Everybody has their preferred riding schtick and for me it’s international motorcycle travel. Anyone can ride their cruiser to a local hangout for a beer or their GS to Starbuck’s for a $6 cup of coffee. My riding is all about crossing international borders and collecting cool photos in places most two-legged mammals only dream about. Just to make a point, I once rode a 150cc scooter (my CSC Mustang) to Cabo San Lucas and back. The day after we returned, I needed something at Costco and I rode the little CSC there. When I parked it, a beer-bellied dude in a gigondo 4×4 pickup told me, “that’s a little cute bike.” He didn’t intend it to be a compliment.
“Thanks,” I said.
“I ride a (brand name deleted to protect the guilty),” he announced, his chest swelling with Made in ‘Merica pride to the point it almost equalled his waistline. “We ride all over.” He emphasized the “all” to make sure I got the point.
“Cool,” I said. “Where do you go?”
Cook’s Corner, the ultimate So Cal burger/biker stand.
“Last week,” he told me, “we rode to Cook’s Corner!”
Cook’s Corner is a southern California burger joint about 40 miles from where we were talking.
“Where do you all go on that little thang?” He actually said “you all” and “thang,” but he didn’t have the accent to match the colloquialisms. Okay, I had the guy dialed.
“Well, we rode to Cabo San Lucas and back last week.” I said.
Mr. 4×4’s jaw dropped. Literally. He looked at me, speechless, dumbfoundedly breathing through his open mouth. Without another word he climbed into his big truck and rode off. Our conversation was over. So much for the biker brotherhood, I guess.
My 150cc CSC Baja Blaster. I had a lot of fun and covered a lot of miles on that little Mustang.
The international motorcycle travel bug bit me when I was still in school. I had a ’71 Honda 750 Four back in the day (that’s me 50 years ago in the big photo up top). One of my Army ROTC buddies had the first-year Kawasaki 500cc triple. It was a hellaciously-fast two stroke with a white gas tank and blue competition stripes. We were in New Jersey and we wanted to do something different, so we dialed in Canada as our destination. They say it’s almost like going to another country.
And so we left. Our gear consisted of jeans, tennis shoes, windbreaker jackets, and in a nod toward safety, cheap helmets (ATGATT hadn’t been invented yet). We carried whatever else we needed in small gym bags bungied to our seats. Unfortunately, in those days “whatever else we needed” did not include cameras so I don’t have any photos from that trip. That’s okay, because all they would have shown was rain.
A 1969 Kawasaki 500cc, two-stroke triple. Widowmakers, they were called, in a nod to their often unpredictable handling.
As two Army guys about to become Second Louies, we joked about being draft dodgers in reverse. We were looking forward to active duty (me in Artillery and Keith in Infantry). We were going to Canada not to duck the draft, but as a fling before wearing fatigues full time. We didn’t really know what we were doing, so we took freeways all the way up to the border. It rained nearly the entire time. All the way up and all the way back. We bought sleeping bags because they looked cool on the bikes (it was a Then Came Bronson thing), but we stayed in hotels. It was raining too hard to camp, and besides, the sleeping bags were soaked through and we didn’t think to bring a tent. We got as far as Montreal, which seemed far enough to give us Canada bragging rights. We spent that single Montreal night in a cheap dive and pointed the bikes south the next day.
These days, I know to check the weather, bring rain gear (even if none is forecast), and study a map to find the most interesting roads (rather than the fastest). But hey, we were young and dumb, it was an adventure ride, it crossed an internationational border, and riding four days in a steady cold rain was a lot of fun. I didn’t think so at the time, but that’s how I remember it today. In fact, I remember that ride like it was last month. And it got me hooked on international motorcycle adventures. Canada was to be the first of many.
Never miss an ExNotes blog. Sign up here for free, unless you have a .ru in your email address!
What does a professional, world-class pistolsmith use for his personal weapon of choice?
I asked good buddy TJ (of TJ’s Custom Gunworks) that question, and the answer was surprising. This is a man who knows handguns inside and out, and a guy who is one of the top men in the world for custom-crafted combat handguns. SIGs, 1911s, Colt and Smith revolvers and autos, and more. A guy who could have just about anything he wanted. His guns are carried by law enforcement officers, special agents, and others the world over. So what is TJ’s personal sidearm?
It’s a highly-customized Charter Arms Bulldog, chambered in the mighty .44 Special cartridge. It’s the one you see here and in the photo above:
As you might imagine, TJ did not leave the gun stock. These are the custom features TJ’s personal .44 carries:
Satin brushed hard chrome finish
1.5-inch barrel (cutdown from stock barrel)
Radiused and polished trigger
“Melted” (rounded – sharp edges removed) contours throughout
TJ explained that double action is the only way he uses revolvers. You know, there’s a school of thought that a good man with a double action revolver can fire faster than can one with a semi-auto handgun. You can read more about that in Ed McGivern’s Fast and Fancy Revolver Shooting, a good read for anyone interested in improving their handgun shooting with a double action revolver.
TJ’s Charter Arms custom Bulldog is a very impressive weapon. You can see more photos of it, and a few of TJ’s other custom guns, on the TJ’s Custom Gunworks website.
Help us bring more content to you: Please click on the popup ads!
I visited with good buddy Paul up north last week, and while I was there he showed me a set of Altamont grips he had for his Smith and Wesson snubnose handgun. When I saw the grips it was love at first sight, and I had to have them for my TJ-customized Model 60. Paul was happy to oblige (thanks, Paul!), I came home with a new set of Altamont‘s finest, and they promptly went on the Model 60. The Model 60 now looks like a scaled-down version of the big .45 ACP Smith & Wesson Performance Center Model 625, and I had to grab the shot you see above. The 625 wears custom grips, too, but that’s a story for another blog.
There’s no question I’ve gone overboard in getting grips for the Model 60. It came with the stock checkered walnut grips (the original equipment on this handgun), as well as a set of Pachmayr rubber grips. The Pachmayrs would have been better for shooting, but I wanted a set of smooth rosewood grips and I found them on Ebay. They looked great, but they were painful to shoot.
The Model 60’s OEM checkered walnut grips. Photo by TJ of TJ’s Custom Gunworks.Smith and Wesson J-frame uncheckered rosewood grips. These are the same size as the walnut grips shown above.The problem with both the OEM walnut grips and the replacement rosewood grips is that they are too small. My pinkie wraps around beneath the frame and takes a pounding with each shot.
The problem with the stock walnut grips and the Ebay rosewood grips is that my little finger gets under the grip. The recoil from the little Model 60 is significant (as we engineers like to say, f = ma), and it would pound my pinkie every time I fired it. Think about putting your pinkie sideways on a table and having someone whack it with a hammer, and you’ll have a pretty good idea what shooting this little snubbie was like.
All that’s changed with the Altamont grips Paul provided. Take a look. They’re beautiful.
Custom Altamont grips for the Model 60. Note the stippling (a crocodile pattern!) and the laser-engraved S&W logo.The Altamont grips installed on the Model 60.
The new Altamont grips are extended just a bit below the frame and they have finger grooves. It keeps my pinkie from getting underneath the frame, and with the new grips the Model 60 just feels right in my hand.
The Altamont grips provide a much better ergonomic hold. I like them a lot.
These new Altamont grips have a much better feel to them. The wood-to-metal fit is way better than with the stock grips (the grips exactly contour to the Model 60’s frame, unlike the OEM grips). The next obvious question, and the one that really matters is this: How did the Model 60 shoot with the new grips?
In a word, it was amazing. The new Altamont grips completely changed the character of the Model 60. First, a couple of shots of the Model 60 on the range:
The Model 60 became an entirely different animal with the Altamont grips. It’s much easier to shoot now.Good buddy TJ reworked my Model 60 extensively. It has an action job, selective polishing (ejector rod, cylinder, trigger, hammer, and cylinder release), and a red ramp front sight. TJ’s Custom Gunworks is the place to go if you want a bespoke handgun.
And here are two targets I shot at 15 yards (45 feet). One has 10 shots on it; the other has 12 (each had two cylinders of 5 cartridges, and I had a couple left over to finish the box).
Two targets on the 15-yard line. That little Model 60 has near-target grade accuracy with the Altamont grips. If you have a snubbie, you need these grips!
Several things are amazing about the above targets. The first is that it was windy as hell out on the range this morning, and even though I was shooting with both hands from a bench, I could see the sights swimming around as the wind gusted. The second is that the groups are dramatically tighter than they had ever been before with this handgun. And the third is that the revolver shot almost exactly to point of aim. I was holding at 6:00 on the 50-foot slow-fire NRA targets you see above. My load was the tried and true .38 Special target load: 2.7 grains of Bullseye propellant with the 148-grain Hornady hollow base wadcutter. Before, with the OEM and rosewood grips shown above, this same load shot a good 12 inches to the right of the point of aim, and the groups were huge. Evidently, as the revolver discharged, it was rotating to the right in my hands with those much smaller grips (and beating the hell out of me in the process). The Altamont grips brought the point of impact essentially in line with the point of aim and just a bit high, which is what I want in a handgun.
You may recall from a recent blog that I have a load development test planned for the Model 60, and I’ll be firing the cartridges I loaded for it within the week. I was up north on a secret mission last week and I didn’t get to shoot during that time. I recently read that if you go 72 hours without firing a handgun your skills deteriorate. I believe that, and I wanted to get in a little shooting before I shoot for group size. Hopefully, the Santa Ana winds through the Cajon Pass will die down, conditions will be right, and I’ll get to do some real accuracy testing in the next few days. You’ll get the full report right here. Stay tuned, my friends.
You win some and you lose some on Amazon and with the Gdrasuya 80-amp battery charger I lost some. One of the few issues I have with my off-grid shed is snow. Here at normally sunny Tinfiny Ranch snow is infrequent which is not to say “never.” It does snow a few times each winter at 6000 feet and those times are when my solar panels get covered up and my batteries slowly lose power. Coincidently, when its cold and snowy I run pipe heaters to keep the shed’s PVC water pipes from freezing and splitting in the un-insulated space. It’s a double whammy: no power from the panels and a constant drain from the pipe heaters.
The system can go a few days like this but eventually the inverter shuts off and my pipes are left to live or die in New Mexico. To combat this I run a small 24-volt battery charger off my Harbor Freight Tailgator generator during the day to help resupply the batteries with precious electrons. I have an old Dayton 24-volt charger that puts out around 5 amps. With 12 batteries to charge it takes quite a while to bump them up.
Enter the Gdrasuya 80-amp charger. The Gdrasuya is 6v-12v-24v selectable and I assumed the 80-amp output was at 6 volts. That would mean the 12-volt setting would put out 40 amps and the 24-volt setting 20 amps. 20 amps charging is 4 times faster than the Dayton! I liked what I saw.
The charger arrived neatly packed and undamaged. The machine looked well made with beautiful glossy yellow paint and everything written in Chinese. No matter, battery chargers are easy to operate.
The first thing that gave me pause was the small diameter charge leads. The clamps looked pretty robust but no way was that small wire going to tote 80 amps without getting warm.
The small wires led me to investigate the inside of the charger to see how difficult it would be to install heavier wires. Once open I realized I didn’t need heavier wires because no way were these internals going to output 80 amps at any voltage.
The Gdrasuya uses a doughnut shaped transformer with various taps taken off the windings to select current to the battery. The wires are just a wee bit bigger than a human hair and the switching is very lightweight. Ok, I thought maybe they meant 8 amps instead of 80.
The main output breaker is rated 15 amps so no matter what you did to the thing 15 amps is all that’s passing through the breaker.
Worse than the misleading advertisement was the 120-volt AC input wiring. The green wire, or ground, from the plug was cut inside leaving the shiny yellow metal box in an ungrounded state. If the metal housing managed to short out to line voltage, a user touching the metal would receive a nasty shock.
Ok, the Gdrasuya 80-amp charger is dangerous and restricted on rated power by a 15- amp output breaker, but how does it work?
Turns out not too well. At 12-volt, max charging rate, the kilowatt showed the charger drawing 1 amp from the outlet, or 120 watts. On the DC charging side things looked bleaker. The Gdrasuya amp meter was reading 50 amps but my inline digital meter said 3.08 amps at a claimed 15 volts, a measly 46 watts. So not only was the Gdrasuya charger weak and dangerous, it was inefficient to boot.
In the description for the charger the 80-amp claim is made again along with a “power for 12V is 10A, for 24-v is 7A.” It does neither.
I haven’t tried it on 24-volts yet but you can figure maybe 2 amps tops or as we like to say in the electrical business, nothing. I was going to fix the ground issue but now that I’ve tested the charger it doesn’t seem like it’s worth the bother. That old Dayton putting out 5 amps looks like a champ in comparison.
It’s odd that someone would go through all this trouble to manufacture a charger that is pretty much useless. The thing consists of quite a few parts the sum of which is almost zero.
My recommendation is don’t buy the Gdrasuya. I’m not going to put an Amazon link in this story because I don’t want you to accidently buy one. I’ll put it back together and try to return the thing to Amazon. It serves no useful purpose in Tinfiny Ranch’s suite of electrical power products.
This flew into my mailbox last week from Kawasaki. I’m still on their mailing list (I purchased a new KLR 650 in 2006). I’ll let the video do the talking.
I had good times on my KLR. I don’t see another KLR in my future, but if the new model is as good as my 2006 KLR was, I think Kawasaki will do well with this motorcycle. Both Gresh and I had thoughts about what the new model might feature; you can read those blogs here.
If I were going to buy a new KLR (I’m not, but if I were), I would probably wait until the 2023 models were out. When Kawasaki introduced the Gen II KLR back in 2008, the 2008 bikes had oil consumption issues. Kawasaki had a recall (if I recall correctly) and they fixed the problem in the 2009 model. I think it’s best to let others work through the new model teething issues.
I’m guessing the full-freight new KLRs (luggage, ABS, etc.) will push $10K, which is roughly twice what a new CSC RX4 costs, and for me, selecting the RX4 over the Kawasaki would be a no-brainer. For that kind of money, you could almost buy a new Sportster.
Never miss an ExNotes blog: Subscribe here for free!
Want to see our predictions on what the new KLR would be? Just click here.
Going off-grid requires many design decisions, none of them exceptionally hard or final. With off-grid you can always change your mind to suit your needs although you can save a bit of money if you have a plan and stick with it. Of course that’s not how I do things. I generally screw up and get it right the third time, you know what I mean?
The going native part in the title of this story pertains to base system voltage. In my mind a native setup uses roughly the same voltage for the panels, batteries and inverter as opposed to running high voltage panels and stepping them down to battery voltage.
Going native makes your system more resilient to failure. The two most complicated devices in an off grid system are the inverter and the solar panel voltage regulator (not counting strange new battery technologies). When either of those two fail you are pretty much done until you purchase parts. With a native system the regulator can be bypassed completely by connecting the solar array directly to the batteries. Depending on the size of the array you’ll have to keep an eye on your charging to not overcook the batteries but by simply shading or un-shading a few panels with cardboard you will be able to control the charge rate at a reasonable level.
When it comes to common battery voltages for your off grid system you have effectively 3 choices: 12-volt, 24-volt or 48-volt. Fast thinkers will realize that these voltages are all multiples of 12 and that’s because 12-volt batteries are the most popular. You can get batteries in other voltages; there’s no real reason the basic building block had to be 12-volt. You can buy 2-volt batteries all the way to 48-volt batteries.
One or more batteries connected together and powering your house are called a bank and like a bank you have to deposit energy into the batteries in order to draw energy out. For smaller off-grid systems 12-volt battery banks are popular. Inverters in the 2000-watt range powered by a 12-volt battery bank will work fine and are the simplest to connect if you’re electrically impaired. 12-volt banks become less desirable as power needs rise due to the large, expensive battery wires you’ll need to supply the amperage big 12-volt inverters need.
In favor of going native with 12-volt batteries, thanks to the RV industry there are a zillion products that operate at 12-volt. You can get 12-volt refrigerators, 12-volt coffee pots, 12-volt light fixtures, 12-volt pumps, 12-volt air conditioners, 12-volt televisions, 12-volt chargers for your phone and computer and you can even get 12-volt toilets. In fact, you could build yourself a pretty comfortable off-grid house using nothing but 12-volt appliances and skip having an inverter altogether. 12-volt is also fairly safe as your chances of being electrocuted increase along with voltage. Unless you’re really sweaty you can touch both poles of a 12-volt battery and not feel a thing.
The appliances that operate from native voltage will continue to operate with a dead inverter. In my shed that means lights and water pump still work with the inverter shut off. Going native allows you to slowly back out of the complex into the simple and simple things are understandable and reliable.
Going native at 24-volt limits the number of electrical devices you have to choose from. There are not nearly as many 24-volt things as there are 12-volt things. This is slowly changing and 24-volt stuff is becoming more popular. Most DC voltage LED lights are rated 10 to 30 volts. A lot of electronic devices and chargers are also rated 10 to 30 volts (read the fine print on that wall-pig that sucks up all the real estate on your outlets). Getting across 24-volts will give you a tingle and If you’re sweaty you’ll get a shock. Nothing that will kill you, we hope, but still it’s less safe than 12-volt for you electricityphobes out there.
In my off grid shed I’ve chosen 24 for my native voltage, kind of splitting the baby between 12 and 48. My solar panels are considered 24-volt (actually higher but close enough to connect directly). I only really need lights until I can rig up a small inverter to get critical things up and running. The water pump is 24-volt also. My 24-volt inverter is 6000 watts; if I went with a bigger inverter I’d probably go to 48-volt and lose some resiliency.
Going native at 48-volts is sort of useless because you can’t find very many things that operate off 48-volts except inverters. At this native voltage you should toss any hope of backing out of the system gracefully after a lightning strike and put your trust in the thousands of tiny electronic components inside those humming boxes. Go ahead and crank the solar panel voltage up and plan on being in the dark if the inverter fails. Safety wise, 48-volts will give you quite a shock and may even kill you if you are wet and have health issues.
There are devices that will allow you to run most any DC voltage from any other DC voltage. To me these are one more point to fail in the system and they aren’t cheap either. I have one to operate my 12-volt refrigerator from the 24-volt battery bank. It cost almost as much as the fridge!
If you’re planning an off grid system for a remote cabin consider going native. Give yourself the option to keep on keeping on when the buzzing widgets fail. And they will fail. Nothing lasts forever. By building resiliency into the system from the start you can use your head to make things work while others must scamper off to the Internet to order parts.
The new CSC RX4 is here, and they are moving out quickly from the CSC plant in Azusa, California. CSC Motorcycles is offering two colors on the new RX4, as shown in the photo above Steve Seidner recently sent to me. One is a vibrant yellow and the other is a deep, rich blue. I like them. If I had to pick one, I’d go with the yellow. Yellow just seems to work on ADV bike. There are a number of changes incorporated on the new RX4 motorcycles, as outlined in the CSC mailer below. The big ones are the spoked tubeless wheels, the new TFT dash, and a tire pressure monitoring system.
We tested the RX4 extensively when it first came to America and published a comparison between it, the CSC RX3, and the Kawasasaki KLR 650. You can see those reports here. I may well have been the first American to ever ride an RX4 when I was in China visiting the Zongshen factory not that long ago. I rode the prototype (literally a 450cc engine in an RX3), and on a subsequent visit, one of the early preproduction models.
Tooling around the Zongshen test track on a preproduction RX4…those were fun times.
I love traveling to China, and I particularly like visiting the Zongshen plant and Chongqing. It’s a city most folks haven’t heard of here in the US, even though at 34 million inhabitants it is one of the largest cities on the planet. With that, here’s the info from CSC Motorcycles:
Get More Than Ever! CSCMOTORCYCLES.COM
The new 2021 CSC RX4 is the motorcycle ADV riders have been waiting for. Powerful. Economical. Modern. The RX4 is an all-around versatile motorcycle that is perfect for real-world riding – including highway cruising, adventure touring, or simply commuting to work economically.
The 450cc single-cylinder, 4-valve, overhead cam, counter-balanced engine produces 40.2 horsepower and achieves a top speed over 95 miles per hour. The RX4 is water-cooled and equipped with Delphi fuel injection and electric start. The bike features a six-speed transmission.
The new RX4 includes an adjustable windscreen, comfortable touring seat and foot pegs with removable rubber inserts. The RX4 features an all digital TFT Display Gauges: dash with digital speedometer, tachometer, odometer, trip odometer, fuel gauge, gear indicator, neutral light, temperature gauge, clock, turn signal and high beam indicators, and Bluetooth connectivity for caller ID. Above the dash there are USB and 12-volt charging outlets included as standard equipment.
The new CSC RX4 includes a 300-watt alternator to power accessories with two prewired outlets under the seat.
The RX4 features LED turn signals and brake light plus LED day-time running lights. The headlamps are controlled by an automatic light sensor. The RX4 has a standard 5.3-gallon gas tank with locking cap. With fuel consumption exceeding 60 miles per gallon, the RX4 has an honest range approaching 300 miles.
The CSC RX4 is outfitted with spoked wheels, black anodized aluminum rims and 80/20 tubeless tires.
The RX4 comes standard with molded side cases, mounting racks and a TALL rear top box – which is large enough for a full-face helmet. Or RX4 owners can select the OPTIONAL package of Tourfella aluminum side cases and rear top box, all with custom side pannier and rear mounting racks.
The CSC RX4 is an unmatched value in the adventure motorcycle category. The powerful and economical 450cc motor is paired with a huge list of standard features that cannot be duplicated elsewhere.
CSC RX4 Standard Features:
450cc liquid-cooled engine, 4-valve, overhead cam, with counter-balancer.
Long maintenance intervals (5,000-mile valve adjustment) and easy repairs backed by a full Owner’s Manual and online service tutorials.
US Delphi EFI system.
6-speed transmission.
Stainless steel twin pipe exhaust.
5.3-gallon fuel tank with locking gas cap keyed to ignition.
All Digital TFT Display Gauges: dash with digital speedometer, tachometer, odometer, trip odometer, fuel gauge, gear indicator, neutral light, temperature gauge, clock, turn signal and high beam indicators.
Adjustable windshield.
12-volt and USB charging outlets on dash.
LED turn signals and brake light.
Dual-flash hazard lights.
3D Anti-fog headlamp with LED day-time running light. Low light sensor with handlebar switch controls.
300-watt alternator.
Automotive-type waterproof connectors under the seat. An optional handlebar-switch for accessory outlets is available.
Adjustable inverted front forks with anodized finish. Fork lock keyed to ignition.
Adjustable rear shock absorber.
Large diameter dual front and single rear disk brakes with ABS.
Front 110/80-19 spoked wheel with tubeless dual sport tire, black aluminum rim.
Rear 150/70-17 spoked wheel with tubeless dual sport tire, black aluminum rim.
Tire Pressure Monitoring System {TPMS}.
Front and rear mud guards, with added rear lower mud guard.
Steel engine skid plate. An optional full coverage aluminum skid plate upgrade is available.
Frame-mounted engine guards.
Comes standard with molded luggage. An upgraded aluminum luggage package is available.
Wide foot pegs with removable rubber inserts.
Passenger foot pegs and grab rails.
Tapered aluminum handlebars with bar-end weights.
Dual rear view mirrors.
Ergonomic rider and passenger seat.
Available Colors: Fire Yellow or Saphire Blue.
The RX4 is covered by a ONE YEAR unlimited mileage warranty.
If you’re a serious international adventure rider, the RX4 is one of the best motorcycles available. I believe it is one of the six best motorcycles you can take into Baja if you are seeking a great bike at a super price. You can read more about the new RX4 on the CSC blog.
My buddy Paul sent this to me. In our unending quest to bring our readers the latest in motorcycle technology, we are sharing it here. Check out this video of a Russian dude and his steam-powered motorcycle….a motorcycle that kind of looks like something Joe Gresh would cook up in the La Luz skunkworks.
Here at ExhaustNotes we are not earthy crunchy, granola-eating oil-haters. Far from it as most of the fun things we like to do involve burning refined oil or playing with toxic products derived from oil. Hell, our entire 45-year working career depended on an oil-based economy. We’re not about to turn our backs on our old friend Petroleum. At the same time we enjoy building off-grid power systems isolated from The Man and his ever-increasing system development surcharges, power outages, readiness to serve fees and base facility charges.
It’s a shame that off-grid energy has been politicized along predictable fault lines because it really is nondenominational and serves everyone equally regardless of which clan they voted for. ExhaustNotes Off-Grid is not going to try to convince you to wear a tie-dyed shirt or stock up on ammunition for the coming civil war, but if you can shake off those tribal chains we think you’ll find off-grid energy appeals to the anti-government Far Right insurrectionist, the communist Far Left insurrectionist and that vast sea of reasonable anarchists who find themselves trapped between two crazy extremes.
At ExhaustNotes we are not electrical engineers, but with modern, home-based off grid equipment you don’t have to be. It’s so easy a child of 35 could do it. We go off grid not to make a point but because it’s more reliable than grid power, it’s nearly on par with grid cost-wise, the watts per dollar only get better the longer you operate your system, and it’s fun. One beauty of going off grid is its scalability: You can go full hog and cut the cord forever or take baby steps to energy independence.
This blog series will cover standard, easily-available systems found in houses or sheds. Grid-tied systems are not part of this series. There’s nothing wrong with grid-tie, but to my mind grid-tie systems defeat the purpose of going off grid in the first place: The Man still has his sticky fingers in your business. I’m going to ignore grid-tie because I don’t build those systems and I don’t want to get bogged down in things I know nothing about.
I’ll kick off with inverters. I have a bunch of the damn things. Inverters are kind of like backwards battery chargers. Instead of taking relatively high voltage alternating current (AC, the standard house power from the grid) and converting it into relatively low-voltage direct current (DC) to charge a battery, inverters change DC into AC. I say relatively high or low because the voltages we will be working with are 240-volt down to 12-volt. In the big picture, 240-volt is not that high. Many different voltages can be used in off-grid systems and sometimes the DC voltage is as high as the AC voltage.
AC voltage is fairly easy to step up or down using simple transformers. It’s the reason Tesla’s AC system beat out Edison’s DC system in the early years of electrification. Changing DC into AC and stepping up the voltage takes more electronic components. It requires an inverter.
The simplest and cheapest inverters are called square wave inverters. These are getting harder to find due to inherent issues with their power output. Like all non-rotating inverters they flip the DC polarity back and forth 60 times a second (in the USA) to create alternating current then step that up to a higher voltage resulting in a square wave pattern. The null period between the two voltage peaks is blazingly fast, essentially zero. These inverters produce a waveform that is nothing like what you are getting from the grid. Square wave inverters will operate a lot of things but certain electronic equipment may not like it. Brush-type power drills, incandescent lights, resistance type heaters should work with square wave but I’m not promising anything.
This is a cheap, Harbor freight 750-watt square wave inverter. Good for Christmas lights on your parade float.
If you test a standard, 120-volt square wave with a voltmeter it will probably show around 90 volts. This is due to that waveform switching back and forth instantly. Power under the curve is the closest way I can describe it: a normal grid waveform spends a lot of time rising and falling 60 times a second. The voltage rises, drops to zero then rises in reverse. For grid power 120 volts is an average. What this means is that over 1/60th of a second your electrical component is getting 120 volts some of the time, more than 120 volts some of the time, and no power at all some of the time. Electrical devices are built to this standard. A full, 120-volt square wave would most likely overheat whatever you plugged into it.
Modified sine wave inverters are an attempt to more closely mimic grid power. While a modified sine wave inverter is an improvement over square wave they are still sort of crude. Modified sine wave inverters are popular and will run most things but there’s still the possibility of frying a device if it happens to be really sensitive. Modified sine wave inverters cost a bit more than square wave inverters.
True sine wave inverters, also called pure sine wave inverters, are the most expensive and the closest thing you can get to grid power, maybe even better. These inverters produce a nice, clean waveform that looks the same as grid power to your electrical equipment. True sine wave inverters will run anything that you can run from grid power assuming the inverter has the capacity. True sine wave inverters used to be very expensive but the price has come down quite a bit. They still cost a lot more than a square wave.
While a 12-volt, 5,000-watt true sine wave like this one costs 1200 dollars, three times as much.
If you can afford it, always get a true sine wave inverter. If you’re really skint get a modified sine wave inverter, just assume the risk when plugging anything like computers or microwave ovens into the thing. If you just want to run incandescent lights, maybe fluorescent lights and simple, no-circuit-board electrical things get a square wave but be warned: I nearly fried my air compressor on a square wave and burned up a cell phone charger on one. I don’t buy square wave inverters anymore.
Inverters are sized in output watts and input volts. They are labeled sort of tricky some times. You’ll find a unit may be 12,000 watts surge capacity but only 5000 watts continuous. To make life simple ignore surge capacity and use the continuous rating. Now that you’ve decided to get a true sine wave inverter (if you’re smart), determine what your average operating load will be in watts and plan for an inverter with twice as much output. For a small house or shed I’d go with 5000 watts.
Since inverters need a DC power source, like batteries, you’ll also need to choose what input voltage your inverter will draw from your storage batteries. 12-volt DC input is most common for smaller inverters but as inverter output rises the input voltage usually goes up also. 24-volt and 48-volt DC input is normal on larger inverters.
Higher input voltage from the batteries helps keep wire sizes and voltage drop within reason. A 12-volt input, 6000-watt inverter running at full chat will be sucking 500+ amps out of your 12-volt battery bank. A 500-amp load requires huge battery cables to carry the current and puts a lot of stress on electrical connections. Terminal posts tend to get hot with 500 amps flowing through them. At max load that same 6000-watt inverter with 48-volt input will be sipping a mere 125 amps from your 48-volt battery bank. The reduced current at 48-volts allows for smaller and cheaper cables. The cost savings is significant. Big copper battery cables are expensive. You can use the money you saved on cables for more batteries.
With smaller inverters output power is usually single-phase 120 volt AC. They often have standard duplex outlets built right into the machine. These are a good way to gain a little independence from the grid without having to mess with high voltage wiring: You simply plug things directly into the inverter and go to town. You’ll only be able to run 120-volt equipment but most house stuff is 120-volt.
Another option is 120-volt/240-volt split phase output. These inverters usually require hard wiring to the output and you’ll need a breaker panel. No easy plug-ins. This setup is nice if you have 240-volt things like an air compressor or small South Bend Lathe you want to operate from the inverter in addition to regular 120-volt equipment. A split-phase inverter is kind of like two single-phase inverters joined at the hip, the hip being the neutral leg in this case. One half the total output is available on each of two, 120-volt circuits and all the output is available at 240-volts. On a 6000-watt split-phase you’ll be able to draw 3000-watts of 120-volt power from one side, 3000-watts of 120-volt power from the other 120-volt side or 6000-watts at 240-volts. Note that you cannot draw 3000 + 3000 + 6000 watts all at the same time. You’ve only got 6000 watts total no mater how many ways you divide it up.
In my off-grid shed I run a 24-volt Aims 6000-watt, true sine wave, 120/240 split-phase output inverter that feeds a standard, household breaker panel. From the panel I have circuits for lights, outlets, and 240-volt outlets. I went with 24-volt input because I run LED, DC lights and a DC water pump. It’s harder to find these items in 48-volt. My system has been operating for two years without any problems. The inverter is kind of a watt-hog as it draws 3-amps “on” with no load attached. The Aims inverter has a pulsing, sleep circuit that reduces the no-load draw to 1 amp but it only senses one side of the 120-volt output. Turn on a load that is connected to the non-sensing side and nothing happens; the unit won’t wake up and make power. I don’t use sleep mode but it’s a good energy saving feature if you can make it work.
Another farkle I don’t use on the AIMS inverter is the pass-through relay. The pass through relay automatically stops the inverter when generator power is feeding your system. The generator power passes through the inverter relay and powers your shed/house/whatever. In addition the inverter can be set up to switch to battery charge mode when the generator is powering your load. I do the switching manually because I like to keep the inverter’s job as simple as possible.
The AIMS battery charge mode is great. If you kill the batteries you can input 240 volts from a generator and the inverter will become a 24-volt, 85-amp battery charger. This charger function is useful for cloudy or snowy days when your solar panels aren’t working. Of course I have my system set up for manual operation of the inverter charging. Like most inverters the AIMS shuts off at a selected low input voltage so as to not kill the battery bank completely or harm the inverter from operating on low voltage.
To give you an idea of what 6000 watts will do, I can run a small, wire feed arc welder or a ¾-horse air compressor. I use traditional power tools, a concrete mixer and a spot welder. I have yet to find something it won’t run, I just can’t run everything at once.
A super easy way to take the first steps on your path to grid independence is this little 300-watt, true sine wave, 40-volt input Ryobi. It doesn’t have a lot of power but if you already own 40-volt Ryobi tools like I do it makes a nice emergency back up power supply. You can run a lamp or an Internet router, maybe a small monitor or television. Also you can charge phones with a couple USB ports. Ryobi makes a 150-watt unit but 150 watts is too small to be much use.
If you don’t have 40-volt Ryobi batteries this Bestek true sine wave, 500-watt, 12-volt input inverter will turn any 12-volt car battery into a 120-volt power source. If your power goes out during a big storm clip the leads onto your car battery and you’ll have back up power not reliant on The Man. Just remember to run the car every hour or so to recharge the battery or just leave the car running. At 500 watts you can do some damage with this thing (maybe even run a small refrigerator).
I mentioned earlier about rotating inverters. Back before the advent of fancy, complex inverters a brush-type DC motor turning an AC generator provided a simple, reliable method of inverting DC into AC. The waveform it produced was true sine. It wasn’t that long ago either as I worked on this type of inverter back in the 1970s. I’m guessing it wasn’t as efficient as the new ones and the frequency may drift a bit. The motor-inverter used a lot of copper compared to modern stuff but it worked ok. If you find an old rotating inverter in a junk pile grab it; it would be fun to mess with.
That’s enough inverter chat, it’s too much geeking for me. My head is spinning from typing about it. Hopefully this will help you decide which inverter will suit your needs. If you’re interested in this sort of stuff we’ll cover batteries, solar panels, generators, wind generators, loads, and how to tie the mess together in the future, so be sure to subscribe to our ExhaustNotes.us email alerts and you won’t miss a thing. Unless of course you want to miss a thing.
Brumby, my 1992 Jeep YJ, was a stinky ride whenever I filled the gas tank. It was so bad I tried to fill it less than 3/4 full to keep odors down. That worked for a while but the problem became worse as time stayed on its ever-forward push towards entropy. The thing got so bad raw fuel (is there any other kind?) would slosh out on rough roads.
In addition, the in-tank electric fuel pump kept getting noisier and noisier. If I let the tank drop below ½ it made a real racket that you could here over the flapping canvas roof and the squeaking suspension. These two issues combined left me with a usable tank capacity of between 1/2 and 3/4, or about 37 miles in layman’s terms. I knew I had to drop the tank and have a look at the situation.
The Jeep YJ tank is behind the rear axle and attached to a steel skid plate. After unhooking the fuel fill hoses, no easy feat, you have to use a floor jack to let the tank down. I siphoned out as much fuel as I could to make the tank lighter. Once you’ve got the tank lowered and a bit of clearance you can disconnect the rest of the fuel lines. Being fuel injected there are three lines: pressure, return and a small vent that goes to the charcoal canister I think.
The big leak was at the fuel pump flange. The YJ’s tank is an aftermarket, rotocast plastic unit. This pump-to-tank area warps with age. There is no metal flange cast into the tank top to insure a flat gasket surface. Look for this feature on your next Jeep YJ gas tank purchase.
Removing the fuel pump assembly revealed that the replacement pump was not an exact replacement. The new fuel pump’s electrical connections were reversed but there was plenty of slack in the wires to reach. The bottom pickup of the new pump didn’t quite fit into the pickup screen correctly so I messed around with the extra rubber bushings that came with the new fuel pump until I got something that worked.
I managed to get the fuel pump installed into the new assembly in only a few hours. Remind me next time to spring for the complete pump assembly. When I reinstalled the pump assembly I used a new gasket and a steel backing plate that came with the gasket. Copious quantities of black RTV silicone filled the dips and voids of the warped plastic tank top.
I cleaned and re-painted the gas tank skidpan and attached the tank straps to the pan. Now the whole assembly is situated on the floor jack, rolled into position and jacked up into place only pausing long enough to connect the new rubber fuel lines (also from Amazon!).
Some YJ owners cut out the floor to replace the fuel pump. That’s a good idea but it isn’t very hard to drop the tank. For roadside emergency repairs a hatch cut into the floor would make replacing the pump a half-hour job instead of the two days it took me. I think I’ll do the hatch next time.
Brumby is running fine with its new fuel pump and I can fill the tank without fuel sloshing out onto the hot exhaust pipe. My fuel mileage has improved slightly without the constant loss of gasoline from the leaky tank. The old pump looked like original equipment and lasted 29 years. Stay tuned to ExhaustNotes for a follow up report when the new fuel pump quits.
