There are certainly worse places to wake up. I opened my eyes facing a beautiful mountain lake with loud wekas clumsily hunting for food in the brush next to my tent. Without my cooking gear it took me just about 20 minutes to pack up and load Massie, the BMW GS750 for what would be a full day of riding. As I was packing up I was already craving a coffee and a meat pie for breakfast. While stuffing my gear in the panniers I noticed how wet everything was from the dew and being so close to the lake. The sun was out though, so I thought after an hour or so of riding I would dry it out as I ate breakfast.
Riding to breakfast took a bit longer than expected and the one hour turned to three. Not that big of a deal as the sun was fully out now and would allow for my gear to dry while I researched my route and stops for the day. As I pulled into a coffee shop in a small town along my route the waitress stated how it would be a while for my food and coffee. This was my queue to unpack my wet gear and lay it out to dry while I was researching maps and things to do for the day.
During my wait several people introduced themselves and we had some fun conversations about my gear and riding. It was a great environment, or so I thought. After about 20 minutes my coffee and food arrived and I was told that maybe I should take it to go and it was time to pack up my gear. I guess they didn’t like the look of my tent and equipment drying and sprawled out all over their front porch. Which I sort of get, even though many of the clientele had been chatting me up. I apologized and, well, it took me about as long to pack up that gear as it did for them to bring my coffee (it happened to be fully dry by the time it was packed). I found it a bit rude, but I understood that having my gear everywhere could be viewed as a bit of a mess. It was time to get going, anyway, as I had a long day ahead.
During my minimal research and planning at the coffee shop I discovered this one hike that I continually heard about from others. It was the Mount Cook Hooker Trail. The hike wasn’t too long, and it had an incredible view at the end. This was only a couple hours off my planned route. Adding that hike meant I would have to have a long day and miss a lot of stops that tourists hit, such as the Franz and Fox Glaciers and hikes along that area. I decided to prioritize the Hooker Trail and skip the glaciers and other coastal hikes. Having made this decision meant a 350-mile day. Which to me didn’t seem like a lot, but the roads were tight and windy, which I thoroughly enjoyed, probably too much as I used the long day as a reason to really wear the edges of the tires in.
After close to 10 hours of aggressive riding through what I felt was like a mini version of the Western United States and British Columbia, I arrived where I thought would camp for the evening, just outside a city called Wanaka. However, the “campground” resembled something of a tent city I would expect to find under Interstate 5 in Seattle. That made it a hard pass for me. I did have a second option, but it was another 45 minutes north and if it didn’t work out, I would be in a tight position as the day was beginning to wear on me. I decided to shoot for it and hope for the best. What I found was far more than I expected and maybe one of the coolest places I ever moto camped.
Zongshen ended production of its iconic RX3 motorcycle and CSC sold the last of its RX3 inventory. I was tangentially involved in bringing the RX3 to America and I had a ton of fun on that motorcycle. Knowing that the RX3 is no longer in production is like hearing an old friend has passed away. In the end, the S-curve prevails for all of us, I guess. But it still hurts. The RX3 was and still is a great motorcycle.
An early clay mockup of what would become the RX3 in Zongshen’s Advanced Design center.
According to my sources in Chongqing, Zongshen first started thinking about a 250cc offroad and adventure touring motorcycle in 2010. Engineering development took about two years (excluding the engine). China’s initial and traditional 250cc was based on a Honda CG125 air-cooled engine, which evolved into 150cc, 200cc, and 250cc variants (the 250cc CG engine was actually 223cc; it is the engine that powers CSC’s current TT 250). The CG-based variants didn’t have the performance Zongshen wanted for its new adventure touring motorcycle, and that led Zongshen to develop a 250cc water-cooled, four-valve engine for Megelli in Italy. It went into the Zongshen NC250 motorcycle. This engine also went into the RX3.
Yours truly with former Sears president and CSC advisor Carl Mungenast on Glendora Ridge Road. I rode the CSC 150 Mustang replica in this photo to Cabo San Lucas and back.
For CSC, the Zongshen connection started with a search for a larger CSC 150 engine. The CSC 150 was the Mustang replica Steve Seidner designed and manufactured in 2009. I was already in China for another client, and it was only an hour flight from Guangzhou to Chonqging for the initial visit to Zongshen. To make a long story slightly less long, CSC started purchasing the Zongshen 250cc engines for the little Mustangs. I think most of the folks who bought those Mustangs really didn’t care if it was a 150 or a 250. Both were capable bikes; my friends and I rode the 150cc version to Cabo and back. It was the 250cc Mustang engine that established the relationship between CSC and Zongshen, though, and that was a good thing.
When CSC’s Steve Seidner noticed an illustration of the RX3 on the Zongshen website, he immediately recognized the RX3 sales potential in the United States. Steve ordered three bikes for evaluation and he started the U.S. certification process. Steve and I did a 350-mile ride on two of those bikes through the southern California desert and we both thought they were great.
Showing the Zongshen execs in Chongqing possibilities for a ride in America. The Chinese sponsored the Western America Adventure Ride as a result of that discussion. It was awesome and the bikes performed magnificently.
Zongshen was not targeting the U.S. market when they developed the RX3; they thought the U.S. market had different requirements and consumer preferences. The initial RX3 design did not meet U.S. Department of Transportation lighting and other requirements. It was back to China for me to help set up the specs for the CSC RX3 and the initial order.
On the Western America Adventure Ride, we rode from southern California to Mt. Rushmore, back to the Pacific across the top of America, and down the Pacific Coast to return to Azusa. Here King Kong, Leonard, Hugo, and Tso emulate the American presidents at Mt. Rushmore.
On that early visit, the Chinese told me they wanted to ride in America. They sent over a dozen bikes and as many riders, and we had an amazing 5,000-mile adventure we called the Western America Adventure Ride. Baja John planned the itinerary and mapped out the entire ride; we even had special decals with our route outlined made up for the bikes. We let the media know about it and it was on this ride that I first met Joe Gresh, who wrote the “Cranked” column for Motorcyclist magazine. I made a lot of good friends on that trip. After the trip through the American Southwest, Zongshen invited Gresh and me on a ride around China, and after that, I was invited by AKT on a ride through the Andes Mountains in Colombia.
In Medicine Bow, Wyoming, on the Western America Adventure Ride. Two Colombians also participated, which resulted in an invitation to ride in Colombia.On the road in the Andes Mountains. The sign says the elevation is 3950 meters (that’s 13,000 feet above sea level).Joe Gresh and I gladiating near Liqian, China. The China ride was the adventure of a lifetime.
At CSC, we had a lot of discussions on the initial marketing approach. We were looking at a $50,000 to $100,000 hit for an advertising campaign. Maureen Seidner, the chief marketing strategist for CSC and co-owner with Steve, had a better idea: Sell the bikes at a loss initially, get them out in the market, and let the word spread naturally. We knew the price would stabilize somewhere above $4K; Steve’s concept was to sell the bike for $2995. Maureen had an even better idea. $2995 sounded like we were just futzing the number to get it below $3K; Maureen said let’s make it $2895 for the first shipment instead. I wrote a CSC blog about the RX3 and CSC’s plans to import the bike. When I hit the Publish button on WordPress for that blog, the phone rang literally two minutes later and I took the first order from a guy in Alaska. Sales took off with CSC’s introductory “Don’t Miss The Boat” marketing program.
I wrote another CSC blog a week later saying that I was eager to get my RX3 and ride it through Baja. I thought then (and I still think now) that the RX3 is the perfect bike for Baja. The bike does 80mph, it gets 70mpg, it has a 4-gallon gas tank, and everything you needed on an ADV touring machine was already there: A skid plate, good range, good speeds, a six-speed gearbox, a comfortable ride, the ability to ride on dirt roads, panniers, a top case, and more. We started getting calls from folks wanting to ride with me in Baja, and the orders continued to pile in. That resulted in our doing an annual run through Baja for RX3 owners. We didn’t charge anything for the Baja trips. It was a hell of a deal that continued for the next four or five years. I had a lot of fun on those trips and we sold a lot of bikes as a result.
The Western America Adventure Riders in Arizona. This photo is prominently displayed in the Zongshen main office building lobby. That’s Baja John in front; he did nearly all the work organizing the ride.
CSC’s enthusiasm surrounding the RX3, the CSC company rides, and CSC’s online presence did a lot to promote the RX3 worldwide, and I know Zongshen recognized that. I visited the Zongshen campus in Chongqing several times. One of the best parts of any Zongshen visit for me was entering their headquarters, where a 10-foot-wide photo of the Western America Adventure Ride participants in Arizona’s red rock country dominated the lobby.
The RX3 was controversial for some. RX3 owners loved the bike. A few others found reasons to hate it, mostly centering around the engine size and the fact that the bike came from China. I spent a lot of time responding to negative Internet comments until I realized that the haters were broken people, there was no reasoning with them, and none were ever actually going to buy the motorcycle anyway. These were people who got their rocks off by throwing rocks at others.
When RX3 production ended recently, I contacted one of my friends at Zongshen and I thought you might enjoy some of what he told me. Zongshen sold 74,100 RX3 motorcycles (35,000 in China; the rest went to other countries including Mexico, Colombia, other South American countries, Singapore, Turkey, and the United States). Colombia alone purchased 6000 units in kit form and assembled their bikes in Medellin. I watched RX3 motorcycles being built in the Zongshen plant in Chongqing; I was also in the AKT factory in Colombia and I saw the RS3 (the carbureted version of the RX3) being built there. Ultimately, RX3 demand dropped off, but 74,100 motorcycles is not a number to sneeze at. The RX3 greatly exceeded Zongshen’s expectations and their initial marketing forecasts, especially in overseas markets. CSC had a lot to do with that success, and playing a minor role in that endeavor has been one of the high points of my life.
The CSC 650cc RX6 twin cylinder motorcycle. The Chinese motorcycle industry is moving to larger displacement bikes.
Chinese motorcycle companies today are emphasizing larger bikes. We’ve seen that here with the CSC RX4, the 400cc twins, and the 650cc RX6. I’ve ridden all those bikes and they are great. I like larger bikes, but I still think a 250cc motorcycle is the perfect size for real world adventure riding. I think the emphasis on larger bikes and the decision to drop the RX3 is a mistake, but I haven’t sold millions of motorcycles (and Zongshen, with CSC’s help, has).
That photo you see above at the top of this blog? It’s good buddy Orlando and his wife Velma riding their RX3 up to Dante’s View in Death Valley National Park. Orlando thinks blue is the fastest color, but I know orange is. Sue and I recently visited Death Valley again; watch for the ride reports here on the ExNotes blog.
This is another one of those blogs that almost had another title. I considered simply calling it The P11. Hey, if you know, you know. And I know. So does Andrew.
Sue and I were on the East Coast last week (as in literally on the East Coast when we stopped for lunch in Point Pleasant, New Jersey) when I gave my buddy Andrew a call. Andrew is the guy who runs British Motorcycle Gear, a company whose ads grace these pages. You’ve also read reviews by Joe Gresh on some of the top quality gear Andrew offers, including Rapido gloves, the Mercury jacket, and the BMG Adventure motorcycle pants.
Andrew is a true Anglophile (a lover of all things British), although like me, he grew up in the Garden State. We had a nice visit in Andrew’s beautiful home, and then he took us into his garage to see the toys. I was blown away, not just by the motorcycles Andrew parks in his garage, but at how closely they tracked with my list of highly desireable motorcycles.
Andrew’s Norton P11. It’s awesome.No one has ever outdone Norton when it comes to fuel tank style. Triumph comes close. So did Harley in the ’30s, ’40s, and ’50s. This tank is perfect. And those exhaust pipes!
One that caught my eye instantly was a Norton P11. That was the ultimate hot rod motorcycle in the 1960s. Norton shoehorned their 750cc engine into a 500cc Matchless desert sled frame. When I was a teenager, the word on the street was that nothing was faster than a Norton P11. Norton only made a very few of these motorcycles (I think the production total was less than 2500). Truth be told, Andrew’s P11 is the first one I’ve ever seen in person, but I knew what it was as soon as I saw it. It’s parked on the other side of the garage, and my eye skimmed over a bunch of motoexotica when I saw the P11. Man, I would love to own that motorcycle. I don’t necessarily need to ride it; I would just look at it and keep it immaculate. Which, incidentally, is the condition in which I found all of Andrew’s motorcycles.
A late ’60s Triumph Bonneville. How could these guys have been overtaken by Japan?
There was a silver and burgundy 1968 Triumph Bonneville that looks like it rolled out of the Coventry plant yesterday morning. Andrew told me that the Bonneville is sold. Not to me, unfortunately. It’s another I’ve love to own.
Andrew with a few of his rides. Check out the Honda GB500 just behind the Daytona. Just 535 miles! That’s an MV Augusta behind it.
Andrew has a Triumph Daytona, and it’s the rare one…the 900cc triple with a bunch of goodies (think triple caliper disks up front, carbon fiber front fender, and other similar go fast and stop fast bits). It is bright yellow (Triumph called it Daytona yellow), just like the Daytona 1200 I owned about a decade ago. But my Daytona was but a mere commoner’s motorcycle. Andrew’s Daytona is the limited-edition version. Like the P11 Norton mentioned above, it’s the first one I’ve ever seen. I live in southern California; I’ve been to a bunch of moto hangouts (like the Rock Store in Malibu) and numerous Britbike events (for example, the Hansen Dam Norton get-togethers). I’ve seen Jay Leno, I’ve seen pristine vintage Indians (real ones, not the current production stuff), I’ve seen four-cylinder Hendersons, and I’ve laid these eyeballs on other similar exotics. But I’ve never seen a limited-edition Daytona Super III or a P11 in person until I visited Andrew.
Another one of Andrew’s bikes that caught my eye was a near-new-old-stock Honda GB500. It has to be one of the most beautiful motorcycles ever made. Honda offered these 500cc singles in the mid 1980s. It was a modern nod to (and refined version of) the British Velocette. They flopped from a sales perspective back then, but that’s only because of our unrefined palate and our then-fascination with conchos, wide whitewalls , and beer bellies (think potato-potato-potato exhaust notes and you’ll catch my drift). Like a lot of things, I should have bought a GB500 back then. Andrew’s GB500 is literally in like new condition. It has 535 original miles on the odometer.
A BMW…and more Triumphs.
There was more…a modern Triumph Thruxton, another modern Triumph, even a Lotus Elise sports car. My eye, though, kept returning to the Norton P11. It really is a visually arresting motorcycle.
At the conclusion of our visit, I asked Andrew if he would consider adopting me. Everyone enjoyed a good laugh about that. They all thought I was kidding. But I wasn’t.
I spent most of the morning in the garage, organizing my reloading bench and the tons of components I have stacked in, on, under, and around it. I rearranged a good chunk of my 9mm brass (I probably have something north of 4,000 empty 9mm cases, enough to keep me in Parabellum paradise for the rest of my natural life). I’m waiting on a part for my Lee turret press (Lee is sending it to me at no charge), and when it gets here I’ll start reloading 9mm again. It’s become a favorite cartridge, but more on that in a future blog.
Busy real estate, my reloading bench is. Those coffee cans are chock full of 9mm brass.
As part of the garage cleanup and reorg effort, I pushed the Royal Enfield out so I could sweep the floor. A young lady who lives in the neighborhood was walking her dog when she spotted the Enfield. “It sure looks like a nice day for a ride,” she said. We chatted for a bit and then I thought about her comment. It really was a nice day for a ride. We’ve had rain big time for the last couple of weeks (don’t believe the lyrics…during the winter it rains a lot in California), and today we finally had a day that was bright and sunny. I did what anybody would do…I closed up shop and fired up the Enfield.
The nice thing about the winter rains here in So Cal is that when the clouds disappear we see the San Gabriel Mountains blanketed in snow. It really is quite beautiful. I started a ride into the mountains to get a good shot of the Enfield with the snow-capped mountains as a backdrop, and then I realized it was already 1:15 p.m. I had a 2:00 appointment with Doc Byrne, my chiropractor. I stopped for the quick shot you see above, and then it was over to the doctor’s office.
People who see a motorcycle parked in front of a chiropractor’s office should probably realize the doctor knows his business. My guy does, and another plus for me is that he is a rider. We’ve had some interesting conversations about motorcycles while he works his magic. I’m a big believer in chiropractic medicine.
A motorcycle parked in front of a chiropractor’s office. What’s wrong with this picture?
After getting my back straightened, I pointed the Enfield north and wound my way into the San Gabriels. I was looking forward to a late lunch at the Mt. Baldy Lodge, and I was not disappointed.
The Mt. Baldy Lodge, a favored destination in the San Gabriel Mountains.
I like the Mt. Baldy Lodge. It was busy (that was good), although like a lot of places their prices have climbed irrationally (that’s not so good). I ordered a turkey melt sandwich and paid the extra $2.00 for onion rings instead of French fries (not exactly a healthy option, but it was delicious).
As soon as I sat down at the bar, a younger guy (they’re all younger these days) who was shooting pool asked if I came in on the Enfield. “Guilty,” I answered.
“Cool,” he said. “I had an Enfield about 10 years ago, but I crashed and the insurance company totaled it.”
I didn’t have the heart to tell him that the Interceptor was only introduced about four years ago. I had no interest in a conversation with a guy who was obviously making it up as he went along. Better he should find a job with the news media or in politics, or maybe as an Ivy League university president. (Does that count as politics? We don’t do politics here on ExNotes, you know.)
I enjoyed my sandwich and the onion rings. I didn’t eat the whole thing, which somewhat eased my guilt pangs (I’m having a weight loss contest with Baja John, and he’s kicking my ass). I was having a good day. There’s something about a motorcycle ride into the mountains, sitting at the bar in the Mt. Baldy Lodge, having a good lunch, and listening to the pool table balls clicking and clacking that just feels like all is right with the world. I had a great ride and a great lunch, but it was getting late and the outside temperature was starting to drop. I knew I’d better head home. Even though it was cold, I enjoyed the ride down out of mountains as much as the ride up. The next time I see that young lady walking her dog, I’ll thank her for her suggestion. She was right; it was a nice day for a ride.
So, in case you are wondering why you received a notification email about the new Janus 450 Scrambler and the link didn’t work…well, that was a case of operator error. I hit publish before I should have, which triggered the email notification, and then I took the blog down so I could repost it on 23 February. But the email notification had already gone out. I reposted the blog on the 23rd (like I was supposed to do to first time), and you can view it here. My fellow blogistas have warned me that they are going to lop off yet another finger if I screw up again, so I have to be careful. I only have a few fingers left, and it’s getting hard to type. Mea culpa, and all that…
The thought came to me easily: The Patton Museum. We’d been housebound for weeks, sheltered in place against the virus, and like many others we were suffering from an advanced case of cabin fever. Where can we go that won’t require flying, is reasonably close, and won’t put us in contact with too many people? Hey, I write travel articles for the best motorcycle magazine on the planet (that’s Motorcycle Classics) and I know all the good destinations around here. The Patton Museum. That’s the ticket.
General George S. Patton, Jr., and his faithful companion, Willie, at the General Patton Memorial Museum in Chiriaco Summit, California.
I called the Patton Museum and they were closed. An answering machine. The Pandemic. Please leave a message. So I did. And a day later I had a response from a pleasant-sounding woman. She would let me know when they opened again and she hoped we would visit. So I called and left another message. Big time motojournalist here. We’d like to do a piece on the Museum. You know the drill. The Press. Throwing the weight of the not-so-mainstream media around. Gresh and I do it all the time.
Margit and I finally connected after playing telephone tag. Yes, the Patton Museum was closed, but I could drive out to Chiriaco Summit to get a few photos (it’s on I-10 a cool 120 miles from where I live, and 70 miles from the Arizona border). Margit gave me her email address, and Chiriaco was part of it (you pronounce it “shuhRAYco”).
Wait a second, I thought, and I asked the question: “Is your name Chiriaco, as in Chiriaco Summit, where the Museum is located?”
“Yes, Joe Chiriaco was my father.”
This was going to be good, I instantly knew. And it was.
The story goes like this: Dial back the calendar nearly a century. In the late 1920s, the path across the Colorado, Sonoran, and Mojave Deserts from Arizona through California was just a little dirt road. It’s hard to imagine, but our mighty Interstate 10 was once a dirt road. A young Joe Chiriaco used it when he and a friend hitchhiked from Alabama to see a football game in California’s Rose Bowl in 1927.
Chiriaco stayed in California and joined a team in the late 1920s surveying a route for the aqueduct that would carry precious agua from the mighty Colorado River to Los Angeles. Chiriaco surveyed, he found natural springs in addition to a path for the aqueduct, and he recognized opportunity. That dirt road (Highways 60 and 70 in those early days) would soon be carrying more people from points east to the promised land (the Los Angeles basin). Shaver Summit (the high point along the road in the area he was surveying, now known as Chiriaco Summit) would be a good place to sell gasoline and food. He and his soon-to-be wife Ruth bought land, started a business and a family, and did well. It was a classic case of the right people, the right time, the right place, and the right work ethic. Read on, my friends. This gets even better.
Fast forward a decade into the late 1930s, and we were a nation preparing for war. A visionary US Army leader, General George S. Patton, Jr., knew from his World War I combat experience that armored vehicle warfare would define the future. It would start in North Africa, General Patton needed a place to train his newly-formed tank units, and the desert regions Chiriaco had surveyed were just what the doctor ordered.
Picture this: Two men who could see the future clearly. Joe Chiriaco and George S. Patton. Chiriaco was at the counter eating his lunch when someone tapped his shoulder to ask where he could find a guy named Joe Chiriaco. Imagine a response along the lines of “Who wants to know?” and when Chiriaco turned around to find out, there stood General Patton. Two legends, one local and one national, eyeball to eyeball, meeting for the first time.
A Sherman tank, the one Patton’s men would go to war with in North Africa and Europe, on display at the General Patton Memorial Museum.
Patton knew that Chiriaco knew the desert and he needed his help. The result? Camp Young (where Chiriaco Summit stands today), and the 18,000-square-mile Desert Training Center – California Arizona Maneuver Area (DTC-CAMA, where over one million men would learn armored warfare). It formed the foundation for Patton defeating Rommel in North Africa, our winning World War II, and more. It would be where thousands of Italian prisoners of war spent most of their time during the war. It would become the largest military area in America.
General Patton and Joe Chiriaco became friends and they enjoyed a mutually-beneficial relationship: Patton needed Chiriaco’s help and Chiriaco’s business provided a welcome respite for Patton’s troops. Patton kept Chiriaco’s gas station and lunch counter accessible to the troops, Chiriaco sold beer with Patton’s blessing, and as you can guess….well, you don’t have to guess: We won World War II.
World War II ended, the Desert Training Center closed, and then, during the Eisenhower administration, Interstate 10 followed the path of Highways 60 and 70. Patton’s troops and the POWs were gone and I-10 became the major east/west freeway across the US. We had become a nation on wheels and Chiriaco’s business continued to thrive as Americans took to the road with our newfound postwar prosperity.
Fast forward yet again: In the 1980s Margit (Joe and Ruth Chiriaco’s daughter) and Leslie Cone (the Bureau of Land Management director who oversaw the lands that had been Patton’s desert training area) had an idea: Create a museum honoring General Patton and the region’s contributions to World War II. Ronald Reagan heard about it and donated an M-47 Patton tank (the one you see in the large photo at the top of this blog), and things took off from there.
I first rode my motorcycle to the General Patton Memorial Museum in 2003 with my good buddy Marty. It was a small museum then, but it has grown substantially. When Sue and I visited a couple of weeks ago, I was shocked and surprised by what I saw. I can only partly convey some of it through the photos and narrative you see in this blog. We had a wonderful visit with Margit, who told us a bit about her family, the Museum, and Chiriaco Summit. On that topic of family, it was Joe and Ruth Chiriaco, Margit and her three siblings, their children, and their grandchildren. If you are keeping track, that’s four generations of Chiriacos.
The Chiriaco Summit story is an amazing one and learning about it can be reasonably compared to peeling an onion. There are many layers, and discovering each might bring a tear or two. Life hasn’t always been easy for the Chiriaco family out there in the desert, but they always saw the hard times as opportunities and they instinctively knew how to use each opportunity to add to their success. We can’t tell the entire story here, but we’ll give you a link to a book you might consider purchasing at the end of this blog. Our focus is on the General Patton Memorial Museum, and having said that, let’s get to the photos.
The Patton Museum’s new Matzner Tank Pavilion. When we were there, one of the two M60 tanks you see in front was running. If you think a motorcycle engine at idle makes music, you will love listening to an M60’s air-cooled, horizontally-opposed, 1790-cubic-inch, 12-cylinder diesel engine. I drove an M60 once when I was in the Army. Yeah, I still want one.The business end of an M60’s 105mm main gun. This one has been out of service for a long time; hence the rust. Firing one of these settles disagreements quickly.The M4 Sherman, our main battle tank in World War II, on the right, with an M5 Stuart tank on the left.Don’t tread on me, or so the saying goes. Everything on a tank is big. You don’t realize how big until you stand next to one.When Patton’s men trained at the DTC-CAMA, they used mockup aggressor vehicles (jeeps fitted with frames and canvas) to simulate the bad guys.M60 main battle tanks parked behind the Museum. This was a shot I could not resist. If Joe Gresh was into tanks, this is what Tinfiny Ranch would undoubtedly look like. The Patton name was attached to the M47, M48, and M60 tank series. I asked Margit about these tanks, and she told me that when the Museum raises enough money, they’ll be made operational and put on display. For now, Margit said, “they stand as silent ghosts with General Patton at the helm.” I like that.The General Patton Memorial Museum outdoor chapel. The chapel was built using desert rocks. If someone is looking for a unique wedding venue, this is it.
When I first visited the Patton Museum nearly 20 years ago, there were only three or four tanks on display. As you can see from the above photos, the armored vehicle display has grown dramatically.
Like the armored vehicle exhibits, the Museum interior has also expanded, and it has done so on a grand scale. In addition to the recently-built Matzner Tank Pavilion shown above, the exhibits inside are far more extensive than when I first visited. Sue and I had the run of the Museum, and I was able to get some great photos. The indoor exhibits are stunning, starting with the nearly 100-year-old topo map that dominates the entrance.
The Metropolitan Water District’s scale map of southern California, Arizona, and Nevada. MWD brought this model to the US Congress in 1927 to secure funding for the California Aqueduct, then they stored and forgot about it for decades. An MWD executive overhead Margit talking about the planned Patton Museum in the Chiriaco Summit coffee shop one day, he remembered the map, and one thing led to another. MWD donated the map to the Patton Museum in 1988. The Big Map (as it is known) covers the area used by Patton’s Desert Training Center and the California Arizona Maneuver Area. It’s a visually-arresting display that is truly something special.Generals Patton and Rommel, the two key players in North Africa. If you’ve never seen the movie, Patton, you need to fix that oversight. It is a great movie.George S. Patton: The early years. Patton attended the Virginia Military Institute and the United States Military Academy at West Point. His family was from San Marino, California. Patton was born into wealth and could have done whatever he wanted. He chose a career in the US Army.One of the display rooms inside the Patton Museum. I could have spent the entire day in just this room. That’s an A-10 Warthog model in the foreground. It’s the airplane we used to take out Iraq’s Republican Guard tanks in Operation Desert Storm. I worked for the company that manufactured the A-10’s 30mm Gatling Gun ammo and Combined Effects Munitions cluster bombs that did most of the heavy lifting in that war.Another view inside the Patton Museum. A tripod, a Nikon, a wide angle lens, and having the room to myself. It was a grand day.A model of Patton’s command vehicle. Patton lived in a trailer and moved with his troops during most of World War II, unlike other US generals who mostly stayed in hotels. Patton was an RVer before there were RVs.The Patton Museum has an extensive World War II small arms display. I could have spent half a day just viewing this part of the Museum. I’ll be back.The Patton Museum’s small arms display included this beautiful Model 1917 Colt .45 ACP revolver. Most of the surviving specimens you see today (when you see them at all; they are not very common) have a Parkerized finish. This one has the original blued finish. I own a Colt 1917; mine has the original finish, too. There’s quite a story behind these revolvers.A beautiful British Infantry Lee Enfield No. 4 rifle. I grabbed a photo of this one because it had an unusually attractive stock, something you don’t often see on infantry rifles.A replica of General Patton’s ivory-handled Colt Single Action Army revolver. Patton carried different sidearms during World War II, including this Colt SAA and a Smith and Wesson .357 Magnum (also equipped with ivory grips). Patton’s Colt SAA had two notches carved in the left grip. Then Lieutenant Patton was part of the Pershing expedition that chased Pancho Villa in Mexico from Fort Bliss (my old stomping grounds). Patton personally killed two men in a gunfight during that action. There’s no doubt about it: Patton was the real deal, a genuine warrior.
In addition to the General Patton Memorial Museum, there are several businesses the Chiriaco family operates at Chiriaco Summit, and the reach of this impressive family is four generations deep. As we mentioned earlier, it’s a story that can’t be told in a single article, but Margit was kind enough to give us a copy of Chiriaco Summit, a book that tells it better than I ever could. You should buy a copy. It’s a great read about a great family and a great place.
I enjoyed Chiriaco Summit immensely. That’s Joe Chiriaco in the lower left photo, and Ruth Chiriaco in the upper right inset. Margit Chiriaco Rusche, their daughter, is seated in the 1928 Model A. Fourth-generation Victor (whom we met) runs a vintage car header company at Chiriaco Summit. Victor is the young man standing behind Margit.
So there you have it: The General Patton Memorial Museum and Chiriaco Summit. It’s three hours east of Los Angeles on Interstate 10 and it’s a marvelous destination. Keep an eye on the Patton Museum website, and when the pandemic is finally in our rear view mirrors, you’ll want to visit this magnificent California desert jewel.
This just came in a few minutes ago: Janus is announcing their new 450cc Gryffin Scrambler. I rode the street version when I visited Janus Motorcycles a couple of years ago and I thought it was great. At 330 pounds and with a 450cc engine, the new Gryffin sounds good to me. Here’s the Janus press release.
JANUS MOTORCYCLES ANNOUNCES DEVELOPMENT OF GRYFFIN 450 SCRAMBLER
Goshen, Indiana
Janus Motorcycles, maker of small-displacement motorcycles with hand-crafted components and highly-customizable color combinations announces the development of their Gryffin 450 Model.
The Gryffin 450 uses the same simple, reliable, and enduro-inspired SWM 445cc, 30hp power plant as their popular Halcyon 450. With a 21’’ front wheel and 17’’ rear, high exhaust, and adventure-minded details, the Gryffin 450 is designed to be an ultra-lightweight scrambler that is configurable for adventure riding, trails, and general on- and off-road riding. It draws inspiration from classic scramblers of the 50s and 60s.
Weighing in at 330 pounds, the Gryffin 450 is featherweight in the scrambler class, and the XR400-derived SWM engine provides impressive power-to-weight in its lightweight chassis.
Janus Senior Design Engineer, Charlie Hansen-Reed, led the design on the project. “The Gryffin 450 is a close sibling to our Halcyon 450, but with some key changes that really make it excel off-pavement. The longer suspension travel, wheel size, lower seat height, and larger fuel tank will be really welcomed by our off-road riders.” He adds, “and trimming another 30 pounds off our already featherweight 450 chassis will be a huge bonus for trailering, van-lifers, and for any adventuresome rider’s peace of mind and confidence.”
Still available to customers will be the whole range of color options, pinstripe options, and other various aesthetic and functional items that differentiates Janus’ manufacturing process. Additional new options on the Gryffin 450 roadmap include motocross footpegs, headlight cage, pannier racks, highway bars, skid plate, tire selections, and pillion seat.
All Gryffin 450s will include hand-formed and beaded fenders, hand-formed and welded stainless steel exhaust, hand-welded chassis and forks, Brembo brakes, hand-painted graphics and pinstripes, and hundreds of permutations of color, pinstripe color, graphics package, leather/canvas bag options, and other customizations.
Janus Motorcycles builds their highly-individualized motorcycles to order and documents much of their design and build process on their Youtube channel. “Our customers and riders love to be a part of the iterative process. We’ve invited them along as we developed our 250 line and our Halcyon 450, and we’re excited to invite them alongside us as we finalize the design of the Gryffin 450 and push it into production” Founder and CEO Richard Worsham shares: “We invite anyone to follow along with us this year as we test, develop, and build our exciting new model.”
Janus opened reservations of the first Gryffin 450s to the public today, February 23rd. All orders placed in the first 30 days of sale will be a part of the First Edition, with serial-numbered plates, limited edition race plates, unique engraved components, and commemorative packages. Bikes will be built in order of reservation, with the first expected to be finished in July of 2024.
Riders can place a reservation for an order fee of $2995.
This is a continuation from my previous blog highlighting ten of the best roads in the beautiful state of California.
California 198 to Sequoia National Forest
Rated 5 WheeliesRoute Details. Yes, another mind-blowing road that goes through another National Park. This route has beautiful mountain switchbacks with no towns and minimal distractions. This allows you to lose yourself while focusing on the tight corners as you speed next to some of the largest trees on the planet. This route highlights how small you as a rider next to these majestic trees in Sequoia National Park.
Start to Finish Points: Wood Lake to Pinehurst
Distance: 78 miles
Ride Time / Recommended Time: 3 to 6 hours
Recommended Time of Year: May to October
Main Point Of Interest(s): General Sherman Tree
Cautions / Dangers: Wildlife in early morning and evenings
Important Contact Numbers: CHP (Visalia) 559-734-6767
Road Description. Although this route can be completed in a day, I would recommend you take two days. The reason for taking this slower is to allow yourself to stop and enjoy the sightseeing along this national park. The road is in excellent condition as you climb the switchbacks to crest the highest point in the park. There are no gas stations along this route so it is imperative that you fill up in either Three Rivers or Hume Lake (75 miles between the two) or outside the northern part of the park near Squaw Valley (90 miles from Three Rivers).
Points of Interest. Since this is a National Park there is plenty to do outside of riding including hiking, sightseeing, and camping. This is one of my favorite National Parks since it is so stunning but everything is a very short hike to get to. Some of the largest trees in the World reside in this park. The General Sherman Tree is the world’s largest tree and is along this route. There are many other gigantic trees that are awe inspiring and shouldn’t be missed. These are the points of interest I recommend:
Where to Stay/Camp. Camping and hotels are limited to what is available in the National Park. Reservations should be made ahead of time as the park can often be booked full and will leave you no other options for 50+ miles for a place to stay. Here’s where to check:
Route Details. This route can be combined with the Fort Bragg to Garberville route, but I wanted to ensure they were written on separately as I feel the riding and terrain changes from the previous one to this route. This is Northern California at its finest. Pristine ocean views that include lighthouses and beaches for over 100 miles.
Start to Finish Points: Fort Bragg to Bodega Bay
Distance: 107 miles
Ride Time / Recommended Time: 3-6 hours
Recommended Time of Year: May to Oct
Main Point Of Interest(s): Numerous Beaches and Lighthouses
Cautions / Dangers: Possible heavy fog in the morning
Important Contact Number: CHP (Ukiah) 707-467-4420
Road Description. Beautiful sweeping corners that hug the cliffs consume this ride. You can feel your lungs cleanse as you breathe in the mist of the Pacific Ocean while blasting along one of the most well-known, yet less traveled roads in our country. The road is in great condition and there are plenty of small Oceanside towns that have locations to fuel up and allow you to stop in for meals or a beverage. It is important to ensure you soak up some sun while taking a breather and meet other riders at one of the many stops along this epic part of Highway 1.
Points of Interest. This stretch of Highway 1 has some of the most beautiful and unpopulated beaches in the country along it. There are several lighthouses that are worth stopping by to visit. Mendocino Headlands State Park is a perfect place to stop and get a short hike in to regain focus for the upcoming curves you will be leaning heavily into. There are also several small beach communities like Mendocino, Fort Ross, and Gualala you will ride through, any of which make for a great stop for lunch or a stayover if you have the time. Here are my favorite spots:
Where to Stay/Camp. This stretch of road is one of the easier places to locate campgrounds and hotels due to the lack of crowds along it. As always making reservations ahead of time is recommended to ensure you have a safe place to rest for the evening. I have always had a pleasant experience staying along this route. Any of these places are good:
Route Details. 113 miles of diverse riding from open field to challenging switchbacks as you climb the cliffs along beautiful Lake Tahoe and take in some of the most intense roads and vistas in California. The road is in excellent condition with much of it newly paved. There are plenty of turnouts for taking photos, which is fortunate because the curves are very sharp and come up quickly so the ability to pull over and take in the views is an added bonus along this trip. The route is not a letdown. You and your motorcycle will be smiling all day.
Start to Finish Points: Kings Beach with Reno Junction in the north as your turnaround back to Kings Beach
Distance: 113 miles
Ride Time / Recommended Time: 4 to 6 hours
Recommended Time of Year: May to September
Main Point Of Interest: Lake Tahoe, Reno
Cautions / Dangers: Quickly changing weather conditions, especially in fall
Important Contact Numbers: CHP (Truckee) 530-563-9200
Road Description. This is one of the more picturesque and challenging rides in California. This route provides such a range in diversity, both in the scenery and the road types. You start in Kings Beach where there are rolling meadows and begin to quickly climb to over 9,000 ft. where you will be skirting the edges of cliff sides with some serious switchbacks thrown in for added intensity. This road is not for beginner riders as the technical cornering along with the beautiful views can be too dangerous for a novice to safely navigate, however, for seasoned riders on a clear day the photos from this ride will soon be the background on your laptop screen.
Points of Interest. This route has plenty of tourism along Lake Tahoe and in Reno as you loop through the stunning Tahoe National Forest. There are plenty of pullouts along this route to catch your breath and absorb the beauty that is fully surrounding you. As you traverse this loop you will not have to worry about any long stretches without gas or places to stop for food. Here are a few favorites:
Gar Woods Grille & Pier is the perfect place to start or end your day with great food, beautiful views of the lake, and live music on the weekends
Brewforia is perfect lunch location with excellent craft brews and delicious burritos
The Peavine Taphouse in Tahoe at the top of the loop it is worth pulling in to get some heavily loaded pizza to fuel up for the return trip
Where to Stay/Camp. With Tahoe National Forest surrounding you there are plenty of opportunities for dispersed camping along this ride. There is also an abundance of hotels, both high end and budget as well as state and private campgrounds. In short there is no need to worry about finding a place to lay your head and recover or to prepare for an incredible day of riding here.
Route Details. This road is quite unique from any other road in this state. It is 135 miles of just raw desert. Ensure you carry extra water to drink although there are gas stations every 35 miles or so. However, with this area having some of the hottest weather on the planet keeping an extra gallon of water (at least) on you is a wise move. The road is as desolate as you can find on a motorcycle, and the topography is like something from another planet. Even though the roads are straighter as compared to other rides I have listed, it’s the region and scenery that really make this road jaw dropping. Be very aware of the weather prior to traveling through this area.
Start to Finish Points: Lone Pine to Death Valley Junction
Distance: 135 miles
Ride Time/Recommended Time: 4 to 6 hours
Recommended Time of Year: September to early May
Main Point Of Interest: Death Valley National Park
Cautions/Dangers: Extreme heat conditions, possible sand in road
Important Contact Numbers: CHP (Bishop) 760-872-5150
Road Description. If you’ve ever dreamed of driving a motorcycle on Mars this is what it would be like. This road is one that you will never forget due to the dramatic landscape and post-apocalyptic feeling as you roll through the desolate desert of this National Park. The temperatures are extremely hot so I will mention this again to confirm the weather prior to embarking on this route. Early morning is a perfect time to go if you are traveling east to west to watch the landscape change colors in front of you while you are riding.
Points of Interest. The main attraction of this part of the country is Death Valley National Park. This area is home to the lowest point in the southern 48 with an elevation of 280 feet below sea level. As you stand in the depths of that point and turn northward you can see Mt. Whitney in the distance. Mt. Whitney is the highest point in the lower 48 rising up at over 14,000 feet. During springtime the desert erupts with beautiful fields of wildflowers that stretch across the desert. This makes February and March one of the best times to visit this area. This time also provides relief from the extreme heat of this National Park. There’s more info on Death Valley National Park here.
Where to Stay/Camp. This road has only a few places to stop along the way so it is important to ensure your water and fuel levels are topped off at each stop. Even though there are so few places to eat there is plenty of camping along the way during cooler months. Here are the spots I recommend:
The Panamint Springs Hotel is the only place in Panamint Springs to get food, water, and a hotel room
Just prior to entering the National Park the Death Valley Hotel is the perfect mid-way point to either grab lunch, camp or a hotel room
The Oasis at Death Valley resort has a great steakhouse and saloon that is perfect for a beverage to wind out your day; on the eastern side of the park this resort will be a welcome break from the heat of the day
San Juan Capistrano to Lake Elsinore on Route 74
Rated 4 Wheelies
Route Details. This is a perfect ride for a Sunday afternoon to wind down from the weekend. Fun switchbacks up through the Ronald W. Caspers Wilderness. The road has some beautiful pullouts for a panoramic view of the lake right before you descend down into the town of Lake Elsinore. This ride is popular with local riders so be aware of that as you travel through it and be mindful of speed traps.
Start to Finish Points: San Juan Capistrano to Lake Elsinore
Distance: 52 miles
Ride Time / Recommended Time: 2 to 4 hours
Recommended Time of Year: Year round
Main Point Of Interest(s): Lake Elsinore
Cautions / Dangers: Speed Traps
Important Contact Numbers: CHP (San Juan Capistrano) 949-487-4000
Road Description. Beautifully maintained roads where you can really practice cornering on your motorcycle. This road is more of a social route that will allow you to stop and chat with fellow riders and build new friendships than a long distance run. It’s close in proximity to LA which makes it a perfect ride on any day where you have a few spare hours and are in need of wind therapy.
Points of Interest. Once you leave San Juan Capistrano there is nothing until Lake Elsinore, except for probably one of the coolest motorcycle bars I have ever visited, Hell’s Kitchen Motorsports Bar and Grill. This is a place you have to stop at along this road to meet other riders and get a beverage and a burger. There are also several hikes with waterfalls that are worth stopping by for a break and to stretch out.
The Ortega Waterfalls is a lovely place to rest and take a quick swim, located at 33382 to 32806 Ortega Highway in Lake Elsinore, California
Hell’s Kitchen Motorsports Bar and Grill is a great stopping point to meet other riders and car enthusiasts
Kristy’s Country Store is the only place along this route to get snacks or water
Where to Stay/Camp. Surprisingly for such a short stint of road there are several wonderful camping opportunities either along the beach or in the hills along Route 74. All the campgrounds along this road are very clean and well maintained. These can allow for a weekend getaway that isn’t too far of a ride to get some air and enjoy a nice fire glowing off your motorcycle as you unwind from a week at work.
The Orange County Park area is a perfect campground with short hikes you can start right from your campsite; closer to Lake Elsinore, this campground also has some short beautiful hikes that are closer to the waterfalls
Conclusions
As you can see there is no shortage of beautiful roads in California. These routes listed along with the bars, restaurants, and tourist points are some of my favorites in the state. The experiences you embrace along these roads are sure to create some of the fondest memories that will stay with you for a lifetime. If you found this article useful or would like to share your favorite roads and experiences in California please feel free to share so we can work together to expand our knowledge on this unforgettable state.
Having chosen New Zealand as the first stop on the “Huber World Tour” was probably the easiest of the decisions I have made. Especially since the runner up was India and buying a Royal Enfield and roaming through that country for five to six months. Pipe dreams, but somehow I knew that would be too much to do solo for my first adventure (it surely isn’t out of the question for the future though). My sister had visited New Zealand and Australia last summer for the Women’s World Cup Soccer Match and couldn’t say enough good things about the countries, so I decided why not dip my toes in the travel waters instead of going off the deep end with a lead-weighted belt. So in October I bought a backpack, booked airfare, and passed a couple months with family and friends prior to leaving.
I left JFK on January 8th with a lot of anxiety and second guessing my decision on the long flight to Auckland. The flight was tolerable, not great, but I managed. Upon landing I was amazed at the efficiency of the airport. It was all digital entry and the walk off the plane took longer than passing through immigration and customs. Normally when I land in a foreign country I take off like a rocket and usually make several mistakes in my haste. I have no timeframe on my travels and I forced myself to sit, have a coffee, and fully gain my bearings before paging an Uber to bring me to a hotel I had pre-booked for two days in the event I had bad jet lag.
Arriving at my hotel around 11:00 a.m. I knew it was way too early to check in and for some reason I had a lot of energy. I found a local island on a map and saw ferries frequented it. What a great way to spend my first day. The island was like a little Martha’s Vineyard with shops, restaurants and bars. It also had a short hike up to the highest point on the island, Mt. Victoria. The hike got my legs moving again after my long flight. Once I began feeling tired I ferried back to Auckland. Upon disembarking the ferry I was starting to feel a bit tired so I thought taking one of those Lime Scooters would be a great idea. Well, I now know how I am going to die. It will be on a Lime Scooter. Not only was I starting to fade fast but the traffic drives on opposite the side of the road. Fortunately for me people are super nice here and I didn’t hear one F-Bomb as I clumsily navigated my way back to the hotel on the scooter. I was asleep within an hour. What a cool first day in New Zealand.
The following day I was still in a bit of a fog but felt I could do a 2-mile walk to the War Museum and learn to navigate the bus system. The War Museum was spectacular. I guess I never realized they were even involved in World War II. They even had a paratrooper regiment. After spending a couple hours it was time to grab a coffee for a much-needed boost. The thing I learned in college (maybe the only thing) is that coffee will physically wake you up but mentally it rarely does anything to get your brain flowing. Nonetheless, I felt refreshed and coherent enough to purchase a bus pass online. It was time to aim towards my next objective, a beautiful city overlook called Mount Eden.
Again, everyone here is super nice and welcoming. Upon boarding the local bus my pass didn’t work and I showed the pass on my phone to the driver. He laughed and told me to sit down and not to worry about it. I was scrambling to find out why it didn’t work and began talking to other passengers. This is when I learned I had bought a bus pass for Portland, Oregon. The bus passes had similar names. Okay, I will figure this out later and just focus on getting to Mount Eden for some photos. That didn’t happen. I was on the wrong bus and by this point it was a 2-hour loop to return to a bus stop near my hotel. I was pretty upset with myself for most the ride but in hindsight I had a free bus tour of Auckland and a story.
Clearly another solid night of sleep was required. However, before I could sleep I had to decide where I was going and would be staying the next night. I had heard of an island called Waiheke that was a 45-minute ferry ride away and thought that may be a good spot for a few days to relax as I continued to slowly lift the vail of jet lag. After booking an AirBnB for two nights and confirming the ferry schedule, it was time to sleep and prepare for the following day of travel to Waiheke Island.
California is beautiful from every aspect, but once you climb on a motorcycle and get the full experience of this gorgeous state you’ll realize it is difficult to find a place with more riding diversity. From the northern redwoods to the people-watching along Venice beach to the eastern deserts and right up to the Sierras. California is a destination where you’ll want to spend time. And when I say time, I mean having the ability to savor each region and each road.
Garberville to Fort Bragg
Rated 5 Wheelies
Route Details. This is a beautiful road with twisties that rival the famous Tail of the Dragon in North Carolina, with much more diversity due to the forest and ocean views.
Start and Finish Points: Garberville to Ft. Bragg
Distance: 68 miles
Ride Time / Recommended Time: 3-4 hours
Recommended Time of Year: May-Oct
Main Points of Interest(s): The stretch from Leggett to Rockport
Cautions / Dangers: Minimal but possible sand/rocks on road in mountain twisties
Important Contact Numbers CHP (Ukiah) 707- 467-4420
Road Description. I chose this route as my #1 in California due to the technical street riding, lack of traffic, and scenery. This route also has plenty of classic Americana stops along the way that even for this short ride will add to the enrichment of this route. It is an out of this world experience and you will feel at times as if you are in Star Wars zooming through Endor on a speeder. Once you adapt to that environment you are thrust out of the forest and into views of the vast openness of the mighty Pacific Ocean. It is hard to achieve a greater riding experience from every aspect over such a short distance.
Points of Interest. Garberville is a wonderful place to start as it is a quaint little hidden California town with wonderful people. The people are down to earth and easy to talk with as you consume a cold beverage or lunch while comparing tales from the road. There aren’t a lot of restaurants or stores in Garberville but the two I recommend are:
The Blue Room (747 Redwood Drive in Garberville, a great place for a drink/lunch/dinner)
The Eel Café (801 Redwood Drive, which offers breakfast and lunch sandwiches)
Another must see spot is the Drive Thru Tree Park for an unforgettable experience and great photo opportunities. Make sure you drive your moto through the Redwood tree.
Fort Bragg is larger compared to Garberville and offers more choices for nightlife and entertainment. Two of my favorites are:
The Tip Top Lounge, a great place to stop after riding all day for a beer and a solid burge
The Piaci Pub & Pizzaria for great pizzas and an environment conducive to unwinding
Where to Stay/Camp. Both Garberville and Fort Bragg offer numerous hotels and camping spots, and even though this is a short ride I highly recommend making this trip an overnighter to fully absorb the culture of this part of the state and its beauty. These are my favorite spots:
Santa Monica to Oxnard on the Pacific Coast Highway
Rated 5 Wheelies
Route Details. This is the quintessential California beach road with exhilarating sweeping corners that introduce a new view of the Pacific Ocean as you lean through each turn.
Start and Finish Points: Santa Monica to Oxnard
Distance: 50 miles
Ride Time/Recommended Time: 3 to 4 hours
Recommended Time of Year: April to November
Main Points Of Interest: Beaches along the route
Cautions / Dangers: Minimal, but possible sand near beaches
Important Contact Number: CHP (Woodland Hills) 818-888-0980
Road Description. As far as a California dream road, this is the one. Riding it early morning can be the best time due to low traffic and the ability to taste the salt from the Pacific Ocean as you wind northbound. There are plenty of beaches and overlooks to stop at. This really allows yourself to fully absorb the beauty of this part of California.
Points of Interest. Santa Monica is a great starting (or ending) point and you can walk out to the pier or rent bicycles to ride the boardwalk down to Venice Beach which will allow for some outstanding people watching and opportunities to engage in tourist attractions along the way. As you travel north from Santa Monica there are no shortage of quaint restaurants and shops along PCH1 to visit and relax. This is a road that feels as though it’s designed for a leisurely ride in order to fully experience the sights and sounds while on two wheels. A classic place to get some seafood is Neptune’s Net right along the Pacific Coast Highway for great seafood and wonderful people. If time allows, a worthwhile day can be spent visiting Channel Islands National Park.
Where to Stay/Camp. Camping is limited along this route but Point Mugu State Park is a great place for beach camping. Hotels are plentiful but expensive in both Santa Monica and Oxnard.
Highway 120 and Tioga Pass
Rated 5 Wheelies
Route Details. This is one of the best roads in California. It runs through Yosemite National Park and over intense switchbacks to Tioga Pass, where you will feel as though you are on top of the world (at almost 10,000 feet elevation, that isn’t too far from the truth). There are minimal fuel stops along this way so make sure you are fueled up.
Start and Finish Points: Groveland to Lee Vining
Distance: 92 miles
Ride Time / Recommended Time: 4 to 6 hours
Recommended Time of Year: May-September
Main Points Of Interest: Yosemite National Park and Tioga Pass (elevation 9,943 feet)
Cautions/Dangers: Wildlife throughout the passes, loose rocks and dirt on some mountain passes
Important Contact Number: CHP (Bridgeport) 760-932-7995
Road Description. Some incredible scenery as you pass through Yosemite National Park and even more breathtaking as you lean into some of the tightest switchbacks you can ever hope to encounter with serious drop offs so be sure to not get too caught up in the scenery and maintain focus on the road.
Points of Interest. Although this area of California is not as populated as some of the others there are plenty of places to stop and eat. With Yosemite National Park as the centerpiece of this ride there is a plethora of beauty and experiences to be had. My favorites are:
The Iron Door Saloon in Groveland as a perfect place to discuss your ride there or the one you are about to do
The Epic Café in Lee Vining for great breakfasts or lunches, or just to break up the day
Where to Stay/Camp. There are numerous inns, hotels, and quaint bed and breakfasts along this route. All the ones I experienced have been wonderful experiences. Here are two of my favorites on each side of the route, and the camping opportunities within Yosemite.
Lakeview Lodge in Lee Vining is a clean safe place to stay with modest rates and parking for your motorcycles
The Sonora Inn in Groveland is another winner both from a price standpoint and for the quality and cleanliness of the rooms
Cotton Springs Road to Joshua Tree
Rated 4.5 Wheelies
Route Details. A short but deeply satisfying route that winds through Joshua Tree National Park. No services along this way so be sure you fill your tank either east on I-10 at the Chevron Station or in the town of Joshua Tree (depending on which way you are traveling). Ensure you have water and are hydrated due to excessive heat during hotter times of the year.
Start and Finish Points: Exit 173 off I-10 to Joshua Tree
Distance: 94 miles
Ride Time/Recommended Time: 4 to 6 hours
Recommended Time of Year: September to November, February to May
Main Point Of Interest(s): Joshua Tree National Park
Cautions/Dangers: Loose rocks/dirt on some corners
Important Contact Number: CHP (29 Palms) 760-366-3707
Road Description. Beautiful desert and mountain views. In spring there are fields of wildflowers that really show how much life is in the fragile ecosystem of Joshua Tree. The roads are in excellent condition and encompass fun sweeping corners then will open up with straightaways that provide majestic vistas of the region.
Points of Interest. This is a desolate road, which is great for riders looking to just check out of the crowds and embrace riding. As previously stated there are no gas stations in the park so ensure you fill up prior to entering it.
Chevron off Exit 173 along Interstate 10 (62450 Chiriaco Road, Chiriaco Summit, California 92201)
In included the added mileage here through Joshua Tree National Park to allow you to fully explore the park (including the ride out and back to Keys View
For a great diner to fuel up before or after your ride try the Country Kitchen restaurant
Where to Stay/Camp. With Joshua Tree National Park being so desolate, camping there is a magical experience. On a clear night you can see the stars and planets like nowhere else. The campgrounds tend to fill up during peak seasons so be sure to reserve a campsite prior to your trip. As far as hotels go, both the town of Twenty Nine Palms and Joshua Tree have numerous hotels that are perfect for unwinding after the ride.
The Joshua Tree Inn is a great spot to relax with a pool and air conditioning after a hot ride through the park
Mulholland Highway
Rated 4 Wheelies
Route Details. This is a 50-mile route that is beyond filled with some serious mountain switchbacks. This is an incredibly intense road that to me rivals the Tail of the Dragon in NC. The switchbacks just don’t end as you climb through the Santa Monica Mountains and then spit out onto Highway 1 and views of the Pacific Ocean. It is a motorcyclist’s dream ride.
Start and Finish Points: Alizondo Drive Park to El Matador Beach
Distance: 50 miles
Ride Time / Recommended Time: 2 to 4 hours
Recommended Time of Year: Year round
Main Point Of Interest(s): The Rock Shop
Cautions / Dangers: Speed Traps
Important Contact Number: CHP (Woodland Hills) 818-888-0980
Road Description. For being so near to Los Angeles this road is a real getaway without having to travel far. The quality of the road is perfection and something that people from all over the LA area flock to. For this reason be cautious with your speed as there are several places they set up speed traps, however, quite often fellow riders will park ahead of these speed traps and provide you a warning. If you are looking at getting rid of the chicken strips on your tires this is definitely the road where you can accomplish that.
Points of Interest. This road has minimal places to stop along the way, but with all these switchbacks why would you want to stop. There is one famous attraction that is a must do as you traverse these mountain roads, and it is The Rock Store. It is a popular place for riders of all types to stop and get a sandwich and a drink. Jay Leno is often seen here talking shop with the riders and being social with others riding this fantastic road.
Where to Stay/Camp. With this ride being so close to the city there are minimal camping options. Hotels are numerous on both sides of this ride however. There are plenty of canyon roads off the main highway that are worth exploring, so even though this is a shorter ride you can absolutely make a full day out of this area. This will allow you time to fully embrace the roads and fellow riders along the way. My favorite place to camp is the Decker Canyon Camp.
I thought I would repost a blog I wrote in 2019 about riding in the rain. It’s been raining nonstop here in So Cal for days. When I say nonstop, that’s what I mean. Ordinarily when you get caught in the rain, it lasts for a while and then stops, and then maybe starts again. With this atmospheric river (the meteorological term) we are experiencing, it has literally been constant rain. I’m staying warm and cozy with a cup of coffee here in my home, but looking out the window, I’m reminded of past rides in the rain…and with that intro, here’s our previous blog.
Wow, it has been pouring here for the last week, with little respite other than this past Sunday. Sunday was nice. Every other day this week and the tail end of last week has been nonstop rain. Big time. Buckets full. And my iPhone just started buzzing with a flash flood warning for this area. Wow again.
So I’m sitting here at the computer, enjoying a hot cup of coffee, looking out the window, and I’m thinking about what it’s like to ride in the rain. We’ve all had those rides. Those memories stick in my mind. I remember every one of those rides like they happened yesterday.
The first was the return leg of my first international motorcycle foray, when good buddy Keith Hediger and I rode up to Montreal and back. That was in the early ‘70s, and we didn’t call them adventure rides back then. They were just motorcycle rides. I was on a ’71 CB750 and Keith was on a Kawi 500cc triple. It rained the entire length of Vermont at about the same intensity you see in the video above. We had no rain gear. It wasn’t cold, but it sure was wet. We were soaked the entire day. Wouldn’t trade a minute of it. It was a great ride.
Another time was on the second ride I ever did in Baja with good buddy Baja John. It was pouring when we left at 4:00 a.m., and it didn’t let up for the entire day. I was on a Harley then, and we finally stopped somewhere around Colonet to checked into a cheap Baja hotel (a somewhat redundant term, which is becoming less redundant as Baja’s march in to the 21st century unfortunately continues). Leather, I found out on that trip, makes for lousy rain gear. I went hypothermic, and I had the shakes until 4:00 the following morning. It made for a good story, and the rest of that trip was epic. Down to Cabo, back up to La Paz, on the overnight ferry over to Mazatlan, out to Puerto Vallarta and Guadalajara, back up to Nogales, and a thousand-mile one-day dash to make it home on New Year’s Eve. Wouldn’t trade a second of it.
Riding with Marty on the ’05 Three Flags Classic, we were caught in a downpour the second day out as we rode along the Dolores River in Colorado. It was a magnificent ride, with Marty on his K1200RS and me on my 1200cc Daytona. It wasn’t a drizzle. It was a downpour, just like you see in the video above. I remember it vividly, and I wouldn’t trade it for anything.
Colombia had lots of rain, but it only hit us hard on the very first day. It was raining hard that first morning as we rode out of Medellin and into the Andes early on that fine Colombian morning, but it lightened up by breakfast. I had real rain gear and the only issues were visibility and passing 22-wheelers on blind curves, as my Colombian riders did with gleeful abandon. Exciting times. But good times, and certainly ones I remember. Colombia was an adventure for the ages. I wouldn’t trade a second of it for anything else.
I’d have to say the heaviest rains I ever rode through were in China, where it rains a lot. It probably rained 25% of the time on that trip, and the first few days were the worst. Imagine riding up into the Tibetan Plateau, in the dark, on dirt roads, in rain way heavier than what you see in the video above. That’s what it was like, and I loved every mile of that ride. I wouldn’t trade it for anything else on the planet.
You might be wondering…why no photos? Well, the simple truth is that my cameras on each trip were tightly wrapped in plastic bags, and I wasn’t about to break them out in the rain. That’s something I guess I forgot to mention in my earlier blog about what to bring on a Baja trip: Garbage bags. They take up almost no space when you’re not using them, and they work great for keeping stuff dry when you ride in the rain.
Route Details. Yes, another mind-blowing road that goes through another National Park. This route has beautiful mountain switchbacks with no towns and minimal distractions. This allows you to lose yourself while focusing on the tight corners as you speed next to some of the largest trees on the planet. This route highlights how small you as a rider next to these majestic trees in Sequoia National Park.
Arriving at my hotel around 11:00 a.m. I knew it was way too early to check in and for some reason I had a lot of energy. I found a local island on a map and saw ferries frequented it. What a great way to spend my first day. The island was like a little Martha’s Vineyard with shops, restaurants and bars. It also had a short hike up to the highest point on the island, Mt. Victoria. The hike got my legs moving again after my long flight. Once I began feeling tired I ferried back to Auckland. Upon disembarking the ferry I was starting to feel a bit tired so I thought taking one of those Lime Scooters would be a great idea. Well, I now know how I am going to die. It will be on a Lime Scooter. Not only was I starting to fade fast but the traffic drives on opposite the side of the road. Fortunately for me people are super nice here and I didn’t hear one F-Bomb as I clumsily navigated my way back to the hotel on the scooter. I was asleep within an hour. What a cool first day in New Zealand.
