ExNotes Product Review: 4×12 Bushnell Banner Scope

By Joe Berk

Bushnell scopes have been around forever and they are kind of a generic scope…just as effective as the name brand medication but at a fraction of the cost.  I’ve had several that came with rifles I bought, but I never bought a new one until recently.  I’m glad I did.  I bought the Bushnell Banner 4×12 and it’s a great scope.

The 4×12 Bushnell Banner scope. It’s a surprisingly good scope for well under $100.

The story goes like this:  I won a Ruger No. 1 in 243 Winchester in an online auction about 15 years ago.  The rifle was a 200th year Liberty model, it looked good, and I stashed it in the safe.  I shot it for the first time a month ago, and that’s when I learned I had an accuracy issue.  The Ruger came with a period-correct 4×12 Weaver (long since discontinued), which provided plenty of magnification but my groups were embarrassing.

The .243 Ruger No. 1 on the range. The rifle is wearing the new Bushnell Banner 4×12 scope in this photo.

Let’s go tangential for a second or two:  The “4×12” I use above refers to the scope’s variable magnification, which ranges from 4 times actual size to 12 times actual size.  With a good scope (one offering optical clarity), you can see the bullet holes in the target at 100 yards when the scope is zoomed up to 12 times actual size.

The Ruger American Bicentennial inscription. It’s on all Rugers made in 1976.

For hunting, I always prefer a straight 4-power scope (i.e., a nonvariable) because of its wider field of view and the fact that I can still hold a pretty tight group with a 4-power scope.  Magnifying the target four times is good enough for hunting.  That’s especially true on a deer-sized target, but it’s good enough even on rabbits.  I’ve sent a lot of Texas jacks to the promised land with a simple 4-power Redfield on my .30 06 Ruger No. 1.

The scope companies pretty much all say that you should keep a variable scope at low magnification to acquire the target, and then zoom it up for a more precise aim.  But I’ll tell you that’s just marketing hype, it’s laughable, and it’s a lot of baloney.  When I’m hunting and I see a game animal, the adrenal glands go into overdrive.  It’s all I can do to remember to take the safety off, and I can remember a few times when I forgot to do that.  The thought of seeing a target, acquiring it in the scope at low magnification, taking the safety off, lowering the rifle, increasing the zoom, raising the rifle again, reacquiring the target, and then squeezing the trigger is ludicrous.  Nope, for hunting purposes, a straight 4-power scope is the way to go for me.  On the other hand, when I’m on the range, I just leave the variable scopes at their highest magnification.  In short, I don’t need a zoomable scope.  But the marketing guys know better, I guess, and that means they weather vane to variable scopes.  That’s pretty much all you see these days.

But I digress.  Let’s get back to the main attraction, and that’s the new Bushnell Banner 4×12 scope on my .243 No. 1 rifle.  This all started when I loaded some brass good buddy Johnnie G sent my way.  The rifle would not consistently hold a zero, and even when it did, it shot grapefruit-sized groups.  My thought was that the old 4×12 Weaver scope that came with the rifle had conked out, so I replaced it with another inexpensive scope I had laying around (an older Bushnell Banner 3×9 scope that is probably 50 years old).  While mounting the older 3×9 Bushnell, I checked both Ruger rings (front and rear) to make sure they were secure.  They seemed to be, but they were not (more on that below).  I took the No. 1 (now wearing the older model Bushnell Banner) to the range.  The accuracy situation did not improve.

The 4-12X Weaver scope that came with the 200th year .243 Ruger No. 1. That scope may still be good; I’ll have to mount it on another rifle to confirm that.

So I removed the older 3×9 Bushnell and the Ruger rings.  That’s when I discovered that the front ring was not secure.  It had felt like it was, but it fooled me (which is not too hard to do).  Ruger provides rings with their centerfire rifles and they are good, but the rings on this rifle were muey screwed up.  The clamp (the bolt with the angled head) on the front ring was mangled, and both the nut and the clamp were gunked up with some sort of adhesive (probably Loctite, but who knows).   I think what had happened was the clamp could be tightened on the mangled part of the clamp’s angled surface.  The buggered-up clamp was not properly positioned in the mounting surface and the caked-on adhesive compounded the felony.  Under recoil, the forward ring was moving around.

A Ruger scope ring. Ruger provides two of these with each of their centerfire rifles.
The Ruger scope ring clamp. It’s a bolt with an angled surface (denoted by the right arrow) that clamps onto a machined crescent on the rifle’s scope mounting surface. The threads on mine were caked with an adhesive.
The Ruger scope ring nut. It’s what threads on to the clamp shaft in the photo above.

 

The Ruger No. 1’s forward scope ring. This was not firmly mounted because the clamp had been damaged by Bubba gunsmithing.  God must love Bubbas; He sure made a lot of them.

I recut the clamp ‘s angled surface with a file to eliminate the mangled portion and reblued the clamp using Birchwood Casey Cold Blue, and I wire-brushed as much of the adhesive as I could from the clamp’s threaded shaft with a bore brush.  I then worked the clamp into the nut until I cleaned out the remaining adhesive on the nut.  I reinstalled the ring and satisfied myself that this time it was secure.

The Bushnell Banner box. The scope was nicely packaged.
The Bushnell Banner’s parallax adjustment ring. These really work.
The Bushnell Banner’s quick adjust focusing rear ring. It’s a nice feature.
The Bushnell Banner’s adjustment knobs after their covers had been removed. These have a nice feel, with a distinct tactile click for each 1/4-inch adjustment. You don’t need any tools to make these adjustments. It’s first class.

When my new 4×12 Bushnell Banner scope arrived a few days after I ordered it on Amazon, I was impressed with its appearance.  I even liked the box.  I looked through the scope and was impressed with its optical clarity.  These inexpensive Banner scopes have continued to improve over the years, and this one looks great.

The Bushnell Banner’s operator’s manual. It contains basic information about mounting and boresighting the scope.

The Bushnell scope has a lifetime warranty and it came with what I thought was an impressively thick operating manual.  The manual is printed in five languages (English, French, German, Italian, and Spanish), so it was only one fifth as thick as it first appeared to be.  But it was still a good manual.  The scope also came with lens covers, which is a nice touch.

The Bushnell has other features that are important to me.  It has a quick focus ring at the rear to focus the reticle, and it has a parallax adjustment feature on the objective end (the front of the scope).   Parallax adjustment has become increasingly important to me; it minimizes the scope’s susceptibility to slightly different eye positions.   You adjust for parallax by moving your eye around and making sure the reticle stays centered on the target.

The Bushnell has removable windage and elevation adjustment dial covers, and windage and elevation adjustment can be made by hand (no special tools are required).  Each click represents 1/4-inch of movement on a 100-yard target, which is pretty much the standard on scopes.

The Bushnell has a 40mm objective lens, which I think is about right.  It looks right and still allows the scope to be mounted low on the rifle.  Some scopes go bigger with 50mm objectives, but I think they look silly.  These bugeye scopes have to sit higher on the rifle (which makes sighting through them difficult).   Nope, for me a 40mm objective is as big as I care or need to go.

Although I own a boresigting device that mounts on the barrel, I prefer not to use it.  The thought of potentially damaging a rifle’s crown, which a boresighting device can do, is not something I want to entertain.  I boresight the old-fashioned way:  I’ll set the rifle up in a rest, look through the bore (from the breech end) and move the rifle around until a 50-yard target is centered in the bore.  Then, without moving the rifle, I’ll adjust the scope’s windage and elevation until the reticle is approximately centered on the target.  Once I’ve done that, I’ll fire one shot and see where it hits.  I’ve actually done this and had the impact be on the target with that first shot, but it took four shots this time.  After each shot, I adjusted the windage and elevation to get the next shot two inches below my point of aim at 50 yards, and then switch to a target at 100 yards to finalize the adjustment.

On the range at the West End Gun Club. The first target is at 50 yards; the second set of targets is at 100 yards. I used the first target for boresighting and initial scope adjustment.
To boresight the scope, you look for the target through the rifle’s bore. It appears to be a little offset in this photo because it was difficult to get the camera aligned with the bore, but you get the idea. You want the target centered when looking through the barrel.
I used PPU (PRVI Partizan) 100-grain jacketed soft point bullets for this round of load development. The Ruger has a 1 twist in 10 inches rate. A 100-grain bullet is right at the edge of stability with this twist rate; lighter bullets should be more accurate.
Another shot of the PPU 100-grain bullets.  There’s a long bearing area on that bullet.
I used two propellants for this test series: IMR 7828 and IMR 4166. The IMR 4166 performed better than the IMR 7828 load and it reduced the copper fouling in the bore.

For this outing, I had loaded two groups of .243 ammo, both using PRVI Partizan 100-grain jacketed soft point bullets.  One load had 43.0 grains of IMR 7828 propellant; the other group had 34.5 grains of IMR 4166 propellant.  I used the IMR 4166 ammo last.  IMR 4166 was one of those new powders that is supposed to not leave copper deposited in the rifling (I’ll explain why I used the past tense in a second).  I wanted to use it to minimize the cleaning after shooting the rifle.

So how did it all work?  The IMR 7828 load didn’t perform well as the IMR 4166 load.  The IMR 7828 load was shooting 2 1/2 to 4-inch groups.  Part of that was due to the Ruger’s twist rate (1 in 10), which is marginal for a heavy (for the .243) 100-grain bullet.  But I was surprised with the last group of the day, which was with IMR 4166 powder.

The last shots of the day, and the last of the loads with IMR 4166 propellant.

Four of the five shots went into 0.889 inch; the fifth shot opened the group up to 1.635 inches.  That fact that the IMR 4166 grouped much better might be due to the fact the propellant may have removed some of the copper fouling (it appeared to have a lot less copper fouling when I cleaned the rifle later), it might be due to the fact that IMR 4166 is a faster powder compared to IMR 7828, it might have been me, or it might be a statistical fluke.  You might think this would push me to develop a load with IMR 4166, but unfortunately the powder has been discontinued (I’m on my last bottle).  Future load development work for this rifle will be with lighter bullets and other powders with burn rates similar to IMR 4166.  Varget comes to mind. I’ll keep you posted.

I know, I’m digressing again.  I started out with the intent to do a product review on the Bushnell Banner 4×12 scope, which I think I did, but I morphed into a bit of load development work for the .243 Ruger No. 1.  On my intended topic:  The Bushnell Banner is a great scope, and it performs way beyond what it’s sub-$100 price would indicate (I paid $72 for mine on Amazon).  If you’re looking for a good low-priced scope, the Bushnell is hard to beat.  I like it so much I’m going to by another one for another Ruger, but that’s a story for another time.


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Ruger’s .357 Magnum Blackhawk

If I had to select one handgun above all others, my choice would be easy.  It’s Ruger’s .357 Magnum Blackhawk.  I don’t have one, but that’s something I aim to fix in the near term.  I’m watching two .357 Blackhawks on the auction block right now.  One is that drop dead gorgeous brass frame Old Model you see in the big photo above.  That one is not just any Blackhawk, either.  It was previously owned by Hank Williams, Junior.

The Hank Williams Blackhawk has a lot going for it.   It’s the Old Model Blackhawk, which has a feel when cocked similar to a Colt Single Action Army. There’s the provenance (this one has a letter attesting to its prior ownership and its factory brass grip frame).  And, there’s that rare (and highly desirable) brass grip frame.  Ruger only made a few of those.

Winning the auction for the Hank Williams Blackhawk is a long shot.  My backup is to buy a new Blackhawk, and I have my eye on the one shown in the photo below.

A new New Model Ruger .357 Blackhawk with a 6 1/2-inch barrel.

I guess I need to go tangential for a minute and explain this business about Old Model and New Model Blackhawks.  The basic difference between the Old Model and the New Model is that the Old Model can fire if you drop it on a hard surface.  The New Model incorporates a transfer bar to prevent that from happening.  You should carry an Old Model with the hammer resting on an empty chamber; you can safely carry a New Model with all six chambers loaded.  Naturally, geezers like me prefer the look and feel of the Old Model (and we tend not to drop our guns), but the new Model Model is every bit as good and every bit as accurate.  Geezers just like old stuff.

I found a used 200th year stainless steel one on Gunbroker about a dozen years ago, I won the auction for it, and I ran the equivalent of a lead mine’s annual output down the bore (including some ultra-heavy 200-grain loads).  I am the only guy I know who wore out a .357 Blackhawk.  The loading latch wouldn’t stay open, and when I returned it for repair to Ruger, they were as amazed as I was that I wore it out.  It was beyond repair, they told me, but as a good will gesture they paid me what I paid for it.  Nobody, but nobody, has better customer service than Ruger.

A 25-yard group with the .357 Blackhawk.  The Blackhawk will do this all day long.

Part of the reason the .357 Blackhawk I describe above went south, I think, is that it was stainless steel.  I have it in my mind that stainless steel is softer than blued carbon steel, and I think they just don’t hold up as well under a steady diet of heavy loads.  That’s why my next .357 Blackhawk will be blue steel.

To me, the Blackhawk is a “do anything” .357 Magnum.  It’s a good buy in today’s inflated world, it’s a solid defense round, you can hunt with it, and it is accurate.  I like the longer barrel for the sight radius.   You can believe this or not, but I can easily hit targets at 100 yards with a .357 Blackhawk and the right load.

Typical .357 Blackhawk groups.

It’s been at least a couple of years now that I’ve been without a .357 Blackhawk, and like I said, I aim to fix that problem.  I’ll let you know which of the above two guns (a brand new blue steel Blackhawk, or the Hank Williams Old Model) I pick up.  Most likely it won’t be the Hank Williams revolver (competition and bidding will be intense on that one and it will probably be too rich for my blood), but the New Model will make me just as happy. Good times lie ahead.  Stay tuned.


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More Tales of the Gun!

A Tale of Two Bicentennial No. 1 Rugers

I’ve been a Ruger No. 1 fan for close to 50 years.  It started with one I’ve written about before, and that is a Ruger No. 1A chambered in the awesome .30 06 Government cartridge.  I’ve spent time on the range and I’ve hunted with this rifle, and it is probably my all-time favorite firearm.

What attracted me to the No. 1 was my father’s fascination with the rifle (he never owned one, but he wanted to), the beautiful and exquisitely figured walnut Ruger used on these rifles, and their style.   To me, they just look right.  My fixation started in 1976.  Ruger roll-stamped every firearm they manufactured with “Made in the 200th Year of American Liberty” that year.

Rugers with this roll-marked stamp are known as Liberty or Bicentennial guns.
Like I said, the walnut on my Ruger .30 06 is exquisite on both sides.
As I said, the highly-figured walnut is exquisite on both sides of this .30 06.

The Ruger No. 1 came in different configurations, and the ones you see here are what Ruger called the 1A.  They had 22-inch barrels, iron sights, and the Alex Henry fore end (that’s the fore end with the notch at the front).  There are all sorts of suppositions about what why the notch was originally included on the Farquharson rifles that influenced the Ruger No. 1 design, but no one seems to know for sure.  I just like the look of the thing.  To me, these rifles are elegant.  They’re not particularly light, but they’re short and it’s easy to get around in the woods with one.  Back in the day, I bought a straight 4X Redfield scope and a still prefer a 4X non-variable scope for hunting (even though it’s tough to find one these days; high-powered variable scopes are all the rage).

Those west Texas days back in the ’70s were good.  We spent a lot of time (essentially every weekend) out in the desert north of Fabens chasing jackrabbits and coyotes, and the No. 1 you see here sent a lot of those critters to the Promised Land.  Jackrabbits were grand fun.  It was hard to believe how big some of them were.

The accuracy load for my .30 06 No. 1 is the 130-grain Hornady jacketed softpoint bullet over a max load of IMR 4320 propellant.  IMR 4320 is no longer in production, but I’ve got about 10 pounds of it so I’m good for a while.  The rifle will put that load into an inch at 100 yards all day long, and the 130 grain Hornady bullet seems to be perfect for jackrabbits.  Yeah, I know, that’s maybe a little more power than needed for Peter Cottontail, but hey, like Donald Rumsfeld used to say: You go to war with the army you have.

Gee whiz…a group I shot 40 years ago!

The .30 06 also does well with other loads.  I was on the range with the ammo I had on hand a week or so ago with heavier bullets and I was pleased with the results.  I tried 180 grain Remington bullets loaded on top of 48.0 grains of IMR 4064.  Those loads shot low and had perceptibly heavier recoil, but they grouped under an inch at 100 yards.

Three shots at 100 yards with the Ruger .30 06 No. 1A. The load was the 180 grain Remington jacketed soft point bullet and 48.0 grains of IMR 4064, with military brass and a CCI 200 primer.

The title of this blog is A Tale of Two Bicentennial No. 1 Rugers, and that brings us to the second rifle.  I was in Ohio on a secret mission about 15 years ago and the guy I visited there learned of my interest in guns.  He took me to a local shop that only sold through an online auction (that was the gunshop’s business model).  When we arrived, I quickly noticed another Ruger No. 1A, this time chambered in .243 Winchester.   It was a bicentennial rifle, it looked to be a near twin to my .30 06 1A, and I had to have it.  I tried to buy it while I was there and have shipped to my FFL holder in California, but the owner confirmed what my friend told me…I had to bid on it at auction.  I did, and I won the auction at $650.  Bear in mind that these rifles’ list price in 1976 was $265, and they typically sold at $239 back then.  If you think I got scalped, think again.  I won the auction, and the MSRP on these rifles today is something around $2,000.  And the ones made back in the 1970s are, in my opinion, of much higher quality in terms of walnut figure, checkering, and other attributes.

A .243 Winchester Ruger No. 1. It wears a period correct El Paso Weaver 4×12 telescopic sight.
The left side of the .243 No. 1.
Ruger used to put fancy walnut on the No. 1 rifles. Today, not so much.
A fancy walnut, red pad Ruger No. 1. Sweet!
Like the .30 06 No. 1 featured above, this .243 is also a Liberty gun.

Most recently, good buddy John gave me a bunch of assorted brass and I started loading bits and pieces of it.  I loaded the .30 40 Krag and wrote about it a week or so ago.  There were a few pieces of .243 Winchester brass and that had me thinking about the .243 No. 1 in this blog.  You see, I bought that rifle, stuck it in the safe, and never fired it.   That was a character flaw I knew I needed to address.

I thought I had a set of .243 dies, but I was surprised to find I did not.  I had some ammo, so I guess at some point I had .243 dies.  I bought a new set of Lee dies, and I already had some .243 bullets.  And as it turns out, the Lyman reloading manual lists IMR 4350 as the accuracy load for 60 grain bullets, and I had some.  I only loaded six rounds (using the brass John gave to me), and I thought I needed to buy .243 brass (everybody is sold out of .243 brass right now). Then I started poking around in my brass drawer and it turns out I have five boxes of new Winchester 243 brass.   I swear I’m gonna find Jimmy Hoffa or an honest politician in my components storage area one of these days.

The Tula factory ammo I had didn’t shoot worth a damn.  Tula is cheap ammo, this stuff was old, and it grouped around 2.9 to 3.5 inches at 100 yards.  I also had some very old reloads that had 100 grain Sierra bullets and 34.0 grains of IMR 4064, and it did only marginally better.  The six rounds I loaded myself with the brass good buddy John provided was better.  At least I think it was better.  I used 65 grain Hornady V-Max bullets and 43.2 grains of IMR 4350 powder.  I had one good group and one lousy group. But hey, Rome wasn’t built in a day, and I’m just getting started.  I’ll buy some heavier 6mm bullets (.243 is 6mm), I’ll try them with a few different loads, and you’ll get to read about it here on the ExNotes blog.


More stories on Ruger single-shot rifles (the No. 1 and the No. 3) are here.


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