Arizona Moto Camping

By Mike Huber

One of the advantages of living in Arizona most of the year is that you can ride every day, comfortably (I added “comfortably” because I know there is some guy or gal in Maine riding year-round in sub-arctic temps with snow).  We in Arizona can enjoy our passion for camping in all four seasons because of the extreme elevation changes, which allow moving to different climates with a one or two hour drive.

Arizona has an endless amount of camping areas, both dispersed and in formal campgrounds.  I thought highlighting two ends of the spectrum in would be a great way to convey the vast diversity Arizona offers.

Forest Road 300: Mogollon Rim

Forest Road 300 begins in the west off Arizona State Road 260 and ends 42 miles later near Payson’s Arizona State Road 87. The Mogollon Rim is home to the largest ponderosa forest on earth.  Although there are maintained campgrounds along this road, I prefer to disperse camp.  This provides one with the rare opportunity of awaking to an overlook in which you can see for over a hundred miles.  This spectacular view is something that a formal campsite cannot provide.  The road for the most part is in decent shape (excessive rains this year may have changed this however) and can be completed without a 4-wheel drive vehicle.

When traversing the 7,000+ ft elevation of the Mogollon Rim I will usually just ride down the many side roads until I come upon a campsite that isn’t too crowded or exposed, which I can then call home for the evening.  One of the main risks as you are indeed so exposed is that of lightning strike.  You may be able to find a perfect cliffside dispersed campsite but be aware that weather changes frequently and it is never okay to set up camp outside the tree line in this area. In fact, as you scout out your site it is wise to look up at the trees.  If you see many that have been damaged from previous lightning strikes, this is not a location in which you want to camp.

Another benefit to this area is the cooler weather at these elevations, which makes for a perfect Arizona summer trip.  The temperatures can be easily 20 degrees cooler than it is in Payson, which sits at 5,000 feet.  The refreshing temperatures and light breezes in the summer make this a perfect location for spending an evening around a campfire with friends while you enjoy the endless views.

Lake Roosevelt: Cholla Campground

I was hesitant to write about this location as it is my go-to happy place in winter and probably one of my favorite campgrounds in the southwest.  In winter it can be a cold drive if you are in northern Arizona until you drop into Payson, where the temperatures quickly gain 15 to 20 degrees and provide reassurance you’ll experience a perfect lakeside camping night (lakeside camping is a rare treat in Arizona).

Cholla Campground is part of the National Park Service so if you have a Senior or Veterans pass the fee is only $12 ($24 without the pass).  The site provides water, showers, toilets, and a beautiful lakeside view with an abundance of wildlife.  Having an elevation of just over 2,000 feet assures that on most nights, even in winter, it doesn’t get uncomfortably cold.

Another advantage to this campground is there are “tent only” loops so you can distance yourself from those noisy generators and the RV crowd if you choose to.   Choosing these loops provides a quiet night as you watch eagles fly by in the evening with their dinner in their talons while you cook a steak over hot coals while having a 360-degree view of the best sunsets.

Arizona is a much more diverse region than most people think it is.  This unique state isn’t all cactus and barren desert, and the above two locations highlight this diversity.  Motorcycle camping in Arizona can be a year-round pastime without being smothered in heat or waking up with a frozen water bottle (both still seem to happen to me all too frequently).

What are your favorite camp locations in your home state?


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The Wayback Machine: We’re not in Kansas anymore, Toto…

By Joe Berk

This Wayback Machine post goes back to a blog I wrote for CSC Motorcycles in December 2014.  The nine years between then and now has been quite a blur.  A bit of background…CSC was transitioning from production of its Mustang replica bikes to importing the about-to-be-released Zongshen RX3.  Susie and I went to Chongqing to help finalize the deal, and this was a blog I wrote while I was in that city.


I guess I’ll start by telling you that riding my CSC-150 Baja Blaster, Steve Seidner’s resurrection of the venerable vintage Mustang, has been good practice for me and this visit to Chongqing.   When you ride a CSC motorcycle, you collect stares wherever you go (we call it the rock star syndrome, and we even had a CSC custom in the early days we named the Rock Star).   The photo at the top of this blog is Steve’s personal CSC-150, the Sarge, and it draws stares wherever it goes. That’s sure been the situation with Susie and me here in Chongqing.   Susie and I are the only non-Chinese folks everywhere we’ve been, starting with our getting on the airplane in Beijing, and people are naturally curious.   It’s like riding the CSC…we’re drawing the stares.   Like the title of this blog says, we’re well off the tourist trail on this trip.

The view from our 21st floor hotel room…it stays misty in this mystical city!

After a great breakfast this morning (see the blog below), we asked about the things to see and do in Chongqing, and our sights this morning settled firmly on a cable car ride across the Yangtze River.   We started by grabbing a cab…

I hope this guy knows where we want to go, I thought to myself as we got in his cab…

It’s strange…the cabbie spoke no English, so the guy at the hotel had to explain what we wanted.   Then he gave us a card so that when wanted to return, we could show it to the next cab driver.   Another sign of not being in Kansas anymore.


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It’s a bit on the cold side over here, but riders ride and the Chinese are no exception to that rule.   These folks use their motorcycles as transportation, as trucks, as cabs, and more.

This guy would make a good KLR rider…looks like this bike gets washed about as often as my KLR!

If you take a close look at the photo above, you’ll notice something that’s pretty common here in Chongqing…a set of handwarmers.    These are no-fooling-around, guaranteed-to-keep-your-paws-toasty, sure-fire handwarmers, folks! They go way beyond the heated grips that BMW brags about (and that we’ll be offering as options on the Cyclone, by the way).   I’ll show you a few more motorcycle photos; be sure to check out the handwarmers on many of these bikes.

Here’s another shot…a Chinese scooter equipped with what has to be the ultimate luggage rack…

The world’s ultimate luggage rack?

The Yangtze River cable car ride was awesome.   It’s about 4,000 feet across the river, and we were packed into that little box like sardines.   Going up to the cable car in the elevator gave a hint of what was to come…we were squeezed in with folks I’ve never met before, and I was already more intimate with them than I had been on most of my high school dates.   I guess that’s just a natural consequence of being in a city with 34 million inhabitants.

A scene vaguely reminiscent of a James Bond movie…that’s downtown Chongqing in the mist

In the photo above, just to the right of us is where the Yangtze and the Jialing rivers meet.   It’s the downtown area that you’ll see in the following photos.   34 million people live here.  I’m pretty sure we met about half of them this morning.

First, a photo of a Chinese postal service motorcycle.   They paint their postal service vehicles green.   Zongshen is a big supplier of motorcycles to the Chinese postal service.  Check out the handwarmers on this rig!

A postal service motorcycle in downtown Chongqing…check out the handwarmers and the parcels

Here’s another bike we spotted while walking downtown.

Live to ride…ride to live…and loud pipes save lives.

There were a lot of people out and about.  There were so many people on the sidewalks we were starting to get a little claustrophobic.  It’s way worse than New York City.   You won’t get a sense of that in the photos that follow, mostly because I waited until there were brief instances when the crowds parted to give me a less-obstructed photo.

Fresh fruit delivered the old-fashioned way.
Another fruit transporter.

I grabbed a few more scenes on our walk downtown.

This fellow was making and selling necklace pendants from animal teeth…those are skulls on the ground in front.
Sidewalk art.
Colors abound in downtown Chongqing.

Here’s a cool shot of a youngster who wasn’t too sure about this old guy in an Indiana Jones hat taking his photograph…they don’t see too many people like Susie and me in this neighborhood.

Why is this guy taking my picture?

And of course, the food vendors.   We did a lot of walking and bumping into people (literally; the sidewalks were jam packed…it was wall-to-wall humanity).   It made me a little hungry.   Check out the food photos.

Feeling hungry?
Top Ramen?
I’ll bet it tastes good.
Oranges being delivered the hard way.

Chongqing used to be known in the West as Chun King.   The way the Chinese pronounce it, it almost sounds like Chun King.   When I was a kid, my Mom used to buy Chinese noodles and the name of the company on the can was Chun King.   Little did I know that it was a real place and one day more than a half century later I’d be visiting it!

People…lots of people…and motorcycles…lots of motorcycles!
Another Chinese rider in downtown Chongqing.

Just another photo or two, folks.   The Chinese use these three-wheel vehicles that I guess are cars, but they are based on a tricycle design.   I had not encountered this particular model before, so I grabbed a photo…

A three-wheeler…it’s a cool concept!

I looked inside of one of the three wheelers and it actually looked pretty nice in there.   They are used as taxis.   Maybe we’ll grab a ride in one before we leave Chongqing.

I told Susie that I was getting a bit tired (we’re still fighting the time change).  I think I said I wanted to stop monkeying around and head back to the hotel.   That’s when she pointed this scene out to me…

Monkeying around in downtown Chongqing…

I think that’s probably enough for now.   Tomorrow’s the first day of this visit with the good folks from Zongshen.   I’ve been following all the stuff on the forums and in your emails to me, and I’ll address many of the things you’ve written about.   I won’t be able to post all of it here, but keep an eye on the blog and maybe I’ll get a photo or two of the factory.    I’m pumped, and I’m looking forward to our discussions tomorrow.


That was quite a visit.  I’d been to Chongqing once before, but that was an in-and-out trip, and on the visit described above, Sue and I poked around the city a bit.  I loved it.  It was one of the most beautiful and exotic places I’d ever been.  It was fun because we were in a place most Americans don’t get to visit, I made great friends in China, and it was cool being in on the ground floor of the effort to bring the RX3 to America.  I know there are a lot of people out there who hate China and who think anything that comes from China is of low quality.  I’m not one of those people and I make no apologies for it.

The RX3 was a watershed motorcycle.  It was the only small displacement adventure touring bike in America until BMW, Kawasaki, and others tried copying the RX3.   The RX3 was still the better motorcycle, and I had a lot of fun on mine.

If you’d like to know more about the RX3 and CSC Motorcycles bringing the bike to the US, pick up a copy of 5000 Miles at 8000 RPM.  I’ve been told it’s a good read.


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Gibraltar

By Mike Huber

Needing another vacation and a break from the day-to-day boring humdrum of life (I usually ensure that doesn’t go on for very long) my girlfriend and I decided to head to Portugal and Spain.  It was coming up on my 50th birthday and wanted to do something unique to celebrate this milestone. As we traversed and meandered through both countries I was still trying to come up with that unique idea when a friend had texted me to go to Gibraltar and summit the rock.  That was an outstanding idea. Next stop: Gibraltar!

I Know What I Don’t Know

I only knew two things about Gibraltar: It was an island between Spain and Morocco, and they drive on the opposite side of the road since it is a Territory of Britain.  Both these things I “knew” were incorrect. Gibraltar is a peninsula, not an island, and although it is indeed a British Territory they do not drive on the opposite side of the road as in other British Territories.  The peninsula is just 3 miles long and not even 1 mile wide and most of the peninsula consisted of the giant Gibraltar rock with a lot of narrow winding roads that meander as far as they can go up around that Gibraltar Rock.  Which had me wondering why there was a Ferrari dealership on the peninsula (I am certain it has to do with less taxes there than in their England motherland).

Entering The Territory

Crossing into Gibraltar from Spain was more of a formality and simply consisted of showing our passports at the border, a quick stamp by the immigration officer, and walking into the Territory.  Once leaving immigration we walked across the Gibraltar Airport tarmac. It felt like we were trespassing, other than the traffic lights to alert you when a plane was taking off or landing. Those were not traffic lights you’d want to run.

Once across the tarmac it was a short quarter mile walk to our AirBnB, which happened to be a 30-foot boat in the Gibraltar Marina.  I thought this would be a distinctive place to stay instead of some high-rise hotel where you would be disconnected from the heartbeat of the Territory. This choice turned out to be perfect and we slept great that night with the boat rocking us to sleep in the gentle marina waters.

The Rock

The next day we made our way towards the base of the Gibraltar Rock.  Sadly, you cannot climb to the top of it as it is a military installation.  Disappointed, we took the gondola instead of hiking to the highest point we were allowed to go.

I had read there were some monkeys that lived up on top of the rock that made their way from Morocco via a network of underground caves that went under the Strait of Gibraltar. We were told not to pet or touch them as they are wild animals. Of course, me being one to always follow rules it took under two minutes to befriend one of these little guys and I walked around with him on my shoulder on the observation deck. Clearly, my maturity hadn’t caught up with my now being 50 years old. It didn’t take long before one of the rangers scolded me and stated that they would bite me.  Why would he bite me? We were friends. Ugh. People are always trying to ruin my fun.

We opted to walk down the path instead of taking the gondola back.  This was a wise choice as there were a lot of hidden bunkers from WWI along the way and a really interesting stop called St. Michael’s Cave.  This is a huge, impressive cave that ultimately led down to the Strait.  We only walked in the upper portion of this maze for about 20-minutes since the longer tunnels are closed to the public.  As we toured the cave there was a light and sound show to provide more entertainment and the history of this hidden gem. It was a fun detour to take.

Once we wrapped up the cave experience, we continued down the two-mile path looking over magnificent views as monkeys leaped from trees onto the tops of passing cars to hitch a free ride.  Every time one leaped it would create the loudest “boom” as they carelessly but somehow successfully landed on a car’s roof.  This made for great entertainment for us, but I can’t imagine what the people inside the vehicles thought hearing that noise. Once back at the marina we were hungry and it wasn’t difficult to find a waterside restaurant, an order of fish n’ chips, and a cold beer to wrap the day up in style.

Overall Gibraltar was worth going to visit as we were in the neighborhood.  The territory is more of a winter getaway for the British than a destination one would otherwise visit.  This Territory did indeed make for a fun two days, a unique experience, and a few entertaining stories that I am happy to be sharing with you.


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The 2023 MacManus Award

By Joe Berk

One of the best things that’s happened to me is the MacManus Award, which I received in 1973 (50 years ago this year).  Captain Colin D. MacManus was a Rutgers graduate who was killed in action in Vietnam in 1967.  His memory lives on with this award, and CPT MacManus continues to inspire young Army officers.

US Army Captain Colin D. MacManus, Rutgers University ’63.

Each year the MacManus family presented a Colt 1911 to the graduating Rutgers ROTC cadet who held Captain MacManus’ position in the Corps of Cadets, and in 1973 that cadet was me.  It was quite an honor.  We’ve kept the tradition alive, and I’m happy to report that another graduating cadet has been selected and will receive his Colt 1911 this year.

I still have and I still shoot my MacManus 1911, and 50 years after I received it, I can still hit the target.  I had my MacManus 1911 out just last week.

The groups have grown just a bit over the last half century, but I can still do well with my MacManus 1911.

We’ve reported annually on the MacManus award, and if you’d like to read the earlier posts, here they are:

The Colin D. MacManus Award
The 2020 MacManus Award
The 2021 MacManus Award

Keeping this tradition alive is a good thing.  I’m proud of these young folks.

If you are a 1911 enthusiast, we have a lot more good info on 1911 handguns and loads on our Tales of the Gun page.

Part 1 of the Dingle Way, Ireland – Tralee to Camp

By Bobbie Surber

The Dingle Way trail in Ireland was an epic adventure that left me feeling invigorated and alive. As a lover of hiking and long-distance walking, I knew that Ireland would offer the perfect landscape to immerse myself in nature and challenge my physical limits. I was torn between the Ring of Kerry and the Dingle Way, but after much research and the advice of a dear friend, I chose the latter for its remoteness and stunning vistas.

The Dingle Way is a long-distance walking trail that spans approximately 115 miles across the southwestern region of Ireland. The trail begins and ends in the charming town of Tralee, passing through the picturesque town of Dingle and the stunning Dingle Peninsula. The views along the way are nothing short of breathtaking, with panoramic views of the Atlantic Ocean, the Blasket Islands, and the Macgillycuddy’s Reeks mountain range.

After a long train ride from Dublin, I arrived in Tralee, a charming town in County Kerry. The town is known for its friendly locals, rich history, and stunning natural beauty. It serves as the county seat of Kerry and is the starting point for both the Dingle Way and Kerry Camino trails. After checking into my room for the night, I took advantage and visited the famous Roses of Tralee, the nearby Tralee Bay, and the breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean, rugged cliffs, and rolling hills. My day ended with a hearty bowl of vegetable soup and my newfound love of Red Breast single pot Irish Whisky. Aided by a wee drop of Red Breast, I returned to my lodging and fell into a dreamless sleep.

I woke early the next morning in time to see the light break through a brooding overcast sky. As I sat enjoying the conversation of my host, Veronica, I could not help but linger over my stellar Irish breakfast and excellent strong coffee. Reluctantly I said my farewells and set out for the official first day of my journey. I felt a wave of nostalgia for my past adventures and growing excitement for this one. The weather was typically Irish, with epic wind and rain pounding the trail, but I relished the challenge and pushed myself to keep going. The dark sky contrasted sharply with the emerald foothills, and the wind dared me to remain upright with the weight of my backpack. But I felt alive with the excitement of the adventure.

As the day wore on, I stumbled upon a cozy sliver of a pub in the village of Camp. The bartender’s great-grandfather built the pub, adding a touch of history to my visit. Stepping inside, I was immediately enveloped in warmth and hospitality. The locals were friendly and welcoming, and the music and laughter echoed off the walls. It was the perfect place to recover from a long day on the trail.


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Sipping on a pint of Guinness and chatting with the locals, I felt a deep contentment and gratitude. Despite the day’s challenges, I had made it to this cozy pub, surrounded by new friends and Ireland’s rich history. Moments like these made me fall in love with travel and the thrill of adventure.

After a quick stop at the B&B, I couldn’t resist the allure of the Railroad Pub. Sunday nights were special, with locals gathering to play their instruments and sing. As I walked in, I felt like I had stumbled onto the set of a small Irish independent film. The pub was alive with energy, music, and laughter spilling out onto the street.

The characters inside embodied everything I had imagined about rural Ireland – warm, friendly, and full of life. They welcomed me with open arms, inviting me to join the festivities. I grabbed a pint of ale and found a spot at the bar, taking in the sounds and smells around me.

As the night wore on, the music grew louder and the dancing more exuberant. I couldn’t resist the urge to join in, stumbling onto the dance floor with newfound confidence. The locals cheered me on, and soon I was lost in the moment of joy.

Despite being busy behind the bar, Mike, the owner, took the time to chat with us and ensure we were taken care of. His kindness and generosity added to the magic of the night, making it one I’ll never forget. As I stumbled back to the B&B, my heart full of the music and memories of the night, I knew this trip would be one for the books. The traditional music and singing had truly been the highlight of my journey so far, and I couldn’t wait to see what adventures awaited me on the rest of the Dingle Way/Kerry Camino. With cozy pubs, delicious food, and breathtaking views, I knew this adventure would be epic!


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The Great Pandemic Primer Ripoff

By Joe Berk

If you reload, you know that one of the toughest things to find over the last two or three years has been primers.  I was one of the lucky guys…I laid in a stock of primers and I came through the shortage in fairly good shape.  Primers are available again, but good Lord, the prices are obscene.

Before the pandemic, primers typically cost about $35 per thousand.  That seemed to generally be in line with the last few decades of inflation (when I started reloading about 50 years ago, a brick of 1000 primers cost about $7).  Then the pandemic came along, and BAM!, primers are now selling for $80 to $125 per thousand.  As a former manufacturing guy, I can tell you that is outright gouging by the manufacturers and distributors.  There’s nothing that changed in the materials that go into primers or their manufacturing processes that could possibly justify the 300% to 400% price increase.  The manufacturers and distributors are gouging their customers.

The price increase has attracted at least one new player to the US market (the Argentinean firm Aventuras).  But even those are $79.95 to $95 per thousand.  The manufacturers, distributors, and resellers know that we’re willing to pay those prices so that we can continue to reload, but it’s an outrage.  My message to the primer supply chain is simple:

Shame on you.

Want to know how primers are used in the reloading process?  Check out our series on reloading .45 ACP ammunition.


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CSC’s RX6

By Joe Berk

Great things continue to emerge from CSC Motorcycles, my alma mater and your favorite motorcycle company.  CSC is now importing the new Zongshen 650cc Cyclone, the RX6.  It’s a logical step up.  The first CSC adventure touring motorcycle was the RX3, and I had a ton of fun on it.  You know the story…when CSC first planned to bring that motorcycle to America, I wrote a blog about it and we sold the first one within a few seconds of the blog being published (it went to a buyer in Alaska).  The sales poured in, and literally within days of the RX3 motorcycles arriving in America, we led a tour of 15 CSC riders on a 2000-mile ride through Baja.  It was awesome, and it was pretty gutsy…taking 15 Chinese motorcycles on a ride like that.

It was onward and upward after that…a 5000-mile ride through the western US with a dozen guests from China and Colombia, a 6000-mile ride across China with Joe Gresh, a circumnavigation of the Andes Mountains in Colombia, and many more Baja rides.  Then came the CSC TT 250, the San Gabriel, the RX4 450cc, the 400cc twins, the electric City Slicker, and the RX1E  electric ADV motorcycle.

You’ve probably heard the rumors of the Zongshen/Norton alliance and their skunkworks 650cc twin, and I’m here to tell you the 650cc RX6 is a reality.  I rode the first one in America in the San Gabriel Mountains above CSC’s facilities, and it’s awesome.  And like all of the bikes listed above, CSC is bringing it here.

There are a lot of features on the new RX6 (I’ll list the specifications and some of the features at the bottom of this blog).   What grabbed my attention immediately when I saw the new CSC were the fit and  finish, the color, the dash, and just the overall aura of excellence.  The RX6 is a world class motorcycle.  One of the coolest things is the dash.  Check this out:

The RX6 is a full-sized motorcycle, but it’s not overwhelming.  If I had one I’d probably name it Goldilocks.  It’s not too big and it’s not too small.  It’s just right.

Another cool feature is the wireless key.  It’s like the electronic key on most new cars.  It has a key feature (you know, so you can insert it in any of the various locks on the RX6, like the fuel filler cap), but as long as you have it on you, you can start the RX6 just by hitting the starter button.  You don’t have to put the key in the ignition.

The brakes felt good on my ride in the mountains.  There are large dual disk  brakes up front, a single disk in the rear, and anti-skid braking front and rear.

The RX6 sounds like a motorcycle ought to.  It has a decisive exhaust note, and it sounded good reverberating off the San Gabriels.   It’s fast, too, with noticeably more power than an RX3 or an RX4 throughout the rev range.  I didn’t push it too hard (it was CSC’s first sample in the US), but the power was definitely there.  Zongshen is claiming a 112 mph top end; I think that is realistic and probably a bit of an underestimate.  The one I rode was literally brand new and I was in the mountains, so I didn’t try a top end run.

Zongshen is emphasizing the Cyclone family name (the RX3 is actually a Cyclone, too, but at CSC we made the decision to refer to it as the RX3).   The badging on the motorcycle’s side panels says SR650 (presumably, the SR stands for Sports Road), so we’ll have to see how the bike is named when it goes on sale, and Steve tells me that will be soon.  The motorcycle will carry a retail price of $7195, and as CSC always does, they are offering an introductory “Don’t Miss The Boat” price of $6695.  It’s a certainty that price won’t last long, so…you know…don’t miss the boat.  More info will be available on the CSC website.


CSC 2023 RX6 Specifications

      • Engine type: SR650, 650cc parallel twin, 4-stroke, water cooled, DOHC, 8-valve, Delphi Electronic fuel injection, ECU ignition
      • Bore/stroke: 82mm x 61.5mm
      • Compression ratio: 11.5:1
      • Horsepower: 70 hp at 8500 rpm
      • Torque: 62 Nm at 7000 rpm
      • Transmission: 6-speed
      • Clutch: FCC slipper-type
      • Wheelbase: 57.1 inches (1450mm)
      • Front suspension: 41mm inverted telescopic fork, 130mm travel
      • Rear suspension: KYB preload-adjustable mono-shock, 51mm travel, 142mm rear wheel travel
      • Front brake: Nissin 2-piston caliper, dual 320mm front discs, 5mm thick, Bosch ABS
      • Rear brake: 2-piston caliper, 260mm rotor, thickness: 5mm thick, Bosch ABS
      • Front wheel/ tire: Pirelli 120/70-R17 cast aluminum wheel, tubeless
      • Rear wheel/tire: Pirelli 160/60-R17 cast aluminum wheel, tubeless
      • Overall length: 86.4 inches (2195mm)
      • Overall width: 32.3 inches (820mm)
      • Overall height: 54.9 inches (1395mm)
      • Seat height: 32.3 inches (820mm)
      • Ground clearance: 6.5 inches (160mm)
      • Fuel capacity: 5.5 gallons (21 liters), locking gas cap
      • Estimated fuel economy: 48 MPG
      • Curb weight: 540 lb (245kg)d
      • Top speed: 112 mph (180 kph)
      • Max load, rider and luggage: 396 pounds (180kg)
      • Instrumentation: Cyclone 7-inch, full-color TFT dash, with digital speedometer, tachometer, odometer, tripmeter, fuel gauge, gear indicator, neutral light, temperature gauge, clock, turn signal and high beam indicators; Bluetooth linking to rider’s phone
      • Electronic tire-pressure monitoring system
      • Lighting: full LED lights and turn signals
      • 12-volt and USB charging outlets on dash
      • 300-watt alternator
      • Automotive-type waterproof connectors under seat
      • Tapered aluminum handlebars with bar-end weights
      • Standard engine guards, adjustable electronic windshield, vibration-damping foot pegs, dual curvature rear view mirrors
      • Front and Rear built in recorder and cameras
      • 5,000-mile valve adjustment intervals
      • Easy maintenance supported by a service manual and CSC online tutorials
      • Options: CSC touring luggage packages, accessory driving lights, heated handgrips, and more

Dublin: A Lively Pub and Friendly Locals

By Bobbie Surber

I set off for Ireland with a one-night stay in Dublin as a stopover before traveling via train to walk the Dingle Way, a long-distance walking trail that circles the Dingle Peninsula in County Kerry. It is a 179 km (111 mi) trail that takes about 8 to 10 days to complete, and it is considered one of the most scenic walking routes in Ireland. I will write more about this epic trail in my next post.

After a long flight from the USA, I arrived at Dublin Airport and took a bus to the city center. A half-hour later, I arrived at Temple Bar neighborhood with a blustery short 10-minute walk to my Hostel. I planned to check in and get a recommendation from the staff on their favorite local pub to enjoy a good dinner and a pint of beer before turning in early for a much-needed sleep and an early morning train to start my long-distance walk.


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Well, that was the plan I had scripted for myself, but Dublin had other plans in store for me.

Walking into a local pub packed to the roof with Friday night revelers, I barely had enough room to squeeze inside the entrance door. The pub was so full that it seemed impossible to get to the bar, let alone a table for my dinner or to order my wee pint of beer!  I was turning around and determined to leave when a friendly Irishman quickly put me at ease with his warm welcome and offered me a pint of Guinness. Despite the crowded bar, he skillfully navigated through the throngs of people to a table where a group of Germans welcomed us to join them. Over the course of the night, we enjoyed several pints (okay many pints) and shots of Green Spot Irish whiskey while the lively music had the entire bar singing and dancing. I even danced with my Irishman and a sweet-hearted German with a great sense of humor. At around 2 am, we stumbled out of the pub and continued the revelry at a local place where you got it; more pints and shots were served.

I never actually made it to bed that night; my head was pounding, and my vision was blurry when I returned to the hostel just in time to witness the sunrise and the city come back to life. With barely enough time to collect my backpack, I set out for the next leg of my adventures in Ireland. Despite the hangover and lack of sleep, I called an Uber lift to take me to the train station, and during the ride, the driver asked me about my sightseeing experiences the previous day. When I revealed that I had only visited one small pub, he laughed and declared me a true Irishwoman at heart. Regrettably, I never had dinner that night, but the memories of the vibrant pub and the friendly locals I encountered will remain with me forever.

Sláinte!


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ExNotes Mentors: Bernie Hunt

By Joe Gresh

I’ve worked in the trades most of my life. I don’t pull that “most” figure out of a hat. It has yet to be determined how my remaining years will be spent but even if I started a new career tomorrow there is simply not enough time left to exceed the 50-plus years I’ve spent doing manual labor, unless I live to 110 years old.  So far all the mentors I’ve written about were involved with the line of work I was doing, be it construction, the various marine trades I engaged in or mechanics. Bernie Hunt was a different sort of mentor in that he created an entirely new and unexpected line of work.

Mr. Hunt was the editor of The Key West Citizen, our local daily newspaper way down south in the Florida Keys. For a small town there were a lot of dramatic events happening in Key West seemingly all the time. It was such a clannish place and so vested in the smuggler’s lifestyle that the Feds were constantly blowing into town arresting high officials because local law enforcement was in on the deal, if not outright protecting the crooks. Scandals were plentiful and the news business was hopping.

After one of the many hurricanes that hit our place in Big Pine Key, the whole island was littered with junk. Residents would stack their crap along the roadsides where it sat waiting for someone to haul it away. Big Pine Key was considered The Sticks to Key West and other islands and so we were usually last for any kind of assistance. No matter where you lived in the Keys, local government was slow to react in times of disaster and we had to wait for FEMA to come in and mop up the mess. This took many, many months.

With the stinking piles of trash as a backdrop I wrote a letter to the editor about how the roadside junkyards were a boon to people like me. I found a rare column-shift collar for a three-speed manual transmission Ford Econoline van in the piles. I dug out a nearly complete 1972 Yamaha RT2 motorcycle not far from home. My friends in Big Pine Key called it Beirut Auto Supply because our neighborhood looked like images of war-torn areas in the Middle East.


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Mr. Hunt called me. He said he wanted to know if I was a real person and that he loved the letter and wanted to make it into a column for the Sunday edition of the newspaper. I was pretty excited. He asked if I could come down to the Key West Citizen offices and meet with him. This was pretty cool considering I was a boat electrician and not a writer.

That’s how I met Bernie Hunt for the first and last time. We chatted in his office and he asked, “What makes you so funny?” I was caught off guard by the question since the Beirut Auto Supply story wasn’t all that hilarious to me. I couldn’t think of anything and I told him that I didn’t know, that I was just writing about how it was on Big Pine Key. I felt dumb as hell.

After a bit more chatting, Mr. Hunt said, “Call me Bernie. How would you like to write a weekly column for us?”

To see how weird this question was you have to understand about Key West’s long, distinguished literary history. The Island is lousy with writers ever since Hemingway drank, fought and typed standing up here. You can’t swing a 6-toed cat without hitting a struggling writer. Taking a chance on a boat electrician with zero writing experience and from Big Pine Key when he had dozens of real writers to pick from sitting on the stoop outside his door was just plain foolhardy.

Brian Catterson, an editor of mine at Motorcyclist once told me that the only correct answer to an editor asking you to write a story is “Hell yes.” I didn’t know that at the time but I still said, “Hell yes.” Bernie took me on a tour of the newspaper building introducing me to the people we met along the way. “This is Joe Gresh, he’ll be writing a column for us,” Bernie would say, like I was somebody they should know. The printing room was an analog delight: huge rollers spun giant coils of newsprint into sheets of printed material. Steel dies were laid out and inked, Bernie complained about how the cost of newsprint had gone up and said they would need to raise the price of a copy if it kept up.

When I got home reality hit: How was I going to write 700 words a week? I bent to it and with a lot of help from CT editing the gibberish I produced we managed to get a Sunday column done. And then we did another. And another. And another.

CT typed my handwritten stories and then faxed them to the newspaper where they would be typeset and printed. Deadline was Friday for the Sunday edition. I wrote about 80 Sunday columns over two years for the Key West Citizen. In all that time Bernie never called me except to say that they couldn’t run a story because it was too weird or for legal reasons. The column received many letters of complaint, which I loved. Bernie never gave me direction, writing advice or told me he liked what I was doing: he just kept printing the stuff.

One day Bernie left for another editor’s job. I lasted a few more editions but the new editor from Ypsilanti, Michigan didn’t care for my shtick and stopped printing my stories. I was never actually fired I was simply ignored. I was pretty burnt out from trying to come up with a topic and write a story each week so I wasn’t too upset about the way it ended.

When I decided to write about him I tried to find Bernie online. I can’t tell if he’s dead or alive. The last place I have him living was Las Vegas, Nevada. I found some phone numbers and email addresses and tried contacting him but no dice. After the Key West Citizen he went on to be editor at many different newspapers and magazines. He even won a Pulitzer Prize (I think), so he’s done fairly well without me. Bernie was the most hands-off mentor I’ve had. His method was to point me in an unfamiliar direction and kick me in the ass. It worked well.

If anyone knows where Bernie is now, do me a favor and send him a link to this story.


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A Cup of Joe?

By Joe Berk

So where did the phrase “a cup of Joe” originate?  For the book, that’s easy.  Good buddy Marcus won the naming contest a few weeks ago with his suggested A Cup O’ Joes, which was the first suggestion to arrive in our Comments section and my immediate favorite.  Yeah, that’s the commercial, and yeah, if you haven’t bought a copy already, please do so.  But from where did the term “a cup of Joe” actually emanate?

There’s no conclusive answer, but like many things, there are lots of opinions (making it a near perfect topic for Internet musing, I suppose).  Here are a few I found.

The Navy Angle

One hypothesis holds that “a cup of Joe” is based on a US Navy booze ban.  Secretary of the Navy Josephus “Joe” Daniels prohibited alcohol on ships in 1914.  After that edict, the strongest thing a sailor could drink on board a US Navy vessel was coffee.  Angry sailors coined “a cup of Joe” to describe their coffee as a result.

The Big Jamoke?

Language historians think “a cup of Joe” didn’t enter the English language until around 1930.  Linguists think the term came from an adaptation of the invented word “jamoke,” which was a combination of java and mocha.  “Jamoke” may have become “Joe.”  Eh, that seems a bit farfetched to me, but the term “jamoke” sounds kind of cool to me.  I like it.

An Average Joe

A third hypothesis is that the word “Joe” means something common.  You know, like “the average Joe” (understandably, not one of my favorite expressions).  Because coffee is such a common man’s drink (a common woman’s drink, too, based on the long line of women I always see at any Starbuck’s ordering obscene $8 coffee-based concoctions), the expression “a cup of Joe” emerged.  I don’t put much stock in this one, either.

So what’s the answer?

Beats me.  Maybe good buddy and coffee empresario Ren of Batdorf & Bronson Coffee can weigh in with his opinion.  Or maybe one of our other readers knows.   Let’s hear what you think.

My take on all the above?  “A cup of Joe” just seems to fit.  I am not the sharpest matzo in the box when I wake up in the morning, and I need my coffee to sharpen my thinking.  “A cup of Joe” is an expression that fits perfectly for me.  I’m enjoying mine now.

Oh, one more thing…don’t forget to buy your own copy of A Cup O’ Joes!  And don’t forget to click on the popup ads.