The new CSC RX4 is here, and they are moving out quickly from the CSC plant in Azusa, California. CSC Motorcycles is offering two colors on the new RX4, as shown in the photo above Steve Seidner recently sent to me. One is a vibrant yellow and the other is a deep, rich blue. I like them. If I had to pick one, I’d go with the yellow. Yellow just seems to work on ADV bike. There are a number of changes incorporated on the new RX4 motorcycles, as outlined in the CSC mailer below. The big ones are the spoked tubeless wheels, the new TFT dash, and a tire pressure monitoring system.
We tested the RX4 extensively when it first came to America and published a comparison between it, the CSC RX3, and the Kawasasaki KLR 650. You can see those reports here. I may well have been the first American to ever ride an RX4 when I was in China visiting the Zongshen factory not that long ago. I rode the prototype (literally a 450cc engine in an RX3), and on a subsequent visit, one of the early preproduction models.
Tooling around the Zongshen test track on a preproduction RX4…those were fun times.
I love traveling to China, and I particularly like visiting the Zongshen plant and Chongqing. It’s a city most folks haven’t heard of here in the US, even though at 34 million inhabitants it is one of the largest cities on the planet. With that, here’s the info from CSC Motorcycles:
Get More Than Ever! CSCMOTORCYCLES.COM
The new 2021 CSC RX4 is the motorcycle ADV riders have been waiting for. Powerful. Economical. Modern. The RX4 is an all-around versatile motorcycle that is perfect for real-world riding – including highway cruising, adventure touring, or simply commuting to work economically.
The 450cc single-cylinder, 4-valve, overhead cam, counter-balanced engine produces 40.2 horsepower and achieves a top speed over 95 miles per hour. The RX4 is water-cooled and equipped with Delphi fuel injection and electric start. The bike features a six-speed transmission.
The new RX4 includes an adjustable windscreen, comfortable touring seat and foot pegs with removable rubber inserts. The RX4 features an all digital TFT Display Gauges: dash with digital speedometer, tachometer, odometer, trip odometer, fuel gauge, gear indicator, neutral light, temperature gauge, clock, turn signal and high beam indicators, and Bluetooth connectivity for caller ID. Above the dash there are USB and 12-volt charging outlets included as standard equipment.
The new CSC RX4 includes a 300-watt alternator to power accessories with two prewired outlets under the seat.
The RX4 features LED turn signals and brake light plus LED day-time running lights. The headlamps are controlled by an automatic light sensor. The RX4 has a standard 5.3-gallon gas tank with locking cap. With fuel consumption exceeding 60 miles per gallon, the RX4 has an honest range approaching 300 miles.
The CSC RX4 is outfitted with spoked wheels, black anodized aluminum rims and 80/20 tubeless tires.
The RX4 comes standard with molded side cases, mounting racks and a TALL rear top box – which is large enough for a full-face helmet. Or RX4 owners can select the OPTIONAL package of Tourfella aluminum side cases and rear top box, all with custom side pannier and rear mounting racks.
The CSC RX4 is an unmatched value in the adventure motorcycle category. The powerful and economical 450cc motor is paired with a huge list of standard features that cannot be duplicated elsewhere.
CSC RX4 Standard Features:
450cc liquid-cooled engine, 4-valve, overhead cam, with counter-balancer.
Long maintenance intervals (5,000-mile valve adjustment) and easy repairs backed by a full Owner’s Manual and online service tutorials.
US Delphi EFI system.
6-speed transmission.
Stainless steel twin pipe exhaust.
5.3-gallon fuel tank with locking gas cap keyed to ignition.
All Digital TFT Display Gauges: dash with digital speedometer, tachometer, odometer, trip odometer, fuel gauge, gear indicator, neutral light, temperature gauge, clock, turn signal and high beam indicators.
Adjustable windshield.
12-volt and USB charging outlets on dash.
LED turn signals and brake light.
Dual-flash hazard lights.
3D Anti-fog headlamp with LED day-time running light. Low light sensor with handlebar switch controls.
300-watt alternator.
Automotive-type waterproof connectors under the seat. An optional handlebar-switch for accessory outlets is available.
Adjustable inverted front forks with anodized finish. Fork lock keyed to ignition.
Adjustable rear shock absorber.
Large diameter dual front and single rear disk brakes with ABS.
Front 110/80-19 spoked wheel with tubeless dual sport tire, black aluminum rim.
Rear 150/70-17 spoked wheel with tubeless dual sport tire, black aluminum rim.
Tire Pressure Monitoring System {TPMS}.
Front and rear mud guards, with added rear lower mud guard.
Steel engine skid plate. An optional full coverage aluminum skid plate upgrade is available.
Frame-mounted engine guards.
Comes standard with molded luggage. An upgraded aluminum luggage package is available.
Wide foot pegs with removable rubber inserts.
Passenger foot pegs and grab rails.
Tapered aluminum handlebars with bar-end weights.
Dual rear view mirrors.
Ergonomic rider and passenger seat.
Available Colors: Fire Yellow or Saphire Blue.
The RX4 is covered by a ONE YEAR unlimited mileage warranty.
If you’re a serious international adventure rider, the RX4 is one of the best motorcycles available. I believe it is one of the six best motorcycles you can take into Baja if you are seeking a great bike at a super price. You can read more about the new RX4 on the CSC blog.
My buddy Paul sent this to me. In our unending quest to bring our readers the latest in motorcycle technology, we are sharing it here. Check out this video of a Russian dude and his steam-powered motorcycle….a motorcycle that kind of looks like something Joe Gresh would cook up in the La Luz skunkworks.
Here at ExhaustNotes we are not earthy crunchy, granola-eating oil-haters. Far from it as most of the fun things we like to do involve burning refined oil or playing with toxic products derived from oil. Hell, our entire 45-year working career depended on an oil-based economy. We’re not about to turn our backs on our old friend Petroleum. At the same time we enjoy building off-grid power systems isolated from The Man and his ever-increasing system development surcharges, power outages, readiness to serve fees and base facility charges.
It’s a shame that off-grid energy has been politicized along predictable fault lines because it really is nondenominational and serves everyone equally regardless of which clan they voted for. ExhaustNotes Off-Grid is not going to try to convince you to wear a tie-dyed shirt or stock up on ammunition for the coming civil war, but if you can shake off those tribal chains we think you’ll find off-grid energy appeals to the anti-government Far Right insurrectionist, the communist Far Left insurrectionist and that vast sea of reasonable anarchists who find themselves trapped between two crazy extremes.
At ExhaustNotes we are not electrical engineers, but with modern, home-based off grid equipment you don’t have to be. It’s so easy a child of 35 could do it. We go off grid not to make a point but because it’s more reliable than grid power, it’s nearly on par with grid cost-wise, the watts per dollar only get better the longer you operate your system, and it’s fun. One beauty of going off grid is its scalability: You can go full hog and cut the cord forever or take baby steps to energy independence.
This blog series will cover standard, easily-available systems found in houses or sheds. Grid-tied systems are not part of this series. There’s nothing wrong with grid-tie, but to my mind grid-tie systems defeat the purpose of going off grid in the first place: The Man still has his sticky fingers in your business. I’m going to ignore grid-tie because I don’t build those systems and I don’t want to get bogged down in things I know nothing about.
I’ll kick off with inverters. I have a bunch of the damn things. Inverters are kind of like backwards battery chargers. Instead of taking relatively high voltage alternating current (AC, the standard house power from the grid) and converting it into relatively low-voltage direct current (DC) to charge a battery, inverters change DC into AC. I say relatively high or low because the voltages we will be working with are 240-volt down to 12-volt. In the big picture, 240-volt is not that high. Many different voltages can be used in off-grid systems and sometimes the DC voltage is as high as the AC voltage.
AC voltage is fairly easy to step up or down using simple transformers. It’s the reason Tesla’s AC system beat out Edison’s DC system in the early years of electrification. Changing DC into AC and stepping up the voltage takes more electronic components. It requires an inverter.
The simplest and cheapest inverters are called square wave inverters. These are getting harder to find due to inherent issues with their power output. Like all non-rotating inverters they flip the DC polarity back and forth 60 times a second (in the USA) to create alternating current then step that up to a higher voltage resulting in a square wave pattern. The null period between the two voltage peaks is blazingly fast, essentially zero. These inverters produce a waveform that is nothing like what you are getting from the grid. Square wave inverters will operate a lot of things but certain electronic equipment may not like it. Brush-type power drills, incandescent lights, resistance type heaters should work with square wave but I’m not promising anything.
This is a cheap, Harbor freight 750-watt square wave inverter. Good for Christmas lights on your parade float.
If you test a standard, 120-volt square wave with a voltmeter it will probably show around 90 volts. This is due to that waveform switching back and forth instantly. Power under the curve is the closest way I can describe it: a normal grid waveform spends a lot of time rising and falling 60 times a second. The voltage rises, drops to zero then rises in reverse. For grid power 120 volts is an average. What this means is that over 1/60th of a second your electrical component is getting 120 volts some of the time, more than 120 volts some of the time, and no power at all some of the time. Electrical devices are built to this standard. A full, 120-volt square wave would most likely overheat whatever you plugged into it.
Modified sine wave inverters are an attempt to more closely mimic grid power. While a modified sine wave inverter is an improvement over square wave they are still sort of crude. Modified sine wave inverters are popular and will run most things but there’s still the possibility of frying a device if it happens to be really sensitive. Modified sine wave inverters cost a bit more than square wave inverters.
True sine wave inverters, also called pure sine wave inverters, are the most expensive and the closest thing you can get to grid power, maybe even better. These inverters produce a nice, clean waveform that looks the same as grid power to your electrical equipment. True sine wave inverters will run anything that you can run from grid power assuming the inverter has the capacity. True sine wave inverters used to be very expensive but the price has come down quite a bit. They still cost a lot more than a square wave.
While a 12-volt, 5,000-watt true sine wave like this one costs 1200 dollars, three times as much.
If you can afford it, always get a true sine wave inverter. If you’re really skint get a modified sine wave inverter, just assume the risk when plugging anything like computers or microwave ovens into the thing. If you just want to run incandescent lights, maybe fluorescent lights and simple, no-circuit-board electrical things get a square wave but be warned: I nearly fried my air compressor on a square wave and burned up a cell phone charger on one. I don’t buy square wave inverters anymore.
Inverters are sized in output watts and input volts. They are labeled sort of tricky some times. You’ll find a unit may be 12,000 watts surge capacity but only 5000 watts continuous. To make life simple ignore surge capacity and use the continuous rating. Now that you’ve decided to get a true sine wave inverter (if you’re smart), determine what your average operating load will be in watts and plan for an inverter with twice as much output. For a small house or shed I’d go with 5000 watts.
Since inverters need a DC power source, like batteries, you’ll also need to choose what input voltage your inverter will draw from your storage batteries. 12-volt DC input is most common for smaller inverters but as inverter output rises the input voltage usually goes up also. 24-volt and 48-volt DC input is normal on larger inverters.
Higher input voltage from the batteries helps keep wire sizes and voltage drop within reason. A 12-volt input, 6000-watt inverter running at full chat will be sucking 500+ amps out of your 12-volt battery bank. A 500-amp load requires huge battery cables to carry the current and puts a lot of stress on electrical connections. Terminal posts tend to get hot with 500 amps flowing through them. At max load that same 6000-watt inverter with 48-volt input will be sipping a mere 125 amps from your 48-volt battery bank. The reduced current at 48-volts allows for smaller and cheaper cables. The cost savings is significant. Big copper battery cables are expensive. You can use the money you saved on cables for more batteries.
With smaller inverters output power is usually single-phase 120 volt AC. They often have standard duplex outlets built right into the machine. These are a good way to gain a little independence from the grid without having to mess with high voltage wiring: You simply plug things directly into the inverter and go to town. You’ll only be able to run 120-volt equipment but most house stuff is 120-volt.
Another option is 120-volt/240-volt split phase output. These inverters usually require hard wiring to the output and you’ll need a breaker panel. No easy plug-ins. This setup is nice if you have 240-volt things like an air compressor or small South Bend Lathe you want to operate from the inverter in addition to regular 120-volt equipment. A split-phase inverter is kind of like two single-phase inverters joined at the hip, the hip being the neutral leg in this case. One half the total output is available on each of two, 120-volt circuits and all the output is available at 240-volts. On a 6000-watt split-phase you’ll be able to draw 3000-watts of 120-volt power from one side, 3000-watts of 120-volt power from the other 120-volt side or 6000-watts at 240-volts. Note that you cannot draw 3000 + 3000 + 6000 watts all at the same time. You’ve only got 6000 watts total no mater how many ways you divide it up.
In my off-grid shed I run a 24-volt Aims 6000-watt, true sine wave, 120/240 split-phase output inverter that feeds a standard, household breaker panel. From the panel I have circuits for lights, outlets, and 240-volt outlets. I went with 24-volt input because I run LED, DC lights and a DC water pump. It’s harder to find these items in 48-volt. My system has been operating for two years without any problems. The inverter is kind of a watt-hog as it draws 3-amps “on” with no load attached. The Aims inverter has a pulsing, sleep circuit that reduces the no-load draw to 1 amp but it only senses one side of the 120-volt output. Turn on a load that is connected to the non-sensing side and nothing happens; the unit won’t wake up and make power. I don’t use sleep mode but it’s a good energy saving feature if you can make it work.
Another farkle I don’t use on the AIMS inverter is the pass-through relay. The pass through relay automatically stops the inverter when generator power is feeding your system. The generator power passes through the inverter relay and powers your shed/house/whatever. In addition the inverter can be set up to switch to battery charge mode when the generator is powering your load. I do the switching manually because I like to keep the inverter’s job as simple as possible.
The AIMS battery charge mode is great. If you kill the batteries you can input 240 volts from a generator and the inverter will become a 24-volt, 85-amp battery charger. This charger function is useful for cloudy or snowy days when your solar panels aren’t working. Of course I have my system set up for manual operation of the inverter charging. Like most inverters the AIMS shuts off at a selected low input voltage so as to not kill the battery bank completely or harm the inverter from operating on low voltage.
To give you an idea of what 6000 watts will do, I can run a small, wire feed arc welder or a ¾-horse air compressor. I use traditional power tools, a concrete mixer and a spot welder. I have yet to find something it won’t run, I just can’t run everything at once.
A super easy way to take the first steps on your path to grid independence is this little 300-watt, true sine wave, 40-volt input Ryobi. It doesn’t have a lot of power but if you already own 40-volt Ryobi tools like I do it makes a nice emergency back up power supply. You can run a lamp or an Internet router, maybe a small monitor or television. Also you can charge phones with a couple USB ports. Ryobi makes a 150-watt unit but 150 watts is too small to be much use.
If you don’t have 40-volt Ryobi batteries this Bestek true sine wave, 500-watt, 12-volt input inverter will turn any 12-volt car battery into a 120-volt power source. If your power goes out during a big storm clip the leads onto your car battery and you’ll have back up power not reliant on The Man. Just remember to run the car every hour or so to recharge the battery or just leave the car running. At 500 watts you can do some damage with this thing (maybe even run a small refrigerator).
I mentioned earlier about rotating inverters. Back before the advent of fancy, complex inverters a brush-type DC motor turning an AC generator provided a simple, reliable method of inverting DC into AC. The waveform it produced was true sine. It wasn’t that long ago either as I worked on this type of inverter back in the 1970s. I’m guessing it wasn’t as efficient as the new ones and the frequency may drift a bit. The motor-inverter used a lot of copper compared to modern stuff but it worked ok. If you find an old rotating inverter in a junk pile grab it; it would be fun to mess with.
That’s enough inverter chat, it’s too much geeking for me. My head is spinning from typing about it. Hopefully this will help you decide which inverter will suit your needs. If you’re interested in this sort of stuff we’ll cover batteries, solar panels, generators, wind generators, loads, and how to tie the mess together in the future, so be sure to subscribe to our ExhaustNotes.us email alerts and you won’t miss a thing. Unless of course you want to miss a thing.
Brumby, my 1992 Jeep YJ, was a stinky ride whenever I filled the gas tank. It was so bad I tried to fill it less than 3/4 full to keep odors down. That worked for a while but the problem became worse as time stayed on its ever-forward push towards entropy. The thing got so bad raw fuel (is there any other kind?) would slosh out on rough roads.
In addition, the in-tank electric fuel pump kept getting noisier and noisier. If I let the tank drop below ½ it made a real racket that you could here over the flapping canvas roof and the squeaking suspension. These two issues combined left me with a usable tank capacity of between 1/2 and 3/4, or about 37 miles in layman’s terms. I knew I had to drop the tank and have a look at the situation.
The Jeep YJ tank is behind the rear axle and attached to a steel skid plate. After unhooking the fuel fill hoses, no easy feat, you have to use a floor jack to let the tank down. I siphoned out as much fuel as I could to make the tank lighter. Once you’ve got the tank lowered and a bit of clearance you can disconnect the rest of the fuel lines. Being fuel injected there are three lines: pressure, return and a small vent that goes to the charcoal canister I think.
The big leak was at the fuel pump flange. The YJ’s tank is an aftermarket, rotocast plastic unit. This pump-to-tank area warps with age. There is no metal flange cast into the tank top to insure a flat gasket surface. Look for this feature on your next Jeep YJ gas tank purchase.
Removing the fuel pump assembly revealed that the replacement pump was not an exact replacement. The new fuel pump’s electrical connections were reversed but there was plenty of slack in the wires to reach. The bottom pickup of the new pump didn’t quite fit into the pickup screen correctly so I messed around with the extra rubber bushings that came with the new fuel pump until I got something that worked.
I managed to get the fuel pump installed into the new assembly in only a few hours. Remind me next time to spring for the complete pump assembly. When I reinstalled the pump assembly I used a new gasket and a steel backing plate that came with the gasket. Copious quantities of black RTV silicone filled the dips and voids of the warped plastic tank top.
I cleaned and re-painted the gas tank skidpan and attached the tank straps to the pan. Now the whole assembly is situated on the floor jack, rolled into position and jacked up into place only pausing long enough to connect the new rubber fuel lines (also from Amazon!).
Some YJ owners cut out the floor to replace the fuel pump. That’s a good idea but it isn’t very hard to drop the tank. For roadside emergency repairs a hatch cut into the floor would make replacing the pump a half-hour job instead of the two days it took me. I think I’ll do the hatch next time.
Brumby is running fine with its new fuel pump and I can fill the tank without fuel sloshing out onto the hot exhaust pipe. My fuel mileage has improved slightly without the constant loss of gasoline from the leaky tank. The old pump looked like original equipment and lasted 29 years. Stay tuned to ExhaustNotes for a follow up report when the new fuel pump quits.
I’ve been watching these cheap, cheerful, Chinese 7-inch headlamps sold through Amazon for quite a while. There are about twenty different sellers selling twenty different brand names of the same basic headlight. Normally priced around 25 to 30 dollars, this Qiilu brand light popped up on sale for 8 dollars and there was a coupon you could apply to the sale at checkout. It was a crazy good deal. When all was said and done Qiilu paid me 35 cents to receive their headlight. Ok, it wasn’t that good of a deal, but the light was like 7 dollars with shipping included.
This headlight, like all of them on Amazon, comes with LED turn indicators or daytime running lights built into the outer edges of the lens. The entire LED cluster is removable but I plan on leaving them in and not connecting the wires. By the way, the light came with no wiring instruction so it’s kind of hit or miss. I only need the 3-wire main H-4 bulb for my project.
“What project is that?” You may well ask and I’ll tell you. The 2008 Husqvarna SMR 510 comes stock with the worst headlight ever installed on a motorcycle. It’s a 35w/35w incandescent type that has a strange socket more like a taillight bulb than a headlight. Replacement bulbs are easy to get online but impossible to find at any auto or motorcycle shop. And you’ll need to order a lot of them online as the stock bulbs only last about 250 miles before falling to pieces. The plastic reflector housing is slowly melting under the 35-watt bulb so increasing the wattage is out of the question.
I don’t know what went wrong with the reflector design but the Husky casts a gloomy glow not more than 30 feet ahead. Many a night I would ride home at 25 miles per hour, even then outrunning my lighting. As a stopgap I bolted on a large LED spotlight for off road use and it lights up things pretty well but is totally illegal for highway use as it blinds oncoming drivers the way I have it adjusted.
Enter the Qiilu. I’m removing the Husky headlight complete and replacing it with the Qiilu. The Qiilu uses standard bulbs found in any auto store so even if the bulbs continue to blow out I can re-light the sucker just about at will. The Qiilu reflector is twice as large as the stock Husky unit and uses a halogen bulb so I’m hoping for improved light pattern and strength.
But enough about my problems and me: How much headlight do you get for 8 dollars anyway?
Turns out quite a bit. The Qiilu is mostly plastic except for the metal trim ring. The thing weighs nothing. The reflector and lens looks pretty nice. The light came with some universal mounting brackets and stainless steel, button-head fasteners that are worth 8 bucks all by themselves. I probably won’t use the brackets as I plan on fabricating a couple ears and re-using the Husky’s rubber band style headlight mounts. Any vibration I can muffle might make the bulbs last longer.
The Qiilu comes standard with a 35-watt bulb that is supposed to be yellow colored. I don’t see it but maybe a night it would. I’ll replace the bulb with a white 35-watt halogen that will cost more than the entire headlight.
The housing has a large opening in the back and I hope to stuff a lot of the loose, exposed wiring behind the stock headlight into the new housing. I may change the sheet-metal screws holding the rim to the housing to machine screws for a more secure attachment.
Look, this isn’t a super high quality lamp, but then I’m not a high quality person. It’s cheaply made but seems to have all the right parts in all the right places. The housing is not metal so will probably break if you hit a tree. The thing is, the Husqvarna headlight the Qiilu is replacing is even worse. I expect a rock hitting the Qiilu square in the lens will crack the thing but maybe not. For 8 dollars it’s worth a try and beats the heck out of no light at all.
When I recently visited good buddy and custom gunsmith TJ of TJ’s Custom Gunworks to discuss a trigger job on my new Colt Python, I noticed a custom SIG P220 in .45 ACP in his shop. The SIG had a very unusual finish. The trigger work was incredible, with as crisp a single action trigger pull as any I have ever felt. I’m hoping the Python’s will be as good after TJ works his magic on it (jumping ahead, it is, and that will be in a future blog). I asked TJ about the SIG, and in particular, if I could share it with our blog readers. Here’s what TJ told me:
I haven’t taken photos of my urban camo P220 yet; I’ll do that over the weekend. Here are some photos of his little brother, the P239, in .40 S&W.
The camo finish is a 6-layer process. I did a full LEVEL 1 package on it, and since it was already DAO (Joe’s note: That’s double action only) I did a full bob on the hammer, slightly lifted the slide catch, melted the edges and corners, satin polished the barrel and extractor, applied orange DayGlo on the front sight, installed camo Duracoat on the Hogue rubber grips, and I fitted my TJ hex head grip screws. I can email you more details of what I did if you need it over the weekend.
These are the photos TJ sent. The first one is the 239 SIG as TJ acquired it, the next one is one of the steps in the camo application process, and the last two or three are the finished gun.
This TJ-customized SIG 239 sure is impressive. It’s in a powerful chambering, it’s compact, all of TJ’s customs are super reliable, and the gun just has a cool look. Whoever ends up owning it is going to have one hell of a handgun. TJ tells me he’s going to be listing the gun you see here on Gunbroker in the near future (at a price that seemed to me to be way too low).
If you’ve ever thought about having a custom handgun built to your specifications, TJ is the guy you want to talk to. One of the gun magazines described TJ’s work as “duty jewelry you can wear.” That sounds accurate. You don’t have to be here to use his services; most of TJ’s work is for folks in other states. Take a few minutes and check out the photos of prior TJ custom handguns on the TJ’s Custom Gunworks website.
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A quick note: The Python is back from TJ now and the trigger is superb. The double action went from 9 1/2 to 9 lbs and it is much smoother. The single action trigger went from 5 1/2 lbs (with a lot of creep) to a what I would call a breaking glass, creep-free 2 1/4 lbs. It feels better and I am seeing an immediate improvement on target. If you own a Colt Python, trust me on this: You need a TJ trigger job on yours. It completely changes the character of the revolver. Watch for an upcoming blog on the new Python with its improved trigger.
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I met Charlie Wilson a couple of times when I was an engineer in the munitions business, so Charlie Wilson’s War had a special attraction for me when it was first published. Charlie Wilson was a US Congressman from Texas, and to say he was larger than life would be a huge understatement. Tall, good-looking, a booming voice, a warm personality, and his trademark navy blue suits, white shirts, and suspenders made Mr. Wilson both awe-inspiring and approachable. Larger than life, as I’ve already said. Charlie Wilson was someone who was instantly likeable. I’ve never met anyone like him.
We made ammunition, mines, and cluster bombs in those days, and in the 1980s our business was (if you’ll pardon the pun) booming. My specialties were cluster bombs and mines; we had a sister division that designed and manufactured 30mm A-10 and 25mm Bushmaster ammo. Congressman Wilson’s interest in us was in the ammo side of the business, and as a relatively high-rolling young dude I was able to attend the meetings when he was in town. Charlie’s efforts were focused on arming the Afghan rebels trying to kick the Russians out of Afghanistan and back to the Motherland, and what they desparately needed was something that could knock down the Hind helicopter. That’s where we came in. The Hind was an armored helicopter (a flying tank, essentially), and we made 30mm ammo that could knock out Soviet tanks (which it did in droves during Operation Desert Storm, our war that would follow a decade later).
President Reagan didn’t want to give the Afghan rebels the shoulder-fired anti-aircraft Stinger missile, as he was concerned about those weapons falling into the wrong hands. But he was okay with providing purpose-built, shoulder-fired weapons that would use A-10 ammo. Now, I know what you are probably thinking: The A-10 30mm round has more muzzle energy than a World War II 75mm Howitzer round, and there’s no way anyone could fire one of those from the shoulder.
Well, hold that thought. The 30mm anti-Hind rifle was shoulder fired, but not in the sense we would ordinarily think of a shoulder-fired weapon. The deal was you backed up to a rock or a tree, put the butt of the rifle against it, and then sort of got underneath it. Like I said above, that’s where we came in. We provided the ammo.
Ultimately, the program outlined above was cancelled and President Reagan okayed selling Stingers to the Afghan rebels. Before the Russian chopper pilots could learn (but instantly and intrinsically came to understand) the words to Patsy Cline’s hit tune, Stingers were doing what they were designed to do. The Stingers were astonishingly effective, and within a few days of their arrival, the Soviets realized they were in Deep Geshitski (as they say back in Mother Russia). It wasn’t too long before they rolled back across the bridge to the Soviet Union. Come to think of it, not too long after that the entire Evil Empire collapsed. Charlie Wilson was one of the guys who made it happen.
I don’t mind telling you that I was in awe of Charlie Wilson, and when the book (Charlie Wilson’s War) came out, I bought and read it immediately. Then it was made into a movie with the same name (Charlie Wilson’s War), and we similarly saw it immediately. Tom Hanks (one of the all time greats, in my opinion) was good in the lead role, but as Lloyd Benson might say, he was no Charlie Wilson. Mr. Wilson could have played himself. He had the right kind of personality and magnetism for it.
The good news is that Charlie Wilson’s War is still in print (it’s one of the best books I’ve ever read), and the even better news is that if you’re an Amazon Prime subscriber, Charlie Wilson’s War is running on that platform right now. Trust me on this: It’s one you want to see.
I’ve been working on Zed, my Kawasaki Z1, trying to get it ready for touring. I get the feeling that it will soon be safe to knock about the country again and if not, that the general population doesn’t give a damn whether they contract the virus or not. To that aim I purchased a pair of slick looking goatskin saddlebags from Amazon. I like to keep Bezos in the chips so I figured a pair of $33 Harshali bags all the way from Rajasthan would do the trick.
I didn’t want giant saddlebags, just something for tools and water maybe a snack so I thought the 11″ wide, 8″ tall, 3″ Harshali bags would be sufficient. Being male, I assumed 11-inches would be a fairly good-sized bag, you know? Turns out they looked pretty stupid on the Kawasaki. What looked stupid on the Kawasaki looks just right on the Husqvarna so that’s where the Harshali (one bag, right side) ended up.
The saddlebags look well made. The leather is as thick as a goat, I guess. The metal buckles seem sturdy and are a slightly tight fit for the straps. Like the long running joke in the British sitcom, Are You Being Served, I’m sure they will ride up with wear. One area I may reinforce is the frame strap-to-bag rivet. They seem sturdy enough for street riding but I bounce the Husqvarna of rocks and other hard objects. Two thin steel plates riveted with the leather sandwiched between might be the way to go.
The Harshali bags have several zipper compartments and dividers inside. Being only 3-inches deep these dividers seem pretty dumb but who am I to say. The saddlebag design looks like a lady’s purse missing the handle. That may actually be what they are but I’m secure enough to strap one on.
On the outside face of the bag there is a small pocket that would hold a pack of cigarettes if I smoked or a compact if I used face powder during a ride. It’s a good place for a couple-three candy bars or your bundle of sage.
The reviews on Amazon lead me to believe there may be two saddlebag factories in Rajasthan one building beautiful, sturdy bags and the other turning out stinky, ill-sewn, moldy trash. I got the good set. They smelled like leather the buckles and rivets were rust free.
I’m happy with the Harshali bags so far. Only time will tell if they hold up to the rough and tumble world of motorcycle touring. Which reminds me: I still need a set of bags for the Kawasaki. Bezos is laughing all the way to the bank.
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The Colt Python is an iconic handgun that stands out as the pinnacle of the gunmaker’s art. They were originally offered by Colt as their premier .357 Magnum revolver in a run that spanned decades and offered several variants: Blue steel, nickel-plated steel, brushed stainless steel, bright stainless steel, and barrel lengths of 2 1/2, 4, 6, and 8 inches. For a brief period, they even offered one chambered in .38 Special only. That all ended a few years ago when the revolver market subsided and black plastic, semi-auto 9mm gangbanger guns held sideways took over the silver screen (there’s absolutely no accounting for some folks’ taste, I guess). Then, in a surprise move, Colt introduced a re-engineered Python last year, in stainless steel only, with either a 4 1/4-inch or 6-inch barrel. I had to have one, and about a month ago, I scratched that itch.
The new Python carries a hefty $1499 price tag and they are just about impossible to find. And when you do see one, it is always substantially above MSRP. I don’t see the prices coming down on these guns, either. The original Pythons sell for $3K or more (mostly more), and with guns in high demand now and for the forseeable future, I think you’ll always always be able to get your money out of a Python if you ever wanted to sell it. I don’t see the prices going anywhere but up, and like I said, it is near-impossible to find a new Colt Python. But I know people in high places, I got a hell of a deal on my Python, and I am enjoying it enormously. Just looking at it is fun.
I went to my gun club a few days ago to shoot the new Python for the first time, and in a word, it was spectacular. I’ll get to that in a second.
My Python has a 6-inch ventilated rib barrel. The revolver is polished stainless steel and it looks great. The roll marks on the new Python are very similar to the original Pythons. Very classy, in my opinion.
One of the reasons Colt stopped making the original Pythons a few years ago is they were too expensive to manufacture, as they required too much hand fitting of the revolver’s internal components. Colt’s re-engineering effort made all but one internal part capable of being CNC-machined to final dimensions, and in the modern Python hand-fitting is required for only one component. What that did was dramatically improve the double action trigger pull, and somewhat degrade the single action trigger pull. The double action trigger is short and sweet, and the hammer travel is only about half what it used to be. The single action trigger pull is, well, different. Read on, my friends.
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Single action, by design on the new Python, has a some take-up and you can actually see the hammer move a little further to the rear when you squeeze the trigger shooting single action. Think of it as a single action trigger that adds a little bit of double action to the dance before it releases the hammer.
I thought there was something wrong with the revolver, but my contact at Colt told me the new Pythons were designed that way to meet the California and Massachusetts drop test requirements. It is definitely not a “breaking glass” single action trigger; it’s closer to pulling the trigger on a Glock (that’s not intended to be a compliment). Double action, though, is absolutely outstanding. It’s a shorter pull than any other double action revolver I’ve ever fired and I like it. I suppose some people might think it’s a good thing that the gun meets the drop test requirements of left-leaning governments. Me? I’d go with Door No. 1 and refrain from dropping my loaded $1499 revolver.
Anyway, the single-action trigger threw me for a loop, but I adjusted to it quickly during a dry firing session. I don’t notice it anymore, and as you’ll see below, it sure hasn’t hurt accuracy.
Fit and finish on the new Python are top notch. You can see that in the photos on this blog, which I shot during and after an extended range session. I probably should have taken pictures before I fired the new Python (when the gun was factory immaculate), but hey, it is what it is.
The new Python has a red ramp front sight, which I like. There is no white outline rear sight (it’s plain black). The combination works well, as the targets you see here show. The Python also has a recessed crown, unlike the original one, which was flush. The recessed crown better protects the bore.
My first shots were 50 rounds I put through the gun using my standard .38 Special target load (2.7 grains of Bullseye and a 148 gr wadcutter, loaded on my Star reloader), all fired single action. I shot from the 50-foot line and it was windy as hell. I had to stop a few times to walk downrange and add more staples to the target because it was starting to come loose, and the target stand was swaying toward and away from me as the wind rocked it. I was shooting, literally, at a moving target.
A complete box of .38 Special wadcutter ammo…50 rounds fired at 50 feet firing single action. All those extra staples were needed to keep the wind from tearing the target off the stand.
I was surprised (and pleased) at how stunningly accurate the new Python is. I hadn’t touched the sights, and it was punching holes right where I wanted right out of the box. It put an entire box of ammo into the bullseye with a standard 6:00 hold and the sights left as they came from the factory. That’s a first for me, and I’ve been doing this a long time. The bottom line: The new Python is accurate.
.38 Special ammo loaded with 148-grain wadcutter bullets. The bullet’s “wadcutter” nose profile cuts a clean hole in the target. I used mixed brass shooting the new Python for the first time.
Then I shot another box of 50 cartridges (using the same .38 Special target load I used for the target above), but this time shooting double action. Let me make the point again: These two boxes were the first time I ever fired the new Python. Here’s my second 50 rounds on the target, fired double action.
Another 50 rounds at 50 feet, this time shooting double action. Not too shabby, if I do say so myself. The new Python’s double action trigger is superb.
Eh, one shot went out of the bullseye (it’s that one in the 9-ring, just outside the 10-ring, on the right). Like I said, it was windy out there. But still, for me, this was phenomenal double action shooting. It’s the best I’ve ever done shooting double action, actually.
Then I thought I’d try two 5-shot groups on the 50 foot standard pistol target with .357 ammo (all targets shown here were shot at 50 feet). As you know, a .357 Magnum handgun can shoot either .357 Mag ammo or .38 Special ammo. I brought along some of my standard 357 Magnum reloads (15.7 grains of Winchester 296 powder and a 158 grain Hornady jacketed hollow point bullet). This is a load I’ve been using since my Army days and it does well in any .357 Magnum revolver I’ve ever owned. It came from the pamphlet Winchester published in the 1970s for their powders. It performed superbly well in the new Python.
.357 Magnum shots at 50-foot targets. Point of aim was 6:00 for all shots. Bring it on…fire and brimstone…the new Python handles full power .357 Magnum loads well.
It’s easy to forget how powerful the .357 Magnum cartridge is unless you fire it back-to-back with the .38 Special. The .38 Special is a very manageable cartridge with moderate recoil, especially in a big, heavy, 6-inch handgun like the new Python. When I shot the .357 Magnum loads, I was instantly reminded that the .357 is a real barn burner. Think big recoil and lots of muzzle flash and blast. It was cool, and the big Python handled full power magnum loads well.
As I already mentioned, it was very windy and gusty on the range (two tractor trailers were on their side on I-15 when I drove out to the club). I was the only guy out there (I’m probably the first guy to visit our range with the new Python, too). On a calm day, I’m sure I could do better than the targets you see above.
I finished up another box of .38 Specials shooting 158 gr cast flatpoint Hursman bullets (also loaded with 2.7 gr of Bullseye), shooting at one of those green star target things you throw on the ground (my daughter bought it for me a few years ago and I think the thing is going to last forever). I walked it out to 50 yards with repeated hits, and I’ll bet I didn’t miss but two or three times out of 40 or so rounds.
There were no malfunctions of any kind in the approximately 150 rounds I fired through the new Python. No light strikes, no misfires, and no jams. And like I’ve been saying, accuracy was stellar. It’s almost like the new Python is laser guided.
A prancing pony…the rampant Colt logo that has adorned Colt firearms for more than a century and a half. Long may it live!
You know, there’s an old saying: You get what you pay for. To that, I would add the qualifier: Sometimes. In the case of the new Colt Python, this is one of those times. I love the new Python. It’s an iconic firearm and if you are thinking about getting one, my advice is this: Do so. You won’t be disappointed.
Colt has a custom shop, Remington has a custom shop, Winchester had a custom shop, Savage has a custom shop, Springfield Armory has a custom shop, CZ has a custom shop, and Smith and Wesson has a custom shop. It seemed Ruger was the only one of the big players that didn’t have a custom shop.
That’s changed. Ruger recently announced that they, too, now have a custom shop, except they do things differently. Rather than taking orders for custom features on their regular line of firearms, Ruger’s approach is to produce limited numbers of highly-customized guns. Stated differently, Ruger picks the features they want to add to their custom guns; your choice is to purchase it (or not). It’s not a bad way to go.
Note the new Super GP100’s dark PVD finish, the green fiber optic sight, the slotted barrel shroud, and other custom touches.
Ruger’s two most recent custom shop models are revolvers they call the Super GP100; one chambered in 9mm and the other chambered in .357 Magnum. These revolvers have a number of custom features, including a shrouded and vented barrel, 8-shot capacity and the ability to use star clips for speedy reloads, radically-fluted cylinder (I like the look), PVD (that’s physical vapor deposition) finish, polished and slicked up trigger and internal componentry, oversized Hogue hardwood grip, an 11-degree barrel crown (that’s supposed to enhance accuracy), and a fiber-optic front sight (never had one of those before; I’m eager to see if it really does anything for me).
Befitting its custom status, the Ruger Super GP100 comes with a higher-quality carrying case.
The Super GP is offered in two chamberings: .357 Magnum and 9mm Parabellum. The 9mm version is not approved here in the Peoples Republik of Kalifornia. That’s probably okay, as I would go for the .357 if given the choice. But that’s not a choice that’s going to be offered any time soon. Read on, and you’ll see what I mean.
The 9mm version of Ruger’s new Super GP100 revolver. It looks good. Note the shorter cylinder.
I like the way Ruger handled the 9mm Super GP100. The cylinder is shorter to match the 9mm cartridge, and the barrel extends back into the frame. This means the 9mm bullet has less of a jump to the rifling in the barrel, which should improve accuracy. It’s the same thing Smith and Wesson does on its .45 ACP revolvers.
Ruger doesn’t stock these guns. True to the custom shop concept, Ruger builds them as orders are taken. But it wouldn’t do any good to order one now, unless you just want to get a place in line. Due to the press of handgun orders induced by the election, the pandemic, and the recent civil rioting in major US cities, Ruger has its workforce focused elsewhere on meeting the unprecedented demand for its standard guns. As an aside, it’s tough to buy ammo right now, too, for the same reasons. That’s not bothering me, as I reload on my RCBS reloading gear and I’m well stocked.
I’m in the market for a .357 Mag revolver, but I’ll probably go with a more traditional handgun. Maybe a .357 Blackhawk or a S&W Model 27. I’ll keep you posted.
Revolvers, rifles, reloading, and more…check out our Tales of the Gun page!
I met Charlie Wilson a couple of times when I was an engineer in the munitions business, so 
had a special attraction for me when it was first published. Charlie Wilson was a US Congressman from Texas, and to say he was larger than life would be a huge understatement. Tall, good-looking, a booming voice, a warm personality, and his trademark navy blue suits, white shirts, and suspenders made Mr. Wilson both awe-inspiring and approachable. Larger than life, as I’ve already said. Charlie Wilson was someone who was instantly likeable. I’ve never met anyone like him.
