¿Quantos Pistones? (The Triples)

By Joe Berk

I suppose I could wax eloquent about all the magnificent three-cylinder motorcycles out there in the world, but in keeping with the theme of this series, I’m sticking (at least for now) with motorcycles I’ve owned or ridden.  In those of the triple flavor, there have been three:  A 1969 Kawasaki two-stroke H1 Mach III, a 2006 Triumph Tiger, and a 2007 Speed Triple.  The first one (the Kawi 500 triple) didn’t impress me at all; the Triumph triples impressed me mightily.

Keith Hediger’s 500cc Kawasaki

Way back when I was in college, I had a 1971 Honda 750 (I’ll you about that bike when I do the ¿Quantos Pistones? blog on the fours).  One of my ROTC buddies, Keith Hediger, had a 1969 Kawasaki Mach III.  It was a real oddball:  A 500cc, two-stroke triple that could stay with a Honda Four in a drag race (which was kind of amazing, considering the Honda’s 50% displacement advantage). Keith and I had this great idea that it would be a real adventure to ride from New Jersey to Quebec, Canada, and we set off to do just that.

A 1969 Kawasaki Mach III 500cc two-stroke triple, a bike that broke all the rufes.

New Jersey to Canada on two naked street bikes with no plan, no luggage, and no rain gear was not a great idea.  That point was driven home when it started to rain somewhere in Vermont.  It kept raining all the way up into Canada, and when we hit Montreal, we decided we had experienced enough adventure riding for one trip.  But it was my first international motorcycle ride, and I had a chance to ride Keith’s Mach III when we switched bikes for a while.

My short ride on the Mach III convinced me of three things:

      • The Honda CB750 Four was downright luxurious compared to the Mach III.
      • The Mach III had a seat like a 2×4.  It was uncomfortable as hell.
      • The Mach III was indeed every bit as powerful as the CB750 Four.

I didn’t ride the Mach III long enough or on the right kind of roads to assess its rumored widow-making handling, but the bike felt twitchy and unstable compared to my Honda.  And that was it for me and triples for the next 2o or 30 years.

My decades-earlier short ride on the Mach II notwithstanding, I changed my mind about triples.  I wanted a Triumph.  It started at a Cycle World event (or maybe was it Cycle; I always get the two pubs mixed up) in Los Angeles.  I was there on my ’92 Softail when it happened:  I heard a Trimph Speed Triple enter the parking lot.  It was a magnificent thing, kind of a pearlescent candy pink (which sounds weird as I type this), but wow, it hit all the buttons for me.  The color (I would call it bubble gum pearl) just flat worked for me, and that exhaust note…it was just wonderful. It was kind of a mix between a small block Chevy with a big cam and a jungle cat’s snarl.  Fierce, yet refined.  Loud, but not obnoxious.  Big power, but controlled.  I knew that someday soon I would own a Triumph triple.

2006 Triumph Tiger

That someday soon arrived when I stopped at Doug Douglas Motorcycles in San Bernardino.  In those days some 20 years ago now, Doug Douglas was an old school motorcycle shop.   San Bernardino is regarded by many in southern California as the armpit of the state, and I guess I was of that opinion, too.  At least until one of my riding buddies corrected me:  “It’s more like the crotch,” he said.  I think he was right.

My 2006 955cc Triumph Tiger. The haze in the background is real. I and buddy of mine were riding in the mountains north of Los Angeles during one of our many famous forest fires.

Anyway, I was riding through San Bernardino on my Harley when I stopped at Doug Douglas Motorcycles.  Doug was an old guy even then, and he was famous, I guess, as a former motorcycle racer.  He was a crusty, cagey old guy who picked up on my reaction when I saw the candy blue, tiger-striped Tiger you see above.  He knew I was a goner before he ever said a word.  Doug told me what it would be, out the door, and my fate was sealed.  Folks, I’ve never paid the asking price for anything, and folks who know me, know I’m as tight was a turtle’s butthole (and that’s watertight).  I looked at the Tiger and then Doug and I simply said, “Okay.”

I don’t remember exactly, but I think the Tiger was about $9,000.   Sue hit the roof when I came home and told her what I had just done.  Then I told her I needed a ride back to Doug Douglas so I could bring the bike home.    She fumed for about half the trip until she finally asked me where the money was coming from.  I told her I had some money left from selling my Suzuki TL1000S.  “What did you do with the rest of that money?” she asked.

“That mother of pearl and black onyx bracelet I bought for your birthday,” I said.  I hadn’t known it when I said it, but it turned out that was the perfect answer.  Sue was sweet as a kitten for the rest of the ride.   When we reached Doug Douglas’s place, I introduced her to Doug.

“You must be the world’s greatest motorcycle salesman,” Sue said.  “My husband told me he said yes to your first offer, and that never happens.”

Old Doug scratched his chin and told her, “It’s true I’m a good motorcycle salesman, but I’m really much better at selling new living room and bedroom furniture.”  Sue and I were perplexed at that one, until Doug added, “lots of guys who come home with new motorcycles end up buying new furniture within a few days of their buying a motorcycle from me…”

The Tiger was a wonderful motorcycle and I covered a lot of miles with it. The Tiger was Triumph’s “me, too” ADV machine, but it was god-awful off road.  I was terrified on it every time I turned onto a dirt road in Baja, which was exactly twice.  In soft sand it would scare the bejesus out of a former paratrooper (something I can speak to with authority).   The Tiger was essentially a high-performance street bike with ADV styling.  It excelled on mountain roads.  It was tall and top heavy, but it was fast, it sounded wonderful, and I loved it.

2007 Triumph Speed Triple

The Tiger scratched a lot of my itches, but I still remembered that candy bubble gum Speed Triple, I fancied myself a hooligan, and I still had the urge to own a Speed Triple.

My 2007 Triumph Speed Triple. I shot this photo up on Glendora Ridge Road.

About a year after I bought the Tiger from Doug Douglas, I was in his dealership again and I saw the Speed Triple you see above.  I didn’t buy it on that visit, but I thought about it a lot in the days that followed.   I drove out there on a lunch break (I was still working then), made an offer, and it was mine.

I opted for a few doodads, including gold-anodized bits and pieces, the little flyscreen, and a set of Jardine carbon fiber mufflers.  The result was what was unquestionably the most beautiful motorcycle I’ve ever owned.  I remember I was getting a haircut one time downtown and a cop came into the barbershop.  He asked if the Speed Triple was mine.  I got an adrenaline rush thinking I had done something wrong, but nope, he just wanted to tell me it was a beautiful motorcycle.

The Speed Triple was beautiful and it photographed well, but it was buzzie and uncomfortable, and with its short wheelbase it was a little bit twitchy.  I owned four or five motorcycles in those days, and the S3 was the one I rode the least.  I sure liked looking at it, though.

One morning, I was headed to the University early in the morning for an 8:00 class.  That was November 9, 2009.  I exited the freeway and turned left, and I remember seeing a guy at a stop sign in a Camaro.  We established eye contact.  The next thing I knew I was being loaded into a helicopter, in great pain, with the blades’ downwash sweeping over me, thinking either I was having a really bad dream or I was being medevaced in Vietnam (which is kind of interesting, as I’ve never been in Vietnam).

My “I got screwed” photo. Trust me on this: It was as painful as it looks.

It wasn’t the Camaro guy at the stop sign, and it wasn’t even at that intersection.  My S3/automobile altercation had occurred a block further west, which I learned 6 weeks later while I was still in the hospital.  I have no memory of the crash (event amnesia, the doctor called it), but as crashes go, it was a relatively bad one.  I had a concussion, two crushed vertebra, and two big fractures of my left femur.  The femur was the big deal.  One surgery while I was still in the hospital put a big metal plate down there to hold everything together while the fractures healed, and when that broke a year later, I had revision surgery to remove the now-broken plate and install a femoral rod so that the lower fracture (which had not healed) could do so.   (Trust me on this:  The words “revision” and “surgery” should never be used together.)  I went on to ride other motorcycles throughout the western US, Mexico, Colombia, and China, so I guess the accident didn’t screw me over too badly.  But it made an impression, and I’ll never use a motorcycle to commute to work again.  The streets have a different personality during commuting hours, one best suited for a big car, or maybe an armored vehicle.


So that’s my story on the triples.  Although the idea of a three-cylinder motorcycle may feel weird (and from an engineering perspective, maybe a little unbalanced or asymmetric), I believe a three-cylinder motorcycle makes a lot of sense.  I think a triple has it all:  Power, balance, handling, and (at least for Triumphs) the right ExhaustNotes.


Missed our stories on the Singles and the Twins?  Hey, no problemo!  Here they are:

¿Quantos Pistones? (The Twins)
¿Quantos Pistones? (The Singles)


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The Crash – A Ride I Won’t Forget

By Bobbie Surber

Ten weeks ago today, Tom and I set out on our bikes from Sedona, AZ, headed for a little mining town in Sonora, MX. The plan? Visit our good friends Tom and Lynn—expats who’ve built a beautiful life there with their hotel and a yearly rider meet-up that’s become a favorite stop for us.

It started like any great ride: a cool Thursday morning, Sedona fading in the mirrors, Bisbee as our stop for the night, and an early morning border crossing on Friday. I was back on Tippi, my Triumph Tiger 900 GT Pro. Tom rode his Yamaha 900. Ahead of us? Three days with Tom and Lynn in their Sonoran paradise and, of course, some excellent Bacanora—a local smoky cousin of tequila.

The Perfect Morning

We left Tom’s house in that perfect early light, the red rocks glowing like they do only in the morning. Onto Highway 89A, then climbing Highway 260 toward the Mogollon Rim. First stop: Payson for fuel and a snack from the top box. It was one of those perfect riding mornings—cool air, empty roads, and that smooth hum where the bike feels like it knows what you’re thinking.

From there, we rolled onto Bush Highway, then Route 188, Lake Roosevelt flashing blue beside the desert. It’s one of those stretches that makes you forget you even have a destination. Too soon, Globe showed up—time for another quick fuel stop and stretch.

Tom looked tired when he swung off his bike. I noticed, but let it slide. That was mistake number one.

When It Went Wrong

Highway 77 is a narrow, twisty canyon road. Tom led, I followed. He was riding too close to a double-trailer semi, hugging the shoulder. I wanted to yell “Move over!” but we weren’t running headsets that day—mistake number two.

The wind blast hit him hard. He veered toward the ditch—four, maybe five feet deep—plowed through two plastic road signs, and fought like hell to keep it upright. For a moment, I thought he’d pull it off. Then the bike hit a rock the size of a pineapple and went down.

I rode past to find a safe place to stop, heart pounding so hard I could barely swing a leg over to dismount. For a second, I almost let Tippi fall so I could get to Tom faster. Somehow, I steadied myself, pulled off my helmet, and sprinted uphill.

Best sound I’ve ever heard? Tom yelling. Painful yelling, sure, but yelling. He was conscious, breathing, and already doing a self-check—old ER doctor habits die hard.

Angels on the Road

Cars kept flying by until one truck pulled over. Out stepped Chris—a firefighter, of all things. He took control like it was second nature: called for help, righted Tom’s bike, and helped him climb out of the ditch. Minutes later, paramedics loaded him into the ambulance headed for Cobre Valley Medical Center. Chris even gave me a ride to the hospital and didn’t leave until he knew we were okay.

Scans confirmed it: a broken scapula and two fractured ribs. Painful, yes, but survivable.

That night, I sat in the hotel room, had a good cry then listening to Tom breathe, whispering thanks to the road gods and to Tom’s split-second decision that might have saved his life.

Healing & Moving On

The following weeks were slow. Broken bones heal according to their schedule. Tom never complained, just kept moving, day by day.

By week six, the doctors were shaking their heads—he’d healed faster than expected. And, in classic Tom fashion, he now owns another Yamaha 900, fully loaded with more extras than I even knew existed. That crash slowed him down, but it sure didn’t stop him.

I’m still riding Tippi, and we’re already planning a fall ride back to Sonora. That Bacanora run? Just delayed, not canceled.

Lessons From the Road

      • If you’re tired, stop. Always.
      • Eat, drink, rest. These rides aren’t the place to “push through.”
      • Use comms. Sometimes one quick word can be the difference between safe and scary.

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India 2025: Om Banna

By Mike Huber

India Part VII

The number of temples and shrines we visited throughout Rajasthan in India had become mind boggling.  They each had their appeal and draw for one crowd or another.  It seems as though there was a temple for everyone, and as soon as I began wondering just how far apart and diverse the temples were we pulled into one that finally fully resonated with all of us.  It was the Temple of Om Banna.

This wasn’t just any temple. Temple Om Banna is a temple dedicated to fallen motorcycle riders and to provide a safe journey blessing for all travelers. As legend has it in 1988, a motorcyclist lost control of his Royal Enfield here and hit a tree and was instantly killed.  His motorcycle ended up in a nearby ditch.  The police recovered it and brought it to their station.  The following day the motorcycle was missing from the police station and rediscovered back where it had originally crashed.  This happened several times until the locals declared this a miracle and the Om Banna Shrine was created.

The Shrine is located right off the highway and is hard to miss with all the food carts, people, and yes, motorcyclists.  It is said that travelers who do not stop at this Temple will have bad luck for the continuation of their journey. Not wanting to have any bad luck (and more importantly, to check out this cool temple) we quickly pulled in on our Royal Enfields.

There were probably a couple hundred people there as we entered the open air temple.  There was incense burning and just a few meters past that we could see the Royal Enfield encased in glass with offerings surrounding it.  These offerings included food, money, and small liquor bottles (makes sense right?).  The entire scene was surreal. The motorcycle did seem to have a life of its own. I am not sure if it was just from the ambience surrounding it or if it was indeed a miracle we were gazing upon.  Either way, the temple was something that we each connected with in our own way and in our own space.

Upon packing up to leave one of my friends decided he would go ahead of us and get some kilometers in as he was a faster rider and would find a hotel for us for that evening.  The rest of us were in no rush and decided to get off the highway to just go slower and take in the countryside.  We were all pretty relaxed as another busy day was winding down.  It seems that anytime riding in India, as soon as you lower your guard India feels it, and will throw something at you as a reminder to respect your surroundings.

The two of us were on a long straight.  My friend was leading as I was gazing outward I saw something dart under my friend’s moto.  Whatever it as it was for a moment was consumed underneath the bike and seemed to have disappeared.  By the time this all processed (split seconds) I realized it was a small child that was being called by her sibling on the other side of the road.  The child was underneath the bike from my perspective.  My mind quickly raced through about 100 different reactions and emotions.  It seems I blinked and then the child reappeared on the other side of the motorcycle still running, seemingly oblivious to what had almost happened.  Neither of us could fully process how the child wasn’t killed or injured in anyway.  It was just that close.

We both pulled over instantly.  My friend needed about 10 minutes and a call to his family back in Canada to calm down and process what had happened, or almost happened.  Once having regained our composure we began the short and very quiet ride to our hotel where we met up with our friend.  He instantly could tell something was up as we pulled into the hotel.  When he asked what as up the only reply I could say was “Om Banna.”


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Charlie Don’t Wheelie – A Vietnam Motorcycle Adventure: Part 6

By Mike Huber

Exposure is one of the greatest thrills when traveling by motorcycle.  You feel every drop of rain and every cold or warm front you move through, experiencing each second by second.  There is no better way to experience the present, except for maybe exiting an aircraft in flight.  Being a motorcyclist and embracing that exposure allows the most beautiful moments.  During these moments I sometimes close my eyes for an instant to ensure my mind has a vivid snapshot that can be stored deep within and recalled for the rest of my life. With this beauty at times there comes a price, though, and at times that price can be death.

We were almost wrapping up our journey, having decided not to ride to the Vietnamese North Pole due to time constraints caused by our meandering travels.  Instead, I chose local mountain roads I found while planning our trip.  This made for relaxed riding and and easy return to our Home Stay in Mai Chau. The roads were incredible, some just dirt half covered by avalanches that barely allowed scooting the little 150cc motorcycles through. Every so often we would enter a village where pigs and water buffalo blocked the roads as children came out to honk the horn prominently taped to my handlebars.

After returning to the main road, just a few mountain passes away from Mai Chau, we decided to break for lunch.  There were older locals drinking what looked like a Vietnamese vodka.  Being ever curious about local drinks I attempted to order a bottle (or two) to go.  This took more than a few minutes.  Vietnam has so many dialects that many revert to English as the communication platform, but not here.  It took about five minutes and included several charades imitating the drunken locals we had just seen to obtain the right beverage.  No question about it: My performance would be the talk of that local watering hole for some time.

As I loaded the vodka bottles carefully into the plastic side panniers, we synced up the headsets and fired up the motos.  The narrow two-lane highway was stunning.  There were beautiful mountain views and sheer cliffs to our right where we could overlook the vistas and still see lingering fog far below us in a mystical valley.  Traffic was light that day, but we were alert for Terminators (oncoming trucks barreling around blind corners) and we were still cautious.

Suddenly, a female with a pink Hello Kitty plastic helmet zinged by me on her scooter. I waved to her as we do to all riders and glanced again to look at the mountain views.  I took a deep breath as I knew this would be one of those snapshot moments I wanted to remember forever. I didn’t realize how right I was.  In the very next moment, a Terminator was barreling directly at me in my lane, and I had no escape with the cliff on my right.  Before I could react to anything I heard plastic crunching and witnessed a body fly into the air 50 meters in front of me.  The entire world stopped for a moment as the crescendo of a full orchestra built and screamed in my head.  Then it suddenly stopped and the silence became the quiet sound of a gentle wind.

“Rider down!!” I screamed into the headset to Bobbie.  I parked the bike and ran over.  The female rider was still breathing, but there was nothing that could be done.  With traffic stopped I knew that on these mountain roads this scene would just get worse.  I attempted to tell the driver to call 911 knowing that most of these countries don’t have emergency services, but also knowing he wouldn’t need to read my charades to know what action to take. I flipped my moto around and drove up a quarter mile to meet Bobbie, and  I explained that I would pull road guard detail and for her to go to the accident scene.

Road guard duty was not an easy task on that foggy mountain highway in Vietnam. I remembered I had downloaded the Google Translator after being pulled over and quickly looked up “Stop bad accident ahead,” but even with using Google Translator the trucks continued to ignore me to the point they were jeopardizing Bobbie and others at the scene.  They continued to speed toward the horrific situation ahead.  Some vehicles were even going off the road to the left to avoid the accident or the cliffs after ignoring my warnings.

Still wearing my helmet and headset I shouted several times to Bobbie that there was an incoming vehicle but to no avail.  She was doing what she could to assist the downed female rider, and she didn’t have her helmet on. With no other option I physically walked into the middle of the road using myself as a barrier to force each vehicle to stop (I hoped).  I wanted them to realize the accident they were about to encounter. This action ultimately worked and the threat of new vehicles incoming to the accident site stopped.

Sometime between 45 minutes and a lifetime later authorities arrived on the scene, but only in the form of a traffic officer on the back of a civilian moped.  At this juncture it was time for us to depart.  There was nothing else we could do, the female rider had died, and it was time for us to leave. We slowly continued our ride down the pass and neither of us spoke for the remainder of the ride other than my continued warnings on the lowering mountain switchbacks into the fog of Mai Chau Valley. After 45 minutes of riding an ambulance passed us heading to the accident.  Still not saying a word, we knew there was no rush for the ambulance at this point.


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If you missed earlier installments of the Vietnam ride, here they are:

Charlie Don’t Wheelie – A Vietnam Motorcycle Adventure: Part 1 
Charlie Don’t Wheelie – A Vietnam Motorcycle Adventure: Part 2
Charlie Don’t Wheelie – A Vietnam Motorcycle Adventure: Part 3 
Charlie Don’t Wheelie – A Vietnam Motorcycle Adventure: Part 4 
Charlie Don’t Wheelie – A Vietnam Motorcycle Adventure: Part 5

A Harley Submarine?

Everybody who’s ever thrown a leg over a motorcycle has a story about when they crashed.  This guy (who’s name I do not know) has us all beat.  Last Thursday night, our unnamed hero was riding his Harley-Davidson across the Oakland Bay Bridge (the other big bridge connecting San Francisco to the mainland) when some dweeb in a Mini Cooper merged into his lane.  A crash ensued, the rider came off the bike and suffered minor injuries, but the Harley kept going.  And going.  And going.  Until it hit the rail and (you guessed it) went over the side.

The Oakland Bay Bridge is 190 feet above the Bay.

This fellow sounds like one tough (and lucky) dude.  According to the news reports, he transported himself to the hospital, where he was treated and released.  Also according to the news reports, no citations were issued to either our would-be U-boat commander or the Mini pilot.

The CHP and the Fire Department say they know exactly where the bike is.  (So do I.  It’s in San Francisco Bay.)  The emergency responders will attempt to recover the motorcycle at a later date (the water under the bridge is about 100 feet deep).  They are worried about it leaking gas and oil into the Bay.  There’s a joke in there somewhere.   Harleys are known to leak both, you know.  I know Harley is moving to liquid cooling, but this is ridiculous.  There’s got to be more.  Let’s hear ’em.

As motorcycle crash stories go, this has to be one for the ages.  I’m glad our hero (whoever he is) came through it with only minor injuries.  Ah, the stories he’ll be able to tell.


So, here’s an invitation.  Recognizing it’s not likely any of us will ever be able to top this story, what’s yours?  Got a good crash story?  We’d love to hear it.


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