As the title implies, last week was quite a week, and a lot of it focused on Moto Guzzi stuff. The Roman gods are sending me a message, I think, but old age and big bucks will most likely keep my desire to own a vintage Guzzi suppressed. And there’s been some pocketknife stuff, too, leading into the age-old Chinese quality discussion. I’ll get to that in a minute.
The guts of a Guzzi in the Cycle Garden shop. This is a cool place in a hot locale (temperatures sometimes approach 120 degrees in Indio).
I spent Monday morning at Cycle Garden in Indio, California, getting tutored by good buddy Steve on the finer points of Guzzi fork rebuilding. It’s for a piece I’m doing on that topic, and the folks at Cycle Garden couldn’t have been more welcoming. These guys know their stuff, as well they should: They are the largest, busiest, and probably the best in the world at concours-level Guzzi restorations. I developed a bad case of the “I wants” for a restored Guzzi after seeing some of the bikes at the top of this blog, but it’s probably not in the cards.
Just forking around out in the desert…
After treating me to a cup of his famous home-roasted and ground coffee, Steve showed some of the bikes to me. There’s not a single part on a Cycle Gardens restoration Guzzi that isn’t touched during the restoration (both 0n the motorcycle and in the engine). How much? Somewhere in the neighborhood of $40,000 to $50,000. A look at any of the Cycle Garden bikes easily confirms the value is there. But my wallet is light enough already. Watch for more on the Cycle Garden shop; it’s amazing.
The man, the Moto Guzzi, and the legend: Chris Donaldson sitting across the table from yours truly. Buy the book on Amazon. Buy mine, too!
On Friday, I visited another Guzzi shop 130 miles to the west, this time to meet with and interview Chris Donaldson. Chris wrote Going the Wrong Way, the story of his ride around the world on a Moto Guzzi. He just flew into Los Angeles from Ireland to ride across the US. We had a nice meeting, and you’ll be hearing more about Chris in a subsequent blog.
One the pocketknife front, it’s been mostly good (and the good will be featured in upcoming blogs) with several new additions to the collection. But there’s been a couple of bad apples, and that’s increased my smarts about what to look for in a pocketknife.
The Schrade stag-handled folding hunter. The blade wobbled in the knife body when closed. Back it went. I’m still waiting for a replacement. It’s made in China.
The first was a large Buck-110-style Schrade folding hunter with stunning stag grips. The knife arrived and I loved the look of it, but it had a defect. With the blade closed, it wobbled inside the knife body. In my opinion, it should have no side-to-side play, so back it went. I don’t want my money back; I just want a good knife. We’ll see what happens.
The Rough Rider Large Hunter. I love the design, but the knife is no good. The tip lies above the line of the knife body when the knife is closed. Muey malo, mi amigo. This is also a Chinese knife.
The next was another beautiful large hunter, this time from Rough Rider. It’s a beautiful knife, but it arrived with a different problem. On this one, when the knife is closed the tip of the blade sits slightly proud of the knife body, and that means you can catch your hand on it. Who would think to check for this? Apparently, not the folks who manufacture the knife, and not the folks who sell them, either. I bought one from Amazon, and I returned it the next day. I wanted the knife, though, so I ordered it again from Chicago Knife Works. Wouldn’t you know it? The replacement knife had the same problem. Size notwithstanding, it’s an inexpensive knife, but apparently they’re all bad (at least based on my sample of two).
The Rough Rider’s kick. Grinding it down didn’t fix the problem.
I tried grinding down the Rough Rider’s kick (the part of the blade that controls how far it goes into the knife body when it closes), but that didn’t fix the problem. It’s an inexpensive knife (only about $15) and I’m not going to bother returning it. I’ll just look at it from time to time. It will remind me that I’m not as smart as I sometimes think I am.
Stay tuned, my friends. There’s more coming your way.
The Dream is perched on the new Harbor Freight lift and slowly coming apart. I’ve been busy with other projects so don’t freak out if it seems like progress is slow. It’s not me. It’s the environment I work in.
This installment involves a bit of inventory control. I need a decent front rim but all the ones online look just as bad as the rim I have. The parts bike front rim is bad too. They are sturdy and run true but lots of surface rust makes them look bad. I can get new rims on eBay, sold in pairs for around $200 delivered, but I only need one rim. Anyone want to form a syndicate and go halvies on some 305 Dream rims?
$20 kickstand. Sometimes I do it the easy way.
Both of the Dreams were missing their side stands and I debated making one from scratch. Just for kicks I went on eBay and some hero had a side stand for $20 so I bought it. It’s kind of like cheating but It would take me two days to make a stand.
Hopefully these seals will work, keeping the oil inside where it belongs.
I’ve also ordered a set of engine seals. I’ll have the engine side covers off to free up the clutch plates and clean the centrifugal oil filter can. Also I need to remove the alternator to gain access to the starter clutch as it’s hit and miss. I figure it’s a good time to replace the seals. The only one leaking at the moment is the shift-shaft seal but you know how it goes with old rubber. Twenty miles down the road another seal will start leaking. Then another.
Deez Nuts were tight as hell. It took me two days to get them loose.
Getting the Dream’s steering stem apart was an Ossa. The top lock nut was knitted to the cone nut and the thing was tight as hell. Much hammering, heat and penetrating oil was used over the course of two days. The steering stem nuts finally unwed and spun off by hand. All the bearings and races look good with no divots or flat spots to cause erratic steering. There was even soft grease still inside! Impressive for a 63-year-old motorcycle.
The Dream on the maiden lift.
I’ve got the frame off the engine now. It’s a fairly lightweight sheet metal construction. Kind of like a monocoque Norton but with a separate fuel tank. Honda copied a lot of ideas from German and British sheet metal frame manufacturers.
The Dream frame is light. Easy to lift off the engine for an old man.
The frame has a few dings to fix and the Dream is made from pretty thick metal. The dents are hard to get behind to push out. I’ll try the painless/paintless dent remover but I don’t hold out much hope as the frame is twice as thick as gas tank metal. If that doesn’t work I’ll get a stud welder and pull the dents with a slide hammer.
Kind of Kawasaki green for the new paint on the stand. Almost safety vest green. I had a can in stock.
Since I have a new, shiny lift I decided to clean up the old, rusty engine stand to match. I’ve had this stand since the late 1970’s and it’s had everything from a 4-Cylinder Volvo marine engine, many Chevy small blocks and a big, heavy, Ford 427-inch OMC inboard strapped to the thing. The big Ford was pretty bouncy. With the cast iron, water-cooled exhaust manifolds the thing probably exceeded the stand’s weight rating by 300 pounds. I used a 2×4 in the front to help stabilize the engine.
A few aluminum tabs and the Dream engine bolted right up. I’m going to do this method on the next MC engine I work on.
In all those years this will be the first motorcycle engine I’ve had on the stand. It makes everything easy with the mill at hip level. You can rotate the engine 360 degrees by spinning the T-handle. Which begs the question: why didn’t I think of this before?
I’m thinking heavy metallic with candy-copper followed by 2K clear. What are the odds it won’t bubble?
I hear you: not much progress but I’m a bit lame right now and taking it easy for a week or so. What about a 3-part metallic orange for a color? Too much? Atomic Green? Black, red or white is boring.
A few months ago Sue and I visited the Jameson Classic Motorcycle Museum in Monterey, California, for a Motorcycle Classics “Destinations” article. It was a marvelous museum in a marvelous locale, we had a wonderful time, Motorcycle Classics published the article, and I first learned of Emma Booton. Staci Jameson, heir to the Jameson museum collection, explained that several of the bikes on display had been lovingly restored by Emma Booton, whom Staci described as a “restoration goddess.”
I’m currently working on another Motorcycle Classics set of articles featuring how to do different motorcycle maintenance activities, which led me to seek Emma’s advice and, hopefully, to photograph her activities as she did some of the things I would be writing about. Well, I hit a home run there, too. Emma was very willing to support the activity, so Sue and I did another run up to the Monterey Peninsula to visit with Emma at her Moto Town shop.
Emma has a sense of humor, as this photo in her shop demonstrates. That’s Emma on the right.
Emma and I spent a great morning together as she worked through a series of activities on a vintage Honda dirt bike and I snapped away with my Nikon. Emma is a wonderful teacher with a delightful British accent and a very keen sense of humor. It was fun and I enjoyed every second of it.
Emma Booton’s resto mod Triumph Trident. I want it.
While all this was going on, my eye wandered to the other bikes in the shop, and one in particular was visually arresting: A resto mod Triumph Trident. I asked Emma about it and learned it was one of her personal bikes. The bike has been poked out to 900cc, it has larger diameter forks and dual disk brakes, bigger carbs, transistorized ignition, a hotter cam, an oil cooler, and lots more.
I asked Emma if the colors were the stock Triumph purple that was available in those early 1970s Trident days. I remembered that Triumph had a purple, but Emma’s bike was much more vibrant than any Triumph I remembered. “No, dear,” came the answer in that vibrant British accent (aurally matching the Trident’s stunning purple paint). “I knew I wanted purple, but not the Triumph purple, which wasn’t very uplifting. I looked and looked and looked and couldn’t find exactly what I wanted, and then I saw it…the purple on a Roto Rooter truck! I call it Roto Rooter purple!”
Call Roto Rooter, that’s the way…
There weren’t any Roto Rooter trucks nearby, and on the long drive back down to So Cal, Sue and I diligently scanned the other cars and trucks we saw on the road, but we didn’t see any Roto Rooter vehicles. A quick look on Google Images struck paydirt, though, and we saw it. Emma was right. She nailed it: Rotor Rooter purple!
Emma and yours truly.
I would dearly love to own Emma’s Triumph. Not many motorcycles reach out and grab me like that, but the Trident you see here sure did. It’s a good feeling.
One of the many red lines crossed on the way to becoming moto-saturated is owning a motorcycle lift. If a rider finds that he needs a lift then things have gone too far and he needs to reevaluate what the hell is actually up.
I’ve wanted a lift for many years but haven’t been able to justify the expense or space requirements a lift brings to the table. (ha!, get it? Table?)
The lift comes securely packaged in a wooden crate. If you know the price of wood nowadays the lift is almost free!
This particular lift from Harbor Freight cost around $300 when it first appeared on my radar 30 years ago. At the time my shop was a 10×10 metal shed and there just wasn’t enough space to park the thing.
Turns out it was a good thing I didn’t take the plunge as my shed in Florida was flooded several times and the lift would have corroded away. (Ha! Get it? Plunge-flooded? I kill myself!)
My recent acquisition of a pair of Honda Dreams and subsequent crawling around on battered knees got me thinking about a lift again. I have the room now. Floods are unlikely where my shop is situated and the HF sale price of $399 defied quantitative easing, inflation-tracking and recent tariffs on China. In short, $399 seemed like a pretty good deal.
You definitely get your money’s worth in weight as the lift was a heavy bitch to load and unload. Plan on having a few strong backs to move the lift. The guys at Harbor Freight loaded it into the truck with a forklift but I don’t have any strong backs available at home. I had to slide the crate out of the truck and let it fall the last two feet from the tail gate. It wasn’t really a free fall, I had a floor jack mid-crate to act as a fulcrum when the crate cleared the tailgate. Think of it as a controlled crash landing. The crate took the fall in stride and its contents were undamaged by my rough handling. Plus the lift is a sturdy thing, it would take some doing to bend it.
In this Harbor Freight photo you can see how the clamp won’t do much for holding the motorcycle upright.
The lift comes 99% assembled with only the wheels, tie down points and tire vise to bolt on. If you’re handy 1/2 hour should see the project through. There are a few niggling issues though.
Like most things from China Freight the lift needed a few modifications. It goes with the $399 price point.
Slightly reduced nipples to go with the reduced price. If you want to grease your new lift you’ll need to replace the gold Chinese nipples with good old USA style, silver Chinese nipples.
China must have different size grease guns because all of the grease fitting were slightly undersized and didn’t fit a US style grease gun. Attempts to grease the various grease points just pumped gook all around the nipple. I replaced the China-sized nipples with US-sized nipples and the pressurized grease flowed to the desired locations with no ooze-out around the fitting.
This rubber plug is where you add oil to the pump. Warning: it’s a bear (like Ossa!) to get back in the hole.
The owners manual that came with the lift recommended checking the hydraulic oil in the ram. It was slightly low so I put in a few ounces of fork oil. That was the easy part. Getting the little rubber plug back into the ram housing was a struggle with the lift in the lowered position. I finally gave up and raised the lift for access. It was still a PITA to get the plug back in.
Not much weld on sliding part of the clamp.I stuck some more welding wire to help hold the slider togetherHere it is in action. I’ve yet to clamp the rest of a motorcycle to the table so it may fall apart on me.
As delivered, the tire clamp installs in the wrong place. Down on the floor, it doesn’t provide much resistance to tipping leverage. There are many internet solutions for this issue but all of them required spending additional money. I figure at $400 you shouldn’t need to buy more stuff just to keep the bike from falling over.
As delivered the tire clamp is too close to the fulcrum of tip-ology.If all you have is a hammer every problem is a nail. It’s the same when you get a welding machine. I added the tire clamp to the top of the tire stop to gain better leverage.The repositioned tire clamp gets a higher grip for less tip.
The thriftiest way to fix the tire clamp is to relocate the thing on top of the tire stop. This gave me a chance to practice poor welding on a mission critical part. The sliding part of the clamp was lightly welded so I slathered on a bit more metal.
Once the clamp was in place I added a piece of angle iron to prevent jaw-spread, a common occurrence among older motorcyclists. Drilling two extra holes in the angle iron gave me another, more forward attachment point for tie down straps.
This all sounds like a lot of work but it took maybe 2-3 hours and that number includes thinking about things. I’ve got the Dream on the lift for its maiden voyage and it seems to be stable. I give the lift 5 stars for value and 2 deep vein thrombosis’ for HF still not quite getting it right after all these years. If you need a motorcycle lift and don’t mind tinkering and welding a bit the HF lift on sale is hard to beat.
The ’62 Dream gets the honor of being the first to sit atop the HF lift.
Part 1 of this series took us through brass preparation, Part 2 took us through priming, and here we are at Part 3, which discusses powder charging, bullet seating, and case mouth flare removal.
Cast 200-grain bullets, lubed, sized, and gas checked. These are from the Lyman 314299 mold.
I had previously mentioned that I shoot cast bullets in my military surplus rifles, and in particular, I like a gas-checked 200-grain cast bullet. Good buddy Roy Hursman cast these for me. Roy retired and sold his bullet casting gear. I hope I’m able to find somebody that does as good a job as Roy.
This 8-lb bottle of IMR 4227 propellant is good for nearly 2,700 rounds of .303 British ammo.
I use different powders in my rifle cast bullet loads. A good one is IMR 4227, which is what I used for this .303 British load. The secret sauce recipe is 21.0 grains of IMR 4227 with no fillers. I’d like to tell you that I developed this load after extensive testing, but I can’t. It was next to what the Lyman cast bullet manual said was the accuracy load with this bullet and IMR 4227 was in my ammo components locker, so it got the nod, and it worked. I felt no need to experiment any further; the load worked well and was very accurate. This 21.0-grain IMR 4227 load is near the lower end of the loads listed in the Lyman manual. The bullets exited the muzzle at about 1600 feet per second (as tested with my Garmin chronograph), and that’s good enough for me.
I use an RCBS powder dispenser, and once I had it set up to throw 21.0 grains of IMR 4227 propellant, there was no need to weigh the charge for each cartridge because the powder meters so well. I loaded the 20 rounds like it was pistol ammo, placing each empty brass case beneath the dispenser, charging the case, and moving on. After I had charged all 20 cases, I threw another charge into my scale’s powder cup and weighed it again to make sure the dispenser was still on the money. It was (the powder dispenser released exactly 21.0 grains).
It was time to turn to the Lee Ultimate 4-Die set’s bulleting seating die. The first step was to install the bullet seating die in the press and screw it partially in.
The Lee .303 British bullet seating die. It includes a feature for a roll crimp if so desired. The knob on top adjusts the bullet seating depth.
I placed the first bullet over a charged .303 British case (charged with IMR 4227, that is) and raised the ram in the press. Observing where the bullet went (i.e., how deeply it seated in the case), I lowered the die in the press a bit more, repeating the process until I attained the desired bullet seating depth. I wanted the bullets to be seated such that the cartridge mouth was just behind the bullet’s first driving band.
A cast bullet about to be seated in the cartridge case.A seated bullet, positioned exactly where I wanted it.
After seating all 20 bullets in the 20 charged .303 British cases, it was now time to remove the case mouth flare we induced in Part 1 of this series. I probably could have skipped doing so, because I did as I advised in Part 1 (I flared the case mouth just enough to allow the bullet to enter). Even without removing the flare, the cartridges would chamber because the flare was so small. But I like to go for the extra step of removing it just to make sure.
The red arrows point to the remaining flare after seating the bullets. This will be removed with the Lee factory crimp die in the next step.
Lee’s factory crimp die (the fourth die provided in their Ultimate 4-Die set) is what I use for removing the flare. It can also be used (as the name implies) for crimping the case mouth on the bullet.
Lee’s factory crimp die. The arrow points to the cylinder that is pushed up into the die body by the shell holder when the press is fully raised. By adjusting how far the die body is screwed into the reloading press, you can adjust how much crimp is applied.The view from above the Lee factory crimp die. The cylinder shown in the photo above (see red arrow) cams into the four circumferential collets shown in this photo. These four collets apply force to the cartridge case. You can adjust the die to apply no force, just a small amount of force to remove case mouth flare (as I did to my .303 British cases), or to apply a crimp.
By adjusting how far the die is screwed into the press, you can control how much force is applied to the case mouth. You can screw it in just enough to remove the case mouth flare (as I did), or you can screw it further into the press to apply as firm a crimp as you want around the case mouth.
The Lee factory crimp die does not apply a roll crimp; it applies a concentric circular flat crimp around the case mouth periphery. Some folks think this makes the Lee factory crimp independent of case length. I don’t agree with that. On longer cases, the Lee factory crimp will press more case material radially inward than it would on a shorter case (theoretically, if the case were trimmed too short, the Lee factory crimp would apply no crimp). But it’s still more controllable than a roll crimp, and the amount of roll crimp applied is far more sensitive to case length than is the Lee factory crimp. And if you wish to apply a roll crimp instead of the Lee factory crimp, you can still do so with Lee bullet seating die. Just screw the die body in further (while backing off on the bullet seater on top of the die) until the reduced diameter step inside the die body contacts the case mouth enough to provide a roll crimp.
I ran all 20 cases through the Lee factory crimp die after adjusting the die. I adjusted the die to apply just enough radially-inward force to remove any remnants of flare from the case mouth.
After completing all 20 .303 British neck-sized cartridges, I put them in a box and applied a label, as I do with all my reloaded cartridges.
Reloaded, boxed, and labeled. “F2TNT” is my code for fired two times, not trimmed. “NSO” means neck sized only.
How did this ammo shoot? It did well, as the target below shows. I can’t show that my neck-sized-only reloads are dramatically better than full-length resized ammo, but I know I have the other advantages offered by neck sizing (not having to lube the cases, a quicker reloading process, and longer brass life). I am quite pleased with my Lee .303 British die set.
A perfectly centered, tight, 3-shot group at 50 yards, with light recoil and good accuracy. The Lee Ultimate 4-Die set does what it is supposed to.
More reloading, hunting, and shooting stories are here!
In Part 1 of this three-part series on using Lee Precision dies to reload the .303 British cartridge, we covered resizing, decapping, full-length resizing, neck sizing, and flaring the case mouth. Part 2 continues the reloading process.
The next step for me (after the brass is resized and flared) is case cleaning. I use a Frankford Arsenal vibratory polisher. I’ll drop the brass in it and do other things for an hour or so as the brass is polished.
Resized cases in the Frankford Arsenal vibratory polisher. The media is made from corn cobs. I add Dillon’s polishing liquid to it prior to starting the polisher.Finished brass. I like it to be clean and well polished both for aesthetics and for accuracy. When the inside of the case neck is polished, it is free of any lubricant from the resizing operation, and case neck grip (or tension) will be consistent from round to round. Case neck tension variability will increase group size.
After the brass comes out of the polisher, I inspect each one to make sure there are not bits of the polishing media stuck in the primer hole. I’ve never tested to determine if this would interfere with the round firing or if it would cause a flyer, but it’s not the sort of thing that would help.
A primer hole with a bit of media stuck in it. Usually about 10% of the cases have media stuck in the primer hole after polishing. I push it out with a dental pick.A cartridge case with a clean primer hole (i.e., with no media stuck in the primer hole).
When all the cases are completely free of media and all the primer holes are clear, I’ll set them in a reloading tray, as you see below.
Twenty polished cases ready to be primed.
Next, I’ll prime the brass. There are a lot of tools available to do this. I use a Lee Auto Prime, an item that I bought a good 50 years ago. Remember that I mentioned that Lee gear is good? Lee no longer makes this item (I can’t tell you why) but they do have other priming devices available today. For me, this one just keeps on working, and I like how it works. It consists of three groups of parts: The primer tray and feed system, the case holder/primer seater assembly (it installs above the reloading press), and the ram that installs on the press ram.
An old Lee Auto Prime, still in its original box. The two feed chutes on either side of the primer tray are used for either large or small primers. The primer seating assembly components are in the plastic container at the photo’s bottom.Lee Auto Prime components. From left to right: The die body, the priming ram, the two primer rods (one for small primers, the other for large primers), and the spring. The spring goes over priming rod selected for use (as shown here, the large primer rod). The priming ram is installed on the reloading press’s ram where the shell holder would normally be. One of the priming rods, with a spring over it, goes into the die body (see photo below).
I install the case holder/primer seater assembly on top of the ram, then I remove the shell holder on the reloading press ram and install the primer ram on top of the ram, and then I load the primer tray and feed chute.
The Lee Auto Prime die body installed in the reloading press, with the priming rod and spring in place. The primer chute will go over the priming rod and spring, and the shell holder snaps into the die body over the priming rod and spring.The Auto Prime ram installed on the reloading press ram. It fits into the ram where the shell holder is normally installed.The primer chute installed on the primer tray, with 20 primers dropped onto the tray. Note that some primers are facing up, some are facing down, and some are on their sides.The tiny concentric ridges in the primer tray help to flip all primers such that they face up. By gently shaking the tray from side to side, all primers orient themselves to face up. If you shake too aggressively, you’ll drop some of the primers out of the tray. It sounds more complicated than it actually is, and after doing it once, you’ll get a feel for how much “shake” is needed.After getting all the primers into a face up orientation, I put the primer tray cover on the primer tray, and then use a toothpick or the previously-mentioned dental pick to obstruct the primer chute at the primer tray. Then, I’ll place the bottom end of the primer chute in the die body. Finally, I’ll slide the shell holder into the die body and remove the obstruction from the primer tray. The primers will slide down into the chute and the first primer will be in position over the priming rod.
Once the above is complete, I prime each case. I insert each case into the shell holder, and then gently run the press’s ram up. Doing so seats the primer. The beauty of this approach is you can feel each primer being seated, and the power of the ram makes sure each primer is fully seated. When the case is primed, I remove it and the primers in the chute slide down, forcing a new primer into position above the priming rod. I’ll repeat the process until all the cases have their primers seated.
Primed cases, ready to continue the reloading process.
After the above is complete, I’ll have a tray full of cases ready to be charged with propellant. We’ll cover that in Part 3.
One of my favorite rifles is the Enfield No. 4 Mark 2, a bolt action rifle just dripping with history and charisma. The No. 4 Mark 2 was the last in the Enfield rifle series, with a run of 59,000 produced by Britain’s Fazakerly armory for Ireland in the 1950s. It was the last Enfield in a long line of continuously improved rifle designs, and it includes a much-improved trigger design. Most of these Irish rifles were never issued and many were sold in their unfired, cosmoline-laden condition. Mine comes from that group. It’s the one in which I tested the reloaded ammo featured in this blog series.
Once-fired .303 British cartridge cases. They almost look like scaled-down .375 H&H cases.A close-up view of the .303 British case after firing. These cartridge cases are ready for the reloading process.The headstamp. These are Winchester cases. Note the spent and indented primer, which will be removed in the case resizing process.
I have a stash of once-fired .303 British brass acquired from generous friends over the years. I will reload them with 200-grain cast bullets made by good buddy Roy Hursman, sized to 0.313 inches, which I also use in my Modelo 1909 Argentine Mauser and Mosin-Nagant rifle. I thought they might work well in the Enfield (and they did; I’ll tell you a bit about that here and provide much more detail in Part 3 of this series).
The cast lead bullets I load in my .303 British ammo. These weigh 200 grains. They have been lubed (the red grease in the lube grooves), gas checked (the copper cap on the base), and swaged down to 0.313 inches. They work great in the 7.65 Belgian Mauser, 7.62x54R Russian, and .303 British cartridges.
What I didn’t have in my shop was a set of dies in .303 British. I naturally turned to Lee Precision. I believe in Lee reloading equipment. I have their dies for the .22 Hornet, .22 250, .243 Winchester, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 Carbine, .30 40 Krag, .300 H&H, .300 Weatherby, .38 Special/.357 Magnum, .44 Special/.44 Magnum, .45 ACP, .45 Colt, and probably a few others I can’t remember as I type this blog. I also use other Lee reloading equipment. I think their Classic Turret Press is the best reloading press of its type for loading handgun cartridges. The bottom line here is that I’ve never been disappointed with Lee products, and I say that as a guy who has been using Lee gear for 50 years.
I ordered Lee’s Ultimate 4-die set, and what I received surprised me. I received the four dies (which I expected) and a micrometer bullet seating attachment (which I did not). Each Lee die set also includes a little packet of case lube for the resizing operation (it’s not shown in the photos below). It’s a nice touch; Lee basically gives you everything but the reloading press and the components (bullets, brass, primers, and powder) to load a specific cartridge with each of their die sets.
The Lee ULee Ultimate 4-Die set includes four dies normally included in a single box. My set included a micrometer bullet seating attachment not evaluated in this blog series (although I will evaluate it in a future blog). The fourth die (the collet die) was provided in a separate container (see below). In the photo above, we have the full-length resizing die (top), the bullet seating die (bottom), the factory crimp die (right), the micrometer bullet seating feature, the shell holder, and a measuring cup (not used by me). Lee also provides a small pack of case lube (not shown here).The Lee collet neck sizing die, used in lieu of the full-length resizing die to neck size the brass case.
I won’t get into the micrometer bullet seater in this three-part .303 British Lee die set review (that review will occur down the road a bit).
The Lee Ultimate 4-die set includes two resizing dies (a full-length resizing die, and a collet die for neck sizing only), a bullet seating die (that also includes a roll crimping feature), and a separate crimping die for applying what Lee calls a factory crimp. The die set also includes a shell holder (a nice touch, as other manufacturer’s die sets do not) and a powder scoop. I’ve never used the powder scoop; I use a more precise powder dispenser.
The once-fired brass I had on had was good stuff. It was in the original factory boxes and it was in good shape. Because the rifles it had been fired in previously were not my Enfield, I knew I would have to full length resize the brass first to return each case to factory dimensions. To do that, I mounted the Lee shellholder in my press, ran the press all the way up, and then installed the full-length resizing die, screwing it down in the press until it contacted the shell holder. I then retracted the press ram, turned the die another 1/8 of a turn into the press, and locked the die in place with its locking ring.
The Lee .303 British shell holder installed in my reloading press. It snaps into place. Dies and shell holders are typically interchangeable between reloading press and die manufacturers. I use a single-stage RCBS Rockchucker reloading press; Lee dies and shell holders fit it perfectly.Lee’s full-length resizing die installed in the press. This die simultaneously resizes a fired case to factory specification and punches out the spent primer. Note the locking ring on the die body.The business end of the Lee full-length resizing die after resizing a bunch of cases. This photo shows the decapping pin, which removes the old primer.
I lubed each case with the lube Lee provided and ran it through the full-length resizing die, which simultaneously brought the cases back to factory dimensions and removed each case’s spent primer. The full-length resizing dies does both steps in one operation.
I intended using cast bullets in the .303 Enfield, so for me the reloading process included an additional step: Flaring the case mouth. Case mouth flaring allows cast bullets to enter the cartridge case without the case shaving any lead from the bullet. To flare the case mouths, I use a Lee universal flaring tool I purchased decades ago. It’s a clever die set that uses a cone to impart a slight bellmouth to the case.
Lee’s Universal Case Mouth Expander. I bought this in the 1970s and I’m still using it.The Lee Universal Case Mouth Expander disassembled. The amount the case mouth is flared is determined by how far the die body is screwed into the reloading press, and by how far the adjuster (top item in this photo) is screwed into the die body. The cone (shown in the middle of this photo) is what flares the case mouth. Lee provides two cones; one of small-to-medium calibers (shown here), and one for larger calibers (not shown here).When empty cartridge cases are run into the Lee Universal Case Mouth Expander) it imparts a slight flare to the case mouth. If you do it right, you can barely see the flare (as is the case for the case shown here) and the bullet enters the case with no lead shaving.
The approach to case mouth flaring is to install the Lee Universal Case Mouth Expander in the press and adjust it to impart just enough flare to allow the bullet’s base to enter the case. You don’t need much flare (less is more here; too much will work harden the brass unnecessarily). I’ll jump ahead a bit and mention here that if you can find that happy spot where you flare the case mouth just enough to allow the bullet to enter the case, you won’t have to crimp the case mouth later to eliminate the flare.
A perfectly-flared case mouth, with just enough flare to allow a bullet to start into the case without shaving any lead.
After completing the above full-length resizing and flaring, I reloaded 20 rounds (like you see in the photo at the top of this blog). Then I did what I always do: I labeled the box of reloaded ammo. After that, I fired the reloaded ammo in my Enfield.
I’m not going to cover the rest of the reloading process in Part 1 of this series, but I will in Parts 2 and 3. I’m jumping ahead here by mentioning firing the full-length resized ammo because I wanted brass that had been fired in my rifle. Ammo fired in my rifle would be perfectly formed to my rifle’s chamber, which is minutely different than other rifles’ chambers. That’s because of rifle chamber dimensioning tolerances. The once-fired brass I had was fired in other rifles, so I needed to shoot it in my rifle so the cases conformed to my chamber.
How did the full-length resized .303 ammo shoot? Very well, thank you. Take a look.
This was the first time I had fired this ammo in my rifle, so I needed to dial it in. The first three rounds went low at 50 yards (the nice tight group at about 5:30 on the outer edge of the 6-ring), so I ran the Enfield’s ladder aperture sight up. Oops, too much, which resulted in the group high in the 6-ring. I went down half the distance on the rear aperture, and the next three rounds were just above the bullseye. Down a click or two more, and the rifle was on the money. In case you were wondering, I used 21.0 grains of IMR 4227 and a Winchester large primer (but more on the load in Part 2 of this series).
Having fired my full-length resized ammo in my Enfield, the fired brass could now be neck sized instead of full-length resized. The idea behind neck sizing is that the clearance between the chamber and the brass case is greatly reduced by neck sizing (as opposed to full-length resizing), and theoretically, neck sizing should result in increased accuracy because the case won’t be rattling around in the chamber. There are a couple of another advantages to neck sizing, too. One is that it works the brass less, so it should last longer. A third advantage is that you don’t have to lube and then clean the cases. They can be neck sized without using lubricant. I’ll say more on that in a moment. Not having to lube (and then cleaning the lube from the cases) greatly speeds up the reloading process.
Now that I had brass cases that had been fired in my rifle, I installed and adjusted the Lee collet die in my press. The collet die performs two operations. It has a decapping pin that punches out the spent primer, and it has a set of four collets that compress the case neck around a spindle to bring it back to new brass factory dimensions (that’s the neck sizing operation). You can adjust the die’s depth in the press to adjust the final inside diameter of the case neck, which is a very useful feature to have. Ideally, the resized case neck inside diameter should only be 0.001 to 0.002 inch smaller than the bullet diameter. That amount of case neck inside diameter undersizing will allow the case the grip the bullet firmly so that it won’t push into or pull out of the case. You could make it tighter and still seat the bullet, but doing so would expand the case mouth more with the bullet’s insertion, and that is not desirable. It would distort the case and possibly introduce non-concentricity or angular misalignment between the bullet and the case, and that would hurt accuracy.
The Lee collet die installed in my RCBS Rockchucker press. This die will neck size the case instead of full-length resizing it.A .303 case entering the Lee Collet Die. By adjusting the depth to which the Collet Die is screwed into the press, you can control the neck-sized-only cases’ neck diameters. I adjusted the die to provide a 0.312 neck inside diameter, which gives 0.001-inch interference between the bullet and the case neck.
After completing the die seating depth adjustment, I had the case mouth diameter exactly where I wanted it: 0.312 inches. My cast bullets were at 0.313 inches, so I was good to go.
Not the world’s best photo (mea culpa). Parallax makes the inside diameter in this photo look like 0.313 inches; it was actually reading 0.312 inches. That’s what I wanted.
Next up will be our Part 2 of the Lee .303 British Ultimate 4-Die set review. Stay tuned.
So far, I am very impressed with this set of Lee dies. I’m not surprised, though. As I mentioned earlier, I’ve been using Lee equipment for decades, and it has always pegged the needle on my quality meter. These dies are good at any price. The fact that they cost less than any of the competitors’ products is a huge plus.
I should have known better. Before I tried good buddy Lance’s bolt shims (at TriggerShims.com), I was a bit skeptical even though another of Lance’s products had worked (and is still working) very well for me. I installed Lance’s cylinder shims on my Model 60 Smith and Wesson revolver a few years ago and they solved a lot of ills, including excess cylinder gap, difficulty in opening the cylinder, velocity loss, and double action misfires. The Model 60 is completely reliable now (I’ll include a link to that story at the end of this blog).
The above notwithstanding, though, I was still skeptical about bolt shims. I didn’t understand the concept of rimfire rifle bolt shimming, and that fueled my cynicism. I mean, on a bolt action rifle, what is there to shim?
I called Lance at TriggerShims and spoke with him. Lance said his customers tell him bolt shims work, but I wouldn’t know until I tried them. I was up for it. I had two rimfire rifles I felt should be more accurate: A Remington Custom Shop Model 504 and a CZ 452 Varmint model. The CZ would shoot moderately well off and on (it wasn’t consistent); the Remington was a major disappointment from the day I bought it. It was expensive and for something coming from Remington’s Custom Shop, I expected a lot more. The Custom Shop 504 rifle is beautiful, its walnut stock is fabulous, but its groups were poor.
The Concept
When you get a set of bolt shims from Lance, you get five in varying thicknesses. The shims are color coded so you don’t have to guess at what they are or measure them. The package looks like you see below.
A pack of TriggerShims’ bolt shims. Note the color coding on the shims. Five shims come in a package; the fifth one from the envelope you see above now resides in my Remington Model 504.
How Bolt Shims Work
Most rimfire bolt action rifles’ bolts are different than centerfire bolts. On a centerfire bolt, the bolt locks into the receiver at the front of the bolt. On most rimfire bolt action rifles, the bolt locks into the receiver at the bolt handle, the forward portion of the bolt extends forward to meet the rifle’s breech, and the bolt’s locking lug is integral to the bolt handle. Typically (as is the case on my CZ 452 and Remington 504), the forward portion of the bolt is actually two separate and concentric cylinders, with the forward part of the bolt able to move forward on the inner cylinder (i.e., closer to the chamber) if it is shimmed to do. You can see it in my Model 452 CZ bolt in the photos below.
The CZ 452 bolt.The CZ 452 bolt disassembled. The arrow points to the 0.002-inch TriggerShims shim placed on the bolt shank.
Now consider headspace, the amount of clearance between the cartridge base and the bolt face. If there’s too much headspace, case separations can result when the brass case stretches during firing. Not enough headspace, and you can’t close the bolt. You might wonder: Why not simply have line-to-line contact in the chamber between the cartridge and the chamber, with zero headspace when the bolt is closed? That could work if you always shot with cartridge cases from the same manufacturer, there was no variation in the cartridge cases, there was no variability from rifle to rifle, you always fired your weapon at the same ambient temperature, and you always let it cool completely between shots. These qualifiers are unrealistic, so rifle manufacturers add clearance (i.e., headspace) so that the bolt can always close on any rifle they manufacture when using any kind of ammo meeting the cartridge’s external dimensional specifications at any reasonable temperature.
On a centerfire bolt action rifle, we can use tricks like neck sizing the case (instead of full length resizing the case) so that if that case was previously fired in the same rifle, a reloaded cartridge will have much less clearance between the cartridge case, the bolt face, and the chamber walls. This often works with a centerfire cartridge if, when reloading the cartridge, we only resize the case neck (that’s called neck sizing). Sometimes it’s an easy way to shrink groups (i.e., to make your reloaded ammo more accurate).
We don’t reload .22 ammo, though. So what can we do to eliminate unnecessary headspace? That’s where TriggerShims’ bolt shims enter the picture. The idea is that instead of increasing the length of the brass case to eliminate unnecessary headspace, we push the bolt face forward (toward the rifles’ chamber) to shrink the headspace. In the photo above, you can see where the TriggerShims bolt shim fits between the bolt handle and the bolt’s outer cylinder. When the bolt is assembled with the bolt shim installed, it looks like this:
The arrow points to the bolt shim. It pushes the bolt face forward 0.002 inches.The bolt shim is visible from the bolt underside. Because the bolt locks with a lug on the bolt handle casting, the forward portion of the bolt sits further forward when the bolt shim is installed.
The package from TriggerShims contains five shims of different thicknesses, color coded by thickness. Lance doesn’t know how much shimming your bolt might need, and initially you don’t either. One approach is to go at this question as you would when developing a load for a centerfire rifle; i.e., trying different powders, powder charges, etc., except the sole independent variable is shim thickness. Here, the questions are how much excess headspace is there in your rifle, and how much should you remove to optimize accuracy?
The best approach to answering the above questions is to take the shims to the range, and with your preferred ammo, shoot groups with no shims, the 0.0015-inch shim, the 0.002-inch shim, the 0.003-inch shim, the 0.004-inch shim, and the 0.005-inch shim, and then select the shim that provides the greatest accuracy. Theoretically, if you switched ammo brands, you could repeat the process and find the best shim for the new ammo. It’s very clever.
Me? I’m lazy. I watched a bunch of YouTube videos describing the above and I decided I didn’t want to disassemble and then reassemble my bolt at the range, so I simply installed the 0.002-inch shim on both my CZ 452 Varmint and my Remington Custom Shop Model 504. (The Model 504 bolt shim installation is very similar to how it’s done on the CZ.)
The Results
Does it work? In a word, yes. I wouldn’t have believed it without trying it myself. I’m here to tell you the results are nothing short of amazing.
Remington Model 504
As I mentioned at the start of this blog, my Model 504 was a real disappointment. Yeah, it’s beautiful, with deep, lustrous bluing and gorgeous walnut.
My Custom Shop Model 504. It sure is pretty.
But the Model 504 didn’t group well with any ammo. That was a surprise, partly because of the rifle’s price, partly because of the Remington Custom Shop’s reputation for stellar performance, and partly because the rifle was glass bedded from the Custom Shop. I did my online research (ass backwards, as usual, after I bought the rifle) and I learned that Model 504s are known for lousy accuracy. I tried screwing around with relieving the bedding where it interfered with the barrel attaching screw, I tried different action screw torques, and I tried different ammo. Nothing worked. I thought I had been stuck with a beautiful rifle that was essentially a paperweight. Here are a couple of typical groups from the Model 504 at 50 yards with Eley Target ammo (which is good stuff) before I installed the bolt shim.
A Model 504 typical pre-bolt-shim-installation 5-shot group at 50 yards.Another pre-bolt-installation group at 50 yards from the Model 504. Before installing the bolt shim, I would have considered this a good group from this rifle.
As you can see, they are what we in the engineering world would call lousy. The groups would vary, seldom going as low as that 1.041-inch group you above. Mostly they were awful.
I then installed a 0.002-inch trigger shim on the Model 504 and I tried it again. Wow! Look at this!
A dramatic and immediate improvement with the 0.002-inch bolt shim. This first group with the bolt shim installed was shocking. It got even better (see below).The next group from the Model 504 with the bolt shim. I’m a believer.
When I saw those groups through the 12X Weaver scope on my Model 504, I couldn’t believe what I was seeing. In my mind, I could hear Lance’s calm voice in our recent telephone conversation telling me there’s no guarantees, but folks say they work. Indeed they do!
CZ452 Varmint
I was blown away by the Model 504’s improved accuracy with the addition of the 0.002-inch bolt shim, so I wanted to try it on the CZ.
Another pretty rifle: The CZ 452 Varmint.
The CZ has always shot better than the Model 504. Here’s a typical 10-shot group with the CZ452 before I installed the bolt shim:
I meant to shoot a 5-shot group before installing the bolt shim, but I shot 10 instead. It’s a typical group from the CZ before I installed the bolt shim.
What you see above is what the CZ would do at 50 yards with Eley Target ammo in my hands. Sometimes it would do a little better. Sometimes it would do a little worse. I’m not that great a shot; other people could probably do better. But it’s typical for me. I wanted it to do better.
The TriggerShims 0.002-inch bolt shim went into the CZ and again, my response was: Wow!
One little tiny 0.002-inch bolt shim and voila!Someone once said only accurate rifles are interesting. These two rifles suddenly became much more interesting with the addition of TriggerShims bolt shims.
The Bottom Line
As the saying goes, your mileage may vary. But I’m convinced: Bolt shims work. I might be able to improve my groups even more if I experimented a bit with different shim thicknesses, but I’m more than pleased with what I saw after trying my simple and unscientific “install the 0.002-inch shim and see what happens” approach. This really is a great product. If you want to improve a bolt action .22 rifle’s accuracy, check out TriggerShims. You can thank me later.
Pretty Wood
People sometimes ask how I find guns with exceptional wood. It’s easy. I can’t pass a gun shop without stopping, and I spend a lot of time on gun forums. Every once in a while, I’ll see a rifle with walnut that speaks to me. The Model 504 you see here came from First Stop Guns (they’re in Rapid City, South Dakota) when Susie and I were out there touring that part of the country. I spotted the CZ 452 on a forum post and I sent a message to the owner asking if he would sell it to me. The first answer was no, but a year later the owner contacted me and asked if I was still interested. You know the answer to that one.
Pretty lumber indeed, and now they are both shooters. The CZ 452 is on the left; the Custom Shop Model 504 is on the right. You don’t often see .22 rifles with wood like this. For that matter, you don’t often see centerfire rifles with this kind of wood, either.
In the pocketknife world, Case is an old school, respected, made in America marque that has been around for a long time. I’ve written before about Case knives. Case makes a very reasonably-priced, premier American product. They are a first-class item.
You can imagine my surprise, then, when a Priority Mail item showed up in my mailbox (my real mailbox, not the Outlook one on my screen). I saw that it was from good buddy TK halfway across the country, but I had no idea what it would be. I knew TK from my CSC Motorcycles days, when we both worked at the company. Those were good times and TK was a good guy. We shared common interests in motorcycles, guns, knives, and other things. TK and I rode the Death Valley rally on CSC Mustangs. TK had previously worked at a knife shop, and it’s been said that his name was short for “Tommy Knives.”
When I opened the box from TK, it was Christmas Day here in California. TK had sent a beautiful Case XX two-bladed folder, one that I had never seen or known about previously.
I took a photo and uploaded it to Google to learn what this new-to-me collectible was, and it was indeed a collectible item. A Case XX Whittler, to be specific, with candy stripe scales, made in 2001. Very, very cool.
You might be wondering what Case’s “XX” denotes, as did I. Here’s what Google said:
The “XX” on Case knives…signifies that the blade has undergone a specific heat-treating process, specifically that it was tempered and tested twice for strength and durability.
Historically, the “XX” mark originated as a quality control system during the heat-treating process at W.R. Case & Sons Cutlery Co. When blades were initially hardened in the furnace, an “X” was marked on the pan. A second “X” was added when the blades returned to the oven for tempering, indicating they had been properly and fully treated. Today, the Case “XX” trademark serves as a distinction of the quality and craftsmanship inherent in each knife.
This is a very nice and much appreciated gift, TK. Thanks very much!
A sad note to this story: I wrote this blog a couple of weeks ago, and then I learned a couple of days ago that TK passed away after undergoing heart surgery (TK passed on 18 September). Godspeed, TK. Our thoughts are with you. I enjoyed your friendship and you will be missed.
You know I’m a knife nut. The collecting craze came to me late in life, and I’ve been making up for lost time. You also know that when you buy anything from any retailer, you’re deluged for life with an endless stream of emails pitching more products. Those emails work (at least they do on me), and sometimes they light a match that can’t be extinguished. That’s what happened here. An email floated in from an online knife retailer touting a sale, with a photo of a knife that that caught my attention.
So I clicked and the ad brought me to the online retailer’s website, but the knife wasn’t there. I spent a good half hour looking through hundreds of knives from that manufacturer (Rough Ryder) on the retailer’s site, and I couldn’t find the one in the ad above. I emailed the retailer asking about it, and didn’t get a response. I emailed the retailer again the next day and there still no response. On Day 3, I called the retailer. They apologized for not answering my emails and promised a response that day. They kept their word, but I didn’t like the answer: The knife was out of stock and they had no plans to order more. I also received an email from the man who owned the knife store. He apologized for the ad. That was a nice touch and it kept those guys on my “go to” list. But I still wanted the knife and they didn’t have it. Compounding the felony, the knife importer (Rough Ryder) didn’t have the knife shown above on their website, either.
I didn’t know anything about the knife, including its size or anything other than the fact that it was a folder and the scales were brown burlap Micarta. I Googled those terms and found the knife on Amazon! Woo hoo! I knew I had promised Susie I was done buying knives for a while, but you know how that goes. Add to cart, buy, etc. It arrived the next day.
Man, this is a big knife. Please, no jokes or questions about what I am compensating for. I just like these things and they are so inexpensive, I’m indulging whatever underlying cranial miswiring is fueling this collecting affliction. I sent a quick photo to Bowie-fabricating good buddy Paul, and he asked me how big it is. That led to more iPhone photos and this blog.
I learned on Amazon the knife is the Rough Ryder Deer Slayer, and the Rough Ryder series with brown burlap Micarta scales is their Tater Skin line. The Rough Ryder Deer Slayer isn’t offered any longer, but you can still find them on Amazon and one or two other retailers. The Amazon price is $39.97, and for a knife this size, that’s pretty reasonable.
The Rough Ryder Deer Slayer is nicely packaged. The box is fiberboard (cardboard, basically) and it probably won’t stand up to constant opening and closing, but it is nice. The knife doesn’t come with a sheath (or a holster, like a Buck does), which would have been even nicer. But it’s still pretty cool.
The blade is 4 inches long, and the knife (with the blade out) is almost 10 inches. This is a big knife.
The blade material is 440 stainless (it is razor sharp), and the brown burlap Micarta scales are aesthetically pleasing. The blade is a slip joint, which means it opens and closes like a regular pocketknife. The spring that holds it in either the open or closed position is strong, and I’m ultra-careful closing this one, making sure my fingers are out of the blade’s path as the knife is being closed.
The bottom line: I like the Rough Ryder Deer Slayer. I’ll probably never do anything with the Deer Slayer other than look at it (I’m certainly not going to slay Bambi with it). But I like it. If you want one, you should act fast as the knife is no longer being made. Amazon has a few in stock, and then that’s it.
