cohort and he rode Baja with us.

You know, the funny thing is the tone of the conversations during and after a good ride hasn’t changed at all over the nearly six decades I’ve been riding.  The topics have changed a bit, but not really that much.  We still mostly talk bikes and good roads.  But instead of bragging how drunk we were the previous night and who we spent the night with (which was mostly bullshit, anyway) the topics today address different specs.   Instead of 0 to 60 times, quarter mile performance, and top ends, now it’s things like our A1C, PSA, and HDL numbers.  You fellow geezers know what I’m talking about.  But the discussions are just as lively, I think a little more interesting, and probably a bit more truthful.  We’ll touch on politics on occasion, but if the conversation gets too heated or goes too far in that direction, I can always get us back on track (and get a good laugh) when I weigh in with a single question:

You guys know what the problem is in politics today?   All the guys who really know how to run the country are out screwing around riding their motorcycles.

So, at what age should you hang it up?  I’m finding that’s hard to say and most guys my age and older seem to just keep on going.  I’ve ridden with guys well into their 70s, 80s, and sometimes even more.   Good buddy Dan is heading down to Baja next month to camp on the beach near Gonzaga Bay, and he’s a little older than me.  Sim0n Gandolfi, the British novelist and adventure travel writer, rode to Cabo San Lucas and back with us on 150cc CSC Mustangs about a dozen years ago, and he’s about to leave on another epic moto trip at age 90.   James from Texas bought a new motorcycle and rode one of the Baja trips with us.  He spun off somewhere about halfway down the length of the Baja peninsula to take the ferry across to mainland Mexico, and he was going to ride home to Texas through Mexico.  And Willie, another most interesting man in the world, rides every chance he gets when he’s not doing Dos Equis commercials.  Like me, all of these guys qualify for that 89-cent cup of coffee at McDonald’s.

Yeah, I think I’m going to stay at it for a while.  I think you should, too.


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Bryce, Grand Staircase-Escalante, and Capitol Reef

Utah, hands down, is the most beautiful state in the Union.  I’ve been to every state in the US except North Dakota, and unless there’s something hiding up there, Utah gets my vote.   There are places in Utah with scenery and riding that are as close as you can get to heaven without a one-way ticket.  There’s Zion National Park (to be covered in a future blog), there’s Bryce Canyon National Park, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, and Capitol Reef National Park (which I’ll cover in this blog), there’s Cedar Breaks National Park (a topic for a future blog), there’s Kodachrome Basin State Park (another future blog), there’s Flaming Gorge National Park (that’s coming up in another blog), and there’s Arches National Park (to be yet another blog).  And then there’s the Dinosaur Highway.  I’ve been to all of them, and I’m telling you, if you like road trips it doesn’t get any better than Utah.

Panguitch on the western end of this trip, and Hanksville on the eastern end. It is a grand ride.

There’s a reason I’m touching on Bryce, Grand Staircase-Escalante, and Capitol Reef in one blog.  Two reasons, actually:  State Routes 12 and 24.  These two roads run through all three National Parks, and they are two of the best roads I’ve ever ridden.  If you want to plan this grand adventure, start in Panguitch, ride Utah SR 12 and 24, and spend the following night in Hanksville, Utah. I’ve got good places to have dinner in both towns, and I’ll share them with you in this blog.  It’s a full day’s ride to get from one to the other (maybe longer if you want to stop and see the sights).

The large featured photo at the top of this blog is in Bryce Canyon National Park. This is another photo in Bryce. Unlike Zion ((where you are in a basin looking up at the rock formations), in Bryce you are up top looking down into the colorful canyon. Bryce has stunning views.

This is the most beautiful stretch of the planet I’ve ever ridden. The colors and the riding are stunning. Think bright blue skies, vibrant and verdant pine trees, and multi-colored pastel rock formations. The formations include stunning pinnacles called hoodoos, plus arches, large rock mounds, exposed vermillion cliffs and monstrous domes and folds in the Earth’s surface. Although the region was once alive with dinosaurs, you most likely won’t see fossils. But you will see an artist’s palette of pleasing pastels: reds, pinks and browns due to iron in the sandstone, yellows and creams created by limonite, and purples presented by pyrolusite. Whatever the chemistry, the display through this stretch is dazzling.

The spot for dinner in Panguitch is the Cowboy’s Smoke House Cafe. You’ll probably have to wait to get in. Trust me: It’s worth it.

You can ride US 89 from Panguitch to pick up SR 12 at its western end. Head east and in just a few miles you’ll be at Bryce Canyon National Park. Bryce is one of America’s jewels, with hoodoos arranged in several natural amphitheaters. An early morning start will help capture dramatic photos; the sun will be low in the eastern sky and the resultant lighting makes the colors pop. Native American Paiutes thought these hoodoos were ancestors turned to stone. Take a long look at some of these formations and you’ll see why.

Stay on SR 12 after Bryce and you’ll skirt Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument on tantalizing twisties. All of SR 12 is breathtaking; it is something out of a dream. It takes you through a series of red rock formations and then winds along a ridge with sheer drops on either side. Forget about guard rails and shoulders; you’ll feel as if you are riding the sky. Cook a corner too fast on this stretch and you’ll wish you were wearing a parachute. This area, more than any other I have ever ridden, is a near-religious experience.

The red rocks of Utah along SR 12.
It was tough to keep going on Utah SR 12…I wanted to stop after every corner for photos.
One of many scenes along Utah SR 12. You need to ride this road. It’s one of the best.

State Route 12 tees into SR 24, but you’ll be able to see Capitol Reef National Park long before you get to SR 24. Head east on SR 24 toward Hanksville and you’ll ride through much of the accessible portion of Capitol Reef. It’s perhaps the least known of Utah’s national parks, but its scenery is as stunning as any of the other parks.

Capitol Reef and Utah SR 24.

Only a portion of Capitol Reef is visible from SR 24, but it is outstanding. Hundreds of miles of unpaved roads into Capitol Reef offer similar scenic views. The park’s unique white sandstone domes (similar to the U.S. Capitol building) were formed by a warp in the Earth’s crust 65 million years ago. “Reef” refers to any barrier to travel, and when you see these formations, you’ll certainly understand the name.

Another scene along SR 24 heading east.
Gabriel, Juan Carlos, and Uncle Joe along SR 24 after rolling through Capitol Reef. We rode 5000 miles through the western United States on brand new 250cc CSC motorcycles. It was a great ride with great guys.

State Route 24 follows the Fremont River through Capitol Reef National Park, and as it twists and turns on its way to Hanksville, you’ll be thanking me for turning you on to these very special roads.  The Whispering Sands hotel is a good, clean place to spend the night, and Duke’s Slickrock Grill is a great place for dinner.  Try the trout; it’s wonderful.  And don’t miss the photo op standing next to Duke.


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A Favorite: Hotel Mision Cataviña

Located 297 miles south of the US border, Cataviña makes for a good spot to stop after your first day’s push into Baja.   You might also try to make it all the way to Guerrero Negro, but that’s another 140 miles.   When traveling in Baja through the mountains and all the small towns from Ensenada to El Rosario, you can’t grind out big miles like you can on a US freeway.  And, trust me on this, you don’t want to travel at night in Baja.   A 300-mile day in Baja when you’re starting at the US border is a good day, and that puts you smack dab in Cataviña.

Cataviña’s location on the Baja peninsula.
It’s a full day’s drive from TJ to Cataviña.

What’s cool about Cataviña is that it is in one of Baja’s boulder fields, as depicted in the big picture at the top of this blog.  Those are just flat wild…the stark landscape, the giant boulders, the Cardon and Cirio cacti…it’s all impressive.  The boulders were formed by wind erosion, which is kind of amazing.  I didn’t believe that at first, but I checked with one of my Cal Poly colleagues in the Geology Department (I’m a retired university professor) and he confirmed it for me.  Wow.

That’s a Cirio plant in front (the long thin one), and a giant Cardon cactus behind it, all in the boulder fields of Cataviña.

There’s only one decent hotel in Cataviña and it’s the Hotel Mision Cataviña.  It’s gone through a number of name changes in the 30+ years I’ve been traveling in Baja (the La Pinta, the Desert Inn, and maybe one or two others), but the hotel has stayed the same and that’s a good thing.   The Hotel Mision Cataviña has a good restaurant and bar.  It also has a nice swimming pool, and that pool has been just what the doctor ordered for me and my friends on more than a few occasions riding Mexico Highway 1 through Baja.

Parked in front of the Hotel Mision Cataviña. I’ve toured Baja on all kinds of bikes. The blue Triumph Tiger was my ride on this trip.
My friends and I once rode all the way to Cabo and back on 150cc CSC Motorcycles Mustang replicas.  You can read about that adventure here.  We spent the night in Cataviña.

At around $80 a night it’s a bit pricier than most other Baja hotels, but it’s still inexpensive by US standards.  There’s really nothing else in the Cataviña area for either hotels or restaurants other than a concrete-floored hotel on the other side of the highway.  We had to stay in that other hotel once when the Hotel Mision Cataviña was full.  That was more than 20 years ago and my wife still mentions it when she gets mad at me.  Take my advice on this:  The Hotel Mision Cataviña is where you want to stay.

One the Hotel Mision Cataviña’s coutyards. It’s a classy place.

I enjoy eating in the Hotel Mision Cataviña’s restaurant even if I’m just passing through.  If you let the staff know you’re in a hurry, they’ll get you in and out.  If you don’t, things kind of run on a Cataviña pace.  That’s cool if you’re staying for the night; it’s not if you’re trying to make Guerrero Negro.  I’ve done that, but it is a very long day.  The restaurant and bar have kind of an arched brick roof in the dining room.  It’s fun. As you might imagine, they are well stocked with Tequila and Tecate.

Joe Gresh enjoying chicken tacos during a brief stop at the Hotel Mision Cataviña restaurant.
They look good, don’t they?

If you’re traveling with a bunch of guys and you don’t mind sleeping 8 or 9 to a room, the Hotel Mision Cataviña built a separate just to the north of the main hotel and it has a dormitory style room.  I don’t know what it costs, but it’s got to be (on a per head basis) cheaper than one of the double rooms.  The rooms are nice.  The place is clean, it’s air conditioned, and its comfortable.  The only issue with the new building is that the hotel runs a diesel generator all night, and if you stay in the new building, it might keep you up.

Fuel is less of a concern today than it used to be.  We used to buy bottled gasoline from enterprising guys by the side of the road, but there’s a convenience store just across Highway 1 from the hotel now with gas pumps, so I think getting gasolina today is less of an issue.

If you would like to know more about the Hotel Mision Cataviña, you can do so here.


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The Enfield Baja Adventure

Shortly before the pandemic began, Uncle Joe and yours truly borrowed two Royal Enfields from Royal Enfield North America and toured Baja.  One was the new 650 Interceptor, and I liked it so much I bought one when I came home.  The other was a 500cc Bullet, and, well, you might want to read the blogs to understand how we felt about it.  Truth be told, the Bullet was probably better than we perceived it to be (that was because the dealer did a half-assed job prepping it for us).  Nah, that’s not fair (it implies the dealer did half of what he should have).  But there’s no expression for 10%-assed, and even that might be giving the dealer too much credit.  But I don’t want to spoil the story for you.  You can get to the Enfield adventures here.


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Bangkok’s Soi Cowboy

I miss a lot of things about our pre-COVID days, and one is the foreign travel.  I love heading to exotic cities all over the world, and one at the top of my list is Bangkok.  I’ve been there a few times on assorted secret missions.  These photos are from a blog I wrote for CSC Motorcycles a few years ago, and I thought I would share them here.

Soi Cowboy (“soi” sort of means street) is a famous Bangkok road that played a role in the movie Hangover II and another movie named, well, Soi Cowboy (a movie I haven’t seen, although I’ll look for it).   It’s sort of an entertainment district with a lot of clubs.  There were a lot of photo ops centered on two of my interests – food and two-wheeled transportation.  With that as an intro, here we go.

These guys in orange vests are motorcycle taxi dudes. They carve paths through traffic as if it wasn’t there. It’s an amazing thing to see.
One of the many food carts and clubs on Soi Cowboy.
Another food cart. I had my Nikon D3300 (a relatively small but incredibly capable DSLR) on its “auto ISO” setting, which basically means it runs the ISO up as high as it thinks it needs to be to get a good shot. Some of these photos were at ISO 12,800.
Scooters and small-displacement motorcycles dominate Bangkok.  Here are a few scooters lined up on Soi Cowboy.
More Thai street food.
A look down Asoke (that’s the street name) from a pedestrian overpass.  Soi Cowboy is just off of Asoke.
The Bangkok grand prix.
Good buddy Kevin and friend. Rain? Not a problem!
A Thai SUV.
A Thai taxi scooter in action. Scenes like this are common throughout Bangkok.

One more thing, and that’s a video I shot just off Soi Cowboy showing the scooter action in vibrant downtown Bangkok.  It sure was fun.


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Yellowstone National Park

Man, it was cold.  It was the coldest we would be on our 18-day, 5000-mile ride around the western United States.  Yellowstone National Park was our destination and we wanted to arrive early.  Baja John was doing the navigating and the trip planning, and we were leaving early that morning out of Cody, Wyoming, at 5:00 a.m. to beat the tourist traffic in Yellowstone.  I had an electric vest; our Chinese and Colombian guests did not.  I knew they had to be hurting.  I had my vest dialed all the way up and I was.  Did I mention it was cold?

So, about that big photo above:  That’s Yellowstone Falls on the Yellowstone River.  There are something like 10 waterfalls in Yellowstone National Park.  I’ve only seen the one above.  That means I have at least nine reasons to return.

Back to the story.  I did mention it was cold riding into Yellowstone that morning, didn’t I?

Following Baja John into Yellowstone. That trip was 6 years ago, and I still get cold looking at this photo.
Another shot entering Yellowstone National Park from the east.  That’s Baja John in front of me…we were dressed for the cold, but I think our guests found it to be a little colder than the weather they are used to in southern China.

The trip was a wild one…18 days on the road with a dozen guys from China, two from Colombia, and all on free motorcycles provided by Zongshen via CSC Motorcycles.  CSC was the importer, I was the go-between spanning the CSC/Zongshen interface (and two continents), and while we were arranging the initial shipment Zongshen asked if I had any ideas to promote the bikes in the US.  Wow, did I ever!

In Zongshen’s main offices, with key Zongshen execs viewing photos from my rides in the US and Baja. Sue grabbed this photo and it’s one of my favorites. Without realizing it, I was selling those guys on giving us 15 motorcycles to ride around the US.  This looks like a staged photo.  It’s not.

That ride became the Western America Adventure Tour, and it was a hoot.   I mean, think about:  Every angry and ignorant asshole on the Internet was condemning Chinese bikes and here we were, with 15 of the things just arrived in America, setting off on a 5,000 mile ride from So Cal to Sturgis, west across the US to the Pacific Ocean, and then riding the Pacific coast back to So Cal.  On that epic ride we didn’t have a single breakdown and that was giving the Internet trolls meltdowns.  It was a grand adventure.

But I digress.  Back to Yellowstone.  On our ride, we hit every National Park along the way, and Yellowstone was one of the best.   Prior to that ride, I’d never been to Yellowstone and I had always wanted to see it.  And for good reason…it is (in my opinion) the quintessential National Park.  Yellowstone is surreal, with sulfur-laden steams and ponds spewing forth, majestic views, waterfalls, bison, bears, deer, elk, wolves, geysers, and more.   It was a first for me.  I was a Yellowstone green bean.

When we entered Yellowstone, we arrived so early the gates were unmanned and we entered for free.  But it had been a long, cold ride in from Cody and we were nearly out of gas.  My fuel light was blinking as we entered the park and I didn’t know for sure if there would be gas in Yellowstone.  John felt confident there would be, and he was right.   I saw the Sinclair sign up ahead, but before we got there, we had a close encounter of the bison kind.  We were cruising along at about 30 mph, and all of a sudden I noticed this locomotive next to me.  I was too slow to realize what it was until I was alongside, but our chase vehicle driver John (we had two Johns and one Juan on this ride) grabbed this photo…I had passed within 10 feet of this monster!

Just as I went past my big buff buddy above, he  exhaled.   In the frigid Yellowstone air, fog came out of his nostrils.   It was like riding alongside a steam locomotive.

Here’s another cool shot in Yellowstone:  The Continental Divide.  We had crossed it several times on the ride to Yellowstone already, but I think this is the first time I stopped for a photo.

Sometimes the photos almost take themselves.

One of the many attractions in Yellowstone is Old Faithful.   Here’s a shot of the geyser in its full glory.

It was one of those motorcycle rides that was so much fun it made me feel a little guilty.  (That’s a Jewish thing; maybe some of our Catholic readers will understand it, too.)  I felt bad because Sue wasn’t enjoying the trip with me.  So I fixed that.  A few years later Sue and I hopped in the Subie, pointed the car north, and a few days later I rolled into Yellowstone National Park again (this time with my wife).  Naturally, I grabbed a few more photos.

Peering into the valley carved by the Yellowstone River.
Ah, the bison. This was really cool stuff.
Click. Click. Click.
A photo of Sue in the Subie photographing a bison.
Wow.

I’m not a geologist, but geology seems to me to be a pretty interesting subject and there sure are a bunch of geological things in Yellowstone.  Like the bubbling and burbling pits and pools you most definitely do not want to fall into.

You get the idea.  In doing a bit of Internet research on Yellowstone, I came across this Yellowstone map.  It is a good way to get the lay of the land up there in Wyoming, but visiting Yellowstone National Park would be even better.

You can learn a little bit more about Yellowstone as a destination (and how to get there) by reading an article I wrote for Motorcycle Classics magazine.  It’s a cool place and I’ve never met anyone who felt like visiting Yellowstone was anything other than a marvelous experience.  Trust me on this:  Yellowstone National Park belongs on your bucket list.


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Would you like to read more Motorcycle Classics Destinations articles?  Hey, just click here or better yet, buy your own copy of Destinations.


One more thing…if you’d like to learn more about the RX3 motorcycle and our 5,000-mile Western America Adventure Ride, you should do two things:  Buy yourself a copy of 5000 Miles at 8000 RPM, and watch Joe Gresh’s video:

Zuo!

You guys remember good buddy Sergeant Zuo from the Dajiu and Arjiu ride across China (Dajiu and Arjiu are me and Joe Gresh, as christened by our Chinese riding buddies).

Zuo hiking the Ma Ya Snow Mountain in China at an altitude of 4,500 meters.

Zuo is a great guy and he and I correspond regularly.   He wrote a guest blog, and here it is (first in Chinese, and then followed by an English translation).


夜雨秋 2021
残荷 飞雪雷音寺 荻花 瑟瑟恐龙湾

我想该去转转吧,牵马出槽,天气很阴,气温很低。很多时候,连一个说话的人都没有,孤独就成了很好的朋友,不是有人说“孤独,只有天才和疯子才配有,你充其量是寂寞罢了。”我不知道自己是寂寞还是孤独,总之,为了一个梦境我想该去趟恐龙湾地质公园,为了远方的牵念该去趟雷音寺。

好像,自从新小三(赛科龙RX3s)仰或说是大黑吧入手到现在1000多公里这是第一次跑这么远。离开市区天空好像在零零星星的飘雪,毕竟今天是大雪节气,哦,天慢慢的冷了,一个拐弯处,隔着头盔都感觉到了凛冽,最冷的时间到了,我真的很怕,今年好像格外的冷,降温了,马路上没有几辆车。

新小三良好的动力储备,游刃有余的操控性能感觉真好,感觉滕森轮胎的低温抓地性能比起正新轮胎好点,自动感应大灯在进入隧道的时候很是给力。磨合到了1000公里,是该跑跑高速了,时速到了120km/h还是没有再拉起来,毕竟才1000公里的里程,极速还是再忍忍吧,人就是这么的自私,自己的车总是谨小慎微,给厂家试骑的时候却是档档见红。

寒冷的天气,大雄宝殿也挂上了厚厚的门帘,是不是菩萨也怕冷,干净的雷音寺没有一个人,香火依然,庄严依然,再次叩头的时候前额还是有些隐隐作痛,实际上,菩萨也罢,神灵也罢,谁也救不了谁,磕个头、念声佛号也就是消除自己的贪心、 嗔心、痴心、嫉妒、慢心。明明知道,哪有什么菩萨,要有菩萨也是在老家炕上躺着的那尊佛,为了那尊佛的康健,还是去了寺庙,如果非要给皈依一个合理的解释,那就是给自己灵魂找个家,让孤独不再孤独,让流浪不再流浪,让牵念可以穿越时空,也许这就是菩萨吧,也许这就是佛吧,但是,我真的很喜欢寺庙的幽静,喜欢和那尊泥菩萨的对视,喜欢听那念佛声声。

恐龙湾池塘的残荷一如既往的展现着它的忧伤,恰有几片雪花的飘落,还有那瑟瑟的荻花,那随风摇曳的更多的是一种无法言表的曾经,朋友说过他喜欢瑟瑟的荻花,那是生命的底色,一如广袤荒凉的西部环境。

站立慢速骑行在小径,身边池塘、残荷、荻花……环境,静的可以听到自己的心跳,柔和的发动机声音还是惊起了不知名的大鸟,把新小三停在铁道旁,远远的看着那个隧道,多少年了,还是为曾经的年轻,曾经的莽撞心有余悸。
—— 2021.12.07 兰州 大雪节气


What, hey…you don’t speak Mandarin?  Well okay, then…here you go!


Night Rain and Autumn Breeze 2021
Remnant Lotus Feixue Leiyin Temple Dihua Sese Dinosaur Bay

I think I should go around, lead the horse out of the trough, the weather is very cloudy and the temperature is very low. Very often, loneliness becomes a good friend without even a single speaker. It’s not like someone said, “Lonely, only geniuses and lunatics have it. You are lonely at best.” I don’t know if I am lonely or alone. In short, I think I should go to Hanauma Bay Geopark for a dream, and Leiyin Temple for the memory of distant places.
It seems that this is the first time since the new junior three (Seccoron RX3s) started to run this far, more than 1,000 kilometers. Leaving the city, the sky seems to be fluttering. After all, it’s a heavy snow festival today. Oh, the sky is slowly getting cold. I can feel the coldness through the helmet at a corner. The coldest time is here, I’m really I’m afraid, it seems to be extremely cold this year. The temperature has dropped. There are not many cars on the road.

The new small three has a good power reserve and easy handling performance. It feels that the low temperature grip performance of Tenson tires is better than that of Zhengxin tires. The auto-sensing headlights are very powerful when entering the tunnel. After running-in to 1000 kilometers, it is time to run at high speed. After the speed reaches 120km/h, it is still not pulled up. After all, the mileage is only 1000 kilometers. It is better to bear with the top speed. People are so selfish, and their cars are always cautious. When I gave the manufacturer a test ride, the stalls turned red.

In the cold weather, the Daxiong Hall also hung a thick curtain, whether the Bodhisattva is afraid of the cold, there is no one in the clean Leiyin Temple, the incense is still, the solemnity is still, there is still a slight pain in the forehead when I kowtow again, in fact, the Bodhisattva Forget it, gods, no one can save anyone, knocking one’s head and chanting Buddha’s name is to eliminate one’s greed, hatred, infatuation, jealousy, and slowness. Obviously knowing that there is no bodhisattva. If you want to have a bodhisattva, you will also go to the temple for the sake of the health of the Buddha. If you have to give a reasonable explanation for refuge, it is to give your own soul. Find a home, let loneliness no longer be lonely, let wandering no longer wander, let Qiannian can travel through time and space, maybe this is the Bodhisattva, maybe this is the Buddha, but I really like the quietness of the temple, and I like to be with that statue. The Bodhisattva looks at each other and likes to hear the sound of chanting Buddha.

The remnant lotus in the pond of Hanauma Bay shows its sadness as always. There are just a few snowflakes falling, and the rustling flowers. The swaying wind is more of an unspeakable past. My friend said He likes the rustling Dihua, which is the background of life, just like the vast and desolate western environment.

Standing and riding slowly on the trail, surrounded by ponds, remnants of lotus, Dihua… the environment, you can quietly hear your heartbeat, the soft engine sound still startled the unknown big bird, and stopped Xin Xiaosan by the railroad. Looking at the tunnel from a distance, for so many years, still for the youth and recklessness of the past.
—- 2021.12.07 Lanzhou Snow Festival


If you’d like to know more about our ride across China (and it was a great one) you can read the story in Riding China:  Running with the Cult of the Zong.   Don’t wait for the movie (although there have been a couple of YouTubes on our grand adventure riding through the Ancient Kingdom, which you can view below).


Highway 395 Closed

Highway 395 closed yesterday just north of Bridgeport due to snow.  I know that road well.  I’ve ridden it a bunch of times and it’s a favorite, but wow, the weather can turn on a dime up there.  Once you leave Bishop heading north, the elevation goes up abruptly, and in the next 30 miles or so it can go from cold to damn cold mighty quickly.

Highway 395 in warmer times. As I recall, temperatures were in the triple digits when I shot this photo around Manzanar.

I once rode my KLR 650 up to Lake Tahoe on a press junket and the weather was okay.  Moderate, not too cold, nice riding weather on the roads in and around Tahoe.  The ride home was something else, though.  Tahoe is pretty high in elevation and I dropped maybe two or three thousand feet coming down the mountain to Highway 395.  That’s when the cold really set in.  I had good gear on, but no electric vest, and the cold was brutal.  I stopped at the Bridgeport Inn maybe a hundred miles down the road and went in for breakfast.  Well, that’s not entirely true.  I went in to warm up, and I wanted to just sit there for a couple of hours sipping coffee after breakfast.  It worked, but it took a while.

The KLR 650 on Highway 395, with the Sierra Nevada Mountains in the background. It was cold going north; it was way colder coming home.  This is an interesting photo – you can see the moon peeking out just above the mountains.

You know, the funny thing is that another hundred miles or so south when I rolled through Adelanto on the 395, it was so hot I took most of that gear off.  The temperature had gone from near freezing on the 395 north of Bridgeport to nearly 100 degrees down in the desert.

The KLR 650 was a good road bike and a great traveling companion.  I rode it all over Baja and through a lot of the American Southwest.  It’s gone down the road now (I sold it to a friend of a friend who may still have it).  Good fuel economy, it could touch 100 mph on a good day, and the thing was just comfortable.  The ergonomics were perfect for me. It was was one of the great ones.

I remember the bad weather rides way better than any of the ones with clear skies and moderate temperatures.  That ride back from Tahoe will stay with me for a long time.


More epic rides are here.